Speed Climbing At The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
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Speed climbing Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers. Competition speed climbing, which takes place on a ...
competitions at the
2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 33rd edition of the international sport climbing competition series, held in seven locations. There are 11 events: four bouldering, five lead, and two speed events. The season began on 16 April in Meiringen ...
are being held at two locations, from 28 May to 3 July 2021. The
International Federation of Sport Climbing The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competitive climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. It was founded in Frankfurt on 27 Ja ...
had originally scheduled six speed climbing events concluding on 31 October, but
COVID-19 travel restrictions During the COVID-19 pandemic, many countries and regions imposed quarantines, entry bans, or other travel restrictions for citizens of or recent travelers to the most affected areas. Some countries and regions imposed global restrictions th ...
resulted in the cancellation of events in
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and Wujiang in China,
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in Indonesia and
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in South Korea. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon
points Point or points may refer to: Places * Point, Lewis, a peninsula in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland * Point, Texas, a city in Rains County, Texas, United States * Point, the NE tip and a ferry terminal of Lismore, Inner Hebrides, Scotland * Point ...
, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.


Overview


Records broken


Competition format

The speed wall is standardized: 15 meters high, 5 degrees overhanging, same route. In the qualifications, athletes race in both lane a and lane b; only their best times are recorded and used for seeding. Sixteen fastest athletes in the qualifications progress into the finals where athletes are seeded and raced head-to-head against.each other.


Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon
points Point or points may refer to: Places * Point, Lewis, a peninsula in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland * Point, Texas, a city in Rains County, Texas, United States * Point, the NE tip and a ferry terminal of Lismore, Inner Hebrides, Scotland * Point ...
, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are four competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed ''(in brackets)'' are not counted.


Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:


Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021: * = Joint place with another athlete


National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Speed World Cup 2021: ''Country names as used by the IFSC''


Salt Lake City, United States (May, 28–30)


Men

38 men attended the event.
Kiromal Katibin Kiromal Katibin (born ) is an Indonesian sport climber specializing in speed climbing. He is the current world record holder in speed climbing, with a time of 5.009 seconds recorded at 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Chamonix, France in July 202 ...
of Indonesia set a world record time of 5.258 seconds in qualifying, a record that was broken the same day by fellow Indonesian,
Veddriq Leonardo Veddriq Leonardo (born 11 March 1997) is an Indonesian speed climber. For about a year he held the world record in his discipline, which he set en route to winning the men's speed climbing event at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Salt Lake ...
, who hit the buzzer at 5.20 in the final run against Katibin. Poland's Marcin Dzieński placed third after beating American John Brosler in the small final.


Women

24 women attended the event. Poland's
Aleksandra Mirosław Aleksandra Mirosław (née Rudzińska, born 2 February 1994) is a Polish speed climber and a two-time women's speed climbing world champion as well as the current women's speed climbing world record holder. Early life Mirosław is originally ...
took the win after winning a tight race against the United States'
Emma Hunt Emma Hunt (born April 1, 2003) is an American competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing, and holds the American women's speed record with 6.67 seconds, set at the IFSC Climbing World Championships in Bern in August 202 ...
who took second place. A non-speed-specialist Japan's
Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition boulderer. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined, winning a silver medal. Life Her father and sister introduced her to climbing when she was 9, and she competed in her first world cup aged 17 ...
placed third after beating Poland's Patrycja Chudziak in the small final.


Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3)


Men

51 men attended the event. Indonesia's
Veddriq Leonardo Veddriq Leonardo (born 11 March 1997) is an Indonesian speed climber. For about a year he held the world record in his discipline, which he set en route to winning the men's speed climbing event at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Salt Lake ...
claimed his second consecutive win after beating Russia's Dmitrii Timofeev in the final race. Leonardo's teammate,
Kiromal Katibin Kiromal Katibin (born ) is an Indonesian sport climber specializing in speed climbing. He is the current world record holder in speed climbing, with a time of 5.009 seconds recorded at 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Chamonix, France in July 202 ...
placed third after beating Russia's
Vladislav Deulin Vladislav Aleksandrovich Deulin (russian: Владислав Александрович Деулин; born 5 May 1994) is a Russian competition climber. He is the current world leader in the IFSC competition speed climbing discipine. Rankings ...
in the small final.


Women

40 women attended the event. Russia's Ekaterina Barashchuk took her first World Cup gold medal after outracing her teammate and current world record holder
Iuliia Kaplina Iuliia Vladimirovna Kaplina (russian: Юлия Владимировна Каплина; born 11 May 1993) is a Russian sport climber who has won multiple speed climbing events and set multiple world records. She was the world record holder in wom ...
in the final race. Poland's Patrycja Chudziak took third place after beating Indonesia's
Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (born 24 January 2001) is an Indonesian competition climber specializing in competition speed climbing. In November 2023, Desak was named to the BBC's 100 Women list. Competition climbing career Desak finished tent ...
in the small final.


References

{{Speed climbing at the IFSC Climbing World Cup navbox IFSC Climbing World Cup 2021 in sport climbing