Sangemarmar Sar (), or Sangemar Mar and Sang-e-Marmar, is a pyramidal peak in the
Batura Muztagh
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The Batura Muztagh () mountains are a sub-range of the Karakoram mountain range. They are located in between central hunza and upper hunza(Gojal valley) in the Hunza district of the Gilgit-Baltistan province in northern Pakistan.
They ar ...
, at the end of a spur ridge running southwest from
Pasu Sar
Passu Sar ( ur, ; or Passu Sar, Passu I) is a mountain peak in the Batura Muztagh, a sub-range of the Karakoram mountain range, in the Hunza District of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It is the high point of the Passu massif, which also includes Pas ...
in
Pakistan
Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...
. It lies between the Muchuhar Glacier, on the west, and the Shispare (or Hasanabad) Glacier on the east.
Overview
Because it is much lower in elevation than many of the surrounding peaks, such as
Batura Sar
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Batura Sar ( ur, بتورا سر), also referred to as Batura I, is the 25th-highest mountain on Earth and the 10th-highest in Pakistan. It is the highest peak of the Batura Muztagh, which is the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram r ...
and
Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi ( ur, ) is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range of the Gilgit-Baltistan territory of Pakistan.
Geography
Rakaposhi is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range in the Gilgit-Baltistan territory of Pakistan, about north of the ...
, Sangemarmar Sar is little-known, and there has been only one successful ascent of the peak, according to th
Himalayan Index However, because of its location on the southern flank of the main crest of the range, relatively near the Hunza Valley, it does enjoy tremendous vertical relief above local terrain.
For example, its summit rises over above the Hunza River, in a horizontal distance of .
[Jerzy Wala, ''Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram'', Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research]
The mountain was named (as "Sangemarmur", meaning in
Persian
Persian may refer to:
* People and things from Iran, historically called ''Persia'' in the English language
** Persians, the majority ethnic group in Iran, not to be conflated with the Iranic peoples
** Persian language, an Iranian language of the ...
"''ore/ heart of marble''", after a conspicuous
band of yellow marble crossing the summit) in 1964 by the First Canadian Himalayan Expedition, comprising Fred Roots (leader), Donald Lyon, John Ricker, Lisle Irwin, Donald Poole, Hermann Jamek, Momin Khalifa and Karl Tomm. They intended to locate and climb Hachindar Chhish, which they determined to be a peak a few kilometers to the west of Sangemarmar Sar; however that peak proved too difficult and technical for the party to attempt. The expedition reached but was then forced to retreat by repeated heavy snowstorms.
[Ernest Frederick Roots, "Southern Batura Muztagh, Western Karakoram Range, Hunza", '']American Alpine Journal
The ''American Alpine Journal'' is an annual magazine published by the American Alpine Club. Its mission is "to document and communicate mountain exploration." The headquarters is in Golden, Colorado.
Subtitled as a compilation of "The World's M ...
'' 1965, p. 473. See als
The First Canadian Himalayan Expedition 1964
at the Alpine Club of Ottawa website.
On July 11, 1984, a team from
Osaka University
, abbreviated as , is a public research university located in Osaka Prefecture, Japan. It is one of Japan's former Imperial Universities and a Designated National University listed as a "Top Type" university in the Top Global University Project. ...
made the first ascent of the mountain via the southwest ridge. The expedition comprised Takashi Matsuo (leader), Hiromi Okuyama, Takehiro Hirota, Tokio Kozuki, Masaya Oishi, Toru Sakakibara, Kenya Sato, Shinichi Miyata, Tomoyoshi Mizukawa, Hiroyuki Onishi, and Akira Noguchi. All members reached the summit, on two separate days. They encountered ice up to 50 degrees. They used three high camps, and fixed of rope.
[Akira Noguchi, "Sangemar Mar", '']American Alpine Journal
The ''American Alpine Journal'' is an annual magazine published by the American Alpine Club. Its mission is "to document and communicate mountain exploration." The headquarters is in Golden, Colorado.
Subtitled as a compilation of "The World's M ...
'' 1985, p. 329.
See also
*
List of mountains in Pakistan
Pakistan is home to 108 peaks above 7,000 metres and 4555 above 6,000 m. There is no count of the peaks above 5,000 and 4,000 m. Five of the 14 highest independent peaks in the world (the eight-thousanders) are in Pakistan (four of which lie in ...
References
{{reflist
Himalayan Index(Corrected versions of SRTM data; look for the "Batura Sar" tile)
Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan
Six-thousanders of the Karakoram