Thelma Afford
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Thelma May Afford (née Thomas) (1 December 1907 – 21 August 1996) was an Australian
costume designer A costume designer is a person who designs costumes for a film, stage production or television show. The role of the costume designer is to create the characters' outfits or costumes and balance the scenes with texture and colour, etc. The costume ...
, theatre performer, and
fashion journalist Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashion in ...
who worked in
Adelaide Adelaide ( ) is the capital city of South Australia, the state's largest city and the fifth-most populous city in Australia. "Adelaide" may refer to either Greater Adelaide (including the Adelaide Hills) or the Adelaide city centre. The dem ...
,
Melbourne Melbourne ( ; Boonwurrung/Woiwurrung: ''Narrm'' or ''Naarm'') is the capital and most populous city of the Australian state of Victoria, and the second-most populous city in both Australia and Oceania. Its name generally refers to a met ...
, and Sydney.


Biography


Early years

Afford was born Thelma Thomas in
Broken Hill, New South Wales Broken Hill is an inland mining city in the far west of outback New South Wales, Australia. It is near the border with South Australia on the crossing of the Barrier Highway (A32) and the Silver City Highway (B79), in the Barrier Range. It is ...
to William James Thomas and Ethel (née Henderson) in 1907. Her parents moved to Adelaide, where she attended the Presbyterian Girls' College, Glen Osmond. There she studied drawing and design, and became an art teacher at the
South Australian School of Arts and Crafts The South Australian School of Design was an art school in the earliest days of the City of Adelaide, the progenitor of the South Australian School of Arts, a department of the University of South Australia. Origin In 1856 Charles Hill started ...
. She acted between 1932 and 1934, then moved to
Melbourne Melbourne ( ; Boonwurrung/Woiwurrung: ''Narrm'' or ''Naarm'') is the capital and most populous city of the Australian state of Victoria, and the second-most populous city in both Australia and Oceania. Its name generally refers to a met ...
in 1934 to further study at Technical College.


Marriage to Max Afford

Max Afford Malcolm R. Afford (8 April 1906 – 2 November 1954) known as Max Afford, was an Australian playwright and novelist. Biography Early years Afford was born in Adelaide, South Australia, the youngest son of Robert D. Afford of "Glenleigh", Sta ...
and Thelma met when she was designing the costumes for his play ''Colonel Light: The Founder'' at the Tivoli, Adelaide. The play won awards in competitions run by the
Australian Broadcasting Commission The Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC) is the national broadcaster of Australia. It is principally funded by direct grants from the Australian Government and is administered by a government-appointed board. The ABC is a publicly-owned ...
which in 1937 employed him in Sydney as a writer, and the following year Thelma was also called to Sydney, to design the costumes for that city's sesqui-centenary pageant. They married on 16 April 1938 at St Michael's church,
Vaucluse, Sydney Vaucluse is an Eastern Suburbs (Sydney), eastern suburb of Sydney, in the state of New South Wales, Australia. It is located north-east of the Sydney central business district, in the Local government in Australia, local government areas of Wav ...
, and lived most of their married life in a flat near Balmoral beach. They had no children. Leslie Rees, a close friend of the Affords, described their marriage: "Between husband and wife, there was the deepest and most tender affinity in all matters and on all levels."


Professional life


Actress

In the early 1930s, Thelma Thomas was an actress in Adelaide, collaborating notably with the Ab-Intra Studio Theatre for ''Woman Song'', ''The Robe of Yama'', ''The Stained-Glass Window'', and ''The Aspen Tree'' in 1932. In 1935, Thelma joined the Ab-Intra for their last show ''Archway Motif'' before the theatre closed indefinitely.


Designer

Thelma started designing theatre costumes in the early 1930s at the Ab-Intra Studio Theatre founded during the Depression by Alan Harkness and Kester Baruch, Afford, Thelma (1988). "Ab-Intra Studio Theatre in Adelaide 1931–35". Australasian Drama Studies. Department of English, La Trobe University (12/13): 167–180. and also at the
Adelaide Repertory Theatre 'The Adelaide Repertory Theatre, often called Adelaide Rep or The Rep, is an amateur theatre company in Adelaide, South Australia, founded in 1908. It usually presents its productions at The Arts Theatre. History Adelaide Rep is the longest sur ...
, where she worked with Agnes Dobson and
Robert Helpmann Sir Robert Murray Helpmann CBE ( Helpman, 9 April 1909 – 28 September 1986) was an Australian ballet dancer, actor, director, and choreographer. After early work in Australia he moved to Britain in 1932, where he joined the Vic-Wells Ballet ( ...
. In 1934, she was commissioned to design for the Melbourne centenary pageant. Only one of her costumes for the Pageant of Nations is known to survive and is the embodiment of the State of
Victoria Victoria most commonly refers to: * Victoria (Australia), a state of the Commonwealth of Australia * Victoria, British Columbia, provincial capital of British Columbia, Canada * Victoria (mythology), Roman goddess of Victory * Victoria, Seychelle ...
, worn by Jessie Deakin Brookes, (a social worker and grand daughter of
Alfred Deakin Alfred Deakin (3 August 1856 – 7 October 1919) was an Australian politician who served as the second Prime Minister of Australia. He was a leader of the movement for Federation, which occurred in 1901. During his three terms as prime ministe ...
, second Prime Minister of Australia), who donated it to the State Library Victoria in 1998. It featured three iconic Melbourne buildings,
Government House Government House is the name of many of the official residences of governors-general, governors and lieutenant-governors in the Commonwealth and the remaining colonies of the British Empire. The name is also used in some other countries. Gover ...
, the
town hall In local government, a city hall, town hall, civic centre (in the UK or Australia), guildhall, or a municipal building (in the Philippines), is the chief administrative building of a city, town, or other municipality. It usually houses ...
and
Flinders Street railway station Flinders Street railway station is a train station located on the corner of Flinders Street, Melbourne, Flinders and Swanston Street, Swanston streets in the Melbourne city centre, central business district (CBD) of Melbourne, Victoria (Austral ...
, the
Murray Darling Murray Darling is a wine region and Australian Geographical Indication which spans the Murray River and its confluence with the Darling River in northwestern Victoria and southwestern New South Wales. It was registered as a protected name on 16 ...
river and irrigation system and a headpiece modelled on the
Yallourn power station The Yallourn Power Station, now owned by EnergyAustralia a wholly owned subsidiary of the Hong-Kong-based CLP Group, is located in the Latrobe Valley of Victoria, Australia, beside the Latrobe River, with the company town of Yallourn located to ...
transmission tower. It was the inspiration of the exhibition ''Velvet, Iron, Ashes'' displayed at the
State Library A national library is established by the government of a nation to serve as the pre-eminent repository of information for that country. Unlike public libraries, they rarely allow citizens to borrow books. Often, they include numerous rare, valuab ...
in Victoria in 2019–2020. Thomas then worked, prior to her marriage, on South Australia's centenary celebrations in 1936. She enjoyed costume designing on a large scale, and added that "period costumes give a designer more scope than modern clothes". She was resident designer at the Minerva Theatre from 1940 to 1950 and designed most of the costumes for husband Max's plays, including ''Awake My Love'' (a rewrite of his earlier ''Colonel Light'' play), and those of other playwrights including Sam Speewack, for the Independent Theatre through the 1950s. She also worked for the
Garrick Theatre The Garrick Theatre is a West End theatre, located in Charing Cross Road, in the City of Westminster, named after the stage actor David Garrick. It opened in 1889 with ''The Profligate'', a play by Arthur Wing Pinero, and another Pinero play ...
and the Tivoli Theatre in Melbourne. Also in 1957 she designed the costumes for ''Cinderella, the pantomime'' at the
Elizabethan Theatre English Renaissance theatre, also known as Renaissance English theatre and Elizabethan theatre, refers to the theatre of England between 1558 and 1642. This is the style of the plays of William Shakespeare, Christopher Marlowe and Ben Jonson. ...
, praised for "its handsome costumes" and described as "''Cinderella'' done in French 18th century style".


Cinema

For cinema, she was costume designer at Cinesound for
Cecil Kellaway Cecil Lauriston Kellaway (22 August 1890 – 28 February 1973) was a South African character actor. He was nominated for the Academy Award for Best Supporting Actor twice, for '' The Luck of the Irish'' (1948) and '' Guess Who's Coming to Dinner ...
's 1939 film ''
Mr. Chedworth Steps Out ''Mr. Chedworth Steps Out'' is a 1939 Australian comedy film directed by Ken G. Hall starring Cecil Kellaway. Kellaway returned to Australia from Hollywood to make the film, which features an early screen appearance by Peter Finch. It was the fi ...
'', and in 1947, she designed period costumes for Charles Chauvel's '' Sons of Matthew,'' and ''Cobb and Co.'' She also collaborated with
Cinesound Productions Cinesound Productions Pty Ltd was an Australian feature film production company, established in June 1931, Cinesound developed out of a group of companies centred on Greater Union Theatres, that covered all facets of the film process, from produ ...
.


Television

Thelma worked with the Australian Broadcasting Commissionon costume design for live drama on television, including the ABC's first, J.M.Barrie's '' The Twelve-Pound Look'' in 1956,
Oscar Wilde Oscar Fingal O'Flahertie Wills Wilde (16 October 185430 November 1900) was an Irish poet and playwright. After writing in different forms throughout the 1880s, he became one of the most popular playwrights in London in the early 1890s. He is ...
's '' Importance of Being Earnest'', broadcast 18 December 1957 on
ABN-2 ABN is the Australian Broadcasting Corporation's television station in Sydney. The station began broadcasting on 5 November 1956. Its original studios were located in Gore Hill and were in use up until March 2004, when they were co-located w ...
, ''
Ending It ''Ending It'' was a 1939 BBC TV one-off play, written by Val Gielgud, and starring John Robinson, Joan Marion, and Dino Galvani. It was 30 minutes in duration. It was broadcast live on 25 August 1939. 1957 Australian Adaptation The most unusual ...
, Pride and Prejudice,
Three-cornered Moon ''Three Cornered Moon'' is a 1933 American pre-Code comedy film directed by Elliott Nugent, written by Ray Harris and S.K. Lauren, and starring Claudette Colbert, Richard Arlen, Mary Boland, and Wallace Ford. Based on a 1933 play by Gertrude Ton ...
,'' and '' A Phoenix Too Frequent''. She remarked that costumes for TV were different than for the stage since the focus was on the upper-body of the actors instead of the
silhouette A silhouette ( , ) is the image of a person, animal, object or scene represented as a solid shape of a single colour, usually black, with its edges matching the outline of the subject. The interior of a silhouette is featureless, and the silhou ...
, and the filming was in
black-and-white Black-and-white (B&W or B/W) images combine black and white in a continuous spectrum, producing a range of shades of grey. Media The history of various visual media began with black and white, and as technology improved, altered to color. ...
, more precisely 9 shades of grey.


Journalist

Afford authored articles in drama journals, newspapers, and a posthumously published a book titled ''Dreamers and Visionaries'' on the little theatres in Adelaide in the first half of the 20th century.


Teacher

Thelma Afford worked as an
art teacher Art is a diverse range of human activity, and resulting product, that involves creative or imaginative talent expressive of technical proficiency, beauty, emotional power, or conceptual ideas. There is no generally agreed definition of wha ...
in the late 1920s and early 1930s, then again towards the end of her career from 1955 to 1978 at
Queenwood School for Girls Queenwood School for Girls, often abbreviated as Queenwood, is a multi-campus independent non-denominational Christian co-educational primary and secondary day school for girls, located in the suburb of Mosman, on the Lower North Shore of Sydne ...
in
Mosman Mosman is a suburb on the Lower North Shore region of Sydney, in the state of New South Wales, Australia. Mosman is located 8 kilometres north-east of the Sydney central business district and is the administrative centre for the local governm ...
where she was Senior Art mistress.


Death and legacy

After Max's sudden death at 48 in 1954, Thelma remained in Sydney where she lived until her death in 1996. At her death, Thelma left instructions to establish a fund with The Trust company for the attribution of an annual $10,000 "Max Afford Playwrights' Award" and a $7,500
Thelma Afford Theatre, Stage, TV or Film Costume Design Award
. Her designs are collected in the
State Library of South Australia The State Library of South Australia, or SLSA, formerly known as the Public Library of South Australia, located on North Terrace, Adelaide, is the official library of the Australian state of South Australia. It is the largest public research l ...
, the
State Library of New South Wales The State Library of New South Wales, part of which is known as the Mitchell Library, is a large heritage-listed special collections, reference and research library open to the public and is one of the oldest libraries in Australia. Establish ...
and the
Fryer Library The University of Queensland Library (UQ Library, founded in 1910) provides library access to students of the University of Queensland in Brisbane. It developed from a small provincial university library into a major research library.East, John ...
at the
University of Queensland , mottoeng = By means of knowledge and hard work , established = , endowment = A$224.3 million , budget = A$2.1 billion , type = Public research university , chancellor = Peter Varghese , vice_chancellor = Deborah Terry , city = B ...
.


Professional associates

*
George Bell George Bell may refer to: Law and politics * George Joseph Bell (1770–1843), Scottish jurist and legal author * George Alexander Bell (1856–1927), Canadian pioneer and Saskatchewan politician * George Bell (Canadian politician) (1869–1940) ...
* Kester Berwick * Charles Chauvel * Elsa Chauvel * Agnes Dobson *
Doris Fitton Dame Doris Alice Lucy Walkden Fitton, (3 November 18972 April 1985) was an Australian actress of stage and film and theatrical director and producer who founded and for 35 years headed The Independent Theatre Ltd. in Sydney, New South Wales. ...
* Pierre Fornari *
Ken G. Hall Kenneth George Hall, AO, OBE (22 February 1901 – 8 February 1994), better known as Ken G. Hall, was an Australian film producer and director, considered one of the most important figures in the history of the Australian film industry. ...
* Alan Harkness *
Robert Helpmann Sir Robert Murray Helpmann CBE ( Helpman, 9 April 1909 – 28 September 1986) was an Australian ballet dancer, actor, director, and choreographer. After early work in Australia he moved to Britain in 1932, where he joined the Vic-Wells Ballet ( ...
* J.C. Williamson


Publications

* *


Bibliography

* Thelma Afford's designs for stage and television. ''Papers of Max and Thelma Afford, 1912–1987'', UQFL184, Album 3, Fryer Library,
University of Queensland , mottoeng = By means of knowledge and hard work , established = , endowment = A$224.3 million , budget = A$2.1 billion , type = Public research university , chancellor = Peter Varghese , vice_chancellor = Deborah Terry , city = B ...
Library. * Ritchie, J. "Max Afford", ''Australian Dictionary of Biography'', vol.13.
Melbourne Melbourne ( ; Boonwurrung/Woiwurrung: ''Narrm'' or ''Naarm'') is the capital and most populous city of the Australian state of Victoria, and the second-most populous city in both Australia and Oceania. Its name generally refers to a met ...
, 2002. * "Awake my Love by Max Afford", ''Drama and the School'' issue 21. Sydney, NSW: C. Felton, 1960.


Archives

*
State Library of New South Wales The State Library of New South Wales, part of which is known as the Mitchell Library, is a large heritage-listed special collections, reference and research library open to the public and is one of the oldest libraries in Australia. Establish ...
. Portfolio of 216 original watercolour sketches by Thelma Afford, 11 with fabric samples. Includes 32 black and white and sepia photographs of finished designs
PX*D 330/ff.1-253
*
State Library of New South Wales The State Library of New South Wales, part of which is known as the Mitchell Library, is a large heritage-listed special collections, reference and research library open to the public and is one of the oldest libraries in Australia. Establish ...
. Thelma Afford - papers, 1931–1995
MLMSS 7769
*
State Library of New South Wales The State Library of New South Wales, part of which is known as the Mitchell Library, is a large heritage-listed special collections, reference and research library open to the public and is one of the oldest libraries in Australia. Establish ...
. Thelma Afford further papers, 1937–1972
MLMSS 8408


References


External links


The Dictionary of Australian Artists OnlineThelma Afford AwardCurrency PressAustLit

Thelma Afford interviewed by Hazel de Berg in the Hazel de Berg collection
– audio recording {{DEFAULTSORT:Afford, Thelma 1907 births 1996 deaths Australian costume designers Australian stage actresses Australian fashion journalists Journalists from New South Wales People from Broken Hill, New South Wales Australian women journalists 20th-century Australian women writers 20th-century Australian journalists 20th-century Australian actresses