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Peter John Graham (8 December 1939 – 6 July 2020) was a British writer, restaurant critic, translator and filmmaker based in France. He was the author of several books about film and about food, including ''A Dictionary of the Cinema'' (1964), ''The French New Wave'' (1968) and ''Mourjou: The Life and Food of an Auvergne Village'' (1998), which recounted the culinary life of the remote French village in which he lived for more than four decades.


Early life

Graham was born on 8 December 1939 in
Newbury, Berkshire Newbury is a market town in the county of Berkshire, England, and is home to the administrative headquarters of West Berkshire Council. The town centre around its large market square retains a rare medieval Cloth Hall, an adjoining half timbere ...
, and grew up in London with his parents (Richard, an advertising copywriter, and Anne, née Scratchley, previously a ballet dancer) and sister Elizabeth. The seeds of Graham's love of France and film were sown early: his parents were keen Francophiles and his godmother a French film producer through whom he landed a role as an English schoolboy in Pierre Billon's feature film '' Au revoir M. Grock'' (1949).


University years

Graham was educated at
University College School ("Slowly but surely") , established = , closed = , type = Public schoolIndependent day school , religion = , president = , head_label = Headmaster , head = Mark Beard , r_head_label = , r_hea ...
, Hampstead, and
King's College, Cambridge King's College is a constituent college of the University of Cambridge. Formally The King's College of Our Lady and Saint Nicholas in Cambridge, the college lies beside the River Cam and faces out onto King's Parade in the centre of the city ...
, where alongside a degree in French and classics he pursued his involvement in cinema by contributing reviews to ''
Granta ''Granta'' is a literary magazine and publisher in the United Kingdom whose mission centres on its "belief in the power and urgency of the story, both in fiction and non-fiction, and the story’s supreme ability to describe, illuminate and ma ...
'' (of which he was editor in 1961–62), ''Cambridge Opinion'', and other publications. In 1963 he published a vitriolic pamphlet on contemporary British cinema, ''The Abortive Renaissance: Why Are Good British Films So Bad?''. At Cambridge, too, he made the first of his three short firms, ''A Shilling Life'' (1962–63), a fascinating document on early 1960s student life, featuring a cameo by future filmmaker
Stephen Frears Stephen Arthur Frears (born 20 June 1941) is an English director and producer of film and television often depicting real life stories as well as projects that explore social class through sharply drawn characters. He's received numerous accola ...
.


Life in France: filmmaking, writing, translating

Graham moved to Paris in 1962, working as an English teacher and freelance translator. From the early 1970s to 2008, he worked for ''The Guardian Weekly'', translating articles from ''Le Monde'' on a wide variety of subjects for a regular section in the paper. Throughout his life, he also translated several books on a range of topics, from film to food and psychoanalysis. His first French film was ''Edith Piaf'' (1968), a short documentary on the well-known French singer. This was followed by ''Au bout des fusils'' / ''At Gunpoint'' (1971), a semi-documentary exposé of scandalous hunting practices in the
Sologne Sologne (; ) is a natural region in Centre-Val de Loire, France, extending over portions of the departements of Loiret, Loir-et-Cher and Cher. Its area is about . To its north is the river Loire, to its south the river Cher, while the districts ...
, a wooded area south of
Orléans Orléans (;"Orleans"
(US) and
Jean Renoir Jean Renoir (; 15 September 1894 – 12 February 1979) was a French film director, screenwriter, actor, producer and author. As a film director and actor, he made more than forty films from the silent film, silent era to the end of the 1960s. ...
's ''
The Rules of the Game ''The Rules of the Game'' (original French title: ''La règle du jeu'') is a 1939 French Satire, satirical comedy-drama film directed by Jean Renoir. The ensemble cast includes Nora Gregor, Paulette Dubost, Mila Parély, Marcel Dalio, Julien ...
'' (1939) and its celebrated hunting scene, is notable for its cinematography by Polish director
Walerian Borowczyk Walerian Borowczyk (21 October 1923 – 3 February 2006) was an internationally known Polish film director described by film critics as a 'genius who also happened to be a pornographer'. He directed 40 films between 1946 and 1988. Borowczyk sett ...
. As well as his film reviews and festival reports for a variety of British publications, including ''
The Guardian ''The Guardian'' is a British daily newspaper. It was founded in 1821 as ''The Manchester Guardian'', and changed its name in 1959. Along with its sister papers ''The Observer'' and ''The Guardian Weekly'', ''The Guardian'' is part of the Gu ...
'', the 1960s also saw the publication of two important books: the pioneering ''A Dictionary of the Cinema'' (Tantivy Press, 1964) and the anthology ''The New Wave'' (Secker & Warburg, 1968), published in an expanded edition as ''The French New Wave: Critical Landmarks'' by the
British Film Institute The British Film Institute (BFI) is a film and television charitable organisation which promotes and preserves film-making and television in the United Kingdom. The BFI uses funds provided by the National Lottery to encourage film production, ...
in 2009, becoming a standard book for students and fans of the New Wave. At the time of his death, Graham was working with co-editor
Ginette Vincendeau Ginette Vincendeau (born 1948) is a French-born British-based academic who is a professor of film studies at King's College London. Early life and education Vincendeau was educated at the Lycée Lamartine and Lycée Sophie Germain in Paris, ...
o
a second, expanded edition of the book
published by Bloomsbury in 2022.


Writing about food

In the 1970s Graham turned his long-standing devotion to food and good eating to profitable use, making a name for himself as a restaurant and food critic for ''The Guardian'', ''
The Sunday Times ''The Sunday Times'' is a British newspaper whose circulation makes it the largest in Britain's quality press market category. It was founded in 1821 as ''The New Observer''. It is published by Times Newspapers Ltd, a subsidiary of News UK, whi ...
'' and the ''
International Herald Tribune The ''International Herald Tribune'' (''IHT'') was a daily English-language newspaper published in Paris, France for international English-speaking readers. It had the aim of becoming "the world's first global newspaper" and could fairly be said ...
''. For the latter, he edited the ''International Herald Tribune Guide to Business Travel and Entertainment''. He also contributed large chunks of text to the ''American Express Pocket Guide to Paris''. In 1978, he settled in what had once been a hotel-cum-café-cum-grocery store in the small village of Mourjou in the
Auvergne Auvergne (; ; oc, label=Occitan, Auvèrnhe or ) is a former administrative region in central France, comprising the four departments of Allier, Puy-de-Dôme, Cantal and Haute-Loire. Since 1 January 2016, it has been part of the new region Auverg ...
, where he lived for the rest of his life. From there he pursued a number of food writing projects, beginning with ''Cuisine Niçoise: Recipes from a Mediterranean Kitchen'' (1983), a translation of recipes put together by the notorious mayor of Nice,
Jacques Médecin Jacques Médecin (5 May 1928 – 17 November 1998) was a French politician. A member of the Gaullist party RPR, he succeeded his father Jean Médecin as mayor of the city of Nice, serving from 1966 to 1990. Under suspicion of corruption, he fled ...
. In 1988, he published the prize-winning ''Classic Cheese Cookery'' and, in 1998, ''Mourjou, The Life and Food of an Auvergne Village'', a book that reflects both the author's expertise and his love for his village and its region: as he researched the history of Auvergne food, he also picked up many of his recipes from neighbouring farmers, bakers and pork butchers.In recent years, Graham wrote mainly for his culinary blog ''Chez Gram'': his articles expertly exploring the meaning of the words used in French cooking. His writing was acknowledged in 2019 with a prize for his article on stockfish awarded by the state-funded tourist agency,
Atout France Atout France, the France Tourism Development Agency (formerly Maison de la France, the French National Tourist Office), is the French organisation responsible for promoting France as a tourism Tourism is travel for pleasure or business; also ...
.Graham played a founding part in the establishment of Mourjou's chestnut museum, the Maison de la Châtaigne. Housed in what had been Graham's barn, the museum is dedicated to celebrating and reviving the culture of a local speciality, Mourjou being set in the hilly, chestnut-covered area of '' La Châtaigneraie'' (
Cantal Cantal (; oc, Cantal or ) is a Departments of France, department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Regions of France, region of France, with its Prefectures in France, prefecture in Aurillac. Its other principal towns are Saint-Flour, Cantal, Saint ...
). A tribute to his active local involvement, Graham officiated for many years as the first honorary Grand Maître de la Châtaigne. On 23 October 2022, the square on which Peter Graham lived in the village of Mourjou (now part of the Commune of
Puycapel Puycapel () is a commune in the Cantal department in south-central France. It was established on 1 January 2019 by merger of the former communes of Calvinet and Mourjou.Peter Graham’s blog ''Chez Gram'', about culinary and gastronomic terms

La Maison de la Châtaigne (Chestnut museum) in Mourjou, France

''A Shilling Life'' (1963), on the East Anglian Film Archive

''Au Bout des Fusils'' (1971), on Youtube


{{DEFAULTSORT:Graham, Peter 1939 births 2020 deaths British food writers