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Grand Casemates Gates, formerly Waterport Gate, provide an entrance from the northwest to the old, fortified portion of the city of the
British Overseas Territory The British Overseas Territories (BOTs), also known as the United Kingdom Overseas Territories (UKOTs), are fourteen dependent territory, territories with a constitutional and historical link with the United Kingdom. They are the last remna ...
of
Gibraltar ) , anthem = " God Save the King" , song = " Gibraltar Anthem" , image_map = Gibraltar location in Europe.svg , map_alt = Location of Gibraltar in Europe , map_caption = United Kingdom shown in pale green , mapsize = , image_map2 = Gib ...
, at
Grand Casemates Square Grand Casemates Square (colloquially Casemates Square or Casemates) is the larger of the two main squares within the city centre of Gibraltar (the other being John Mackintosh Square). The square takes its name from the British-built Grand Casema ...
.


Background

The
Rock of Gibraltar The Rock of Gibraltar (from the Arabic name Jabel-al-Tariq) is a monolithic limestone promontory located in the British territory of Gibraltar, near the southwestern tip of Europe on the Iberian Peninsula, and near the entrance to the Mediterr ...
, linked to mainland Spain by a low isthmus, extends south into the
Strait of Gibraltar The Strait of Gibraltar ( ar, مضيق جبل طارق, Maḍīq Jabal Ṭāriq; es, Estrecho de Gibraltar, Archaic: Pillars of Hercules), also known as the Straits of Gibraltar, is a narrow strait that connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Medi ...
which connects the
Mediterranean Sea The Mediterranean Sea is a sea connected to the Atlantic Ocean, surrounded by the Mediterranean Basin and almost completely enclosed by land: on the north by Western and Southern Europe and Anatolia, on the south by North Africa, and on the ea ...
with the
Atlantic Ocean The Atlantic Ocean is the second-largest of the world's five oceans, with an area of about . It covers approximately 20% of Earth's surface and about 29% of its water surface area. It is known to separate the " Old World" of Africa, Europe ...
. It is a strategic location that has been occupied in turn by the
Moors The term Moor, derived from the ancient Mauri, is an exonym first used by Christian Europeans to designate the Muslim inhabitants of the Maghreb, the Iberian Peninsula, Sicily and Malta during the Middle Ages. Moors are not a distinct or ...
, Spanish and British. The Rock is inaccessible on its eastern side, which rises in a tall and steep cliff. The town lies on the west side along the shore of the Bay of Gibraltar. For many years a gate provided access from the sea into the northwest of the town through the defensive wall that ran along the shore of the bay. The Moors occupied Gibraltar for centuries until Ferdinand IV of Castile took Gibraltar in the 1309 siege. In 1333 the Moors retook Gibraltar after a lengthy siege. The Spanish regained Gibraltar in August 1462 during its eighth siege. In 1704, during the
War of the Spanish Succession The War of the Spanish Succession was a European great power conflict that took place from 1701 to 1714. The death of childless Charles II of Spain in November 1700 led to a struggle for control of the Spanish Empire between his heirs, Phil ...
, a combined Anglo- Dutch force captured the town of Gibraltar. In 1713 Spain ceded the Rock to the British "in perpetuity". Over the years that followed the British made extensive improvements to the defenses.


Moorish and Spanish structures

The northern approaches to the town were defended by a
Moorish Castle The Moorish Castle is the name given to a medieval fortification in Gibraltar comprising various buildings, gates, and fortified walls, with the dominant features being the Tower of Homage and the Gate House. Part of the castle itself also house ...
on the slopes of The Rock, from which walls ran down to the shore of the Bay of Gibraltar. Around 1310 Ferdinand IV ordered the
Giralda Tower The Giralda ( es, La Giralda ) is the bell tower of Seville Cathedral in Seville, Spain. It was built as the minaret for the Great Mosque of Seville in al-Andalus, Moorish Spain, during the reign of the Almohad dynasty, with a Renaissance-styl ...
to be built on the coast at the west end of the wall to protect the dockyard. The Moors built a line wall, running south from the tower along the bay's western shore, which the Spanish later improved. The Giralda Tower was converted into the North Bastion by the Italian engineer Giovan Giacomo Paleari Fratino in the 1560s. The esplanade just south of the tower is now Grand Casemates Square. It was a walled area where the Moors built their galleys. These were launched through a large arch in the line wall just north of today's Grand Casemates Gates, leading to the Waterport. The Moorish Sea Gate ( es, Puerta del Mar) provided one of the three access gates to ''La Barcina'', the shipbuilding area that is now Grand Casemates Square. The others were the Land Gate ( es, Puerta de Tierra now
Landport Gate The Landport ( es, Puerta de Tierra) is a gate into the territory of Gibraltar. It was originally the only entrance to the fortification from the land and so was heavily fortified and guarded. Description After the territory was first captured ...
) and a southern gate, the Barcina Gate, through a wall that no longer exists. The
Old Mole ''Old Mole'' was a radical New Left oriented underground newspaper published in Cambridge, Massachusetts from September 1968 to September 1970. ''Old Mole'' was continued by a second volume titled ''The Mole'', which published five issues from Nov ...
extending into the bay from a point just south of the tower provided shelter for trading vessels. The mole provided an anchoring line for the galleys. An aqueduct ran from a well to the south along the line wall to the Waterport, where it replenished a reservoir from which water for the galleys was drawn.


British developments

The British built the
Line Wall Curtain The Line Wall Curtain is a defensive curtain wall that forms part of the fortifications of the British Overseas Territory of Gibraltar. Description The Line Wall runs from the North Bastion south along the western coast of the town to Engineer ...
in the 18th century running north–south along the shore of the bay. It incorporates, and is to some extent built upon, older Spanish and Moorish fragments. The Line Wall Curtain runs from the North Bastion south along the western coast of the town to
Engineer Battery Engineer Battery was an artillery battery in the British Overseas Territory of Gibraltar. Description Engineer Battery was at the southern end of the Line Wall Curtain which starts at the North Bastion. The battery was at the end of what was the ...
, just south of the New Mole. It protected the town from bombardment from ships in the bay and from troops landing from the sea. The Moorish Sea Gate in the old line wall lay just north of today's Grand Casemates Gates, and was closed up. The Waterport Gate, providing access to the town through the Line Wall from the shore south of North Bastion, was opened by the British in 1727. The Waterport Gate was the main entrance to Gibraltar in the early days of British occupation, described in 1748 as consisting In 1802
Prince Edward, Duke of Kent and Strathearn Prince Edward, Duke of Kent and Strathearn, (Edward Augustus; 2 November 1767 – 23 January 1820) was the fourth son and fifth child of King George III. His only legitimate child became Queen Victoria. Prince Edward was created Duke of Kent an ...
was appointed Governor of Gibraltar. A disciplinarian, he forced constant drills and training, and was rigid about uniforms and was even concerned with beards and haircuts. When he went as far as to order closure of the taverns in the town, an ill-planned mutiny broke out. The climax occurred at Waterport gate, where a gunner recalled that his captain ordered the artillery to "reverse heguns that were pointing to the Spanish lines, and point them on my comrade soldiers, who but a short time before had been fighting with me in Egypt." The mutineers scattered and were later rounded up and confined to their quarters. The
Grand Casemates The Grand Casemates is a building in Grand Casemates Square, Gibraltar, that was originally a fortified barracks and casemate. It is beside Grand Casemates Gates, which leads through the former town wall. History Construction of the Grand Casema ...
, a bombproof barracks, was started in the 1770s but was not finished until 1817. In 1815 two gateways were opened in the wall at the Waterport, so that carriages could pass through in both directions at once.


Ceremony of the Keys

During the
Great Siege of Gibraltar The Great Siege of Gibraltar was an unsuccessful attempt by Spain and France to capture Gibraltar from the British during the War of the American Revolution. It was the largest battle in the war by number of combatants. The American war had end ...
, from 1779 to 1783, the Port Sergeant was responsible for locking the gates of the fortress at sunset. The Governor, General
George Augustus Eliott George Augustus Eliott, 1st Baron Heathfield, (25 December 1717 – 6 July 1790) was a British Army officer who served in three major wars during the eighteenth century. He rose to distinction during the Seven Years' War when he fought in Ge ...
, wore the keys of the gates at all other times, and the keys took on significance as a symbol of office. The ceremony continued after the siege. An 1881 travel book described the keys being received from the governor twice daily and marched under escort to the gates, which were opened in the morning and closed each evening by a senior officer. The ceremony is mentioned by
Molly Bloom Molly Bloom is a fictional character in the 1922 novel '' Ulysses'' by James Joyce. The wife of main character Leopold Bloom, she roughly corresponds to Penelope in the ''Odyssey''. The major difference between Molly and Penelope is that while P ...
in
James Joyce James Augustine Aloysius Joyce (2 February 1882 – 13 January 1941) was an Irish novelist, poet, and literary critic. He contributed to the modernist avant-garde movement and is regarded as one of the most influential and important writers of ...
's novel ''
Ulysses Ulysses is one form of the Roman name for Odysseus, a hero in ancient Greek literature. Ulysses may also refer to: People * Ulysses (given name), including a list of people with this name Places in the United States * Ulysses, Kansas * Ulysse ...
'', referring to some time before 1888. It is mentioned again in a 1908 description of Gibraltar. After the armistice that ended
World War I World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, the United States, and the Ottoman Empire, with fightin ...
the future United States Admiral Jerauld Wright was a lieutenant on a destroyer that showed the flag in the Mediterranean. In Gibraltar, he was struck by a squad of troops performing the ceremony, "...one had a limp and all were obviously Somme veterans. There were two fifers, one drummer, and one little fellow following with those gigantic keys... they swung past, boots pounding, heads in the air, fife and drum rolling..." Vice-Admiral
Kenneth Dewar Vice-Admiral Kenneth Gilbert Balmain Dewar, CBE (21 September 1879 – 8 September 1964) was an officer of the Royal Navy. After specialising as a gunnery officer, Dewar became a staff officer and a controversial student of naval tactics befor ...
was in Gibraltar in 1928. In his memoir ''The navy from within'' he wrote, "All the Spanish labourers employed on the breakwater had to return to Spanish territory by sunset. After the closing of the gates, a drum-and-fife band awoke the echoes in the narrow streets, accompanying a strong military guard which escorted the keys of the fortress to the Governor's Palace..." The practice was discontinued for a while, then revived as an annual
Ceremony of the Keys Ceremony of the Keys may refer to: *Ceremony of the Keys (Edinburgh) The Ceremony of the Keys is held in Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, at the start of the British monarch's week-long residence there in July. Soon after the monarch's arrival, in t ...
by General Sir Charles Harington when he took office as governor in 1933. The keys were ceremonially presented to his successor Governor Ironside every evening. Today, a version of the ceremony is staged in Casemates Square at noon every Saturday by actors in uniforms similar to those worn by the defenders during the Great Siege. The full military ceremony is held just twice a year. In this ceremony, recalling the Great Siege, the gates of the fortress are symbolically locked. The Governor hands the keys to the Port Sergeant, who is accompanied by an armed escort, and he locks the gates. The keys are then handed back to the governor. Following tradition, drums and fifes accompany the Port Sergeant's party. In 2005 the Ceremony of the Keys was held on 19 May, and was attended by the governor and commander in chief, Sir Francis Richards. The ceremony was again held in May during the term of office of his successor, Lieutenant General Sir
Robert Fulton Robert Fulton (November 14, 1765 – February 24, 1815) was an American engineer and inventor who is widely credited with developing the world's first commercially successful steamboat, the (also known as ''Clermont''). In 1807, that steamboat ...
. In October 2010 the escort was dressed in the uniform of the Black Watch, a highland regiment. The Port Sergeant is ceremonial Custodian of the Keys. In July 2012 a ceremony was staged in which the outgoing Port Sergeant handed the keys over to his successor. On 6 September 2012 Governor Sir Adrian Johns inspected the parade of the Royal Gibraltar Regiment at the ceremony. On this occasion, a group of young drummers performed in Casemates Square for ten minutes before the Parade.


Gallery

File:The Gibraltar Market.jpg, Old postcard of the Public Market outside Grand Casemates Gates as viewed from West Place of Arms. File:History Alive re-enactment.jpg, Re-enactment of the
Ceremony of the Keys Ceremony of the Keys may refer to: *Ceremony of the Keys (Edinburgh) The Ceremony of the Keys is held in Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, at the start of the British monarch's week-long residence there in July. Soon after the monarch's arrival, in t ...
at Grand Casemates Gates. File:Waterport Roundabout.jpg, Waterport roundabout - gates visible in the background.


References

Citations Sources * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Quoted in * * * * * External links * {{Fortifications of Gibraltar City gates in Gibraltar