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''The Widows of Culloden'' (Autumn/Winter 2006; ) is the twenty-eighth collection by British designer
Alexander McQueen Lee Alexander McQueen CBE (17 March 1969 – 11 February 2010) was a British fashion designer and couturier. He founded his own Alexander McQueen label in 1992, and was chief designer at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001. His achievements in fashio ...
for his eponymous
fashion house Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends, and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer create ...
. ''Widows'' was inspired by McQueen's Scottish ancestry, and was named for the women who were widowed following the Battle of Culloden, an engagement which marked the defeat of the
Jacobite rising of 1745 The Jacobite rising of 1745, also known as the Forty-five Rebellion or simply the '45 ( gd, Bliadhna Theàrlaich, , ), was an attempt by Charles Edward Stuart to regain the British throne for his father, James Francis Edward Stuart. It took ...
, a failed attempt by Charles Edward Stuart to regain the
British throne The monarchy of the United Kingdom, commonly referred to as the British monarchy, is the constitutional form of government by which a hereditary sovereign reigns as the head of state of the United Kingdom, the Crown Dependencies (the Baili ...
. The collection focused on a Scottish theme, with extensive use of the
McQueen family The McQueen family is a fictional family in the Channel 4 soap opera ''Hollyoaks''. The family first appeared in 2006 and the family have been involved in a number of the show's most high-profile storylines, most notably John Paul McQueen's ( Ja ...
tartan and traditional gamekeeper's
tweeds Tweed is a rough, woollen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. It is usually woven with a plain weave, twill or herringbone structure. Colour effects in the yarn may be obtained ...
, as well as other elements taken from
Highland dress Highland dress is the traditional, regional dress of the Highlands and Isles of Scotland. It is often characterised by tartan (''plaid'' in North America). Specific designs of shirt, jacket, bodice and headwear may also be worn along with cla ...
. Fur and feathers were used for trim and accessories, further referencing the Scottish tradition of gamekeeping. Historical elements harkened back to the fashion of the late Victorian era and the 1950's, as well as
military uniform A military uniform is a standardised dress worn by members of the armed forces and paramilitaries of various nations. Military dress and styles have gone through significant changes over the centuries, from colourful and elaborate, ornamented ...
s of
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposing ...
. The collection's runway show was staged on 3 March 2006 at the
Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy Palais () may refer to: * Dance hall, popularly a ''palais de danse'', in the 1950s and 1960s in the UK * ''Palais'', French for palace ** Grand Palais, the Grand Palais des Champs-Elysées ** Petit Palais, an art museum in Paris * Palais River ...
in Paris, and was dedicated to
Isabella Blow Isabella "Issie" Blow (nee Delves Broughton; 19 November 1958 – 7 May 2007) was an English magazine editor. As the muse of hat designer Philip Treacy, she is credited with discovering the models Stella Tennant and Sophie Dahl as well as pr ...
, McQueen's friend and muse. The show marked a return to theatricality for McQueen, whose shows in the preceding two seasons had been comparatively conventional. ''Widows'' was presented on a square stage of rough wood with a glass pyramid at its centre. Fifty-one ensembles were presented across roughly three phases, ending with a
Pepper's ghost Pepper's ghost is an illusion technique used in the theatre, cinema, amusement parks, museums, television, and concerts. It is named after the English scientist John Henry Pepper (1821–1900) who began popularising the effect with a theatr ...
illusion of English model Kate Moss projected within the glass pyramid. Response to ''The Widows of Culloden'' was positive. Critics were particularly impressed with McQueen's tailoring – the designer's signature – and the collection's balance of artistry with commercial practicality. The show is regarded in hindsight as one of McQueen's best, with the illusion of Kate Moss regarded as the highlight of the show and one of McQueen's most dramatic runway moments. Ensembles from ''Widows'' are held by various museums and have appeared in exhibitions, including the McQueen retrospective '' Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty''. ''The Widows of Culloden'' collection and show, especially the Kate Moss illusion, have been extensively analysed through various critical lenses. Academics have explored the show as an exploration of
gothic literature Gothic fiction, sometimes called Gothic horror in the 20th century, is a loose literary aesthetic of fear and haunting. The name is a reference to Gothic architecture of the European Middle Ages, which was characteristic of the settings of ea ...
in fashion, highlighting its
historicism Historicism is an approach to explaining the existence of phenomena, especially social and cultural practices (including ideas and beliefs), by studying their history, that is, by studying the process by which they came about. The term is widely ...
and air of melancholy and drawing comparisons with
classic literature A classic is a book accepted as being exemplary or particularly noteworthy. What makes a book "classic" is a concern that has occurred to various authors ranging from Italo Calvino to Mark Twain and the related questions of "Why Read the Cla ...
. It is frequently discussed with McQueen's first Scottish-themed collection, '' Highland Rape'' (Autumn/Winter 1995), which had an extremely controversial runway show.


Background

British designer
Alexander McQueen Lee Alexander McQueen CBE (17 March 1969 – 11 February 2010) was a British fashion designer and couturier. He founded his own Alexander McQueen label in 1992, and was chief designer at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001. His achievements in fashio ...
was known in the fashion industry for dramatic, theatrical
fashion shows A fashion show (French ''défilé de mode'') is an event put on by a fashion designer to showcase their upcoming line of clothing and/or accessories during a fashion week. Fashion shows debut every season, particularly the Spring/Summer and Fal ...
featuring imaginative and occasionally controversial designs. Although he was born in England, McQueen's father was of Scottish descent. His mother was fascinated with this family history, an interest she passed on to McQueen early in his childhood. McQueen maintained an interest in contentious periods of
Scottish history The recorded begins with the arrival of the Roman Empire in the 1st century, when the province of Britannia reached as far north as the Antonine Wall. North of this was Caledonia, inhabited by the ''Picti'', whose uprisings forced Rome ...
, especially events such as the
Jacobite rising , war = , image = Prince James Francis Edward Stuart by Louis Gabriel Blanchet.jpg , image_size = 150px , caption = James Francis Edward Stuart, Jacobite claimant between 1701 and 1766 , active ...
s and the Highland Clearances. He resented the romanticisation of Scotland, particularly by other British fashion designers such as
Vivienne Westwood Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood (née Swire; born 8 April 1941) is an English fashion designer and businesswoman, largely responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the mainstream. Westwood came to public notice when she m ...
, and drew inspiration from Scottish resistance to English domination. McQueen's first Scotland-inspired collection was the controversial '' Highland Rape'' (Autumn/Winter 1995), which marked his first use of the red, black, and yellow McQueen clan tartan. The collection became known for its runway show, which featured models walking unsteadily down the runway in torn and bloody clothing. Intended as a reference to what McQueen described as "England’s rape of Scotland," the collection was described by many British fashion critics as
misogynistic Misogyny () is hatred of, contempt for, or prejudice against women. It is a form of sexism that is used to keep women at a lower social status than men, thus maintaining the societal roles of patriarchy. Misogyny has been widely practiced f ...
, a characterization McQueen consistently objected to. American journalists tended to be more positive about the collection: Amy Spindler of ''The'' ''New York Times'' called it "a collection packed with restless, rousing ideas, by far the best of the London season." In retrospective, ''Highland Rape'' is considered to be the launching point of McQueen's fame, and has been credited with leading to his appointment as head designer at French luxury fashion house
Givenchy Givenchy (, ) is a French luxury fashion and perfume house. It hosts the brand of haute couture and ready-to-wear clothing, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics of Parfums Givenchy. The house of Givenchy was founded in 1952 by designer Hubert de ...
.


Concept and creative process

''The'' ''Widows of Culloden'' (Autumn/Winter 2006) is the twenty-eighth womenswear collection designed by McQueen for his eponymous
fashion house Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends, and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer create ...
. The collection was inspired by McQueen's Scottish ancestry, his love for the natural world, and Shakespeare's Scottish play '' Macbeth''. It was named for the women who were widowed following the Battle of Culloden, an engagement which marked the defeat of the
Jacobite rising of 1745 The Jacobite rising of 1745, also known as the Forty-five Rebellion or simply the '45 ( gd, Bliadhna Theàrlaich, , ), was an attempt by Charles Edward Stuart to regain the British throne for his father, James Francis Edward Stuart. It took ...
, a failed attempt by Charles Edward Stuart to regain the
British throne The monarchy of the United Kingdom, commonly referred to as the British monarchy, is the constitutional form of government by which a hereditary sovereign reigns as the head of state of the United Kingdom, the Crown Dependencies (the Baili ...
. McQueen spoke of wanting to "show a more poetic side" with the collection. ''Widows'' features the return of many of McQueen's signature elements: sharp
tailoring A tailor is a person who makes or alters clothing, particularly in men's clothing. The Oxford English Dictionary dates the term to the thirteenth century. History Although clothing construction goes back to prehistory, there is evidence of ...
, altered silhouettes, and a dark yet romantic atmosphere. Multiple authors described it as something of a "
greatest hits A greatest hits album or best-of album is a type of compilation album that collects popular and commercially successful songs by a particular artist or band. While greatest hits albums are typically supported by the artist, they can also be crea ...
" collection for the designer. McQueen's typical tailored suits and dresses were accompanied by softer dresses and flowing
evening gowns An evening gown, evening dress or gown is a long dress usually worn at formal occasions. The drop ranges from ballerina (mid-calf to just above the ankles), tea (above the ankles), to full-length. Such gowns are typically worn with evening ...
. The light, ethereal aspect of many of the dresses is credited to McQueen's time at Givenchy, where he learned ''le flou'', the dressmaking side of '' haute couture''. Many elements from the collection were taken directly from or referred to traditional
Highland dress Highland dress is the traditional, regional dress of the Highlands and Isles of Scotland. It is often characterised by tartan (''plaid'' in North America). Specific designs of shirt, jacket, bodice and headwear may also be worn along with cla ...
, both upper- and lower-class. The primary fabrics used were
tartan Tartan ( gd, breacan ) is a patterned cloth consisting of criss-crossed, horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours. Tartans originated in woven wool, but now they are made in other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Sc ...
and
tweed Tweed is a rough, woollen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. It is usually woven with a plain weave, twill or herringbone structure. Colour effects in the yarn may be obtained ...
; Aran knit, brocade, black
velvet Weave details visible on a purple-colored velvet fabric Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel. By extension, the word ''velvety'' means ...
,
organza Organza is a thin, plain weave, sheer fabric traditionally made from silk. Many modern organzas are woven with synthetic filament fibers such as polyester or nylon. Silk organza is woven by a number of mills along the Yangtze River and in the pr ...
, and chiffon also featured in several ensembles. As in ''Highland Rape'', the tartan used in the collection is the red, yellow, and black McQueen family tartan, woven in a historic mill in
Lochcarron Lochcarron ( gd, Loch Carrann) is a village, community and civil parish in the Wester Ross area of Highland, Scotland. It has a population of 923. Locality The name Lochcarron is also applied to the collection of small settlements strung out al ...
, Scotland. Several of the tartan garments included aspects of the traditional '' féileadh-mór'', a large piece of fabric which is wrapped around the body and held by a belt, and the
kilt A kilt ( gd, fèileadh ; Irish: ''féileadh'') is a garment resembling a wrap-around knee-length skirt, made of twill woven worsted wool with heavy pleats at the sides and back and traditionally a tartan pattern. Originating in the Scottish ...
, a knee-length wraparound skirt. Other uses of tartan were non-traditional, such as tailored jackets and suits. The extensive use of tweed references the garb of traditional Scottish gamekeepers. Tweed production is indigenous to Scotland, especially in the Scottish Isles. In the 1840s, the fabric acquired an association with high-class leisure, after the British nobility began taking hunting trips to Scottish estates and adopting the tweed worn by locals and estate staff. The tweed also plays on McQueen's Autumn/Winter 2005 show, which made similarly heavy use of the fabric. Hunting and gamekeeping is also referenced in the use of animal fur and items made from feathers and wings of
game birds Galliformes is an order of heavy-bodied ground-feeding birds that includes turkeys, chickens, quail, and other landfowl. Gallinaceous birds, as they are called, are important in their ecosystems as seed dispersers and predators, and are often ...
. Usage of animal parts, both natural and imitation, was typical for McQueen; he was especially partial to the symbolism associated with birds. The show's headpieces made particular use of avian elements. They were created by Irish-born milliner
Philip Treacy Philip Anthony Treacy (born 26 May 1967) is an Irish haute couture milliner, or hat designer, who has been mostly based in London for his career, and who was described by ''Vogue'' magazine as "perhaps the greatest living milliner". In 2000, T ...
, a frequent collaborator of McQueen's; they had been introduced by McQueen's friend and muse
Isabella Blow Isabella "Issie" Blow (nee Delves Broughton; 19 November 1958 – 7 May 2007) was an English magazine editor. As the muse of hat designer Philip Treacy, she is credited with discovering the models Stella Tennant and Sophie Dahl as well as pr ...
. Their complexity and emphasis on birds has been interpreted as a gesture toward Blow, who loved elaborate headwear and the sport of falconry. According to author Katharine Gleason, the use of feathers and wings imparted a "mythic quality" to the models. Many ensembles incorporated historical elements and allusions to other designers. Fashion historian Judith Watt noted references to the Arts and Crafts movement, as well as the S-bend silhouette common in the
1870s The 1870s (pronounced "eighteen-seventies") was a decade of the Gregorian calendar that began on January 1, 1870, and ended on December 31, 1879. The trends of the previous decade continued into this one, as new empires, imperialism and milit ...
and
1880s The 1880s (pronounced "eighteen-eighties") was a decade of the Gregorian calendar that began on January 1, 1880, and ended on December 31, 1889. The period was characterized in general by economic growth and prosperity in many parts of the world ...
. The use of wasp waists, bustles, close tailoring, and belted jackets can be seen as a reference to Victorian and 1950's fashion. Some designs alluded to the
military uniform A military uniform is a standardised dress worn by members of the armed forces and paramilitaries of various nations. Military dress and styles have gone through significant changes over the centuries, from colourful and elaborate, ornamented ...
s of
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposing ...
, and model
Spitfire The Supermarine Spitfire is a British single-seat fighter aircraft used by the Royal Air Force and other Allied countries before, during, and after World War II. Many variants of the Spitfire were built, from the Mk 1 to the Rolls-Royce Grif ...
planes were repurposed as hair accessories. The winged headpieces referenced a series of winged headdresses made by Italian couturier Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s. Several of the evening gowns took inspiration from a dress designed in 1987 by fellow British designer
John Galliano John Charles Galliano (born 28 November 1960) is a British fashion designer from Gibraltar. He was the creative director of his eponymous label John Galliano and French fashion houses Givenchy and Dior. Since 2014, Galliano has been the crea ...
, nicknamed the "shellfish dress" for its layers of white organza ruffles that resembled stacked clamshells. McQueen had long admired and sought to emulate the complicated construction of the original.


Runway show


Staging and design

The runway show for ''The Widows of Culloden'' was staged on 3 March 2006 at the
Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy Palais () may refer to: * Dance hall, popularly a ''palais de danse'', in the 1950s and 1960s in the UK * ''Palais'', French for palace ** Grand Palais, the Grand Palais des Champs-Elysées ** Petit Palais, an art museum in Paris * Palais River ...
in Paris, and was dedicated to Isabella Blow. McQueen typically worked with a consistent creative team for his shows, and ''Widows'' was no exception. McQueen's creative director Katy England was responsible for overall the show's overall styling, and hairdresser Eugene Souleiman styled hair. Makeup artist
Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte Tilbury MBE is a British beauty entrepreneur and makeup artist. She is the founder, chairperson, president, and chief creative officer of the makeup and skincare brand Charlotte Tilbury Beauty Ltd. Tilbury is a contributing beauty ed ...
styled makeup, which was kept minimal and neutrally-toned. Production was handled by production duo Gainsbury & Whiting, and John Gosling was responsible for soundtrack design. ''Widows'' marked a return to theatricality for McQueen, whose shows in the preceding two seasons – '' The Man Who Knew Too Much'' (Autumn/Winter 2005) and '' Neptune'' (Spring/Summer 2006) – had been comparatively conventional. Gosling's soundtrack included songs from the 1993 film ''
The Piano ''The Piano'' is a 1993 historical drama, period drama film written and directed by Jane Campion. Starring Holly Hunter, Harvey Keitel, Sam Neill, and Anna Paquin in her first major acting role, the film focuses on a Elective mutism, mute Scott ...
'', scored by Michael Nyman; bagpipes and drums from a Scottish
pipe band A pipe band is a musical ensemble consisting of pipers and drummers. The term pipes and drums, used by military pipe bands is also common. The most common form of pipe band consists of a section of pipers playing the Great Highland bagpipe, a ...
; various punk rock tracks; and a sound effect of howling wind. McQueen originally intended to use a new track commissioned from Nyman for the finale, but dropped it in favor of a song from the
soundtrack A soundtrack is recorded music accompanying and synchronised to the images of a motion picture, drama, book, television program, radio program, or video game; a commercially released soundtrack album of music as featured in the soundtrack ...
of the 1993 film ''
Schindler's List ''Schindler's List'' is a 1993 American epic historical drama film directed and produced by Steven Spielberg and written by Steven Zaillian. It is based on the 1982 novel ''Schindler's Ark'' by Australian novelist Thomas Keneally. The film f ...
''. Scottish historian
Murray Pittock Murray G. H. Pittock MAE FRSE (born 5 January 1962) is a Scottish historian, Bradley Professor of Literature at the University of Glasgow and Pro Vice Principal at the University, where he has served in senior roles including Dean and Vice Princip ...
wrote that the use of the ''Schindler's List'' song "suggested an analogy between Culloden and the Holocaust." The invitations for the ''Widows'' show were black and white, with a print of an Edwardian cameo and the title of the show rendered in .


Show

Audience members entered the space through a large glass pyramid. Seats were arranged around a square stage of rough wood, reminiscent of the wooden stage in his collection ''No. 13'' (Spring/Summer 1999). Another glass pyramid was placed in the centre of the square, leaving a catwalk which the models walked counter-clockwise. In contrast to ''Highland Rape'', in which models staggered or stalked angrily down the runway, the models in ''Widows'' moved in a stoic, upright manner which Gleason described as "the attitude of warrior princesses." ''Widows of Culloden'' comprised fifty-one ensembles across three broad phases, with each look worn by a different model. The show opened with dresses, sweaters, and tailored suits in tweeds, Aran knits, and brocades of muted neutral shades. The next phase comprised dark-colored outfits with a focus on tartan and black leather, followed by a series of black evening gowns sometimes taken as
mourning dress Mourning is the expression of an experience that is the consequence of an event in life involving loss, causing grief, occurring as a result of someone's death, specifically someone who was loved although loss from death is not exclusively ...
es. The final looks were a set of lighter-colored gowns, some of which were worn with
frock coat A frock coat is a formal men's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt cut all around the base just above the knee, popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s). It is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at th ...
s. According to Jonathan Akeroyd, then CEO of the Alexander McQueen brand, the looks chosen for the runway "represented about half of what was available" for sale from the collection. The show closed with a
Pepper's ghost Pepper's ghost is an illusion technique used in the theatre, cinema, amusement parks, museums, television, and concerts. It is named after the English scientist John Henry Pepper (1821–1900) who began popularising the effect with a theatr ...
illusion within the glass pyramid, featuring a life-sized projection of Kate Moss, an English model and friend of McQueen's, wearing a billowing chiffon dress. It was the first fashion show to employ this kind of illusory effect.


Notable ensembles

The show opened with Ukrainian model Snejana Onopka wearing a tailored tweed suit with fur collar, cream shirt with ruffled front, tan-colored leather boots, and a headpiece made from a pair of
mallard duck The mallard () or wild duck (''Anas platyrhynchos'') is a dabbling duck that breeds throughout the temperate and subtropical Americas, Eurasia, and North Africa, and has been introduced species, introduced to New Zealand, Australia, Peru, Bra ...
wings surrounding a silver bird's nest with blue eggs made from quartz Swarovski crystals, speckled to look like duck eggs. The nest and eggs were created by British jeweller
Shaun Leane Shaun Leo Leane (born 20 August 1963 in Oakleigh, Victoria) is a Labor Party politician and a current member for the Eastern Metropolitan Region in the Victorian Legislative Council, having been first elected in 2006. Leane has served as a ...
, while the headpiece was made by Treacy. Look 12 was a full-length dress covered entirely in
pheasant Pheasants ( ) are birds of several genera within the family Phasianidae in the order Galliformes. Although they can be found all over the world in introduced (and captive) populations, the pheasant genera native range is restricted to Eurasia ...
feathers. Its long torso and flared lower portion reference the style of gowns from the
1890s The 1890s (pronounced "eighteen-nineties") was a decade of the Gregorian calendar that began on January 1, 1890, and ended on December 31, 1899. In the United States, the 1890s were marked by a severe economic depression sparked by the Panic of ...
. In an interview, researcher Kate Bethune described the unique construction of the dress: "each of the feathers has been individually hand-stitched onto a length of ribbon, and then these lengths of ribbon have been stitched onto a net ground." Jess Cartner-Morley of ''
The Guardian ''The Guardian'' is a British daily newspaper. It was founded in 1821 as ''The Manchester Guardian'', and changed its name in 1959. Along with its sister papers ''The Observer'' and ''The Guardian Weekly'', ''The Guardian'' is part of the Gu ...
'' called it "meticulously engineered" and likened it to a full-length dress made of
razor clam Razor clam is a common name for long, narrow, saltwater clams (which resemble a closed straight razor in shape), in the genera ''Ensis'', '' Siliqua'', ''Solecurtus'', and '' Solen'', including: * Atlantic jackknife clam, ''Ensis directus'' *Razor ...
shells from ''
Voss Voss () is a municipality and a traditional district in Vestland county, Norway. The administrative center of the municipality is the village of Vossevangen. Other villages include Bolstadøyri, Borstrondi, Evanger, Kvitheim, Mjølfjell, ...
'' (Spring/Summer 2001). Fashion theorist Jonathan Faiers wrote that the lavish use of game bird feathers evoked Scotland's transformation into a "sports arena for absentee English landlords" in the late Victorian era. Look 33 was a one-shouldered tartan dress with tulle underskirt, styled with an
undershirt An undershirt in American English (vest in British English, British and South African English, South African English, banyan in the Indian English, Indian Subcontinent, or singlet in Australian English, Australia and New Zealand English, New Zeala ...
of sheer fabric with rose designs in black, creating an illusion of arm and chest
tattoo A tattoo is a form of body modification made by inserting tattoo ink, dyes, and/or pigments, either indelible or temporary, into the dermis layer of the skin to form a design. Tattoo artists create these designs using several tattooing ...
s. The model's waist was cinched by a large belt in dark leather with a Celtic buckle. Roses paired with plaid was a combination used on some Jacobite clothing. Australian model Gemma Ward wore this dress for an editorial fashion shoot in the July 2006 issue of '' Harper's Bazaar'', styled with the Spitfire headpiece from Look 44. Brazilian model
Raquel Zimmermann Raquel Zimmermann (born May 6, 1983) is a Brazilian model. Raquel was announced as a Revlon ambassador in January 2018. Biography Zimmermann was born in Bom Retiro do Sul, Rio Grande do Sul. Raquel reports that she practices the Transcendent ...
wore Look 47, one of the collection's most-discussed ensembles, a full-length ivory gown in silk
tulle Tulle (; ) is a commune in central France. It is the third-largest town in the former region of Limousin and is the capital of the department of Corrèze, in the region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine. Tulle is also the episcopal see of the Roman Cat ...
and
lace Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is divided into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted o ...
with an antlered headdress. The flowers from the lace were individually cut and hand-sewn to the tulle. The dress ended in a fishtail hem with a tumble of lace ruffles set on the bias; Watt noted a similarity to dresses in the paintings of French artist
James Tissot Jacques Joseph Tissot (; 15 October 1836 – 8 August 1902), anglicized as James Tissot (), was a French painter and illustrator. He was a successful painter of fashionable, modern scenes and society life in Paris before moving to London in 1871 ...
. For the headpiece, a £2,000 piece of hand-embroidered lace was draped over and pierced by a pair of translucent white
Perspex Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) belongs to a group of materials called engineering plastics. It is a transparent thermoplastic. PMMA is also known as acrylic, acrylic glass, as well as by the trade names and brands Crylux, Plexiglas, Acrylite ...
antlers to form a veil. The gown was based in part on the wedding dress of
Sarah Burton Sarah Jane Burton (née Heard; born 1974) is an English fashion designer, currently creative director of fashion brand Alexander McQueen. She designed the wedding dress of Catherine Middleton for her wedding to Prince William in 2011. In 2012, ...
, a designer with McQueen's label; some sources refer to it as a wedding dress, but it has also been called the Widow's Weeds, after the Victorian term for women's mourning clothing. McQueen had employed a similar headpiece using antlers and black lace in ''
Dante Dante Alighieri (; – 14 September 1321), probably baptized Durante di Alighiero degli Alighieri and often referred to as Dante (, ), was an Italian people, Italian Italian poetry, poet, writer and philosopher. His ''Divine Comedy'', origin ...
'' (Autumn/Winter 1996), which reappeared in his 2004 retrospective show ''Black''. Look 48 was a flowing gown in off-white chiffon, worn by Gemma Ward, with butterflies placed in the hair as accessories. Both Judith Watt and fashion journalist Dana Thomas have called it an evolution of the oyster dress, a design from ''Irere'' (Spring/Summer 2003), which itself took inspiration from Galliano's shellfish dress. Cartner-Morley connected the use of butterflies to the final showpiece of ''Voss'', in which artist
Michelle Olley Michelle Olley is a British writer, journalist and magazine and book editor. Michelle Olley attended the University of Westminster in London where she attained a BA (Hons) in Media Studies, specialising in print journalism. She began her career i ...
was "besieged by giant moths."


Reception

Contemporaneous critical response to the collection and the show was positive. The runway show earned McQueen a
standing ovation A standing ovation is a form of applause where members of a seated audience stand up while applauding after extraordinary performances of particularly high acclaim. In Ancient Rome returning military commanders (such as Marcus Licinius Crassus a ...
, a rarity in fashion. Reviewers particularly noted McQueen's tailoring and the artistic yet wearable nature of the collection.The illusion of Kate Moss is regarded by many critics as the highlight of the runway show. ''
Women's Wear Daily ''Women's Wear Daily'' (also known as ''WWD'') is a fashion-industry trade journal often referred to as the "Bible of fashion". Horyn, Cathy"Breaking Fashion News With a Provocative Edge" ''The New York Times''. (August 20, 1999). It provides inf ...
'' named ''Widows'' one of their top ten collections for the Fall 2006 season. It had the highest pageviews at '' Style.com'' for any major collection that season, with 1.7 million.
Robert Polet Robert Polet (born July 25, 1955) was the former CEO of Gucci Group and prior to that worked as the president of the ice cream and frozen foods division of Unilever. A self-described "modern gypsy", he moved frequently from country to country and ...
, then chairman of
Gucci Group Gucci (, ; ) is an Italian high-end Luxury goods, luxury fashion house based in Florence, Italy. Its product lines include handbags, ready-to-wear, footwear, accessories, and home decoration; and it licenses its name and branding to Coty Inc., ...
, the parent company for McQueen's label, reportedly cried "bravo!" upon seeing it. Writing for ''Vogue'', Sarah Mower called it a "timely reconfirmation of McQueen's unique powers as a showman-designer". For ''
The Daily Telegraph ''The Daily Telegraph'', known online and elsewhere as ''The Telegraph'', is a national British daily broadsheet newspaper published in London by Telegraph Media Group and distributed across the United Kingdom and internationally. It was f ...
'', Hilary Alexander said that it "restored the true spirit of the romantic renegade to the catwalk." Lisa Armstrong at ''
The Times ''The Times'' is a British daily national newspaper based in London. It began in 1785 under the title ''The Daily Universal Register'', adopting its current name on 1 January 1788. ''The Times'' and its sister paper '' The Sunday Times'' (f ...
'' wrote that "almost every item was a showstopper but also eminently wearable", although she called the Moss illusion "unspeakably cheesy". According to Susannah Frankel at ''
The Independent ''The Independent'' is a British online newspaper. It was established in 1986 as a national morning printed paper. Nicknamed the ''Indy'', it began as a broadsheet and changed to tabloid format in 2003. The last printed edition was publish ...
'', the show was "a return to the unbridled spectacle and raw power with which he made his name," citing its "juxtaposition of fragility and strength, masculinity and femininity". The collection is viewed favorably in retrospect. In a 2011 interview with ''
Vogue Vogue may refer to: Business * ''Vogue'' (magazine), a US fashion magazine ** British ''Vogue'', a British fashion magazine ** ''Vogue Arabia'', an Arab fashion magazine ** ''Vogue Australia'', an Australian fashion magazine ** ''Vogue China'', ...
'', Sarah Burton, who succeeded McQueen as the label's head after he died in 2010, described ''Widows'' as one of his most iconic collections. In 2012, Judith Watt called the sculptural aspects of some designs close to the "purist cutting of
Cristóbal Balenciaga , birth_name = Cristóbal Balenciaga Eizaguirre , birth_date = , birth_place = Getaria, Spain , death_date = , death_place = Xàbia, Spain , resting_place = Getaria Cemetery , education = , label_name = Balenciaga , ...
," a Spanish designer known for technical precision and unique silhouettes. Dana Thomas said that ''Widows'' represented a "Best of McQueen in the 1990s" in her 2015 book ''Gods and Kings'', writing that many ensembles appeared to be revisions of McQueen's own earlier designs. British fashion curator Claire Wilcox described ''Widows'' in 2016 as a "masterly, romantic collection". Edinburgh-based journalists Caroline Young and Ann Martin wrote that the collection's slim-fit tailored tartan suits "presented the designer's refined craftsmanship at its very best." Speaking in 2020, author Vixy Rae said "it had a focus of extreme technicality matched with richness of imagery with ideas taken directly from Scottish costume".


Analysis


''Highland Rape'' and Scottish culture

''Widows'' served as a counterpart to the controversial ''Highland Rape'', which was also heavily inspired by Scottish culture. In comparison, ''Widows'' has been described as less angry and more reflective. McQueen himself reflected that ''Widows'' displayed a more positive view of Scotland, and related the difference to his own mental health, saying "I’m in a much clearer head space now than I was when I did the ''Highland''." The collections were discussed together in a 2014 BBC Alba documentary, ''McQueen of Scots'', which explored McQueen's Scottish heritage and its influence on his designs. Art historian Ghislaine Wood wrote that the "two collections provided contrasting but cathartic narratives on specific historical events...and in many ways they reflect the complexity and drama of McQueen’s vision". Author Katherine Gleason wrote that the use of tartan in ''Widows'' was "more polished, softened with ruffles and embroidery". To Lisa Armstrong, the restrained nature of ''Widows'', compared to the overt political rage of ''Highland Rape'', was a sign of maturity. Murray Pittock viewed both collections as part of the evolution and worldwide dissemination of tartan since the 1990s. While softer than ''Highland Rape'', ''Widows'' is nonetheless interpreted as a statement about the appropriation of Scottish culture in a wider British context. McQueen's use of tartan in ''Widows'', and the
anglicized Anglicisation is the process by which a place or person becomes influenced by English culture or British culture, or a process of cultural and/or linguistic change in which something non-English becomes English. It can also refer to the influenc ...
aspects of the designs, has been viewed as an exploration of the commodification of tartan in high fashion and British culture. Pittock noted that the wide-ranging visual elements of ''Widows'' "symbolically commented on the destruction,
misprision Misprision (from fro, mesprendre, modern french: se méprendre, "to misunderstand") in English law describes certain kinds of offence. Writers on criminal law usually divide misprision into two kinds: negative and positive. It survives in the la ...
and exploitative reinterpretation of Scotland for a global audience". For American fashion editor Robin Givhan, the use of tartan "hinted at the rebellion of the punk movement without embracing its anger."


Gothic elements

Critics have described ''The'' ''Widows of Culloden'' as an exploration of Gothic literary tropes via fashion, and some have compared it to specific works of
classic literature A classic is a book accepted as being exemplary or particularly noteworthy. What makes a book "classic" is a concern that has occurred to various authors ranging from Italo Calvino to Mark Twain and the related questions of "Why Read the Cla ...
. Gothic fiction, as a descendant of
Romanticism Romanticism (also known as the Romantic movement or Romantic era) was an artistic, literary, musical, and intellectual movement that originated in Europe towards the end of the 18th century, and in most areas was at its peak in the approximate ...
focused on fear, emphasizes feelings of the sublime and the melancholy. It is distinguished from other genres by its focus on the present as a state inevitably haunted by the past: literally, in the form of ghosts, as well as metaphorically, through memories and secrets. In McCaffrey's view, ''Widows'' exemplified melancholy – in the Gothic sense of "tensions between beauty and heartache" – through its visual staging. The stoic performance of the models represented a dignified grief that he likened to "visions of gothic heroines stalking the candle-lit corridors of an ancient castle". He called the illusion of Kate Moss an example of highly-staged melancholy, with every element contributing to the audience's emotional involvement. Kate Bethune presented a similar analysis, noting that the collection's sense of melancholy was "consolidated in its memorable finale". Discussing McQueen's proclivity for the gothic more generally, Spooner highlighted his fascination with dark aspects of history. She noted that in several of his most historical collections, including ''Highland Rape'', ''Widows'', and '' In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, 1692'' (Autumn/Winter 2007), the "distressed fabric; screen-printed photographs; fragments of historical dress disassembled and reordered" reflect the disturbing aspects of history he drew on for inspiration. Author Chloe Fox wrote that McQueen had "mined the refined sense of an aristocratic past" to produce the collection. Literature professor Fiona Robertson found that McQueen's Scottish collections and the historical novels of Scottish writer
Walter Scott Sir Walter Scott, 1st Baronet (15 August 1771 – 21 September 1832), was a Scottish novelist, poet, playwright and historian. Many of his works remain classics of European and Scottish literature, notably the novels '' Ivanhoe'', '' Rob Roy ...
epitomized the Scottish style of gothic by focusing on the country's "broken and self-alienated national history". The mood of ''Widows'' may be read as part of a shift towards darkness and melancholy as an aesthetic in fashion, which some authors have argued was a response to global turmoil and increased nihilism following the turn of the century. Art historian Bonnie English noted that numerous major designers, including
Karl Lagerfeld Karl Otto Lagerfeld (; 10 September 1933 – 19 February 2019) was a German fashion designer, creative director, artist and photographer. He was known as the creative director of the French fashion house Chanel, a position held from 1983 ...
,
John Galliano John Charles Galliano (born 28 November 1960) is a British fashion designer from Gibraltar. He was the creative director of his eponymous label John Galliano and French fashion houses Givenchy and Dior. Since 2014, Galliano has been the crea ...
,
Yohji Yamamoto is a Japanese fashion designer based in Tokyo and Paris. Considered a master tailor alongside those such as Madeleine Vionnet, he is known for his avant-garde tailoring featuring Japanese design aesthetics. Yamamoto has won notable awards f ...
, and Marc Jacobs, produced sombre collections for the Fall/Winter 2006 season. In a 2019 ''New York Times'' essay discussing the cultural archetype of the melancholy woman, writer
Leslie Jamison Leslie Sierra Jamison (born June 21, 1983) is an American novelist and essayist. She is the author of the 2010 novel ''The Gin Closet'' and the 2014 essay collection ''The Empathy Exams.'' Jamison also directs the non-fiction concentration in wri ...
described ''Highland Rape'' and ''Widows'' as emblematic of an "aesthetic of suffering" in fashion.


Historicism

Historical references are a major component of ''The Widows of Culloden'', resulting in critical discussion over whether the collection is
modernist Modernism is both a philosophy, philosophical and arts movement that arose from broad transformations in Western world, Western society during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The movement reflected a desire for the creation of new fo ...
or
historicist Historicism is an approach to explaining the existence of phenomena, especially social and cultural practices (including ideas and beliefs), by studying their history, that is, by studying the process by which they came about. The term is widely u ...
. Cultural theorist Monika Seidl called ''Widows'' a collection in the vein of the
Romantic movement Romanticism (also known as the Romantic movement or Romantic era) was an artistic, literary, musical, and intellectual movement that originated in Europe towards the end of the 18th century, and in most areas was at its peak in the approximate ...
, citing it as an example of fashion that "self-confidently plays around with time when fragments from the past are blatantly and visibly reactivated as the new look of the moment." Cathy Horyn of ''
The New York Times ''The New York Times'' (''the Times'', ''NYT'', or the Gray Lady) is a daily newspaper based in New York City with a worldwide readership reported in 2020 to comprise a declining 840,000 paid print subscribers, and a growing 6 million paid d ...
'' argues that McQueen was "a storyteller," which positioned him as anti-modernist. She criticized the historical elements in ''Widows'' as an unnecessary obstacle between McQueen and his designs. Historian Jack Gann argued that, in effect, it was both: the modern and historical elements combined to show that "perception of our place in time is simultaneously of multiple eras". Deborah Bell, a professor of costume design, cited curator Andrew Bolton in noting that the "romantic version of historic narrative" from ''Highland Rape'' and ''Widows'' was "profoundly autobiographical" for McQueen. Costume curator Lilia Destin noted that the collection subverted typical historical narratives by ignoring warriors in favor of their widows, and wrote that it "awards their ghosts a sense of transhistorical agency through memory." Historian Timothy Campbell wrote about ''Highland Rape'' and ''Widows'' in the coda to his 2016 book ''Historical Style'', describing them as counter-arguments to the notion that traumatic events in history must be experienced only in a state of grief. In Campbell's words, "McQueen suggests, Culloden must first be resurrected or remade as something other than tragedy in order to be historically impactful."


White gowns

The lace gown with veiled antlers – the Widow's Weeds – has provoked significant critical response, much of which focused on the theatrical and animalistic effect created by the headdress. McQueen later said that the look "worked because it looks like she's rammed the piece of lace with her antlers." Lisa Skogh wrote that the veil over the antlers suggested a "dramatic bridal crown". Watt described it as "creating a phantasmagorical hybrid beast-woman". This dress has been discussed as a
wedding dress A wedding dress or bridal gown is the dress worn by the bride during a wedding ceremony. The color, style and ceremonial importance of the gown can depend on the religion and culture of the wedding participants. In Western cultures and Anglo ...
in tandem with the chiffon gown worn by Moss. From this perspective, the antlered gown has been read as especially ambiguous: the veil can be seen as entrapping, protecting, or concealing the wearer. It has drawn comparisons to the wedding dress obsessively worn by the spinster
Miss Havisham Miss Havisham is a character in the Charles Dickens novel '' Great Expectations'' (1861). She is a wealthy spinster, once jilted at the altar, who insists on wearing her wedding dress for the rest of her life. She lives in a ruined mansion wit ...
in the novel '' Great Expectations'' (1861). Sarah Heaton, whose work focuses on the intersection between fashion and literature, described these two long white dresses in ''Widows'' as "revisionist" wedding gowns that evoke the Gothic to subvert its limitations. In her view, the lace veil uplifted on the antlers of McQueen's ensemble is reminiscent of Miss Havisham's wedding veil, but where Miss Havisham's veil is shroudlike and grotesque, the veil of McQueen's design "suggests the strength of femininity." The hologram of Moss, on the other hand, evokes the Gothic trope of the barefoot "mad woman"; normally this figure would be confined to an attic or asylum, but again McQueen subverts the expectation by displaying her to the public, making her ephemeral and uncontained. Cultural theorist Monika Seidl considered the same pair of gowns from a more critical perspective in 2009, arguing that they framed their wearers "as trophy and...as victim." For Seidl, far from presenting feminine strength, the antlers in combination with the gamekeepers' clothing referenced earlier in the show evoked an image of the bride as a hunting trophy. She viewed the Moss illusion as presenting a contained "'' Wiedergänger''" or vengeful spirit. However, she called both dresses persuasive in the way they "destabilise the notion of a bride."


Other analyses

Posthuman theorist Justyna Stępień argued that McQueen's use of unusual silhouettes and structures, particularly in ''Widows'' and '' Plato's Atlantis'' (Spring/Summer 2010), provoked an emotional reaction in the audience and forced them to reconsider their perception of the human body. Australian writer Cassandra Atherton described using several McQueen collections, including ''Widows'', in a university-level creative writing course to teach a connection between poetry and fashion, particularly how one can inspire the other. Literature professor Mary Beth Tegan described using ''Highland Rape'' and ''Widows'' together in 2021 as a teaching aid to engage university students in the short story " The Highland Widow" by
Walter Scott Sir Walter Scott, 1st Baronet (15 August 1771 – 21 September 1832), was a Scottish novelist, poet, playwright and historian. Many of his works remain classics of European and Scottish literature, notably the novels '' Ivanhoe'', '' Rob Roy ...
(1827). She found that the "affective glamour of Gothic tale and fashion spectacle...roused my students’ interest and sustained their reflections" about both the story and the fashion.


Legacy

American actress Sarah Jessica Parker attended the opening of exhibition '' AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion'' (2006) at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met) wearing a version of a tartan dress from ''Widows''. McQueen accompanied her wearing a matching tartan great kilt. Elizabeth McMeekin called it a "chic, tremendously of the-moment" choice. The Victoria and Albert Museum (the V&A) in London owns a variant of the Kate Moss dress. Moss wore the original on the cover of the May 2011 issue of ''Queen (magazine), Harper's Bazaar UK''. Fashion collector Jennifer Zuiker auctioned her McQueen collection in 2020, including at least two pieces from ''Widows''. A tartan dress, Look 30 from the runway show, sold for a reported $9,375, and a floral ballgown, Look 50, sold for a reported $68,750. The National Gallery of Victoria in Australia owns 14 ensembles and Mockup, mockups from ''Widows'', including the original Look 33 and Look 50. The majority of these were gifted by philanthropist Krystyna Campbell-Pretty.


Museum exhibitions

Several ensembles from ''Widows'' – at least five tartan looks, the pheasant feather dress, and the Widow's Weeds – appeared in '' Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty'', a retrospective exhibition of McQueen's designs shown in 2011 at The Met and in 2015 at the V&A. The Kate Moss illusion made an appearance at both versions of the exhibition. In the original presentation at the Met, the Moss illusion was recreated in miniature, but in the V&A restaging, it was presented in full size in its own room. Items from the ''Widows'' collection also appeared in the 2022 exhibition ''Lee Alexander McQueen: Mind, Mythos, Muse'', first shown at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and later in expanded form at the National Gallery of Victoria. The exhibition compared one sleeveless dress with high-necked ruff and gold beading from the ''Widows'' collection to the ruffed and embroidered outfit worn by Louis XIII, King Louis XIII of France in the painting :File:Portrait of Louis XIII, King of France as a Boy LACMA M.48.1.jpg, ''Portrait of Louis XIII, King of France as a Boy'' by Flemish painter Frans Pourbus the Younger, Frans Pourbus II (c. 1616). Two tartan ensembles from the runway show were compared to a 1780 portrait of Hugh Montgomerie, 12th Earl of Eglinton by John Singleton Copley. During the time the portrait was painted, the wearing of tartan in Scotland was prohibited except for soldiers and veterans by the Dress Act 1746, Dress Act of 1746. In Copley's painting, Montgomerie, wearing tartan, poses triumphantly over defeated Cherokee warriors. In reality, Montgomerie was not present at Battle of Echoee, the battle being depicted, which occurred during the Anglo-Cherokee War in 1760; nor was it a British victory. The exhibition presents the ''Widows'' outfits as a counterpoint to the Colonialism, colonialist narrative in the portrait.


Notes


References


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Production stills and concept art from designer Joseph Bennett
{{Alexander McQueen British fashion 2000s fashion 2006 in Paris Alexander McQueen collections