Redbraes Castle
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Marchmont House lies on the east side of the small village of Greenlaw, and near to a church in Polwarth in
Berwickshire Berwickshire ( gd, Siorrachd Bhearaig) is a historic county, registration county and lieutenancy area in south-eastern Scotland, on the English border. Berwickshire County Council existed from 1890 until 1975, when the area became part of th ...
, in the
Scottish Borders The Scottish Borders ( sco, the Mairches, 'the Marches'; gd, Crìochan na h-Alba) is one of 32 council areas of Scotland. It borders the City of Edinburgh, Dumfries and Galloway, East Lothian, Midlothian, South Lanarkshire, West Lothi ...
area of
Scotland Scotland (, ) is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Covering the northern third of the island of Great Britain, mainland Scotland has a border with England to the southeast and is otherwise surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean to the ...
. It is about five miles (8 km) south west of
Duns Duns may refer to: * Duns, Scottish Borders, a town in Berwickshire, Scotland ** Duns railway station ** Duns F.C., a football club ** Duns RFC, a rugby football club ** Battle of Duns, an engagement fought in 1372 * Duns Scotus ( 1265/66–1308) ...
, about west of
Berwick-upon-Tweed Berwick-upon-Tweed (), sometimes known as Berwick-on-Tweed or simply Berwick, is a town and civil parish in Northumberland, England, south of the Anglo-Scottish border, and the northernmost town in England. The 2011 United Kingdom census recor ...
and about south east of
Edinburgh Edinburgh ( ; gd, Dùn Èideann ) is the capital city of Scotland and one of its 32 Council areas of Scotland, council areas. Historically part of the county of Midlothian (interchangeably Edinburghshire before 1921), it is located in Lothian ...
. Situated in a gently undulating landscape, the estate is intersected by
Blackadder Water Blackadder Water () is a river in Berwickshire in the Scottish Borders area of Scotland, forming part of the River Tweed system. It reached 2.84m at Mouthbridge, which was its highest level ever recorded on Tuesday 22 October 2002 at 2:45pm. Ety ...
, and its tributary burns. With the
Lammermuir Hills The Lammermuirs are a range of hills in southern Scotland, forming a natural boundary between East Lothian and the Borders. The name "Lammermuir" comes from the Old English ''lambra mōr'', meaning "moorland of the lambs". Geology The Lammer ...
to the north and views towards the Cheviot Hills in the south, this part of Berwickshire, sometimes referred to as the Merse, is very scenic and contains rich and fertile agricultural land.


History

The
Palladian Palladian architecture is a European architectural style derived from the work of the Venetian architect Andrea Palladio (1508–1580). What is today recognised as Palladian architecture evolved from his concepts of symmetry, perspective and ...
house was built by
Hugh Hume-Campbell, 3rd Earl of Marchmont Hugh Hume-Campbell, 3rd Earl of Marchmont PC FRS (15 February 1708 – 10 January 1794), styled Lord Polwarth between 1724 and 1740, was a Scottish politician who sat in the House of Commons from 1734 until 1740 when he succeeded to the peerag ...
, in 1750. His bust, albeit a plaster copy, sits on a wall bracket in the saloon. The original is in
Mellerstain House Mellerstain House is a stately home around north of Kelso in the Borders, Scotland. It is currently the home of the 14th Earl of Haddington, and is a historical monument of Scotland. History The older house or castle at Mellerstain included ...
, another important Borders house that has intimate historical links with Marchmont. Before its completion, the family lived in Redbraes Castle, the diminutive ruins of which can be seen in front of the present house by the steading. At Redbraes lived Sir Patrick Hume of Polwarth, later Patrick Hume, 1st Earl of Marchmont. His portrait by
William Aikman William Aikman may refer to: * William Aikman (painter) William Aikman (24 October 16827 June 1731) was a Scottish portraitist. Life and career Aikman was the son of William Aikman, of Cairney. His father intended that he should follow the l ...
, c 1720, and framed by a
George II George II or 2 may refer to: People * George II of Antioch (seventh century AD) * George II of Armenia (late ninth century) * George II of Abkhazia (916–960) * Patriarch George II of Alexandria (1021–1051) * George II of Georgia (1072–1089) * ...
period gilt mirror, hangs above the chimneypiece in the drawing room. It is not a coincidence that a near identical portrait hangs in the Music Room at Mellerstain. Having been implicated in the
Rye House Plot The Rye House Plot of 1683 was a plan to assassinate King Charles II of England and his brother (and heir to the throne) James, Duke of York. The royal party went from Westminster to Newmarket to see horse races and were expected to make the ...
, Sir Patrick was forced into hiding in the vaults of Polwarth Church, close to the house. His daughter, Lady Grisell Hume, (later
Grizel Baillie Lady Grizel Baillie, ''née'' Hume, (25 December 1665 – 6 December 1746) was a Scottish gentlewoman and songwriter. Her accounting ledgers, in which she kept details about her household for more than 50 years, provide information about soci ...
) smuggled food to him, and her well-trod path from Redbraes to the church became known as ‘Lady’s Walk’. Lady Grisell's life was an epic story of selfless bravery, for which she eventually found reward in a long and happy life. She wrote her memoirs which were handed down to her daughter, who in turn transcribed them for future generations. In them, she tells of the fearful chapters she endured as a young teenager aiding her father and family. Sir Patrick fled to
Holland Holland is a geographical regionG. Geerts & H. Heestermans, 1981, ''Groot Woordenboek der Nederlandse Taal. Deel I'', Van Dale Lexicografie, Utrecht, p 1105 and former province on the western coast of the Netherlands. From the 10th to the 16th c ...
in 1684, again assisted by his daughter, but made a glorious return with King William who reinstated their lands and created Sir Patrick the first Earl of Marchmont in 1697. He was later made Lord Chancellor, and then in 1698 he was elevated to "the highest official position in the kingdom, that of the King's High Commissioner to the Parliament"''Marchmont and the Humes of Polwarth, by One of Their Descendants'', 1894. The king's gratitude was symbolized by his granting Sir Patrick permission to place an orange, bearing the Imperial crown, in his coat of arms. An example of this can be seen clearly on the carved coat of arms on the east gable of Polwarth church restored by, and once a self-imposed prison of, Sir Patrick.


The house, its interior, and development

The family's prosperity in the late 17th century, brought about by the reward of loyalty to the Crown, made it possible for grand ideas of Marchmont House to be conceived. Thoughts of creating an impressive new family seat inspired Alexander, the second Earl, to draw up designs for the landscaping. He also commissioned William Adam to draw up plans for the new house, however these were considered to be too expensive. Both the 2nd Earl and Adam died before the house was started. It was the 3rd Earl, succeeding in 1740, who became responsible for the execution of the new building. It is now understood that it was the lesser known architect Thomas Gibson who designed the house and not Adam. However, the latter's influence was certainly present in the architecture as well as garden design, as was that of the Palladian revival of Lord Burlington, a friend of the Earl of Marchmont. It has been commented that Marchmont's internal arrangement and elevations reflect those at Houghton Hall, Norfolk.Cruft, Dunbar and Fawcett It is also of interest that the second Earl's sister, Lady Grisell, married a Baillie from Mellerstain, where we know that William Adam worked.
The interior is arguably one of the finest in Scotland. Only a trained eye, and one that knows of the architectural history, will notice a difference between the 18th and 20th-century features at Marchmont. Much of the original George II period plasterwork, executed by Thomas Clayton, remains. Clayton was the best plasterer in Scotland of his time and worked for William Adam and others. He worked at many other important houses, including the Drum in Edinburgh, the Duke's Apartments at Holyroodhouse, at
Hamilton Palace Hamilton Palace was a country house in Hamilton, South Lanarkshire, Scotland. The former seat of the Dukes of Hamilton, it dated from the 14th century and was subsequently much enlarged in the 17th and 19th centuries. Clayton's best work can still be seen at Marchmont. The State room, Saloon was decorated between 1753-7 with military trophies on the ceiling and walls and family heraldry above door lintels detailing monograms of the 3rd Earl and his second wife. The Drawing Room is decorated with a scheme that celebrates the rich effect that the power of the sun and the phases of the moon have on nature. The central panel is surrounded by baskets of fruit, flowers, and arable crops. This theme is echoed in the contemporary carved marble chimney piece decorated with the sun's rays seeming to emanate from the heat of the fire. Some alterations to the rear elevation of the house were made in 1834-42 by the architect William Burn. But major changes were made in the early 20th century. The last of the Hume family to live in the house was Sir John Hume Campbell. He sold it to Robert Finnie McEwen, father of Sir John McEwen, 1st Baronet, Captain Sir John Helias Finnie McEwen, who inherited a considerable fortune from his uncles who had built the harbor at Rio de Janeiro. From 1914 -17 he commissioned Robert Lorimer, Sir Robert Lorimer to make various alterations: a top floor was added and given dormer windows in a steeper pitched roof; the flanking pavilions were connected to the house internally; by lowering the ground at the front of the house the entrance was relocated on the ground floor with the addition of a porch, and the former entrance, now the central window of the first-floor saloon, made redundant. Internally the main staircase was removed and successfully replaced by a two-story open internal hall surmounted by an oval cupola, and a new grander staircase was located to the right of the entrance beneath a dome. The dining room and library were swapped so that the latter now overlooks the front of the house. A grand double-storey music room, originally designed by Lorimer for Rowallan Castle, was made out of the stable wing in the north pavilion. It is finely paneled in oak with delicate carving modeled by Louis Deuchars and carved by W. and A. Clow.Cruft, Dunbar, and Fawcett. At the east end of the room is placed a fine full-size organ by Norman and Beard of Norwich, which is still maintained today. The grand music room, one of the focal points of the house, symbolizes McEwen's love of music. We are reminded again of this love for music and that for country sports by 20th-century plaster panels by Thomas Beattie decorating the second floor of the stairwell. An accomplished musician himself, McEwen set poems by Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott to music. The house was sold to Sue Ryder Care for use as a nursing home in the 1980s. It was recently sold to a private owner who has made extensive renovations both to the house and grounds. The music room has seen the organ fully restored and has been the location for public recitals. The top floor includes exquisite accommodation furnished with crafted wood furniture. One of the outbuildings has been converted for the use o
furniture makers
practicing the craft of turned rush-seated ladder-back chairs following the designs of Philip Clissett and Ernest Gimson. Murals have been added to the central space. Group tours are available on a very limited basis by arrangement.


The grounds and outbuildings

Thoughts of replacing the family seat of Redbraes Castle with a new and grand house started long before the foundations were laid. The planting of the Great Avenue was begun in 1726 when 10,000 Dutch elmsHistoric Scotland: Scottish Borders Council
/ref> were ordered to line the avenue which at longMarchmont and the Humes of Polwarth, by One of Their Descendants, 1894. is thought to be the longest in Scotland. Still, in existence (albeit with other trees, mostly beech, planted after the great gales of 1881) it leads northeast from the front of the house and terminates at the Doocot, built in 1749 by James Williamson. There are about of the designed landscape, more or less in the same format as originally laid out. The gardens were originally arranged formally and to the south and south west or rear of the house. The plans can be seen in the first edition OS map of 1857. A ha-ha separates the formal gardens from the deer park to allow a seamless view leading from the tightly arranged garden through into the wilder, but still man-ordered, a policy of the deer park. Here there are many mature trees, some thought to date from the late 18th century. In 1962 the tallest oak in Britain was recorded at Marchmont. Specimen trees surround the gardens and include a fine cut-leaf beech, an arbutus, a Sequoiadendron giganteum, Wellingtonia, Cedrus, cedars and hollies. In the trees, behind the house to the north west, can be seen a pets’ cemetery. Closer inspection shows a neatly laid-out arrangement of 23 headstones bearing the names of fox hounds. Dating from 1866 carved with the name "Spot" to 1891 with "Little Boy", the stones relate to Patrick Hume's three packs of hounds. In addition to the Doocot already mentioned, other interesting constructions are the steading built around a courtyard, which dates to the 17th century; the yard clock dated 1746; the associated but later three-story tower; the arched concrete span over garages, and the William Adam designed balustraded bridge of 1759, which connected the main entrance route from the north (named the Green Ride) to the approach to the house. The walled gardens laid out in the 18th century to the south of the house incorporate a magnificent greenhouse and associated structures built by Mackenzie and Moncur in 1915 after designs attributed to Lorimer.


Berwickshire Railway

The House had a private railway station on the North British Railway's Berwickshire Railway (opened 1863). The railway line ran from Reston, Scottish Borders, Reston to Earlston, joining the East Coast Main Line to the Waverley Line. Marchmont Estate Railway Station was closed to passenger traffic 10 September 1951. Freight continued until 19 July 1965. The station building still stands, currently, a private house and the platform remains.


See also

*Marchmont Estate *List of places in the Scottish Borders *Patrick Hume of Polwarth, Sir Patrick Hume of Polwarth and Redbraes


Notes


References

*Kitty Cruft, John Dunbar and Richard Fawcett, ‘'The Buildings of Scotland:Borders’' Pevsner Architectural Guides, . *''Marchmont and the Humes of Polwarth, by One of Their Descendants 1894'' *''Memoirs of the Lives and Characters of the Right Honourable George Baillie of Jerviswood and of Lady Grisell Baillie, by Their Daughter, Lady Murray of Stanhope''. Edinburgh 1874. * *http://www.rcahms.gov.uk/highlightlorimer.html *http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/index/heritage/


External links


Marchmont House official websiteMarchmont House entry on Historic Houses Association website
*Music for the Marchmont jig: http://www.ukmagic.co.uk/song_scottish/marchmont_house.htm {{coord, 55.7291, -2.4104, type:landmark_region:GB, display=title Houses completed in 1750 Country houses in the Scottish Borders Berwickshire Category A listed buildings in the Scottish Borders Inventory of Gardens and Designed Landscapes John Cunningham buildings