Shanghai Tang
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Shanghai Tang () is a
Hong Kong Hong Kong ( (US) or (UK); , ), officially the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region of the People's Republic of China ( abbr. Hong Kong SAR or HKSAR), is a city and special administrative region of China on the eastern Pearl River Delt ...
luxury fashion house founded in 1994 by Hong Kong businessman
David Tang Sir David Wing-cheung Tang, (; 2 August 1954 – 29 August 2017), was a Hong Kong businessman, philanthropist and socialite. He was best known for founding the Shanghai Tang fashion chain in 1994, which he sold in 1998 to Richemont. Early l ...
. The brand is known for its luxury homeware collection and fine
bone china Bone china is a type of ceramic that is composed of bone ash, feldspathic material, and kaolin. It has been defined as "ware with a translucent body" containing a minimum of 30% of phosphate derived from animal bone and calculated calcium phospha ...
. In 1998,
Richemont Compagnie Financière Richemont S.A., commonly known as Richemont, is a Switzerland-based luxury goods holding company founded in 1988 by South African businessman Johann Rupert. Through its various subsidiaries, Richemont produces and sells j ...
acquired David Tang's controlling stake in the business. David Tang stated that Shanghai Tang is a Chinese label that set out to rejuvenate Chinese fashion of the 1920s and 1930s. The fundamental design concept is inspired by 1920s
Cheongsam ''Cheongsam'' (, ), also known as the ''qipao'' () and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often s ...
combined with the modernity of the 21st century. Shanghai Tang is noted for its use of Chinese culture and heritage in its product styling, branding and marketing.


History


Early years

Shanghai Tang was partially inspired by Tang's desire to create a global brand that represented
China China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. It is the world's most populous country, with a population exceeding 1.4 billion, slightly ahead of India. China spans the equivalent of five time zones and ...
, stating, "as
Coca-Cola Coca-Cola, or Coke, is a carbonated soft drink manufactured by the Coca-Cola Company. Originally marketed as a temperance drink and intended as a patent medicine, it was invented in the late 19th century by John Stith Pemberton in Atlanta ...
is American, as Mercedes is German, I think there should be something that is quintessentially Chinese". After founding the
China Club The China Club is a retro-chic, Shanghai-style club and Michelin star restaurant in Hong Kong. It is related to the China Clubs in Singapore and Beijing but not to the clubs of the same name in New York City and Berlin, Germany. The China Club ...
in 1991, Tang moved to incorporate his tastes of fusing Shanghainese design with modern style by forming Shanghai Tang in 1994. Its flagship location is on the ground floor of
Pedder Building The Pedder Building, located at No. 12 Pedder Street, in Central, Hong Kong, is a historic commercial building built in the Beaux-Arts style. Built in 1923
,
Central, Hong Kong Central (also Central District) is the central business district of Hong Kong. It is located in Central and Western District, on the north shore of Hong Kong Island, across Victoria Harbour from Tsim Sha Tsui, the southernmost point of Kowloo ...
. Initially, Shanghai Tang was a fashion house for custom high-end tailoring, employing tailors from Shanghai who left during the
Communist Revolution A communist revolution is a proletarian revolution often, but not necessarily, inspired by the ideas of Marxism that aims to replace capitalism with communism. Depending on the type of government, socialism can be used as an intermediate stage ...
. Tang expanded his business to sell
ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear (or ''prêt-à-porter''; abbreviated RTW; "off-the-rack" or "off-the-peg" in casual use) is the term for ready-made garments, sold in finished condition in standardized sizes, as distinct from made-to-measure or bespoke clothing ...
items in 1996.


Expansion into a global brand, and resulting change

The late 1990s and early 2000s were marked by change for Shanghai Tang. Tang wanted to turn the company into a global brand, and so his Hong Kong location was followed by 24 outlets worldwide over the years, including
Bangkok Bangkok, officially known in Thai language, Thai as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon and colloquially as Krung Thep, is the capital and most populous city of Thailand. The city occupies in the Chao Phraya River delta in central Thailand and has an estima ...
,
Beijing } Beijing ( ; ; ), alternatively romanized as Peking ( ), is the capital of the People's Republic of China. It is the center of power and development of the country. Beijing is the world's most populous national capital city, with over 21 ...
,
Honolulu Honolulu (; ) is the capital and largest city of the U.S. state of Hawaii, which is in the Pacific Ocean. It is an unincorporated county seat of the consolidated City and County of Honolulu, situated along the southeast coast of the island ...
,
London London is the capital and largest city of England and the United Kingdom, with a population of just under 9 million. It stands on the River Thames in south-east England at the head of a estuary down to the North Sea, and has been a majo ...
,
Miami Miami ( ), officially the City of Miami, known as "the 305", "The Magic City", and "Gateway to the Americas", is a East Coast of the United States, coastal metropolis and the County seat, county seat of Miami-Dade County, Florida, Miami-Dade C ...
,
New York City New York, often called New York City or NYC, is the List of United States cities by population, most populous city in the United States. With a 2020 population of 8,804,190 distributed over , New York City is also the L ...
,
Las Vegas Las Vegas (; Spanish for "The Meadows"), often known simply as Vegas, is the 25th-most populous city in the United States, the most populous city in the state of Nevada, and the county seat of Clark County. The city anchors the Las Vegas ...
,
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,
Paris Paris () is the capital and most populous city of France, with an estimated population of 2,165,423 residents in 2019 in an area of more than 105 km² (41 sq mi), making it the 30th most densely populated city in the world in 2020. S ...
,
Shanghai Shanghai (; , , Standard Mandarin pronunciation: ) is one of the four direct-administered municipalities of the People's Republic of China (PRC). The city is located on the southern estuary of the Yangtze River, with the Huangpu River flow ...
,
Tokyo Tokyo (; ja, 東京, , ), officially the Tokyo Metropolis ( ja, 東京都, label=none, ), is the capital and largest city of Japan. Formerly known as Edo, its metropolitan area () is the most populous in the world, with an estimated 37.468 ...
,
Singapore Singapore (), officially the Republic of Singapore, is a sovereign island country and city-state in maritime Southeast Asia. It lies about one degree of latitude () north of the equator, off the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula, borde ...
and
Macau Macau or Macao (; ; ; ), officially the Macao Special Administrative Region of the People's Republic of China (MSAR), is a city and special administrative region of China in the western Pearl River Delta by the South China Sea. With a pop ...
. They are often located in well-known areas such as Singapore's
Orchard Road Orchard Road, often known colloquially as simply Orchard, is a major –long road in the Central Area of Singapore. Known as a famous tourist attraction, it is an upscale shopping area of Singapore, with numerous internationally renowned depa ...
, Bangkok's
Sukhumvit Road Sukhumvit Road ( th, ถนนสุขุมวิท, , ), or Highway 3 ( th, ทางหลวงแผ่นดินหมายเลข 3), is a major road in Thailand, and a major surface road of Bangkok and other cities. It follows ...
, and Shanghai's
Xintiandi Xintiandi (, Shanghainese: ''Shinthidi'' lit. "New Heaven and Earth",Warr, Anne: ''Shanghai Architecture'', The Watermark Press, 2007, fig. "New World") is an affluent car-free shopping, eating and entertainment district of Shanghai. Xintiand ...
. Shanghai Tang's first American store was opened in New York on November 21, 1997, and in 1998, the Swiss company Richemont bought a controlling stake in the fashion house. However, the New York store, located on Madison Avenue, closed in less than two years due to lower-than-expected sales, relative to the high rent. The store was moved to a smaller venue in 2001. In 2001, Raphael le Masne de Chermont, from the parent company Richemont, was appointed CEO of Shanghai Tang. In addition, Joanne Ooi joined the company as
creative director A creative director (or creative supervisor) is a person who makes high-level creative decisions and, with those decisions, oversees the creation of creative assets such as advertisements, products, events, or logos. Creative director positions ar ...
the same year. As the chief executive, Le Masne de Chermont wanted to figure out a way to cater to both the Chinese and international market, remarking, " hanghai Tang wastoo dependent on Western people visiting Hong Kong, and we needed to transform the brand into something mainland Chinese wanted to buy". As part of the strategy to revitalize Shanghai Tang, Ooi traveled across the country, taking notes on Chinese culture. She then picked themes based on her notes that formed the basis of the company's seasonal collections. Le Masne de Chermont and Ooi opted to transform the brand from 1930s Shanghai, into a more contemporary style that retained its vibrant colours from previous designs . Shanghai Tang helped design costumes for the 2004
Yonfan Yonfan (born 14 October 1947) is a Hong Kong film director and photographer. Biography He was born in Wuhan, Hubei, Republic of China (1912–49), Republic of China. As the Yang family emigrated from mainland China, they lived first in Hong Kong ...
film '' Colour Blossoms'', starring Teresa Cheung. As part of their focus on the Chinese market, Shanghai Tang created the Mandarin Collar Society in 2007. It is an invitation-only club to promote shirts with a
mandarin collar A mandarin collar, standing collar, band collar or choker collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. The style derives its Western name from the mandarin bureaucrats in Qing-era China that employed it as part of th ...
as standard work attire in Asia. Ooi left Shanghai Tang by the end of the following year to work for a biotech company.


Present

After 17 years, in October 2011, the company's 6,300-square-foot flagship store in Hong Kong's Pedder Building closed, with rising rents being cited as the main reason. Shanghai Tang lost the space to American retailer Abercrombie & Fitch, who were prepared to pay two-and-a-half times the original rent. In the meantime, the company set up several project units to continue its presence in Central, namely "A New Journey as a Nomad of Central", in a series of Mongolian gers on the roof of Central Pier 1 from 4 November to 31 December 2011. This was followed by "Shanghai Tang Loft" in Pedder Building, upstairs to the old store, from 23 October to 20 February 2012. As of 2018, there are eight stores across Hong Kong as well as stores in Shanghai, Beijing and other Asian cities, along with a string of Shanghai Tang cafes and restaurants in China. In April 2012, a new flagship store was opened on
Duddell Street Duddell Street is a small street located near the Lan Kwai Fong district in Central, Hong Kong. Named after George and Frederick Duddell, it stretches from Ice House Street to Queen's Road Central. The street is noted for containing the ci ...
in Central, called "Shanghai Tang Mansion". At nearly 1,400 square metres, it is Shanghai Tang's largest branch, and was designed by Shanghai-based Design MVW. Shanghai Tang also brought in designer Raffaele Borriello as creative director the same year. In 2013, Shanghai Tang announced a 12-year partnership with Inter Parfums to create fragrances under the Shanghai Tang name. In 2014 Shanghai Tang celebrated its 20th anniversary in Shanghai. In July 2017, Swiss luxury group
Richemont Compagnie Financière Richemont S.A., commonly known as Richemont, is a Switzerland-based luxury goods holding company founded in 1988 by South African businessman Johann Rupert. Through its various subsidiaries, Richemont produces and sells j ...
announced that it had sold Shanghai Tang to a group of investors headed by Italian entrepreneur Alessandro Bastagli. Bastagli bought the business believing there was potential in Shanghai Tang to grow and attract a younger generation of customers who wanted a Chinese brand. The new owner enlisted his son to assist with product development and marketing. Le Masne de Chermont exited the company that year. On 4 July 2017, Shanghai Tang creative director Raffaele Borriello died from surgery complications. Founder David Tang died the next month on August 29, 2017. Designer Massimiliano Giornetti was appointed creative director in December 2017. In December 2018, after disagreements between Bastagli and Hong Kong-based investment partner Cassia Investments, the controlling stake in Shanghai Tang was sold to Chinese group Lunar Capital. Giornetti left Shanghai Tang that month, and Tang's eldest daughter, Victoria Tang, was appointed as creative director. In 2019, Shanghai Tang celebrated its silver jubilee by collaborating with Chinese artist
Xu Bing Xu Bing (; born 1955) is a Chinese artist who served as vice-president of the Central Academy of Fine Arts. He is known for his printmaking skills and installation art, as well as his creative artistic use of language, words, and text and how t ...
on calligraphic artwork inspired by Shanghai Tang's vision. 2020 was marked by change for Shanghai Tang: according to ''
Women's Wear Daily ''Women's Wear Daily'' (also known as ''WWD'') is a fashion-industry trade journal often referred to as the "Bible of fashion". Horyn, Cathy"Breaking Fashion News With a Provocative Edge" ''The New York Times''. (August 20, 1999). It provides inf ...
'', CEO Maurizio de Gasperis left the company in April of that year, with Shirley Tai taking his place. Victoria Tang also announced in November that she would be leaving her creative director role.


See also

* Shopping in Hong Kong


References


Further reading

* *Wu, Zhiyan., Borgerson, Janet and Schroeder, Jonathan (2013), ''From Chinese Brand Culture to Global Brands: Insights from Aesthetics, Fashion and History,'' Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan
.


External links

* {{Richemont 1994 establishments in Hong Kong Clothing brands of Hong Kong Clothing retailers of Hong Kong Clothing companies established in 1994 High fashion brands Hong Kong brands Privately held companies of China Richemont brands