Dhaulagiri massif in
Nepal extends 120 km (70 mi) from
the Kaligandaki River west to the Bheri. This massif is bounded on the
north and southwest by tributaries of the
Bheri River and on the
southeast by Myagdi Khola.
Dhaulagiri I is the seventh highest
mountain in the world at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) above sea
level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country
(Nepal). It was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by a
The mountain's name is धौलागिरी (dhaulāgirī) in
Nepali. This comes from
Sanskrit where धवल (dhawala) means
dazzling, white, beautiful and गिरि (giri) means
Dhaulagiri I is also the highest point of the Gandaki
Annapurna I (8,091m/26,545 ft) is 34 km. east of Dhaulagiri
I. The Kali
Gandaki River flows between the two in the Kaligandaki
Gorge, said to be the world's deepest. The town of
Pokhara is south of the Annapurnas, an important regional center and
the gateway for climbers and trekkers visiting both ranges as well as
a tourist destination in its own right.
Dhaulagiri I climbing history
2.1 Partial timeline
3 Other peaks in the
3.1 Climbing history
4 See also
7 External links
Dhaulagiri range looking west from Poon Hill
Looking north from the plains of India, most 8,000-metre peaks are
obscured by nearer mountains, but in clear weather
Dhaulagiri I is
conspicuous from northern Bihar and as far south as Gorakhpur in
Uttar Pradesh. In 1808 A.D. survey computations showed it to be the
highest mountain yet surveyed. This lasted until 1838 when
Kangchenjunga took its place, followed by
Mount Everest in 1858.
Dhaulagiri I's sudden rise from lower terrain is almost unequaled. It
rises 7,000 m (22,970 ft) from the Kali Gandaki River
30 km to the southeast. The south and west faces rise
precipitously over 4,000 m (13,120 ft). The south face of
Gurja Himal in the same massif is also notably immense.
Dhaulagiri I climbing history
Dhaulagiri I in October 2002. The northeast ridge is the left skyline.
Most ascents have followed the northeast ridge route of the first
ascent, but climbs have been made from most directions. As of 2007
there had been 358 successful ascents and 58 fatalities, which is a
summit to fatality rate of 16.2%. Between 1950 and 2006, 2.88% of
2,016 expedition members and staff going above base camp on Dhaulagiri
I died. On all 8,000 metre peaks in
Nepal the death rate was 1.63%,
ranging from 0.65% on
Cho Oyu to 4.04% on
Annapurna I and 3.05% on
Dhaulagiri I reconnoitered by a 1950 French Annapurna
expeditionFrench expedition led by Maurice Herzog]]. They do not see
a feasible route and switch to Annapurna, where they make the first
ascent of an 8000 m peak.
1953–1958 – Five expeditions attempt the north face, or "Pear
1959 – Austrian expedition led by
Fritz Moravec makes the first
attempt on the northeast ridge.
1960 – Swiss-Austrian expedition led by Max Eiselin, successful
ascent by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin
Schelbert, Nyima Dorje Sherpa, Nawang Dorje Sherpa on May 13.
First Himalayan climb supported by a fixed-wing aircraft, which
eventually crashed in Hidden Valley north of the mountain during
takeoff and was abandoned.
1969 – American team led by Boyd Everett attempt southeast ridge;
seven team members, including Everett, are killed in an avalanche.
1970 – second ascent, via the northeast ridge by a Japanese
expedition led by Tokufu Ohta and Shoji Imanari. Tetsuji Kawada and
Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa reach the summit.
1973 – American team led by James Morrissey makes third ascent via
the northeast ridge.
Summit team: John Roskelley, Louis Reichardt, and
Nawang Samden Sherpa.
1975 – Japanese team led by Takashi Amemiya attempts southwest ridge
(also known as the south pillar). Six are killed in an avalanche.
1976 – Italian expedition makes the fourth ascent.
1977 – International team led by
Reinhold Messner attempts the south
1978, spring: Amemiya returns with an expedition that puts five
members on the summit via the southwest ridge—the first ascent not
using the northeast ridge. One team member dies during the ascent.
1978, autumn – Seiko Tanaka of Japan leads successful climb of the
very difficult southeast ridge. Four are killed during the ascent.
French team attempts the southwest buttress (also called the "south
buttress"), only reaches 7,200 m.
1980 – A four-man team consisting of Polish climbers Voytek Kurtyka,
Ludwik Wiczyczynski, Frenchman René Ghilini and Scotsman Alex
MacIntyre climb the east face, topping out at 7,500 m on the northeast
ridge. After a bivouac they descend back to base camp in a storm. One
week later they climb the mountain via the northeast ridge reaching
the summit on May 18.
1981 – Yugoslav team reaches 7,950 m after putting up the first
route on the true south face of the mountain, on the right side,
connecting with the southeast ridge. They climb in alpine style but
suffer four days of open bivouacs and six days without food before
returning. Hironobu Kamuro of Japan reaches the summit alone, via the
1982, May 5 – Three members – Philip Cornelissen, Rudi Van Snick
and Ang Rita Sherpa – of a Belgian-Nepali team reach the summit via
the north-east ridge. A day later, four more climbers – Ang Jangbu
Sherpa, Marnix Lefever, Lut Vivijs and Jan Vanhees – summit also.
Vivijs becomes the first woman to reach the summit.
1982, 13 December – Two members (Akio Koizumi and Wangchu Shelpa) of
Japanese team led by Jun Arima of the Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido
University reach the summit. By the world calendar, winter begins
December 21, so this was not a winter but a very-late-autumn-climb.
However the climb was done under a winter climbing permit, which the
Nepali government issues for climbs beginning on or after December
1984 – Three members of the Czechoslovakian expedition (Jan Simon,
Karel Jakes, Jaromir Stejskal) climb the west face to the summit.
Simon died during the descent.
1985 – Polish expedition lead by Adam Bilczewski set out to conquer
Dhaulagiri for the first time in winter. After seven weeks of dramatic
struggle against hurricane-force winds and temperatures below
Andrzej Czok and
Jerzy Kukuczka successfully made first
winter ascent on 21 January.
1986 – A mostly Polish expedition puts up a second south face route,
on the left side of the face connecting with the southwest ridge
route. They go above 7,500 m but do not reach the summit.
1988 – Soviet mountaineers Yuri Moiseev and Kazbek Valiev, in
cooperation with Zoltan Demján of Czechoslovakia, succeed in climbing
the southwest buttress. This 3,000-metre ascent, with difficult
technical climbing at 6,800–7,300 m, was acknowledged as the
year's best achievement at the UIAA Expedition Commission
Dhaulagiri at sunrise
1993 – Russian-British team puts up the direct north face route.
1998 – French climber
Chantal Mauduit and Sherpa Ang Tshering die
when an avalanche strikes their tent on the Northeast Ridge. On May 1
the Greek climber Nikolaos Papandreou is killed falling in a gorge. On
October 2, the Greek Babis Tsoupras reaches the summit but does not
return. The bodies of the Greek climbers were not found.
1999 – On October 24, British climber
Ginette Harrison dies in an
avalanche on Dhaulagiri. Days later, Slovenian
Tomaž Humar climbs
the south face solo but does not reach the summit. His ascent ended at
7,300 m due to a 300 m band of rotten rock. Humar traverses to the
dangerous southeast ridge, re-enters the face briefly and exits at
8000 m for a descent on the northeast ridge. Dhaulagiri's south face
is still unclimbed, making it one of the greatest remaining challenges
Other peaks in the
28°45′50″N 83°23′15″E / 28.76389°N 83.38750°E /
28.76389; 83.38750 (
28°45′17″N 83°22′37″E / 28.75472°N 83.37694°E /
28.75472; 83.37694 (
28°44′12″N 83°18′52″E / 28.73667°N 83.31444°E /
28.73667; 83.31444 (
28°44′05″N 83°21′41″E / 28.73472°N 83.36139°E /
28.73472; 83.36139 (
Churen Himal (Main)
28°44′06″N 83°12′58″E / 28.73500°N 83.21611°E /
28.73500; 83.21611 (Churen Himal (Main))
Churen Himal (East)
28°44′33″N 83°13′51″E / 28.74250°N 83.23083°E /
28.74250; 83.23083 (Churen Himal (East))
Churen Himal (West)
28°43′55″N 83°12′45″E / 28.73194°N 83.21250°E /
28.73194; 83.21250 (Churen Himal (West))
28°42′30″N 83°16′32″E / 28.70833°N 83.27556°E /
28.70833; 83.27556 (
Putha Hiunchuli (Dh VII)
28°44′50″N 83°08′55″E / 28.74722°N 83.14861°E /
28.74722; 83.14861 (Putha Hiunchuli)
28°40′26″N 83°16′37″E / 28.67389°N 83.27694°E /
28.67389; 83.27694 (Gurja Himal)
False Junction Peak
28°43′00″N 83°16′38″E / 28.71667°N 83.27722°E /
28.71667; 83.27722 (False Junction Peak)
28°43′19″N 83°16′38″E / 28.72194°N 83.27722°E /
28.72194; 83.27722 (Junction Peak)
28°46′33″N 83°11′45″E / 28.77583°N 83.19583°E /
28.77583; 83.19583 (Peak Hawley)
28°49′39″N 82°37′1″E / 28.82750°N 82.61694°E /
28.82750; 82.61694 (Hiunchuli Patan)
† Only peaks above 7,200 m with more than 500 m
(1,640.4 ft) of topographic prominence are ranked.
‡ The status of Churen Himal's three peaks is unclear and sources
differ on their heights. The coordinates, heights and
prominence values above are derived from the Finnmap. The first
ascent data is from Neate, but it is unclear if the first ascent
of Churen Himal East was actually an ascent of the highest of the
three peaks, as Neate lists Churen Himal Central as a 7,320 m subpeak
of Churen Himal East.
Most of the named 7,000 metre peaks are on a ridge extending WNW,
Dhaulagiri I by 5,355m French Pass at 28°46'55"N,
83°31'54"E. In order they are
Dhaulagiri II, III, V, IV, Junction
Peak, Churens East, Central and West,
Putha Hiunchuli and Hiunchuli
Patan. False Junction Peak,
Dhaulagiri VI and Gurja are on a ridge
extending south from Junction Peak. The British Alpine Club's
Himalayan Index lists 37 more peaks over 6,000 m.
6,182m Pota Himal (FinnMap sheet 2883-01 "Chhedhul Gumba") stands
north of the main ridge between Churen and Putha Hiunchuli. Pota has
been informally renamed Peak Hawley after Elizabeth Hawley, a notable
expedition chronicler and Kathmandu-based reporter.
Hiunchuli Patan (5,911m)
Hiunchuli Patan at the western end nearest the
Bheri River is locally
called Sisne or Murkatta Himal. It was an iconic landmark to
insurgents based in Rukum and Rolpa districts during the 1996–2006
Nepal Civil War.
J. O. M. Roberts and Ang Nyima Sherpa climb Putha Hiunchuli,
first major summit ascent in the range.
1955 – Dh.II attempted by
J. O. M. Roberts and others
Pre-monsoon and post-monsoon reconnaissances of Dh.II by
Hangde 6556m in Mukut section attempted.
Churen attempt from north by Japanese Nihon University expedition.
Climbed Hangde (~6600m), Tongu (~6250m), P6265 during
approach/acclimation through Hidden Valley; also Kantokal (~6500m)
north of Putha Hiunchili.
Churen and Dh.VI attempt from south by J. O. M. Roberts, thinking he
was on Dh.IV due to inaccurate maps. Climbed a lower peak (6,529m)
near Gurja, naming it Ghustang after the stream draining the cirque
they climbed in.
Dh.II attempt by Austrian expedition, reaching 7,000m
Japanese expedition to Dh.II delayed two months by heavy snow in
approach passes. Lost two porters to avalanche, then another porter
was injured in a fall and needed evacuation. This left too little food
J. O. M. Roberts leads British R.A.F. expedition to Dh.VI, still
believing it was Dh.IV. Defeated by late monsoon, then early winter
storms creating excessive avalanche risk.
Dh.IV attempt by Austrian Alpine Club. Five Austrians and one Nepali
disappear, may have summited.
Gurja climbed by Japanese expedition.
First authorized ascents of Tukuche 6920m and Tukuche West 6800m.
Japan's Kansai Mountaineering Club unsuccessful on Dh.IV in April but
climbed Dh.VI and False Junction Peak.
Korean expedition claims they summited Churen East on April 29.
Questioned by same year Japanese expedition, see next.
Japanese expedition climbs Churen Central and Churen West on October
First ascent of Dh.II on May 18 by German expedition.
Dh.V attempted by pre- and post-monsoon Japanese expeditions. Both
ended by fatal accidents.
1972 – Dh.IV attempted twice by Japanese expeditions. First attempt
abandoned when a climber fell ill and died at 6200m. Second expedition
climbed via crest from west, found route too long at high elevation
(7,000m+). Climbed Dh.VI and Junction Peak.
first ascent of Dh.III on October 20 by German expedition.
Dh.IV attempted by Austrians who reached 7250m on N face, then by
British who quit after two deaths.
Dh.IV attempt by British R.A.F. expedition abandoned after three
Sherpas killed by falling ice.
In Mukut section: ascents of Parbat Rinchen 6200m, Parbat Talpari
6248m, West Himparkhal 6248m, East Himparkhal 6227m, Tashi Kang III
Dh.IV climbed May 9 by S. Kawazu and E. Yusuda, who died on descent,
bringing death toll on Dh.IV to 14. (Compared with 13 deaths on Mount
Everest before it was successfully climbed in 1953.) Another Japanese
expedition in October puts ten on summit without loss of life.
Dh.V climbed by M. Morioka and Pembu Tsering Sherpa on Japanese
1979 – Japanese traverse Dh.II, III and V along 7,150m+ crest.
Expedition led by a woman.
First ascent of Peak Hawley (AKA Pota Himal). Solo climb by
François Damilano following expedition climb of Putha Hiunchuli.
First ascent of Hiunchuli Patan (known locally as Sisne or
Murkatta Himal). Nepalese expedition led by Man Bahadur Khatri.
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