The Petitcodiac River is a river in south-eastern
New Brunswick
New Brunswick (french: Nouveau-Brunswick, , locally ) is one of the thirteen Provinces and territories of Canada, provinces and territories of Canada. It is one of the three Maritime Canada, Maritime provinces and one of the four Atlantic Canad ...
, Canada. Referred to as the "chocolate river" by local tourist businesses, it is characterized by its brown mud floor and brown waters. The river has a meander length of and is located in
Westmorland,
Albert, and
Kings
Kings or King's may refer to:
*Monarchs: The sovereign heads of states and/or nations, with the male being kings
*One of several works known as the "Book of Kings":
**The Books of Kings part of the Bible, divided into two parts
**The ''Shahnameh'' ...
counties, draining a
watershed area of about . The watershed features valleys, ridges, and rolling hills, and is home to a diverse population of terrestrial and aquatic species. Ten named
tributaries join the river in its course toward its mouth in
Shepody Bay. Before the construction of a
causeway in 1968, the river had one of the world's largest
tidal bores, which ranged from in height and moved at . With the opening of the causeway gates in April 2010, the river is flushing itself of ocean silts, and the bore is returning to its former size.
The
Mi'kmaq were the first to settle near the river, and used it as part of a portage route between
Shubenacadie and the village of
Petitcodiac Petitcodiac may refer to:
* Petitcodiac River, a river in the Canadian province of New Brunswick
* Petitcodiac, New Brunswick, a community withon the village of Three Rivers in New Brunswick
* Petitcodiac (electoral district)
Petitcodiac was a ...
, where they had a winter camp.
Acadians from
Port Royal, Nova Scotia colonised the region in 1698, but were
expelled in 1755 during the
Seven Years' War
The Seven Years' War (1756–1763) was a global conflict that involved most of the European Great Powers, and was fought primarily in Europe, the Americas, and Asia-Pacific. Other concurrent conflicts include the French and Indian War (1754– ...
. Acadian resistance fighters in Village-des-Blanchard (now
Hillsborough
Hillsborough may refer to:
Australia
*Hillsborough, New South Wales, a suburb of Lake Macquarie
Canada
*Hillsborough, New Brunswick
*Hillsborough Parish, New Brunswick
* Hillsborough, Nova Scotia, in Inverness County
*Hillsborough (electoral d ...
) fought under the command of French leader
Charles Deschamps de Boishébert in the
Battle of Petitcodiac to fend off British troops and suffered the destruction of most of their settlement. The British troops revisited the river three years later and conducted the
Petitcodiac River Campaign. In the 1840s, the
Greater Moncton
Greater Moncton () is a census metropolitan area comprising Moncton, Riverview, and Dieppe in New Brunswick, Canada.
Population
Greater Moncton has a population of 157,717 (2021). Migration is mostly from other areas of New Brunswick (especia ...
area saw a shipbuilding boom, but this was halted following the arrival of the steam train, and forced the town to unincorporate. These changes eventually marginalised the Petitcodiac River.
In 1968, a controversial rock-and-earth fill causeway was built between
Moncton and
Riverview to prevent agricultural flooding and to carry a crossing between the two communities. The causeway caused many problems for the river and its surrounding ecosystem. An estimated of silt was deposited in the 4.7 km (2.9 mi) of river downstream from the causeway in the first three years following construction. The causeway restricted the movement of fish and reduced the region's salmon catches by 82 percent. Water quality has also dropped thanks to industrial expansion around the area. In 2003, Earthwild International designated the Petitcodiac River as the most endangered river in Canada because of these problems. On 14 April 2010, the causeway's gates were opened permanently as part of a $68 million three-phase project designed to restore the river. The causeway was replaced with a bridge, completed in September 2021.
Etymology
A popular belief suggests that the name derives from the French term "''petit coude''", meaning "little elbow". In fact, the name derives from an indigenous word, probably Maliseet or, possibly Mi'kmaq. According to Maliseet Elder and linguist Dr. Peter Paul of Woodstock Reserve, the name refers to a wall of water rushing in: "now they call that ''petakuyak.''
tmeans 'sound of thunder,' well, the rush of water coming in like a thunderstorm." If the term has a
Mi'kmaq origin, it could have been derived from the word ''Petkootkweăk'', meaning "the river that bends like a bow", a reference to the right angle bend near Moncton.
Acadians transformed this to ''Petcoudiac'' or ''Petitcoudiac'', which was modified to ''Petitcodiac'' by British settlers.
The river's heavy sedimentation led to the nickname "Chocolate River", due to the resulting brown tint.
When the Petitcodiac River Causeway was built, an additional of this sediment began to accumulate in the 4.7 km (2.9 mi) of river downstream from it.
Geography
Course
The river measures about from its source near Petitcodiac to its mouth at Shepody Bay; its source derives from the
confluence
In geography, a confluence (also: ''conflux'') occurs where two or more flowing bodies of water join to form a single channel. A confluence can occur in several configurations: at the point where a tributary joins a larger river ( main stem); ...
of the Anagance and North rivers in western
Westmorland County.
[ Watershed Alliance 2009, p. 49] The Anagance River arises from its tributaries, Hayward Brook and Holmes Brook, and drains from the south-east of the Petitcodiac River,
while the North River drains from the north.
From the confluence, the river passes under the bridge on
Route 106 in Petitcodiac, The road then follows the river to Moncton on the left side of the river.
Route 1
The following highways are numbered 1.
For roads numbered A1, see list of A1 roads.
For roads numbered B1, see list of B1 roads.
For roads numbered M1, see List of M1 roads.
For roads numbered N1, see list of N1 roads.
For roads numbered ...
crosses the river a few kilometres downstream to join
Trans-Canada Highway 2.
The community of River Glade precedes Petitcodiac River's right tributary, Pollett River, with a watershed of .
As the waterway runs past Salisbury, its final major right tributary,
[ Riverkeeper 2000, p. 51] Little River (formerly known as Coverdale River),
joins it. Little River's watershed is .
The river passes
Coverdale and is joined by Turtle Creek before widening as it approaches Moncton.
The causeway, built in 1968, formed a wall blocking all but of water as the river flowed downstream toward the
Gunningsville Bridge.
Before the causeway's construction, the river's area would expand through Moncton, attaining a width of 1.6 km (one mile).
A series of banks to both sides precede the 90-degree turn to the south,
a feature that gave Moncton its original name, ''Le Coude'' (The Elbow).
The river passes Dieppe on its eastern side and Hillsborough on its western side before it approaches its mouth.
The Memramcook River, which has a watershed area of joins the Petitcodiac River near its mouth.
The Petitcodiac River then widens and drains into Shepody Bay, where there is a wetland.
Once past the
Hopewell Rocks, Shepody Bay merges with the
Cumberland Basin, which runs south-west toward
Chignecto Bay
Chignecto Bay (french: Baie de Chignectou) is an inlet of the Bay of Fundy located between the Canadian provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia and separated from the waters of the Northumberland Strait by the Isthmus of Chignecto. It is a ...
.
Chignecto Bay drains into the Bay of Fundy, which flows into the
Gulf of Maine, which proceeds south-east into the
Atlantic Ocean
The Atlantic Ocean is the second-largest of the world's five oceans, with an area of about . It covers approximately 20% of Earth#Surface, Earth's surface and about 29% of its water surface area. It is known to separate the "Old World" of Afr ...
through the Northeast Channel.
Watershed
The Petitcodiac River watershed is about . The average yearly precipitation in the watershed is , with average temperatures of in the summer and in the winter.
The watershed is located in the Kings, Westmorland, and Albert counties in south-east New Brunswick, with some of it crossing into the Caledonian Highlands to the south-east.
It borders the Bay of Fundy and three other designated watersheds in the province: the lower
Saint John River to the north-west, the Shediac Bay to the north-east, and the
Kennebecasis River to the south.
Although the Petitcodiac River's watershed is geographically distinct from that of the nearby Memramcook River, some groups merge the two for categorisation purposes.
The area has been occupied by Europeans since the late 17th century.
Moncton's population has grown rapidly since the 19th century, rising from fewer than 100 people in 1825, to over 15,000 people in 1917, and to 126,000 people in 2006.
[ Watershed Alliance 2006, p. 1] In spite of this growth, most of the area remains relatively undisturbed: 80 percent of the watershed is covered with forest,
a tenth is used for agriculture and three percent is occupied by
wetland
A wetland is a distinct ecosystem that is flooded or saturated by water, either permanently (for years or decades) or seasonally (for weeks or months). Flooding results in oxygen-free (anoxic) processes prevailing, especially in the soils. The ...
s. Only four percent of the area is used for commercial, residential, or private usage. Nevertheless, the Petitcodiac Watershed Monitoring Group noted in 2001 that this growth is one of the main factors for the ongoing "environmental degradation" of the river.
Hydrology
Water quality
The Petitcodiac River was listed in 2003 as the most endangered river in Canada by Earthwild International,
and was listed second, behind
Quebec
Quebec ( ; )According to the Government of Canada, Canadian government, ''Québec'' (with the acute accent) is the official name in Canadian French and ''Quebec'' (without the accent) is the province's official name in Canadian English is ...
's
Rupert River, in 2002.
The causeway was cited as one of the major factors behind the river's degraded health.
The
Canadian Council of Ministers of the Environment's Water Quality Index gave two study sites an "excellent" rating, 20 sites a "good" rating, 27 sites a "fair" rating, and five sites a "marginal" rating.
Since 1999, the Petitcodiac Watershed Alliance (known as the Petitcodiac Watershed Monitoring Group at the time) has collected water samples from May to October to study bacteria, nutrient,
pH,
dissolved oxygen (DO), and sediment levels. Two sampling sites, one upstream from the causeway and one downstream, were used during the 2009 study. The river had an average temperature of in August at the upstream location, in contrast to the average of at the same site over the total period of the study.
[ Watershed Alliance 2009, pp. 50–51][ Watershed Alliance 2009, p. 9] ''
E. coli'' levels were high upstream, and above recreationally safe levels downstream in June, July, and August.
Nitrates and
phosphates failed to meet the safe quality threshold on occasion.
A publication by the New Brunswick Department of Environment in 2007 showed that the watershed did not meet the quality guidelines for ''E. coli'' in 10 percent of samples, for dissolved oxygen in 5 percent of samples, and pH in 3 percent of samples; in contrast, the river was always within safe nitrate levels.
During their 2001 study, the Petitcodiac Watershed Alliance noted the effects of agriculture on the river's water quality, and recommended to work with local farmers to install
cattle fencing around streams which run through their properties, and "eventually phase out" cosmetic pesticide usage. The Petitcodiac Riverkeeper holds a stronger position on the issue: the organisation notes that pesticides "find their way into the surface and ground water by leaching into the soil or as part of
stormwater runoff." They request that, while measures have been taken in 2009 by the provincial government to regulate cosmetic pesticide usage, the province must forbid its usage altogether and require chemical manufacturers to disclose health warnings and all ingredients on labels.
[ Riverkeeper 2010, pp. 13–14] The New Brunswick Department of Environment also warned of the erosion caused by the removal of the river's
riparian zones, which is a common "land use practice".
Although mining around the area essentially stopped with the closure of the gypsum mines in 1982,
uranium mining has surfaced as a potential problem for the river.
[ Riverkeeper 2010, pp. 14–15] The province was the subject of a controversy in 2007 when it gave
Vale Limited (formerly known as CVRD Inco) the right to mine for uranium at
Turtle Creek, where the Greater Moncton water reservoir is maintained. Environmentalists warned of the dangers related to the move, fearing that contaminants could be pushed into the surrounding water. The
Petitcodiac Riverkeeper Petitcodiac Riverkeeper is a registered non-profit organization and Riverkeeper group based in Moncton, New Brunswick, eastern Canada. The group's mission is to lead the restoration, protection and promotion of the ecological integrity of the Petit ...
also noted uranium mining's "irreversible effects to the health of ecosystems, watersheds, wildlife, agriculture, recreation, and public health", and joined 30 other environmental groups in asking the provincial government to establish a ban on the act. The province would later restrict uranium mining to from residential areas and ban it from protected drinking water areas.
Another controversy in 2006 involved exploration for oil and gas deposits in the same area, but access was blocked by the municipal government.
Shortly after the building of the causeway, a landfill was built near the river. Various materials were disposed of in the area, including petroleum
waste oil, pipe and foam insulation, sewage sludge, and medical waste. While the landfill was shut down in 1992, samples by the Environmental Bureau of Investigation and the Petitcodiac Riverkeeper showed that ammonium levels around the
leachate exceeded Canadian quality guidelines by as much as 15 times, and contained heavy metals, petroleum hydrocarbons, and
PCB
PCB may refer to:
Science and technology
* Polychlorinated biphenyl, an organic chlorine compound, now recognized as an environmental toxin and classified as a persistent organic pollutant
* Printed circuit board, a board used in electronics
* ...
s. A mortality rate of 100 percent was found for test trout and
daphnia when exposed to water samples. Gemtec Limited, the company responsible for planning and closing the landfill, and the City of Moncton were charged on 12 March 2002, for offences relating to the Canadian Environmental Protection Act (1999) and the Fisheries Act. The city pleaded guilty on 23 September 2003, paid a $35,000 fine, and was ordered to help reduce the leachate flow from the landfill. Three years later, Gemtec Limited was fined a total of $6,000 and was ordered to contribute a total of $22,000 to the federal Environmental Damages Fund and the Jonathan Creek Committee.
Discharge
The river aids in the drainage of ten significant bodies of water: Weldon Creek, Fox Creek, Mill Creek, Halls Creek, Jonathan Creek, Turtle Creek, Little River, Pollett River, Anagance River, and North River.
A report in 2000 showed that it handles an average
discharge
Discharge may refer to
Expel or let go
* Discharge, the act of firing a gun
* Discharge, or termination of employment, the end of an employee's duration with an employer
* Military discharge, the release of a member of the armed forces from serv ...
of at the causeway yearly, with a recorded high of in 1962 and a low of in 1966. The same report estimated mean values for the minimum and maximum discharges for every two-year, 10-year, and
100-year flood events, and minimum discharges for every two-year, five-year, and 100-year "drought" events:
Tidal bore
The Petitcodiac River tidal bores—retrograde waves moving upstream over downstream waves—occur twice a day and come from the world's highest tides in the Bay of Fundy.
The first European mention of the bore was by British Lieutenant Colonel George Scott on 17 November 1758, during a downstream voyage from Moncton to Fort Frederick, near Saint John.
The
Admiralty referred to the tidal bore in a hydrographic chart published in 1861, observing that "
fterits passage the rise of the tide is very rapid until high water is attained", and that "
uring the lowest tidesthe Bore still appears but its broken front usually is only a few inches high."
The bores ranged from in height, with speeds from .
In 1825,
Peter Fisher noted that the "noise of the Bore is heard a great distance, and animals immediately take to the highland, and manifest visible signs of terror if near it." Before the causeway (1968), values were compared with the tidal bores of the
Qiantang
The Qiantang River, formerly known as the Hangchow River and alternatively romanised as the Tsientang River, is a river in East China. An important commercial artery, it runs for through Zhejiang, passing through the provincial capital H ...
,
Hooghly and
Amazon
Amazon most often refers to:
* Amazons, a tribe of female warriors in Greek mythology
* Amazon rainforest, a rainforest covering most of the Amazon basin
* Amazon River, in South America
* Amazon (company), an American multinational technolog ...
rivers.
After the causeway was built, the bores reached heights from about .
Wildlife
Before the construction of the causeway, the Petitcodiac River was home to many aquatic species. Fish originally included hundreds of thousands of Atlantic tomcod and rainbow smelt, tens of thousands of gaspereau and American shad, thousands of American eel, Atlantic salmon, brook trout, lamprey, and striped bass and hundreds of Atlantic sturgeon.
Other fish include the blueback herring, the brown bullhead, the chain pickerel, the smallmouth bass, the white perch, and the white sucker.
Marine mammals were uncommon, but normally consisted of pilot whales, Atlantic white-sided dolphins, harbour porpoise, harbour seals, and porbeagles.
Freshwater mollusc species included the brook floater, the
dwarf wedgemussel, the eastern elliptio, the eastern floater, the eastern pearlshell, and the triangle floater.
Many other aquatic organisms are thought to have once entered the watershed due to the low salinity of the water.
Six species have disappeared from the river since the mid-1980s.
The Petitcodiac River was the only known Canadian habitat of the dwarf wedgemussel, and was later isolated to just nine
American watersheds after its elimination from the Petitcodiac.
The Atlantic salmon is no longer present in the watershed, and has since been listed as an
endangered species in Canada.
The American shad was a favourite with fishermen, and represented two-thirds of the entire Canadian shad landings from 1870 to 1900; catches peaked at million kilograms (two to six million pounds) per year.
Three other species have been eliminated from the river: the striped bass, the Atlantic sturgeon, and the Atlantic tomcod.
However, a project of the Petitcodiac Riverkeeper, funded by the Government of Canada's Environmental Damage Fund in 2005, noted that the removal of the causeway would result in a "good" chance of bringing back the eliminated species, and an "excellent" chance of increasing the numbers of species deemed to have been reduced in numbers. No data has been released for the Atlantic salmon or the striped bass.
Various insects and arachnids reside around the Petitcodiac River. Among them is the
stonefly, the mayfly, the
caddisfly, the ''
simulium'', the subfamily of
tanypodinae, and the
Hydracarina.
Non-native species, such as the black-footed spider, the beech scale, the white-marked tussock moth, and the mountain ash sawfly have also made their home in the Petitcodiac River watershed.
At the southern extremities of the watershed, 50 to 90 percent of the world's
semipalmated sandpipers feed on the mud shrimp at Shepody Bay. Around 269,445 stop there before migrating to South America, a number which accounts for at least 7.7 percent of the total population. Among others, the
semipalmated plover (around 2 percent of the North American population), the
short-billed dowitcher, the
red knot, the
sanderling, and the
least sandpiper are also known for migrating through the
Important Bird Area
An Important Bird and Biodiversity Area (IBA) is an area identified using an internationally agreed set of criteria as being globally important for the conservation of bird populations.
IBA was developed and sites are identified by BirdLife Int ...
.
A diverse number of plant species reside in the watershed as well. Red, white, and black spruce, red maple, white birch, and trembling aspen are the most common. Jack pine is commonly found in regions that fires have repeatedly ravished, while cedar is found in bogs and areas where gypsum and limestone are present. Higher altitude slopes and ridgetops house sugar maple, beech, and yellow birch trees. Zelazny et al. note that "
hehigh frequency of disturbed sites dominated by aspen stands reveals the degree of historical and recent human disturbance along the Petitcodiac River."
The Petitcodiac River's
riparian zone houses a number of trees, including
willows, white spruce, white pine, and
speckled alder.
Other trees, such as the
tamarack and white pine, can also be found in the watershed. Plants such as the
rufous bulrush tend to grow near calcareous areas, and
hemlock can be found in small, pure stands.
Alien plant species include the mother-of-thyme, the Japanese barberry, the Scotch broom, the yellow flag, and Canada bluegrass.
In 1937, the 37,000-year-old skeleton of a
mastodon was discovered by workers near
Hillsborough
Hillsborough may refer to:
Australia
*Hillsborough, New South Wales, a suburb of Lake Macquarie
Canada
*Hillsborough, New Brunswick
*Hillsborough Parish, New Brunswick
* Hillsborough, Nova Scotia, in Inverness County
*Hillsborough (electoral d ...
. It was in near perfect condition and was transported to the
New Brunswick Museum in
Saint John, where it has been displayed ever since.
Geology
The Petitcodiac River watershed covers an area north and east of the Caledonian Highlands; a low-elevation (on average 67 m; ) region with rolling hills, valleys, and ridges. In fact, most of the region was below sea level, beneath the former DeGeer and Goldthwait seas, during the
quaternary period.
[ PWMG 2001, p. 22] Non-
calcareous
Calcareous () is an adjective meaning "mostly or partly composed of calcium carbonate", in other words, containing lime or being chalky. The term is used in a wide variety of scientific disciplines.
In zoology
''Calcareous'' is used as an a ...
Pennsylvanian Pennsylvanian may refer to:
* A person or thing from Pennsylvania
* Pennsylvanian (geology)
The Pennsylvanian ( , also known as Upper Carboniferous or Late Carboniferous) is, in the International Commission on Stratigraphy, ICS geologic timesca ...
(and younger) sandstones,
conglomerate
Conglomerate or conglomeration may refer to:
* Conglomerate (company)
* Conglomerate (geology)
* Conglomerate (mathematics)
In popular culture:
* The Conglomerate (American group), a production crew and musical group founded by Busta Rhymes
** Co ...
s, silt, and red- to grey-tinted
mudstone now compose the majority of the bedrock.
The northern shore of the Petitcodiac River, including the Anagance and North rivers, is primarily made up of shale with volcanic rocks, mixed igneous rocks, and
felsic pebble conglomerates. The southern shore, including the Little and Pollett rivers, is composed of
Precambrian
The Precambrian (or Pre-Cambrian, sometimes abbreviated pꞒ, or Cryptozoic) is the earliest part of Earth's history, set before the current Phanerozoic Eon. The Precambrian is so named because it preceded the Cambrian, the first period of th ...
or Lower-
Palaeozoic
The Paleozoic (or Palaeozoic) Era is the earliest of three geologic eras of the Phanerozoic Eon.
The name ''Paleozoic'' ( ;) was coined by the British geologist Adam Sedgwick in 1838
by combining the Greek words ''palaiós'' (, "old") and ' ...
sedimentary, igneous, and volcanic rocks, and limestone. Both shores include red to grey
Mississippian
Mississippian may refer to:
* Mississippian (geology), a subperiod of the Carboniferous period in the geologic timescale, roughly 360 to 325 million years ago
*Mississippian culture, a culture of Native American mound-builders from 900 to 1500 AD ...
sandstone.
Red beds, or red-tinted sedimentary rocks, have a higher occurrence around
Port Elgin.
Other significant Mississippian-era rock patches appear in two areas around the watershed. The first is located near the north-western border of the watershed, near Lutes Mountain and Cornhill. The second ranges from the east of the Memramcook River to the west of Hillsborough, in Beech Hill.
The Petitcodiac River watershed also features
karst topography, where
gypsum
Gypsum is a soft sulfate mineral composed of calcium sulfate dihydrate, with the chemical formula . It is widely mined and is used as a fertilizer and as the main constituent in many forms of plaster, blackboard or sidewalk chalk, and dr ...
and limestone around Mississippian rocks dilute into the circulating groundwater. This creates
sinkholes,
depressions, and caves. Examples of rare karst occurrences appear west of the village of Petitcodiac, where large sinkholes alternate between small ridges to form honeycomb-shaped patterns. Hillsborough is the home of one of the longest gypsum cave networks in eastern Canada, and is a key habitat for bats in hibernation.
The majority of the watershed's
topsoil
Topsoil is the upper layer of soil. It has the highest concentration of organic matter and microorganisms and is where most of the Earth's biological soil activity occurs.
Description
Topsoil is composed of mineral particles and organic matte ...
is composed of sand, clay, and silt, under which normally lies a layer of ablation
moraine
A moraine is any accumulation of unconsolidated debris ( regolith and rock), sometimes referred to as glacial till, that occurs in both currently and formerly glaciated regions, and that has been previously carried along by a glacier or ice sh ...
s.
Fairly rich soils made of
alluvium and tidal deposits are found along the Petitcodiac and Memramcook rivers, and have often been exploited for agricultural purposes. A publication by the New Brunswick Department of Natural Resources notes that the soils in Salisbury, made from calcareous sandstone and mudstone, are fine-textured and, when properly drained, "are the most fertile glacial tills" in the watershed. In contrast, they note, soils deriving from local conglomerates are more coarse and sandy, and are less fertile.
Albertite, a type of asphalt, was first found in Albert County in 1849 by the Canadian geologist
Abraham Gesner, inventor of
kerosene. Over 200,000
tonne
The tonne ( or ; symbol: t) is a unit of mass equal to 1000 kilograms. It is a non-SI unit accepted for use with SI. It is also referred to as a metric ton to distinguish it from the non-metric units of the short ton ( United State ...
s of the mineral were shipped to
Boston
Boston (), officially the City of Boston, is the capital city, state capital and List of municipalities in Massachusetts, most populous city of the Commonwealth (U.S. state), Commonwealth of Massachusetts, as well as the cultural and financ ...
within 30 years. Large deposits of gypsum found eight kilometres (five miles) from the mining site were shipped around the globe as well. The Petitcodiac River was used as the primary means for transporting the minerals at the time.
History
Colonisation (1604–1698)
The Petitcodiac River region was first settled by the Mi'kmaq, who used the river's upstream current as part of a portage route between Shubenacadie and a winter camp at the confluence of the Anagance and North rivers.
The first Europeans arrived in early 1604, when a French expedition to
Acadia (now
Nova Scotia
Nova Scotia ( ; ; ) is one of the thirteen provinces and territories of Canada. It is one of the three Maritime provinces and one of the four Atlantic provinces. Nova Scotia is Latin for "New Scotland".
Most of the population are native En ...
and New Brunswick), led by the explorer
Pierre Dugua de Mons and accompanied by cartographer
Samuel de Champlain and future Acadian governor
Jean de Biencourt, sailed into the Bay of Fundy. Hoping to find an ideal site for a settlement, they passed
Advocate Harbour and the Saint John River before Dugua chose to settle on
Saint Croix Island in present-day
Maine
Maine () is a U.S. state, state in the New England and Northeastern United States, Northeastern regions of the United States. It borders New Hampshire to the west, the Gulf of Maine to the southeast, and the Provinces and territories of Canad ...
.
Although they did not explore the Petitcodiac region, they returned to the coasts of eastern Nova Scotia, where they founded
Port Royal. In 1676, Jacques Bourgeois, a colonist from the Nova Scotian settlement, settled in the area of
Beaubassin (now the
Tantramar Marshes). By 1685, its population had grown to 129, with 19 out of the 22 families living permanently in the region. Pierre Thibodeau, also from Port Royal, founded Chipody (now
Shepody, New Brunswick) near Shepody Bay in 1698.
At this time, the inhabitants often referred to the Petitcodiac, Memramcook, and Shepody River area as "''Trois-Rivières''" (Three Rivers) (not to be confused with
Trois-Rivières, Quebec).
Acadian History (1698–1763)
The
French and Indian War
The French and Indian War (1754–1763) was a theater of the Seven Years' War, which pitted the North American colonies of the British Empire against those of the French, each side being supported by various Native American tribes. At the st ...
erupted in 1754 amid tensions between the British and the French over control of the
Ohio Valley
The Ohio River is a long river in the United States. It is located at the boundary of the Midwestern and Southern United States, flowing southwesterly from western Pennsylvania to its mouth on the Mississippi River at the southern tip of Illino ...
. Initially, the inhabitants of Acadia were uninvolved in the conflict because the French had already ceded the land to Britain under the
Treaty of Utrecht (1713). The Acadians were asked to take an oath declaring complete fidelity toward the
British monarch on several occasions, but they refused.
At first, they were not punished for doing so.
A declaration of neutrality was signed in 1730 and was accepted by Nova Scotia governor
Richard Philipps.
This earned the Acadians the nickname the "neutral French".
At the outbreak of war in 1754, the British again demanded unconditional oaths of fealty, perceiving the Acadians as a possible threat.
In spite of resistance led by
Jean-Louis Le Loutre, representatives eventually agreed to sign,
but their reluctance persuaded
Governor Charles Lawrence to order the Acadian population
expelled from British territory.
About 1,100 Acadians living around the Petitcodiac River were affected by this decision. Two hundred British troops led by Major Joseph Frye were sent to destroy the settlements of the Three Rivers, beginning with Shepody and Village-des-Blanchard (now Hillsborough).
French resistance commander
Charles Deschamps de Boishébert, hoping to evacuate as many Acadians as possible, was unable to march the distance between
Nerepis and the Shepody settlement in time, but
fought at the second threatened village on 28 August 1755.
Boishébert's troops, composed of inhabitants from the area and from Shepody,
counter-attacked, suffering only one loss to twenty-three British casualties.
This defeat is thought to have been the reason for the British abandonment of the campaign at the Three Rivers.
The commander and the evacuated Acadians, whom Edward Larracey estimated to total around 700,
suffered a massive famine from 1756 to 1758, largely caused by the scarce resources following the battle.
In 1758,
Joseph Broussard, also known as Beausoleil by the locals, led raids against British vessels sailing in the Bay of Fundy and the Cumberland Basin.
This provoked the British into initiating two raids of their own. The first took place in February in
Shediac
Shediac (official in both languages; ''Shédiac'' is colloquial French) is a heavily Acadian town in Westmorland County, New Brunswick. The town is home to the famous Parlee Beach and is known as the "Lobster Capital of the World". It hosts ...
, where Lieutenant Colonel George Scott tried to find Boishébert. When they were returning, Boishébert ambushed them, killing two of Scott's gunmen. The second raid took place at the settlement of Shepody in March, where the British were shocked to find that the Acadians had already begun rebuilding their homes.
On 28 June, Scott learned of reports that cattle were stolen outside of Fort Beausejour; the British issued an order for
Captain Beloni Danks to
send 75 men up the Petitcodiac River.
They arrived in Moncton the following night, and about 30 Acadians began firing at their vessel. However, Danks held his offensive position, and the British killed 19 Acadians, taking nine others prisoner. He and his troops continued to sail up the river the next day; they sent 60 men to burn a settlement west of Moncton. Historians presume that the area had already been deserted.
Acadians continued to survive in the region, overcoming the results of the raids. Scott sailed back to the region to search for Beausoleil and to weaken the Acadians before the winter.
He arrived in Moncton near midnight on 12 November, but the tide of the Petitcodiac River prevented him from sending more than twelve men. They came back the next morning with 16 prisoners. Scott was told that the area was virtually defenceless, so he sent three parties to La Chapelle (now Bore Park in Moncton), Silvabro (now Lewisville), and Jagersome (now Dieppe). Scott recorded no deaths or prisoners, but all buildings in sight were burned, and cattle were brought back onto the vessel.
Additional raids by Scott between 14 and 17 November captured a dozen Acadian prisoners, burned settlements, and uncovered Beausoleil's own
schooner
A schooner () is a type of sailing vessel defined by its rig: fore-and-aft rigged on all of two or more masts and, in the case of a two-masted schooner, the foremast generally being shorter than the mainmast. A common variant, the topsail schoo ...
. The crew sent an Acadian prisoner on the 17th to request the surrender of the remaining residents, but when he returned, he reported that they had all begun to flee to
Cocagne
Cocagne () is a Canadian community, formerly part of an eponymous local service district (LSD) and later incorporated rural community, in Kent County, New Brunswick.
History
It was named after Cockaigne, a mythical paradise in medieval Fre ...
, Shediac, and the settlements around the
Miramichi River.
This prompted Scott to return to Fort Frederick in Saint John.
A few of the Acadians migrating to the Miramichi River probably died of
hypothermia
Hypothermia is defined as a body core temperature below in humans. Symptoms depend on the temperature. In mild hypothermia, there is shivering and mental confusion. In moderate hypothermia, shivering stops and confusion increases. In severe h ...
during the trip due to the 1758–59 winter.
Those who survived joined the refugees already present, who had been persuaded by Boishébert to seek refuge there. Inadequate housing and supplies, among other reasons, led to the deterioration of the reputation of the French commander, and only 700 Acadians remained there by late 1759.
Meanwhile, the raiding rapidly took its toll on the residents who stayed around the Three Rivers, as food supplies became scarce and reconstruction became impossible. The
fall of Quebec City in September 1759 also eliminated the possibility of assistance from that area. On 16 November 1759, the 190 Acadians in the region sent a delegate to Fort Beauséjour (which had been renamed Fort Cumberland) to announce their surrender to the newly promoted Colonel Frye. The settlements of
Miramichi The name "Miramichi" was first applied to a region in the northeast of New Brunswick, Canada, and has since been applied to other places in Canada and the United States. Although other interpretations have been suggested, it is believed that "Mirami ...
,
Richibucto, and
Bouctouche surrendered the next day, with a delegate sent to the fort to represent their 700 refugees. Frye requested and received permission from Governor Lawrence to take them in for the winter. The Acadian refugees were offered land on the
Isthmus of Chignecto
The Isthmus of Chignecto is an isthmus bordering the Maritime provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia that connects the Nova Scotia peninsula with North America.
The isthmus separates the waters of Chignecto Bay, a sub-basin of the Bay o ...
in early 1760, but most requested their original lands around the Three Rivers, which the governor granted.
Resettlement and Modern History (1763–present)
After the
Treaty of Paris (1763)
The Treaty of Paris, also known as the Treaty of 1763, was signed on 10 February 1763 by the kingdoms of Great Britain, France and Spain, with Portugal in agreement, after Great Britain and Prussia's victory over France and Spain during the ...
, exiled Acadians began to return to the area, but their numbers around the Three Rivers remained under 200 by 1769.
Settlers from
Philadelphia
Philadelphia, often called Philly, is the largest city in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, the sixth-largest city in the U.S., the second-largest city in both the Northeast megalopolis and Mid-Atlantic regions after New York City. Sinc ...
began to migrate to the Petitcodiac River area in 1766: the Trites, Jones and Stieff families moved to present-day Moncton, but the Stieff family (now
Steeves
Steeves (also Steves) is a surname. Notable people with the name include:
*Burpee L. Steeves (1868–1933), American politician from Idaho; lieutenant governor of Idaho 1905–07
* David Steeves (1934–1965), U.S. Air Force officer cleared of gi ...
), later moved south-east to Hillsborough. Nine families bought land up to west from the bend of the river, ranging from per grant. In 1829, the population of Moncton reached 100, composed mainly of descendants of these settlers.
Moncton's
shipbuilding
Shipbuilding is the construction of ships and other Watercraft, floating vessels. It normally takes place in a specialized facility known as a shipyard. Shipbuilders, also called shipwrights, follow a specialized occupation that traces its roo ...
era began in 1840 with the arrival of Stewart Russell, a shipbuilder from Hopewell. Russell built the ''Aginora'', which sailed down the Petitcodiac River to trade at the ports in Saint John and
New England
New England is a region comprising six states in the Northeastern United States: Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and Vermont. It is bordered by the state of New York to the west and by the Canadian province ...
. The ship and its crew sank in a storm on 24 December 1850, during a trip to Boston for Christmas. A ferry service on the Petitcodiac River was launched around 1841, thanks to a license obtained by Simon Outhouse. The ''Larch'', built by
Stephen Binney
Stephen Binney (March 24, 1805 – January 17, 1872) was a merchant, shipbuilder and political figure in Nova Scotia. He was the first mayor of Halifax, serving from 1841 to 1842.
He was born in Halifax, the son of Hibbert Newton Binney, who ...
in 1845, was another important vessel, becoming the largest to sail on the river. But it was not until the arrival of Joseph Salter in 1846 that the shipbuilding boom began: a shipyard founded by Binney and Salter produced 24 vessels from 1847 to 1859, and employed almost 500 of the 1,000 inhabitants in Moncton. Salter would become the first mayor of Moncton in April 1855, the year the town was incorporated.
The
European and North American Railway was extended to link
Pointe-du-Chene to Moncton in 1857, with an eventual goal of reaching Saint John in 1860. The move, according to Larracey, caused the town to become "but a station stop along a railway line".
This coincided with the failure of Moncton's shipbuilding industry and a population drop from a peak of 2,000 to about 500.
The town declared bankruptcy and was unincorporated in 1862, but it later regained its status in 1875, after it became the
Intercolonial Railway's headquarters for its shops in 1871.
While the Petitcodiac River continued to aid in the shipping of goods into the 20th century, shipbuilding essentially ended in the 1890s. The final vessel built in Moncton was the ''Woolastook II'' on 14 May 1980, while the final ship to sail up the Petitcodiac River was the ''Inox'' from France, which arrived on 12 July 1986, (and was, ironically, stranded in Moncton until 3 November due to the river's tidal fluctuations).
In 1924, the Petitcodiac Tidal Power Company proposed a
tidal power project. This called for a dam to be built between
Hopewell Cape and Fort Folly Point. The company sold shares to raise funds for the project and a series of on-site and airborne studies were conducted by the federal government, but the project fell through by 1928. As rail transport became more common, it displaced river transportation around the
Great Depression.
In addition, the
Greater Moncton International Airport offered an
airmail service from Moncton to
Montreal
Montreal ( ; officially Montréal, ) is the second-most populous city in Canada and most populous city in the Canadian province of Quebec. Founded in 1642 as '' Ville-Marie'', or "City of Mary", it is named after Mount Royal, the triple- ...
by 29 December 1929. These factors further marginalised the Petitcodiac.
The
Gunningsville Bridge, which crosses the Petitcodiac River to link Moncton and Riverview, was built in 1867. It was damaged and rebuilt on four different occasions. The first was following the
Saxby Gale of 1869, which forced the town to rebuild the bridge in 1872.
It went under "extensive repairs" mid-1892, but ice build-up from the Petitcodiac continued to pose a threat for the wooden structure, leading to the construction of a new steel version from 1915 to 1919.
This fourth bridge would suffer through many collisions, including one with the ''Mayflower'' in September 1929, which caused the ship to capsize and drown two men. The Gunningsville Bridge would last 86 years before it would be demolished a final time, making way for a four-lane bridge crossing. Covered bridges were also built over the Petitcodiac River, the final extant one being "Hasty", built in 1929.
Causeway Controversy (1968–present)
In 1968, the provincial and federal governments completed the construction of a causeway between the communities of Moncton and Riverview, to provide a crossing over the river, and to keep water levels from impeding agricultural production.
This was a benefit for the federal government at the time, which had constantly maintained the dykes in the area. It also benefited the provincial government, as the federal government was willing to fund the $3 million project, but not a bridge. Although the causeway was equipped with a fishway, problems arose when fish were unable to cross it freely due to sedimentation build-up; some 82 percent of the salmon were prevented from travelling upstream by the structure.
The sediment accumulated in the of river downstream from the causeway, with over 10 million cubic metres (13 million cubic yards) of silt deposited in the first three years following construction.
Several reports from 1969 to 1971 described its impact on the aquatic ecosystem, and proposals for amendments to the causeway gates were released, but no action was taken. In 1976 and 1977, reports pointed out several problems related to the gates' function due to erosion, winter ice jams, and "unsatisfactory fishway operation".
It was not until 1978 that New Brunswick's Department of Transportation commissioned a study of the problems. The final report recommended three alternatives for action: to continue operation "as-is", to continue operation without the gates, or to eliminate gate leakage and amend the operation protocol. The third alternative was chosen two years later, but did not substantially improve fish migration as expected.
The provincial government decided to open the gates between 15 April and 7 July 1988, to allow fish to migrate up the stream. This was repeated from 26 September to 31 October 1988, and in the spring of 1989 and 1990 during low tides. In 1991, New Brunswick's Department of Oceans and Fisheries recommended opening the gates from April to December each year. A provincial government committee report recommended an additional seven options for the modification of the causeway in May 1992, but the government did not act upon any of these options due to the low "cost-benefit" factor.
More reports documented problems related to the passage of fish in the river until 1995, when the Department of Transportation agreed to open one gate from April to December, as suggested four years earlier. A project was then organized in December 1996 to begin a trial for the systematic opening of the gates during the year, but conditions could not be physically met, and it was terminated on 1 June 1999.
In February 2001, the ''Niles Report'' proposed an additional four modifications to the causeway project: to either replace the fishway, open the gates during peak fish migration, open the gates permanently, or replace the entire causeway with a bridge.
[ New Brunswick Department of the Environment 2002, p. 3] An Environmental Impact Assessment study was commissioned in 2003 to develop and summarise these options, and on its completion in 2005, it announced the recognition of "Option 3" and "Option 4" as possible solutions. The first option had been ruled out following the evaluation of other fish passage models, which were deemed inapplicable to the river. The second, suggesting systematic gate-opening periods, was ruled out because of the inability to cater to every marine species' migration periods.
[ New Brunswick Department of the Environment 2005, pp. 13–16] Option 4 was split into three sub-options, mainly to list possible bridge lengths: 170, 280, and 315 metres (190, 310, and 344 yards). The provincial government later accepted the proposal on 6 December 2006,
and selected "Option 4B" on 7 August 2007, which called for a bridge in the place of the causeway.
The project was divided into three phases, expected to cost a total of $68 million.
Phase 1 consisted of the prevention of erosion along the shorelines, improvements to the nearby drainage system, and the construction of dikes and ''aboiteaux''; the work was carried out from 7 July 2008, to 14 April 2010.
Phase 2 consisted of opening the gates to monitor river flow, both upstream and downstream, for two years.
Phase 3 commenced in 2012 and consisted of the bridge's development and the removal of the causeway, which was completed on 17 September 2021.
Confusion arose as to whether or not the project would be funded by the federal government. They refused, in spite of an earlier comment from the Department of Fisheries and Oceans, which had hinted at a possible negotiation.
Unwilling to wait, the provincial government came forward with an initial $20 million on 7 July 2008, to begin the first phase.
The approach of Phase 2 was met with various complaints. A biology professor at the
Université de Moncton noted that $200,000–$250,000 worth of pesticide would be required to keep the mosquito population around the city of Moncton from doubling once the gates open.
Flood warnings were issued by the provincial Department of Supply and Services for the town of Riverview, warning that high river tides could lead to the flooding of over of sport fields and structures built in low-lying areas; however, they added that the causeway's flood gates were able to descend if required, eliminating the chances of such repercussions from a possible inundation.
Residents near the headpond west of the causeway criticized the project, citing the decrease in property values of about 480 homes (by approximately 30 percent, according to the EIA report),
the $68 million price tag,
unstable ice conditions,
and a lower water quality.
In spite of legal threats by the Lake Petitcodiac Preservation Association (LAPPA) and various residents, the causeway opened its gates on 14 April 2010, coinciding with the beginning of various studies.
Since the opening, the river improved significantly, surpassing original expectations for the project. An
AMEC engineer participating in the firm's studies, Jacques Paynter, said that the banks of the river had begun widening "at a noticeable pace", with the tidal bore growing closer to its pre-1968 levels: "We were actually anticipating a fairly modest increase in height. It seems to be already exceeding what we might have expected." He noted that an estimated 40,000 gaspereau had returned to the river, and called for more studies to determine the impact of the causeway's opening.
Recreation
Residents around the Petitcodiac have used the river for various recreational purposes. Trips were made annually via the river from Moncton to Beaumont for Feast of Saint-Anne celebrations with the locals. The ''Blakeson'', a towboat owned by Blakeny and Sons, offered "moonlight cruises" in the early 1930s for 50 cents (approximately $6.50 in 2010 values). The service was popular until the towboat capsized in front of embarking passengers, causing them to lose interest. During their Environmental Impact Assessment in September 2005, AMEC cited recreational fishing and
birdwatching as major pre-causeway activities. A fishery for Atlantic salmon existed downstream from the causeway for several years post-1968.
The Moncton Naturalists' Club also publishes their ''Birding in the Moncton Area'', a birdwatching guide covering sites from
Sackville to
Mary's Point. Other activities downstream from the causeway include boating, canoeing, kayaking, seal and harbour-porpoise viewing, and tour boating.
On 24 July 2013, the North American record for surfing a single river wave was set by Wessels and Whitbread of California, who
rode the Petitcodiac River's tidal bore .
Before the opening of the causeway gates on 14 April 2010, the Petitcodiac River's headpond (west of the causeway), colloquially known as Lake Petitcodiac, was promoted by LAPPA as a recreational haven for residents in the area.
According to the association, over 10,000 estimated hours of boating took place on the lake, in addition to canoeing, kayaking, motor boating, water skiing, jet skiing, sailing, and swimming. Fishing tournaments,
dragon boat regattas,
dog sledding, and snowmobiling were popular at the time as well.
However, a study by the PWMG showed that fecal coliform levels in the headpond from June, July, and September 2009 exceeded 2,419 parts per 100 millilitres; more than 12 times the 200/100 ml recommended by the Canadian Water Quality Guidelines for recreational purposes.
Bore Park, located in the area formerly known as La Chapelle,
became a popular tourist location by 1907 for watching the Petitcodiac's tidal bore move up the river twice a day. The area features information about the wave, as well as a clock indicating the time of its next appearance.
Bore Park is a part of Riverfront Park, Greater Moncton's section of the
Trans Canada Trail, where tourists may walk, bike, or skate along the riverfront.
The trail continues west to Hillsborough and
Fundy National Park, and east to Sackville, Nova Scotia, and
Prince Edward Island.
Jonathan Creek, Fox Creek, Halls Creek, and Mills Creek also offer trails that run along their streams.
Lists
The following lists are ordered from the mouth of the river to its source.
Crossings
The river is crossed 11 times: by 10 bridges and a causeway.
Tributaries
The Petitcodiac River features ten named tributaries, which drain a total of 28 additional streams.
[ PWMG 2001, p. 27]
See also
*
List of rivers of New Brunswick
*
Petitcodiac Riverkeeper Petitcodiac Riverkeeper is a registered non-profit organization and Riverkeeper group based in Moncton, New Brunswick, eastern Canada. The group's mission is to lead the restoration, protection and promotion of the ecological integrity of the Petit ...
*
Riverfront Trail, Greater Moncton
References
References
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External links
Petitcodiac RiverkeeperPetitcodiac Watershed AllianceOfficial site for the causeway project
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Landforms of Albert County, New Brunswick
Landforms of Kings County, New Brunswick
Rivers of New Brunswick
Tidal bores
Landforms of Westmorland County, New Brunswick
Surfing locations in Canada
River surfing