Saadian Tombs (5038944236)
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The Saadian Tombs (, , ) are a historic royal necropolis in Marrakesh,
Morocco Morocco (),, ) officially the Kingdom of Morocco, is the westernmost country in the Maghreb region of North Africa. It overlooks the Mediterranean Sea to the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the west, and has land borders with Algeria t ...
, located on the south side of the Kasbah Mosque, inside the royal kasbah (citadel) district of the city. They date to the time of the
Saadian dynasty The Saadi Sultanate (also rendered in English as Sa'di, Sa'did, Sa'dian, or Saadian; ar, السعديون, translit=as-saʿdiyyūn) was a state which ruled present-day Morocco and parts of West Africa in the 16th and 17th centuries. It was l ...
and in particular to the reign of
Ahmad al-Mansur Ahmad al-Mansur ( ar, أبو العباس أحمد المنصور, Ahmad Abu al-Abbas al-Mansur, also al-Mansur al-Dahabbi (the Golden), ar, أحمد المنصور الذهبي; and Ahmed al-Mansour; 1549 in Fes – 25 August 1603, Fes) was t ...
(1578–1603), though members of Morocco's monarchy continued to be buried here for a time afterwards. The complex is regarded by many art historians as the high point of
Moroccan architecture Moroccan architecture refers to the architecture characteristic of Morocco throughout its history and up to modern times. The country's diverse geography and long history, marked by successive waves of settlers through both migration and military ...
in the Saadian period due to its luxurious decoration and careful interior design. Today the site is a major tourist attraction in Marrakesh.


History


Before the Saadians

The early history of the necropolis is not well known. The necropolis is located right behind the ''
qibla The qibla ( ar, قِبْلَة, links=no, lit=direction, translit=qiblah) is the direction towards the Kaaba in the Sacred Mosque in Mecca, which is used by Muslims in various religious contexts, particularly the direction of prayer for the ...
'' wall (in this case the southeastern wall) of the Kasbah Mosque, which was built, along with the surrounding royal kasbah (citadel), by the
Almohad The Almohad Caliphate (; ar, خِلَافَةُ ٱلْمُوَحِّدِينَ or or from ar, ٱلْمُوَحِّدُونَ, translit=al-Muwaḥḥidūn, lit=those who profess the unity of God) was a North African Berber Muslim empire fou ...
ruler
Abu Yusuf Ya'qub al-Mansur Abū Yūsuf Yaʿqūb ibn Yūsuf ibn Abd al-Muʾmin al-Manṣūr (; c. 1160 – 23 January 1199 Marrakesh), commonly known as Yaqub al-Mansur () or Moulay Yacoub (), was the third Almohad Caliph. Succeeding his father, al-Mansur reigned from 118 ...
in the late 12th century. Accordingly, it is believed that this was the site of a necropolis even in Almohad times, though there's no evidence of any significant figures being buried here at that time (the Almohad rulers were buried at Tinmal instead). It is known, however, that in the 14th century, during the Marinid dynasty period, Sultan Abu al-Hasan was buried here temporarily in 1351. He died while in exile in the High Atlas mountains and Marrakesh was thus the closest city for burial (which, under Islamic tradition, must be carried out quickly). A few months later his body was then moved and reburied in the Marinid royal necropolis at
Chellah The Chellah or Shalla ( ber, script=Latn, Sla or ; ar, شالة), is a medieval fortified Muslim necropolis and ancient archeological site in Rabat, Morocco, located on the south (left) side of the Bou Regreg estuary. The earliest evidence of ...
(near Rabat). A
marble Marble is a metamorphic rock composed of recrystallized carbonate minerals, most commonly calcite or dolomite. Marble is typically not foliated (layered), although there are exceptions. In geology, the term ''marble'' refers to metamorphose ...
tombstone with a long inscription attests to his first burial in the Marrakesh kasbah necropolis, and this tombstone is still found in the Chamber of the Three Niches in the Saadian tombs today (presumably moved there during or after Saadian construction). The Marinid sultan's burial here suggests that it must have already been a cemetery at the time. Afterwards, the necropolis also became the burial site of the Hintati emirs who controlled the region of Marrakesh from the mid-15th century until the 1520s. Some of their
epitaph An epitaph (; ) is a short text honoring a deceased person. Strictly speaking, it refers to text that is inscribed on a tombstone or plaque, but it may also be used in a figurative sense. Some epitaphs are specified by the person themselves be ...
s are still visible today.


The Saadian necropolis

The present necropolis dates generally from the Saadian period but there are still some questions about the chronology and attribution of the various constructions which have not been resolved beyond doubt. The most generally cited timeline and the most complete analysis was laid out by Deverdun in 1959, based on a number of arguments and lines of evidence.


Beginnings under Abdallah al-Ghalib

The necropolis has two major structures: one to the east, surrounded by gardens on either side, and one to the west, next to the visitor entrance today. The eastern mausoleum was the first to be built, starting out as a simple square chamber adjoining the southern wall of the Kasbah Mosque. It is believed that this first mausoleum was built by the second Saadian sultan of Marrakesh, Moulay Abdallah al-Ghalib, between 1557 and 1574. Al-Ghalib was already a prolific builder throughout his reign and it seems he wished to erect a mausoleum to honor his father Muhammad al-Shaykh, the founder of the dynasty, who was killed in 1557 and buried here in what was probably a simple grave. Before Muhammad al-Shaykh some Saadians – most notably al-Qai'm, the dynasty's founder, and
Ahmad al-Araj Ahmed al-Araj ( 1517 – 1544) (b. 1486 – d. 1557) was a ruler of the Saadi Dynasty, he became Emir of Marrakesh when he conquered the city in 1524. Some sources refer to him as Sultan of Marrakesh. Ahmed was a son of Abu Abdallah al-Qaim bi A ...
and his sons – had been buried in the Zawiya of al-Jazuli and its adjoining cemetery in the city. Al-Ghalib himself was eventually buried next to his father in 1574, in the new mausoleum he had built. A dedicatory marble inscription panel was placed on the wall at the head of his tomb, but this panel was later moved (at an unknown date and for unknown reasons) to the Chamber of the Three Niches in the later western building. It is probable (but unconfirmed) that the fourth Saadian sultan, Abd al-Malik, was also buried next to Muhammad al-Shaykh (also his father), on the south side of the latter's tomb, in 1578 or after.


Expansion under Ahmad al-Mansur

The next building phase took place during the reign of
Ahmad al-Mansur Ahmad al-Mansur ( ar, أبو العباس أحمد المنصور, Ahmad Abu al-Abbas al-Mansur, also al-Mansur al-Dahabbi (the Golden), ar, أحمد المنصور الذهبي; and Ahmed al-Mansour; 1549 in Fes – 25 August 1603, Fes) was t ...
, another of Muhammad al-Shaykh's sons and the most powerful and wealthy of the Saadian sultans, between 1578 and 1603. When al-Mansur's mother, Lalla Mas'uda, a wife of Muhammad al-Shaykh, died in 1591, he decided to have her buried within the same mausoleum chamber as that of his father. It was most likely on this occasion, or slightly after, that al-Mansur decided to modify and expand this mausoleum. He allegedly redid the decoration of the existing chamber, and added two rectangular
loggia In architecture, a loggia ( , usually , ) is a covered exterior gallery or corridor, usually on an upper level, but sometimes on the ground level of a building. The outer wall is open to the elements, usually supported by a series of columns ...
rooms on its eastern and western sides. He also created a much larger rectangular chamber (the so-called Grand Chamber) on the southern side, connected directly to the other three rooms. It's possible that al-Mansur intended this larger chamber to house his own tomb. At some point, he probably also commissioned two more dedicatory marble inscription panels to be placed at the heads of the tombs of his father (Muhammad al-Shaykh ) and his mother (Lalla Mas'uda). Again for unknown reasons and at an uncertain date, Muhammad al-Shaykh's dedicatory panel was moved to the western building and placed on the back wall of the Chamber of the Twelve Columns, where it is still visible today. The panel dedicated to Lalla Mas'uda has remained next to her grave (although it may have been moved around too). At some point during al-Mansur's expansion and embellishment of the eastern mausoleum, between 1591 and 1598 (or before 1603 at latest), he decided to abandon this work and embarked on the construction of an entirely new building to the west. This new mausoleum was clearly intended for his own burial. The building was divided into three chambers, from south to north: the Chamber of the Mihrab (a prayer room, not originally meant to house any tombs), the Chamber of the Twelve Columns (a regal tomb chamber for himself), and the Chamber of the Three Niches (an annex to the main chamber). The first person to be buried in this building was probably one of al-Mansur's wives, Mahalla bint Omar al-Marin, in 1598, in a spot close to the eventual tomb of her husband in the Chamber of the Twelve Columns. Ahmad al-Mansur himself was buried in the center of this chamber upon his death in 1603. Some of the decoration in the Chamber of the Mihrab may have been left unfinished after his death. After al-Mansur, a number of other family members, including his successors, were buried in this chamber with him. Among the more important ones, the first was another of his wives, Lalla Aisha as-Shabaniyya, in 1623. Then it was their son, Sultan Moulay Zidan, in 1627, followed by Sultan Abd al-Malik II in 1631 and Sultan Muhammad al-Shaykh al-Saghir in 1653–54. Today, Moulay Zidan's epitaph is immediately to the right of his father's while to the left is Muhammad al-Shaykh al-Saghir. The ornate tombstones (of a type called ''mqabriya'') over these five important royal family members (i.e. al-Mansur, Lalla Aisha as-Shabaniyya, Zidan, Abd al-Malik II, and al-Shaykh al-Saghir) are also the largest and finest in the mausoleum, carved in
Carrara marble Carrara marble, Luna marble to the Romans, is a type of white or blue-grey marble popular for use in sculpture and building decor. It has been quarried since Roman times in the mountains just outside the city of Carrara in the province of Massa ...
. Their strong similarity in style and craftsmanship has been argued as evidence that they were created by the same artisan or workshop of artisans between 1603 and 1655, with the ''mqabriya''s of the first two (al-Mansur and Lalla Aisha as-Shabaniyya) probably being commissioned by their son Moulay Zidan and then serving as models for the other three tombstones made later. A number of other lesser royal family members are scattered around the chamber.


After the Saadians

The necropolis continued to be used as a burial place for some time after al-Mansur's death. The 'Alawi sultan Moulay Isma'il (ruled 1672–1727), who plundered the Saadian palaces, later restricted access to the Saadian necropolis by sealing it off from most of the surrounding buildings. Nonetheless, it continued to be used even in the 'Alawi period, as evidenced by the profusion of graves and tombstones scattered around the cemetery today. The large rectangular chamber (or Grand Chamber) on the southern side of Muhammad al-Shaykh's and Lalla Mas'uda's mausoleum was filled with other tombs. The Chamber of the Mihrab, the southern chamber of Ahmad al-Mansur's construction which was intended to be used merely as a prayer room, was used as a mausoleum by the 'Alawi dynasty up until at least the late 18th century. It is now filled entirely with the graves of 'Alawi family members. One of these graves is reputedly that of the 'Alawi sultan Moulay al-Yazid (died 1792), which was previously marked off by a wooden balustrade and which was sometimes visited by local pilgrims. Moulay al-Yazid's name is now also associated with the Kasbah Mosque and with the square in front of it. In total, the necropolis now contains 56 tombstones marked with ''mqabriya''s (ornate marble epitaphs) and another hundred or so tombs marked simply with multicolored tiles.


Modern times

Eventually, the necropolis was isolated from the surrounding streets and fell out of use. In 1917 they were "rediscovered" by the ''Service des Beaux-Arts, Antiquités et Monuments historiques'' ("Service of Fine Arts, Antiquities, and Historic Monuments") of Morocco, an official body created in 1912 with the beginning of the French Protectorate over Morocco. By then, the tombs were in state of severe disrepair, and from 1917 onward the Service carried out a careful restoration process. Missing parts of the decoration were restored by using surviving parts as a model. The work also opened up the site to the general public for the first time. From the 1920s onward the tombs became the object of study by scholars. Today, they have become a major tourist attraction in Marrakesh.


Architecture and layout

The necropolis is a large garden cemetery enclosed by a rampart to the south and by the wall of the Kasbah Mosque to the north. Inside this are two main buildings: one on the western edge of the cemetery (on the left as visitors enter) and the other further east, surrounded by the cemetery gardens. The gardens are filled with graves covered by colourful tiles. The mausoleums are constructed in the Moorish or western Islamic style that developed in this region over the previous centuries. The decorative techniques seen in the buildings of the preceding Marinid and Nasrid dynasties – who ruled in Morocco and
al-Andalus Al-Andalus translit. ; an, al-Andalus; ast, al-Ándalus; eu, al-Andalus; ber, ⴰⵏⴷⴰⵍⵓⵙ, label= Berber, translit=Andalus; ca, al-Àndalus; gl, al-Andalus; oc, Al Andalús; pt, al-Ândalus; es, al-Ándalus () was the M ...
(southern Spain), respectively – are repeated here.


The eastern mausoleum

The eastern building of the necropolis is the older of the two main buildings in the necropolis. It is often referred to as the Qubba of Lalla Mas'uda (''
qubba A ''qubba'' ( ar, قُبَّة, translit=qubba(t), pl. ''qubāb''), also transliterated as ḳubba, kubbet and koubba, is a cupola or domed structure, typically a tomb or shrine in Islamic architecture. In many regions, such as North Africa, the ...
'' being an
Arabic Arabic (, ' ; , ' or ) is a Semitic language spoken primarily across the Arab world.Semitic languages: an international handbook / edited by Stefan Weninger; in collaboration with Geoffrey Khan, Michael P. Streck, Janet C. E.Watson; Walter ...
word for a mausoleum, usually domed). It consists of a small central square chamber (the so-called Chamber of Lalla Mas'uda), two rectangular loggia rooms on either side to the east and west, and a large rectangular chamber to the south (the so-called Grand Chamber) which connects directly to all three. In addition to the two loggias which open onto the gardens, there is an opening (a door or a former window) on the southern side of the large southern chamber. This unusual and almost symmetrical layout is believed to be the result of at least two different construction phases: a square mausoleum originally erected over the tomb of Muhammad al-Shaykh by Moulay Abdallah al-Ghalib and an expansion by Ahmad al-Mansur which added the other chambers around it (see history section above). The bulk of the building is built in brick. The decoration, also believed to be from al-Mansur's time, is of high quality throughout, even though some scholars believe the decoration was left unfinished when Ahmad al-Mansur stopped working on this building and began constructing the western mausoleum.


The Chamber of Lalla Mas'uda

The central chamber is also sometimes referred to as the Chamber of Lalla Mas'uda. It is believed to be the oldest structure in the necropolis, a relatively small mausoleum erected by Moulay Abdallah al-Ghalib between 1557 and 1574 over the tomb of his father, Muhammad al-Shaykh, the founder of the dynasty. Today it contains the tomb of Muhammad al-Shaykh, Lalla Mas'uda (a wife of al-Shaykh and mother of Ahmad al-Mansur), al-Ghalib himself, and possibly also Sultan Abd al-Malik (another son of al-Shaykh who ruled between 1576 and 1578). The chamber is square, measuring 4 meters per side. The chamber is covered by a
vault Vault may refer to: * Jumping, the act of propelling oneself upwards Architecture * Vault (architecture), an arched form above an enclosed space * Bank vault, a reinforced room or compartment where valuables are stored * Burial vault (enclosure ...
of very fine and intricate ''
muqarnas Muqarnas ( ar, مقرنص; fa, مقرنس), also known in Iranian architecture as Ahoopāy ( fa, آهوپای) and in Iberian architecture as Mocárabe, is a form of ornamented vaulting in Islamic architecture. It is the archetypal form of I ...
'' (honeycomb or stalactite-like sculpting) made of stucco which retains a part of its
polychrome Polychrome is the "practice of decorating architectural elements, sculpture, etc., in a variety of colors." The term is used to refer to certain styles of architecture, pottery or sculpture in multiple colors. Ancient Egypt Colossal statu ...
painting in blue and gold (among other colours). The surfaces of the tiny niches in the ''muqarnas'' composition alternate between plain surfaces and surfaces carved with Moroccan/Andalusi
arabesque The arabesque is a form of artistic decoration consisting of "surface decorations based on rhythmic linear patterns of scrolling and interlacing foliage, tendrils" or plain lines, often combined with other elements. Another definition is "Foli ...
motifs. The upper walls of the chamber are covered in intricate stucco decoration as well, in the form of arabesque and geometric compositions, while the lower walls are covered in ''
zellij ''Zellij'' ( ar, الزليج, translit=zillīj; also spelled zillij or zellige) is a style of mosaic tilework made from individually hand-chiseled tile pieces. The pieces were typically of different colours and fitted together to form various pa ...
'' tile mosaics with geometric star patterns. Between these two parts are bands of Arabic inscriptions in both stucco and tilework. The floor is also covered in zellij paving (although in generally simpler motifs). On the chamber's northern side is a niche, resembling a '' mihrab'', covered by its own canopy of ''muqarnas''. This niche contains the tomb of Lalla Mas'uda. On the lower western wall of the niche is a carved marble panel with a dedicatory text to Lalla Mas'uda. The panel is the best preserved piece of its kind in the whole necropolis, thanks in part to the fact that it was originally protected by wooden shutters. In addition to its rich carvings, it retains hints of former red paint. File:Saadian tombs view into Chamber of Lalla MasudaIMG 3530.jpg, View towards the Chamber of Lalla Mas'uda, through the doorway from the southern chamber File:Marrakech mausoleos sadíes. 07.jpg, The niche over the tomb of Lalla Mas'uda. The dedicatory marble inscription is visible at the bottom. File:Marrakech mausoleos sadíes. 05 (edited).jpg, The ''
muqarnas Muqarnas ( ar, مقرنص; fa, مقرنس), also known in Iranian architecture as Ahoopāy ( fa, آهوپای) and in Iberian architecture as Mocárabe, is a form of ornamented vaulting in Islamic architecture. It is the archetypal form of I ...
'' ceiling over the chamber File:Detail of the Saadian tombs 1102.jpg, Detail of the ''muqarnas'' of the niche over Lalla Mas'uda's tomb File:Μαυσωλείο των Σααντί 1063.jpg, View towards the Chamber of Lalla Mas'uda from the eastern loggia File:Saadian Tombs (5038327109).jpg, Detail of the stucco archway into the Chamber of Lalla Mas'uda from the eastern loggia


The Grand Chamber

Lalla Masu'da's chamber connects to the large rectangular chamber to the south through a doorway crowned by an intricate stucco arch with ''muqarnas''
intrados An arch is a vertical curved structure that spans an elevated space and may or may not support the weight above it, or in case of a horizontal arch like an arch dam, the hydrostatic pressure against it. Arches may be synonymous with vault ...
(inner surfaces of the arch), which in turn is surrounded by some of the highest-quality stucco carving. The upper walls of this chamber are mostly bare but the lower walls feature zellij tilework with even more complex 16-sided star patterns. The chamber is covered by a ''berchla'' roof (a Moroccan wooden framework ceiling with particular stylistic geometric arrangements) with remnants of its former colours. The floor is covered in tilework again along with various tombs. The chamber measures 10 by 6 meters. File:0063 SAADIER-GRÄBER, Marrakesch (36548736594).jpg, View of the Grand Chamber. In the center is the ''muqarnas'' archway leading to the mausoleum of Muhammad al-Shaykh and Lalla Mas'uda. File:Saadian Tombs grand chamber ceiling DSCF0017.jpg, View of the ''berchla'' wood-frame ceiling File:Μαυσωλείο των Σααντί 1077.jpg, Some of the tombs along the floor of the chamber


The loggias

On either side of the mausoleum are small rectangular chambers (4 by 2 meters) that open to the outside through richly-decorated
loggia In architecture, a loggia ( , usually , ) is a covered exterior gallery or corridor, usually on an upper level, but sometimes on the ground level of a building. The outer wall is open to the elements, usually supported by a series of columns ...
s. The eastern loggia room has doorways opening onto both the central mausoleum chamber (via another intricate archway) and the southern Grand Chamber, while the western loggia connects only to the southern chamber. The loggias are triple-arched: a
cedar wood Cedar is part of the English common name of many trees and other plants, particularly those of the genus ''Cedrus''. Some botanical authorities consider the Old-World ''Cedrus'' the only "true cedars". Many other species worldwide with similarl ...
canopy forms an arch resting on stucco-carved pillars that in turn rest on marble columns, with smaller ''muqarnas''-carved arches crossing the space between the columns and the main walls of the structure. The wooden canopies feature a band carved with cartouches of
Arabic calligraphy Arabic calligraphy is the artistic practice of handwriting and calligraphy based on the Arabic alphabet. It is known in Arabic as ''khatt'' ( ar, خط), derived from the word 'line', 'design', or 'construction'. Kufic is the oldest form of t ...
featuring a
Qur'anic The Quran (, ; Standard Arabic: , Quranic Arabic: , , 'the recitation'), also romanized Qur'an or Koran, is the central religious text of Islam, believed by Muslims to be a revelation from God. It is organized in 114 chapters (pl.: , sing. ...
verse from the ''
Surah A ''surah'' (; ar, سورة, sūrah, , ), is the equivalent of "chapter" in the Qur'an. There are 114 ''surahs'' in the Quran, each divided into '' ayats'' (verses). The chapters or ''surahs'' are of unequal length; the shortest surah (''Al-Ka ...
al-Ahzab''. The stucco carvings are again very fine and feature a variety of motifs. A band of stucco featuring a star-like pattern runs around the rest of the building on the outside, just below the wooden roof.


The western mausoleum

The western mausoleum building is divided into three chambers: the Chamber of the Mihrab, the Chamber of the Twelve Columns, and the Chamber of the Three Niches. It is believed to date entirely from the reign of Ahmad al-Mansur, though it contains many tombs from after his time as well.


Chamber of the Mihrab

The southernmost chamber was intended to be a small mosque or prayer room, which is why it features a '' mihrab'' on its south/southeast wall. In
Islamic architecture Islamic architecture comprises the architectural styles of buildings associated with Islam. It encompasses both secular and religious styles from the early history of Islam to the present day. The Islamic world encompasses a wide geographic ...
the ''mihrab'' is a niche or alcove symbolizing the ''
qibla The qibla ( ar, قِبْلَة, links=no, lit=direction, translit=qiblah) is the direction towards the Kaaba in the Sacred Mosque in Mecca, which is used by Muslims in various religious contexts, particularly the direction of prayer for the ...
'' (the direction of prayer). The ''mihrab'' here resembles that of the Ben Youssef Madrasa (also Saadian in origin): a
horseshoe arch The horseshoe arch (; Spanish: "arco de herradura"), also called the Moorish arch and the keyhole arch, is an emblematic arch of Islamic architecture, especially Moorish architecture. Horseshoe arches can take rounded, pointed or lobed form. Hi ...
surrounded by elaborate stucco decoration and hiding a small ''muqarnas'' cupola inside. The decoration of the lower parts of the ''mihrab'', however, appears to have been left unfinished: the outlines of a pattern have been traced but they have not been filled-in and carved. This is believed to be due to Ahmad al-Mansur dying before the decoration was completely finished and his successors lacking the will or the resources to finish it. A total of 8 engaged columns, made out of veined marble, are arranged around the base of the ''mihrab''. The rest of the chamber is a large rectangular space marked by four columns supporting arches. The columns and the arches split the upper space of the chamber into 9 rectangular areas, with each division having its own wooden ceiling with star patterns. The ceiling in front of the ''mihrab'', however, is different and instead features a large pyramid-shaped vault of intricate ''muqarnas'' (similar in style to the ceiling of the Chamber of Lalla Mas'uda). Since the vault has a square outline, it transitions into the rectangular space with two more sloped surfaces of ''muqarnas'' on either side. This mosque chamber was originally the only entrance into the building. The central mausoleum of al-Mansur (the Chamber of Twelve Columns) is entered via another ornate ''muqarnas'' archway directly opposite the ''mihrab''. Nowadays, however, the floor of the chamber is covered with the tombs of family members of the 'Alawi dynasty, as well as, reputedly, the tomb of the 'Alawi sultan Moulay al-Yazid. As a result, visitors are generally not allowed to walk inside. File:Saadian Tombs left room.JPG, View of the Chamber of the Mihrab (the '' mihrab'' is on the left) File:Saadian Tombs Chamber of the Mihrab doorway DSCF0171.jpg, The doorway from the Chamber of the Mihrab to the Chamber of the Twelve Columns File:Roof of Saadi tombs 1037.jpg, The ceilings over the Chamber of the Mihrab File:Saadian Tombs Chamber of the Mihrab mihrab close-up DSCF0189.jpg, Close-up of the ''mihrab'' File:Saadian Tombs Chamber of the Mihrab muqarnas DSCF0199.jpg, Partial view of the ''muqarnas'' vault in front of the ''mihrab'' File:Saadian Tombs (5038322655).jpg, 'Alawi tombs in the chamber


Chamber of the Twelve Columns (Mausoleum of Ahmad al-Mansur)

This is the grand mausoleum chamber of Ahmad al-Mansur and the most richly decorated chamber in the entire necropolis, generally considered the highlight of the complex. Its layout follows a previously established plan seen at the Mausoleum of Sidi Yusuf ibn Ali in Marrakech (built by Moulay Abdallah al-Ghalib) and in the remains of the ''rawda'' cemetery at the Alhambra of Granada. The chamber is square, measuring 10 meters per side and rising 12 meters high. A slightly smaller square is formed within the chamber by the twelve columns of Carrara marble symmetrically arranged in groups of three around the center of the room. The capitals of the marble columns have simple profiles but are covered in high-relief vegetal or arabesque carvings. What is more exceptional is that each group of three columns supports two small ''muqarnas'' arches which are also made out of marble (instead of the usual wood or stucco) and yet appear as intricately carved as the other elements in the room. The space between the column groups is spanned by wider ''muqarnas'' arches carved in stucco, but the consoles or corbels on which their bases rest are also made out of marble. Overall, the craftsmen who built the chamber took great care to make the transition from marble to stucco nearly imperceptible, so that the two highly different materials seem to blend naturally together. The use of red paint to highlight the stucco forms is still visible in many areas. The elaborate cedar wood ceilings of the chamber are also high achievements of Moroccan and Saadian art. Because of the square-within-a-square layout and the arches springing from the corners of the inner square, there is one large ceiling in the center and eight smaller square and rectangular ceilings around it. The central wood-frame ceiling is shaped like a square dome or
cupola In architecture, a cupola () is a relatively small, most often dome-like, tall structure on top of a building. Often used to provide a lookout or to admit light and air, it usually crowns a larger roof or dome. The word derives, via Italian, fro ...
and is covered in a star pattern. Both the shape and the pattern are similar to, but less extensive than, the famous ceiling of the Hall of Ambassadors in the Alhambra palace. Below the cupola itself is a transitional zone of wood-carved ''muqarnas'', and below this are two bands of painted decoration with arabesque motifs and Arabic calligraphic inscriptions. The rectangular ceilings along the sides of the chamber are flat but feature more geometric motifs as well as miniature cupolas of ''muqarnas''. Lastly, the smaller square ceilings in the corners of the chamber are full ''muqarnas'' cupolas. The upper bands of wood running just below the ceilings here are also decorated with arch motifs as well as Kufic Arabic motifs. The ceilings are all painted in predominantly red and gold colours, still preserved today. The surfaces of the chamber walls are covered in carved stucco as well as the more usual zellij tiling along their lower parts. At the very center of the room is the tombstone of Ahmad al-Mansur. To his immediate right (from the perspective of present-day visitors seeing the room) is the tombstone of his son, Sultan Moulay Zidan (died 1627), and to his immediate left is the tombstone of Sultan Muhammad al-Shaykh al-Saghir (died 1654–55). Also in this room are the tombs of al-Mansur's wife, Lalla Aisha as-Shabaniyya (died 1623) and of Sultan Abd al-Malik II (died 1631). All of their tombstones, of a type called a ''mqabriya'', consist of an elongated marble bloc carved with
Arabic Arabic (, ' ; , ' or ) is a Semitic language spoken primarily across the Arab world.Semitic languages: an international handbook / edited by Stefan Weninger; in collaboration with Geoffrey Khan, Michael P. Streck, Janet C. E.Watson; Walter ...
epitaphs on arabesque backgrounds. The ''mqabriya''s of these five Saadians are particularly large and ornate, and are believed to have been made by the same workshop of artisans. The lesser tombstones of other dynasty members are scattered around the room. Curiously, the marble inscription plaque embedded in the back wall of the chamber is dedicated to Muhammad al-Shaykh (who is buried in the other mausoleum across the gardens to the east), and was apparently moved here from his tombstone in the eastern mausoleum. Why or when it was moved here is unknown. Today, since the original entrance via the Chamber of the Mihrab is off-limits, visitors enter to the edge of the chamber via an opening in the eastern wall of the mausoleum, directly from the outside. This opening was originally only a window, similar to windows found in the outer walls of other shrines in Morocco where Muslim pedestrians on the street are able to offer prayers or gifts to the deceased without having to enter the sanctuary. File:Saadian tombs room of twelve columns2.JPG, Chamber of the Twelve Columns; the middle tombstone is that of Ahmad al-Mansur File:Roof of Saadian Tombs 1052.jpg, View of the chamber's ceiling, with glimpse of the central ceiling in particular File:Mausoleos sadíes. 10.jpg, One of the rectangular ceilings along the sides of the chamber File:Saadian Tombs (6858199831).jpg, Details of the marble and stucco elements blending together in the corners of the chamber File:Grabmäler der Saadier 07.jpg, The back wall of the mausoleum chamber File:Saadian Tombs inscription plaque of Muhammad al-Shaykh DSCF0253.jpg, The marble inscription panel dedicated to Muhammad al-Shaykh (inexplicably moved here at an unknown date)


Chamber of the Three Niches

The Chamber of the Three Niches is an annex to the main mausoleum chamber and houses more tombs, including an epitaph attesting to the first (temporary) burial of the Marinid sultan Abu al-Hasan in 1341 (presumably transferred here after the Saadian construction). Another marble inscription plaque, this time belonging to Moulay Abdallah al-Ghalib, is embedded in one of the walls of the chamber here. Once again, it is unknown why or when this plaque was moved from its original location (at the head of Abdallah's tomb in the eastern mausoleum) to here. The chamber is accessed from the Chamber of the Twelve Columns via two side openings in the northern wall of the latter. The layout of the chamber is simpler and its ceilings are also less elaborate. However, its walls are covered in some of the most intricate stucco carvings of the complex, featuring a variety of arabesque, geometric, and epigraphic/calligraphic motifs.


Notable burials

The following individuals are buried in the necropolis. As the necropolis contains well over a hundred graves of varying importance, this list is only partial. Some individuals are believed to be buried here due to some historical evidence, but their tombs have not always been clearly identified (noted as "unconfirmed" below). Eastern mausoleum: * Muhammad al-Shaykh (d. 1557): first Saadian sultan to rule a unified Morocco, after defeating the
Wattasid dynasty The Wattasid dynasty ( ber, Iweṭṭasen; ar, الوطاسيون, ''al-waṭṭāsīyūn'') was a ruling dynasty of Morocco. Like the Marinid dynasty, its rulers were of Zenata Berber descent. The two families were related, and the Marinids re ...
. *
Abdallah al-Ghalib Abdallah al-Ghalib Billah (; b. 1517 – d. 22 January 1574, 1557–1574) was the second Saadian sultan of Morocco. He succeeded his father Mohammed al-Shaykh as Sultan of Morocco. Biography Early life With his first wife Sayyida Rabia, M ...
(d. 1574): second sultan, son of Muhammad al-Shaykh, fought the Ottomans in Wadi Al-Laban. * Abd al-Malik I (unconfirmed, d. 1578): fourth sultan, son of Muhammad al-Shaykh, fought the
Portuguese Portuguese may refer to: * anything of, from, or related to the country and nation of Portugal ** Portuguese cuisine, traditional foods ** Portuguese language, a Romance language *** Portuguese dialects, variants of the Portuguese language ** Portu ...
in the
Battle of Alcácer Quibir The Battle of Alcácer Quibir (also known as "Battle of Three Kings" ( ar, معركة الملوك الثلاثة) or "Battle of Wadi al-Makhazin" ( ar, معركة وادي المخازن) in Morocco) was fought in northern Morocco, near the t ...
. * Lalla Mas'uda (d. 1591): political figure, mother of Ahmad al-Mansur. Western mausoleum: *
Ahmad al-Mansur Ahmad al-Mansur ( ar, أبو العباس أحمد المنصور, Ahmad Abu al-Abbas al-Mansur, also al-Mansur al-Dahabbi (the Golden), ar, أحمد المنصور الذهبي; and Ahmed al-Mansour; 1549 in Fes – 25 August 1603, Fes) was t ...
(d. 1603): fifth sultan, longest-reigning Saadian, son of Muhammad ash-Shaykh, defeated the
Songhai Empire The Songhai Empire (also transliterated as Songhay) was a state that dominated the western Sahel/Sudan in the 15th and 16th century. At its peak, it was one of the largest states in African history. The state is known by its historiographical ...
and expanded south forming the
Pashalik of Timbuktu The Pashalik of Timbuktu was a West African political entity that existed between the 16th and the 19th century. It was formed after the Battle of Tondibi, when a military expedition sent by Saadian sultan Ahmad al-Mansur of Morocco defeated t ...
. * Lalla Aisha as-Shabaniyya (d. 1623): a wife of Ahmad al-Mansur and mother of Moulay Zidan. * Moulay Zidan (d. 1627): son of Ahmad al-Mansur, ruler of Marrakesh during most of the succession war (1603–1627). * Abd al-Malik II (d. 1631): first ruler of unified Saadian realm after the succession war, son of Moulay Zidan. * Muhammad al-Shaykh al-Saghir (d. 1655): longest-reigning sultan after the succession war, son of Moulay Zidan. Chamber of the Mihrab (attached to western mausoleum): * Moulay al-Yazid (unconfirmed, d. 1792): Nineteenth 'Alawi sultan, son of Mohammed III.


Influence and legacy

Scholars generally view the design and decoration of the Saadian Tombs as strongly and clearly embedded in the artistic traditions of earlier Andalusi and
Moroccan architecture Moroccan architecture refers to the architecture characteristic of Morocco throughout its history and up to modern times. The country's diverse geography and long history, marked by successive waves of settlers through both migration and military ...
(or "Hispano-Moorish" art). Some, such as
Georges Marçais Georges Marçais ( Rennes, 11 March 1876 – Paris, 20 May 1962) was a French orientalist, historian, and scholar of Islamic art and architecture who specialized in the architecture of North Africa. Biography He initially trained as a painter ...
, even refer to Saadian art more generally as a "renaissance" of this style, before its relative decline in the following centuries. In addition to the use and continued elaboration of decorative techniques from the Marinid era of Morocco, the Saadian Tombs also suggest an influence from Nasrid antecedents in Granada, Spain. The layout of the Chamber of the Twelve Columns, for example, is similar to the layout of the ''rawda'' mausoleum in the Alhambra and was later repeated in the Mausoleum of Moulay Isma'il in
Meknes Meknes ( ar, مكناس, maknās, ; ber, ⴰⵎⴽⵏⴰⵙ, amknas; french: Meknès) is one of the four Imperial cities of Morocco, located in northern central Morocco and the sixth largest city by population in the kingdom. Founded in the 11th c ...
during the 'Alawi period. Other Nasrid influences in Saadian architecture include the two ornamental ablutions pavilions which Ahmad al-Mansur and
Abdallah al-Ghalib II Abdallah al-Ghalib II was a member of the Saadian dynasty who ruled parts of Morocco during the succession conflicts within the dynasty between 1603 and 1627. He was the son of Muhammad al-Sheikh al-Ma'mun, who was in turn the son of the powerfu ...
added to the courtyard of the
Qarawiyyin Mosque The University of al-Qarawiyyin ( ar, جامعة القرويين; ber, ⵜⴰⵙⴷⴰⵡⵉⵜ ⵏ ⵍⵇⴰⵕⴰⵡⵉⵢⵉⵏ; french: Université Al Quaraouiyine), also written Al-Karaouine or Al Quaraouiyine, is a university located in ...
in
Fes Fez or Fes (; ar, فاس, fās; zgh, ⴼⵉⵣⴰⵣ, fizaz; french: Fès) is a city in northern inland Morocco and the capital of the Fès-Meknès administrative region. It is the second largest city in Morocco, with a population of 1.11 mi ...
, which strongly resemble the two pavilions in the
Court of the Lions The Court of the Lions ( es, Patio de los Leones; ar, بهو السباع) or Palace of the Lions ( es, Palacio de los Leones) is a palace in the heart of the Alhambra, a historic citadel formed by a complex of palaces, gardens and forts in Grana ...
at the Alhambra. The Saadian Tombs are frequently regarded as the high benchmark of Moroccan art and architecture in the Saadian period and in the post-medieval period generally, thanks to its extremely rich decoration and its "rational" arrangement of interior space. Shortly after they were "rediscovered" and made accessible to the public by
French colonial French colonial architecture includes several styles of architecture used by the French during colonization. Many former French colonies, especially those in Southeast Asia, have previously been reluctant to promote their colonial architectur ...
authorities in 1917, they were praised by many contemporary art historians and observers who visited them. At the same time, many (
Western Western may refer to: Places *Western, Nebraska, a village in the US *Western, New York, a town in the US *Western Creek, Tasmania, a locality in Australia *Western Junction, Tasmania, a locality in Australia *Western world, countries that id ...
) scholars still view the Saadian period as the beginning of a decline or of a "conservative" period in Moroccan art and architecture, during which existing styles were faithfully reproduced and imitated but few innovations were introduced.


See also

* El Badi Palace * Shrob ou shouf fountain


References


External links


Images of the Saadian Tombs
on Manar al-Athar digital photo archive {{Marrakesh Buildings and structures in Marrakesh Saadian architecture Moroccan culture History of Marrakesh Mausoleums in Morocco Burial sites of the Saadi dynasty Tourist attractions in Marrakesh Tombs in Morocco