Stokes drift
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For a pure wave motion in
fluid dynamics In physics and engineering, fluid dynamics is a subdiscipline of fluid mechanics that describes the flow of fluids— liquids and gases. It has several subdisciplines, including ''aerodynamics'' (the study of air and other gases in motion) an ...
, the Stokes drift velocity is the average velocity when following a specific
fluid In physics, a fluid is a liquid, gas, or other material that continuously deforms (''flows'') under an applied shear stress, or external force. They have zero shear modulus, or, in simpler terms, are substances which cannot resist any shear ...
parcel as it travels with the
fluid flow In physics and engineering, fluid dynamics is a subdiscipline of fluid mechanics that describes the flow of fluids— liquids and gases. It has several subdisciplines, including ''aerodynamics'' (the study of air and other gases in motion) an ...
. For instance, a particle floating at the free surface of water waves, experiences a net Stokes drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation. More generally, the Stokes drift velocity is the difference between the average
Lagrangian Lagrangian may refer to: Mathematics * Lagrangian function, used to solve constrained minimization problems in optimization theory; see Lagrange multiplier ** Lagrangian relaxation, the method of approximating a difficult constrained problem with ...
flow velocity of a fluid parcel, and the average Eulerian flow velocity of the
fluid In physics, a fluid is a liquid, gas, or other material that continuously deforms (''flows'') under an applied shear stress, or external force. They have zero shear modulus, or, in simpler terms, are substances which cannot resist any shear ...
at a fixed position. This nonlinear phenomenon is named after George Gabriel Stokes, who derived expressions for this drift in his 1847 study of water waves. The Stokes drift is the difference in end positions, after a predefined amount of time (usually one wave period), as derived from a description in the Lagrangian and Eulerian coordinates. The end position in the Lagrangian description is obtained by following a specific fluid parcel during the time interval. The corresponding end position in the Eulerian description is obtained by integrating the flow velocity at a fixed position—equal to the initial position in the Lagrangian description—during the same time interval. The Stokes drift velocity equals the Stokes drift divided by the considered time interval. Often, the Stokes drift velocity is loosely referred to as Stokes drift. Stokes drift may occur in all instances of oscillatory flow which are inhomogeneous in space. For instance in water waves, tides and atmospheric waves. In the Lagrangian description, fluid parcels may drift far from their initial positions. As a result, the unambiguous definition of an average Lagrangian velocity and Stokes drift velocity, which can be attributed to a certain fixed position, is by no means a trivial task. However, such an unambiguous description is provided by the '' Generalized Lagrangian Mean'' (GLM) theory of Andrews and McIntyre in 1978. The Stokes drift is important for the mass transfer of all kind of materials and organisms by oscillatory flows. Further the Stokes drift is important for the generation of Langmuir circulations. For nonlinear and periodic water waves, accurate results on the Stokes drift have been computed and tabulated.


Mathematical description

The Lagrangian motion of a fluid parcel with
position vector In geometry, a position or position vector, also known as location vector or radius vector, is a Euclidean vector that represents the position of a point ''P'' in space in relation to an arbitrary reference origin ''O''. Usually denoted x, r, or s ...
''x = ξ(α,t)'' in the Eulerian coordinates is given by:See Phillips (1977), page 43. : \dot\, =\, \frac\, =\, \boldsymbol(\boldsymbol,t), where ''∂ξ / ∂t'' is the
partial derivative In mathematics, a partial derivative of a function of several variables is its derivative with respect to one of those variables, with the others held constant (as opposed to the total derivative, in which all variables are allowed to vary). Part ...
of ''ξ(α,t)'' with respect to ''t'', and :''ξ(α,t)'' is the Lagrangian
position vector In geometry, a position or position vector, also known as location vector or radius vector, is a Euclidean vector that represents the position of a point ''P'' in space in relation to an arbitrary reference origin ''O''. Usually denoted x, r, or s ...
of a fluid parcel, :''u(x,t)'' is the Eulerian velocity, :''x'' is the
position vector In geometry, a position or position vector, also known as location vector or radius vector, is a Euclidean vector that represents the position of a point ''P'' in space in relation to an arbitrary reference origin ''O''. Usually denoted x, r, or s ...
in the Eulerian coordinate system, :''α'' is the
position vector In geometry, a position or position vector, also known as location vector or radius vector, is a Euclidean vector that represents the position of a point ''P'' in space in relation to an arbitrary reference origin ''O''. Usually denoted x, r, or s ...
in the Lagrangian coordinate system, :''t'' is the time. Often, the Lagrangian coordinates ''α'' are chosen to coincide with the Eulerian coordinates ''x'' at the initial time ''t = t0'' : : \boldsymbol(\boldsymbol,t_0)\, =\, \boldsymbol. But also other ways of labeling the fluid parcels are possible. If the average value of a quantity is denoted by an overbar, then the average Eulerian velocity vector ''ūE'' and average Lagrangian velocity vector ''ūL'' are: : \begin \overline_E\, &=\, \overline, \\ \overline_L\, &=\, \overline\, =\, \overline\, =\, \overline. \end Different definitions of the average may be used, depending on the subject of study, see
ergodic theory Ergodic theory (Greek: ' "work", ' "way") is a branch of mathematics that studies statistical properties of deterministic dynamical systems; it is the study of ergodicity. In this context, statistical properties means properties which are expres ...
: * time average, * space average, * ensemble average and * phase average. The Stokes drift velocity ''ūS'' is defined as the difference between the average Eulerian velocity and the average Lagrangian velocity: : \overline_S\, =\, \overline_L\, -\, \overline_E. In many situations, the mapping of average quantities from some Eulerian position ''x'' to a corresponding Lagrangian position ''α'' forms a problem. Since a fluid parcel with label ''α'' traverses along a path of many different Eulerian positions ''x'', it is not possible to assign ''α'' to a unique ''x''. A mathematically sound basis for an unambiguous mapping between average Lagrangian and Eulerian quantities is provided by the theory of the ''Generalized Lagrangian Mean'' (GLM) by Andrews and McIntyre (1978).


Example: A one-dimensional compressible flow

For the Eulerian velocity as a monochromatic wave of any nature in a continuous medium: u=\hat\sin\left( kx - \omega t \right), one readily obtains by the perturbation theory – with k\hat/\omega as a small parameter – for the particle position x=\xi(\xi_0,t): :\dot=\, (,t)= \hat \sin\, \left( k \xi - \omega t \right), : \xi(\xi_0,t)\approx\xi_0+\frac\cos(k\xi_0-\omega t)-\frac14\frac\sin2(k\xi_0-\omega t)+\frac12\frac t. Here the last term describes the Stokes drift velocity \tfrac12 k\hat^2/\omega.


Example: Deep water waves

The Stokes drift was formulated for water waves by George Gabriel Stokes in 1847. For simplicity, the case of infinite-deep water is considered, with linear wave propagation of a
sinusoidal A sine wave, sinusoidal wave, or just sinusoid is a mathematical curve defined in terms of the '' sine'' trigonometric function, of which it is the graph. It is a type of continuous wave and also a smooth periodic function. It occurs often in m ...
wave on the free surface of a fluid layer:See ''e.g.'' Phillips (1977), page 37. : \eta\, =\, a\, \cos\, \left( k x - \omega t \right), where :''η'' is the elevation of the free surface in the ''z''-direction (meters), :''a'' is the wave
amplitude The amplitude of a periodic variable is a measure of its change in a single period (such as time or spatial period). The amplitude of a non-periodic signal is its magnitude compared with a reference value. There are various definitions of a ...
(meters), :''k'' is the wave number: ''k = 2π / λ'' ( radians per meter), :''ω'' is the angular frequency: ''ω = 2π / T'' ( radians per
second The second (symbol: s) is the unit of time in the International System of Units (SI), historically defined as of a day – this factor derived from the division of the day first into 24 hours, then to 60 minutes and finally to 60 seconds ...
), :''x'' is the horizontal
coordinate In geometry, a coordinate system is a system that uses one or more numbers, or coordinates, to uniquely determine the position of the points or other geometric elements on a manifold such as Euclidean space. The order of the coordinates is si ...
and the wave propagation direction (meters), :''z'' is the vertical
coordinate In geometry, a coordinate system is a system that uses one or more numbers, or coordinates, to uniquely determine the position of the points or other geometric elements on a manifold such as Euclidean space. The order of the coordinates is si ...
, with the positive ''z'' direction pointing out of the fluid layer (meters), :''λ'' is the wave length (meters), and :''T'' is the wave period (
second The second (symbol: s) is the unit of time in the International System of Units (SI), historically defined as of a day – this factor derived from the division of the day first into 24 hours, then to 60 minutes and finally to 60 seconds ...
s). As derived below, the horizontal component ''ūS''(''z'') of the Stokes drift velocity for deep-water waves is approximately:See Phillips (1977), page 44. Or Craik (1985), page 110. : \overline_S\, \approx\, \omega\, k\, a^2\, \text^\, =\, \frac\, \text^. As can be seen, the Stokes drift velocity ''ūS'' is a nonlinear quantity in terms of the wave
amplitude The amplitude of a periodic variable is a measure of its change in a single period (such as time or spatial period). The amplitude of a non-periodic signal is its magnitude compared with a reference value. There are various definitions of a ...
''a''. Further, the Stokes drift velocity decays exponentially with depth: at a depth of a quarter wavelength, ''z = -¼ λ'', it is about 4% of its value at the mean free surface, ''z = 0''.


Derivation

It is assumed that the waves are of infinitesimal
amplitude The amplitude of a periodic variable is a measure of its change in a single period (such as time or spatial period). The amplitude of a non-periodic signal is its magnitude compared with a reference value. There are various definitions of a ...
and the free surface oscillates around the
mean There are several kinds of mean in mathematics, especially in statistics. Each mean serves to summarize a given group of data, often to better understand the overall value ( magnitude and sign) of a given data set. For a data set, the '' ari ...
level ''z = 0''. The waves propagate under the action of gravity, with a constant
acceleration In mechanics, acceleration is the rate of change of the velocity of an object with respect to time. Accelerations are vector quantities (in that they have magnitude and direction). The orientation of an object's acceleration is given by ...
vector by
gravity In physics, gravity () is a fundamental interaction which causes mutual attraction between all things with mass or energy. Gravity is, by far, the weakest of the four fundamental interactions, approximately 1038 times weaker than the str ...
(pointing downward in the negative ''z''-direction). Further the fluid is assumed to be inviscidViscosity has a pronounced effect on the mean Eulerian velocity and mean Lagrangian (or mass transport) velocity, but much less on their difference: the Stokes drift outside the boundary layers near bed and free surface, see for instance Longuet-Higgins (1953). Or Phillips (1977), pages 53–58. and incompressible, with a constant
mass density Density (volumetric mass density or specific mass) is the substance's mass per unit of volume. The symbol most often used for density is ''ρ'' (the lower case Greek letter rho), although the Latin letter ''D'' can also be used. Mathematically ...
. The fluid
flow Flow may refer to: Science and technology * Fluid flow, the motion of a gas or liquid * Flow (geomorphology), a type of mass wasting or slope movement in geomorphology * Flow (mathematics), a group action of the real numbers on a set * Flow (psych ...
is irrotational. At infinite depth, the fluid is taken to be at rest. Now the
flow Flow may refer to: Science and technology * Fluid flow, the motion of a gas or liquid * Flow (geomorphology), a type of mass wasting or slope movement in geomorphology * Flow (mathematics), a group action of the real numbers on a set * Flow (psych ...
may be represented by a velocity potential ''φ'', satisfying the Laplace equation and : \varphi\, =\, \frac\, a\; \text^\, \sin\, \left( k x - \omega t \right). In order to have non-trivial solutions for this
eigenvalue In linear algebra, an eigenvector () or characteristic vector of a linear transformation is a nonzero vector that changes at most by a scalar factor when that linear transformation is applied to it. The corresponding eigenvalue, often denot ...
problem, the wave length and wave period may not be chosen arbitrarily, but must satisfy the deep-water dispersion relation:See ''e.g.'' Phillips (1977), page 38. : \omega^2\, =\, g\, k. with ''g'' the
acceleration In mechanics, acceleration is the rate of change of the velocity of an object with respect to time. Accelerations are vector quantities (in that they have magnitude and direction). The orientation of an object's acceleration is given by ...
by
gravity In physics, gravity () is a fundamental interaction which causes mutual attraction between all things with mass or energy. Gravity is, by far, the weakest of the four fundamental interactions, approximately 1038 times weaker than the str ...
in (''m / s2''). Within the framework of linear theory, the horizontal and vertical components, ''ξx'' and ''ξz'' respectively, of the Lagrangian position ''ξ'' are: : \begin \xi_x\, &=\, x\, +\, \int\, \frac\; \textt\, =\, x\, -\, a\, \text^\, \sin\, \left( k x - \omega t \right), \\ \xi_z\, &=\, z\, +\, \int\, \frac\; \textt\, =\, z\, +\, a\, \text^\, \cos\, \left( k x - \omega t \right). \end The horizontal component ''ūS'' of the Stokes drift velocity is estimated by using a
Taylor expansion In mathematics, the Taylor series or Taylor expansion of a function is an infinite sum of terms that are expressed in terms of the function's derivatives at a single point. For most common functions, the function and the sum of its Taylor se ...
around ''x'' of the Eulerian horizontal-velocity component ''ux = ∂ξx / ∂t'' at the position ''ξ'' : : \begin \overline_S\, &=\, \overline\, -\, \overline\, \\ &=\, \overline -\, \overline \\ &\approx\, \overline\, +\, \overline \\ &=\, \overline\, \\ &+\, \overline\, \\ &=\, \overline \\ &=\, \omega\, k\, a^2\, \text^. \end


See also

* Coriolis-Stokes force * Darwin drift * Lagrangian and Eulerian coordinates * Material derivative


References


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Notes

{{physical oceanography Fluid dynamics Water waves