Bhitagarh
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Bhitargarh ( bn, ভিতরগড়) is an archaeological site that includes the remains of an ancient fort city built in and around the 5th century AD. It is located in
Panchagarh District Panchagarh (; bn, পঞ্চগড়, 'five forts') is a district of the Rangpur division in Northern Bangladesh. Panchagarh is the northernmost district of Bangladesh. It lies between 26º00' and 26º38' north latitudes and between 88º19' ...
in
Rangpur Division Rangpur Division ( bn, রংপুর বিভাগ) is one of the Divisions in Bangladesh. It was formed on 25 January 2010, as Bangladesh's 7th division. Before that, it was under Rajshahi Division. The Rangpur division consists of eight d ...
in the northern part of
Bangladesh Bangladesh (}, ), officially the People's Republic of Bangladesh, is a country in South Asia. It is the eighth-most populous country in the world, with a population exceeding 165 million people in an area of . Bangladesh is among the mo ...
and is large enough that it can be seen from space. The archaeological significance of the site lies in its strategic position as an intersection of the trade routes between
Tibet Tibet (; ''Böd''; ) is a region in East Asia, covering much of the Tibetan Plateau and spanning about . It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people. Also resident on the plateau are some other ethnic groups such as Monpa people, ...
,
Nepal Nepal (; ne, नेपाल ), formerly the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal ( ne, सङ्घीय लोकतान्त्रिक गणतन्त्र नेपाल ), is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is ma ...
,
Bhutan Bhutan (; dz, འབྲུག་ཡུལ་, Druk Yul ), officially the Kingdom of Bhutan,), is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is situated in the Eastern Himalayas, between China in the north and India in the south. A mountainou ...
and the middle and lower
Ganges Valley The Ganges ( ) (in India: Ganga ( ); in Bangladesh: Padma ( )). "The Ganges Basin, known in India as the Ganga and in Bangladesh as the Padma, is an international river to which India, Bangladesh, Nepal and China are the riparian states." is ...
. At its height the city stretched over 5km by 3km and involved rerouting the Talma River.


History

Bhitargarh was a walled city state, the largest in the northern
South Asia South Asia is the southern subregion of Asia, which is defined in both geographical and ethno-cultural terms. The region consists of the countries of Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka.;;;;; ...
, and used to be the seat of King Prithu, popularly known as Maharaja. It used to be an independent city state with a sovereign government till the 13th century. Very little is known about its last sovereign, Prithu Raja, who was believed to have committed suicide because of his religion. There is a legend that Prithu Raja committed suicide along with his army at the Maharaja Dighi to protect their purity from being sullied by an invading force from the impure Kichok Tribe, which had attacked the city. The tribe is believed to be from present-day
Cooch Behar District Cooch Behar district () is a district of Indian state of West Bengal. Formerly part of the Kamarupa kingdom, the area became the heart of the Kamata Kingdom in the 12th century. During the British Raj, the district was known as Cooch Behar s ...
in India, located to the north of the city. In the ancient period, Bhitargarh served as a node of important trade routes, including the Southwest Silk Road, linking the ancient kingdoms of Tibet and
Yunnan Yunnan , () is a landlocked province in the southwest of the People's Republic of China. The province spans approximately and has a population of 48.3 million (as of 2018). The capital of the province is Kunming. The province borders the ...
with
Bengal Bengal ( ; bn, বাংলা/বঙ্গ, translit=Bānglā/Bôngô, ) is a geopolitical, cultural and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the eastern part of the Indian subcontinent at the apex of the Bay of Bengal, predom ...
and eastern India. Its location on the bank of
Karatoya River Karatoya River (also spelt Korotoa River) is a small stream in Rajshahi Division of Bangladesh. Etymology The name of the river is formed of two Sanskrit words ''kar'' (hand) and ''toa'' (water). Course The Karatoya, known as Phuljhur rises i ...
made it easier to access Tibet through the city. Its influence in connecting the ancient trade routes in the region extends from
Magadha Magadha was a region and one of the sixteen sa, script=Latn, Mahajanapadas, label=none, lit=Great Kingdoms of the Second Urbanization (600–200 BCE) in what is now south Bihar (before expansion) at the eastern Ganges Plain. Magadha was rul ...
to as far as Southwest China through the Brahmaputra Valley as well as western and southeastern bank of
Mekong River The Mekong or Mekong River is a trans-boundary river in East Asia and Southeast Asia. It is the world's twelfth longest river and the third longest in Asia. Its estimated length is , and it drains an area of , discharging of water annual ...
. The city could have seen the arrival of Kambojas in the first half of 10th century, who were ruling the rest of Bengal at that time. It became part of the
Bengal Sultanate The Sultanate of Bengal ( Middle Bengali: শাহী বাঙ্গালা ''Shahī Baṅgala'', Classical Persian: ''Saltanat-e-Bangālah'') was an empire based in Bengal for much of the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries. It was the domina ...
in 1498 during the reign of
Alauddin Husain Shah Ala-ud-din Husain Shah ( bn, আলাউদ্দিন হোসেন শাহ (1494–1519)Majumdar, R.C. (ed.) (2006). ''The Delhi Sultanate'', Mumbai: Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan, pp.215-20 was an independent late medieval Sultan of Bengal, who ...
. Bhitargarh later fell into the Khen Kingdom and then into the
Koch Kingdom The Kamata Kingdom (pron: ˈkʌmətɑ) emerged in western Kamarupa probably when Sandhya, a ruler of Kamarupanagara, moved his capital west to Kamatapur sometime after 1257 CE. Since it originated in the old seat of the Kamarupa kingdom, a ...
and continued to serve as a trading hub till the seventeenth century when it was conquered by the
Mughal Bengal The Bengal Subah ( bn, সুবাহ বাংলা; fa, ), also referred to as Mughal Bengal ( bn, মোগল বাংলা), was the largest subdivision of the Mughal Empire (and later an independent state under the Nawabs of Beng ...
under the reign of
Mir Jumla II Mir Jumla II (1591 – 30 March 1663) was a prominent subahdar of Bengal under the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. Early life Mir Jumla was born as Mir Mohammad Sayyid Ardistani in Iran in 1591 to a poor oil merchant of Isfahan named Mirza Hazaru ...
.


Geography

Bhitargarh covers an area of , situated in the Amarkhana Union of
Panchagarh Sadar Upazila Panchagarh Sadar ( bn, পঞ্চগড় সদর) is an upazila of Panchagarh District in the Division of Rangpur, Bangladesh. Geography Panchagarh Sadar is located at , north side of the district. It has 37232 households and total area 347 ...
within the Panchagarh District. The site is covered by sand and gravel which flowed down from the
Himalayan foothills The Himalayas, or Himalaya (; ; ), is a mountain range in Asia, separating the plains of the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau. The range has some of the planet's highest peaks, including the very highest, Mount Everest. Over 100 ...
by glacial waters as well as monsoon rainfalls. Topographically, the land is part of the Old Himalayan Piedmont Plains while the gravel beds belong to the
Upper Pleistocene The Late Pleistocene is an unofficial age in the international geologic timescale in chronostratigraphy, also known as Upper Pleistocene from a stratigraphic perspective. It is intended to be the fourth division of the Pleistocene Epoch within ...
stage, similar to the rest of Panchagarh District. The Upper Pleistocene layer is further overlain by
Holocene The Holocene ( ) is the current geological epoch. It began approximately 11,650 cal years Before Present (), after the Last Glacial Period, which concluded with the Holocene glacial retreat. The Holocene and the preceding Pleistocene togeth ...
deposits, evident in the alluvium sand, silt and clay. The composition of different minerals in the Holocene gravel beds is indistinguishable from that of the Himalayas. The site is in close proximity to two tributaries of Karatoya river, Talma and Kudum to its west and east respectively. There is also the
Teesta River Teesta River is a long river that rises in the Pauhunri Mountain of eastern Himalayas, flows through the Indian states of Sikkim and West Bengal through Rangpur, and enters the Bay of Bengal. It drains an area of . In India, it flows throug ...
, flowing about to the east of the site, as well as the Salmara river which flows right beside the western rampart of the city.


Archaeological excavations

Excavations at Bhitargarh began in 2008 by a team from the
University of Liberal Arts Bangladesh University of Liberal Arts Bangladesh ( bn, লিবারেল আর্টস বিশ্ববিদ্যালয় বাংলাদেশ) (ULAB) is a private liberal arts-based University in Dhanmondi, Dhaka, Bangladesh. Founded in ...
(ULAB) when the site was found in a dilapidated condition. Archaeological investigations assert that the city's territorial boundary included four "concentric quadrangles", separated by ramparts built with earth and bricks. The ramparts were further bolstered by the presence of rectangular
bastion A bastion or bulwark is a structure projecting outward from the curtain wall of a fortification, most commonly angular in shape and positioned at the corners of the fort. The fully developed bastion consists of two faces and two flanks, with fi ...
s and
buttress A buttress is an architectural structure built against or projecting from a wall which serves to support or reinforce the wall. Buttresses are fairly common on more ancient buildings, as a means of providing support to act against the lateral (s ...
es found at regular intervals. Each of the quadrangles were also surrounded by
moat A moat is a deep, broad ditch, either dry or filled with water, that is dug and surrounds a castle, fortification, building or town, historically to provide it with a preliminary line of defence. In some places moats evolved into more extensive ...
s. These ramparts were built to protect the city from both floods and foreign invasions. The fortified structural design of Bhitargarh conforms to the construction recommendations defined at
Arthashastra The ''Arthashastra'' ( sa, अर्थशास्त्रम्, ) is an Ancient Indian Sanskrit treatise on statecraft, political science, economic policy and military strategy. Kautilya, also identified as Vishnugupta and Chanakya, is ...
. Some foundations of religious and other monuments that trace their origin to the
early medieval period The Early Middle Ages (or early medieval period), sometimes controversially referred to as the Dark Ages, is typically regarded by historians as lasting from the late 5th or early 6th century to the 10th century. They marked the start of the Mi ...
have been discovered in the excavations. One of these structures is a residential complex while the rest are temples. One of the temples has a cruciform shape and has a stupa nearby which is bordered by two verandas, all situated in the first quadrangle. In the second quadrangle exist two gateways called ''Yama Duar'' or "Door of death" at the western rampart and ''Kala Duar'' or "Door of eternal time" at southern rampart. Artifacts which were discovered include pottery, clay, iron, and brass-based objects; copper and gold bangles; terracotta and stone beads as well as some stone sculptures which are believed to be from a period between 7th and 12th centuries AD. Some black basalt-based artifacts including pieces of idols of Manasa,
Ramachandra Rama (; ), Ram, Raman or Ramar, also known as Ramachandra (; , ), is a major deity in Hinduism. He is the seventh and one of the most popular ''avatars'' of Vishnu. In Rama-centric traditions of Hinduism, he is considered the Supreme Being ...
and
Hanuman Hanuman (; sa, हनुमान, ), also called Anjaneya (), is a Hindu god and a divine '' vanara'' companion of the god Rama. Hanuman is one of the central characters of the Hindu epic ''Ramayana''. He is an ardent devotee of Rama and on ...
were also discovered by local villagers. Ten ponds (''dighi'') also exist in the area, of which Maharajar Dighi of 53 acres is historically significant. Archaeological studies also discovered evidence of dams in the ancient city, pointing to the advanced irrigation and cultivation system of its inhabitants. These stone-based dams were built to divert the water of Shalmara into the city during dry seasons to be utilized in agricultural and household activities. One of these dams was located at a place called Domoni at the southern rampart of the third quadrangle, used to control the water flow. There were two additional structures made of granite stones, one at Pathar-ghata and another at Kamarbhita which were built to split the course of Shalmara river into three. These structures were also used as embankments to control the level of water flow to store water at upstream. The Shalmara river then joins the Talma river at Birbandh in the northeastern part of the third quadrangle which is believed to be a man-made diversion made by the city's inhabitants.


Threats and preservation efforts

Despite its considerable potential in the historical studies of the region, Bhitargarh remains threatened by continuous encroachment. The Department of Archaeology of
Bangladesh government The Cabinet of Bangladesh ( bn, বাংলাদেশের মন্ত্রিসভা) is the chief executive body of the People's Republic of Bangladesh. The cabinet is the collective decision-making body of the entire government unde ...
does not possess any land in the area and neither has any preservation project. As of 2019, about 40,000 people were residing within the archaeological site and were involved with agricultural activities. The people are mostly migrants from
Comilla Comilla (; bn, কুমিল্লা, Kumillā, ), officially spelled Cumilla, is the fifth largest city of Bangladesh and second largest in Chittagong division. It is the administrative centre of the Comilla District. The name Comilla was ...
, Rangpur,
Tangail Tangail ( bn, টাঙ্গাইল, ), is a major city within the Dhaka Division in central Bangladesh. It sits on the bank of the Louhajang River, north-west of Dhaka, the nation's capital. It is considered to be the main urban area o ...
,
Mymensingh Mymensingh ( bn, ময়মনসিংহ) is the capital of Mymensingh Division, Bangladesh. Located on the bank of Brahmaputra River, about north of the national capital Dhaka, it is a major financial center and educational hub of north- ...
districts as well as recent migrants from
Jalpaiguri District Jalpaiguri district () is a district of the Indian state of West Bengal. The district was established in 1869 during British Raj. The headquarters of the district are in the city of Jalpaiguri, which is also the divisional headquarters of No ...
of
India India, officially the Republic of India (Hindi: ), is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by area, seventh-largest country by area, the List of countries and dependencies by population, second-most populous ...
. Archaeologists believe as the migrants lack close connection with the heritage of the area, they are least interested in its preservation and as such, their continuous habitation and agricultural activities have been causing significant damage to the site. Some community engagement programs have been arranged in the area by archaeologists to build mass-awareness about preserving the heritage of the site and protect it from further damage. A rock museum, the first of its kind in Bangladesh, was established at Panchargarh Government Women's College, displaying different artifacts discovered from Bhitargarh. In 2016, a seminar was arranged at
Bangladesh National Museum The Bangladesh National Museum ( bn, বাংলাদেশ জাতীয় জাদুঘর), is the national museum of Bangladesh. The museum is well organized and displays have been housed chronologically in several departments like dep ...
in
Dhaka Dhaka ( or ; bn, ঢাকা, Ḍhākā, ), List of renamed places in Bangladesh, formerly known as Dacca, is the Capital city, capital and List of cities and towns in Bangladesh, largest city of Bangladesh, as well as the world's largest ...
on the preservation efforts for Bhitargarh archaeological site, attended by then
Finance minister A finance minister is an executive or cabinet position in charge of one or more of government finances, economic policy and financial regulation. A finance minister's portfolio has a large variety of names around the world, such as "treasury", ...
of Bangladesh,
Abul Maal Abdul Muhith Abul Maal Abdul Muhith (25 January 1934 – 30 April 2022) was a Bangladeshi economist, writer, civil servant, secretary, diplomat and politician. He served as the Finance Minister of the government of Bangladesh from January 2009 until January ...
as the chief guest. An allocation of 20 crore BDT was demanded and a permanent custodian office was recommended to establish at the site for its preservation.


See also

*
Mahasthangarh Mahasthangarh ( bn, মহাস্থানগড়, ''Môhasthangôṛ'') is one of the earliest urban archaeological sites so far discovered in Bangladesh. The village Mahasthan in Shibganj upazila of Bogra District contains the remain ...
, another ancient city in the region *
Varendra Varendra ( bn, বরেন্দ্র), also known as Barind ( bn, বারিন্দ, link=no), was a region of North Bengal, now mostly in Bangladesh and a little portion in the Indian state of West Bengal. It formed part of the Pundrav ...
*
Pundravardhana Pundravardhana or Pundra Kingdom ( sa, Puṇḍravardhana), was an ancient kingdom during the Iron Age period in India with a territory that included parts of present-day Rajshahi and Rangpur Divisions of Bangladesh as well as the West Di ...


References


External links

* , short documentary by '' The Daily Star'' {{Ancient-Medieval sites in Bengal Archaeological sites in Bangladesh Former populated places in Bangladesh Panchagarh District Forts in Bangladesh