Nathu La
(, ) is a
mountain pass in the
Dongkya Range
Dongkya or Dongkhya range, is a mountain range in the lower Himalayas that forms the eastern border of Sikkim, currently a state of India. Its northern tip extends to Dongkha La, and as it moves southwards, sometimes referred to as the Chola ra ...
of the
Himalayas
The Himalayas, or Himalaya (; ; ), is a mountain range in Asia, separating the plains of the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau. The range has some of the planet's highest peaks, including the very highest, Mount Everest. Over 10 ...
between China's
Yadong County
Yadong County (),
also known by its Tibetan name Dromo/Tromo County ()
is a frontier county and trade-market of the Tibet region of China, part of its Shigatse Prefecture.
Yadong County is coextensive with the Chumbi valley that extends sout ...
in
Tibet
Tibet (; ''Böd''; ) is a region in East Asia, covering much of the Tibetan Plateau and spanning about . It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people. Also resident on the plateau are some other ethnic groups such as Monpa, Taman ...
, and the Indian states of
Sikkim
Sikkim (; ) is a state in Northeastern India. It borders the Tibet Autonomous Region of China in the north and northeast, Bhutan in the east, Province No. 1 of Nepal in the west and West Bengal in the south. Sikkim is also close to the Silig ...
and
West Bengal
West Bengal (, Bengali: ''Poshchim Bongo'', , abbr. WB) is a state in the eastern portion of India. It is situated along the Bay of Bengal, along with a population of over 91 million inhabitants within an area of . West Bengal is the fou ...
in
Bengal
Bengal ( ; bn, বাংলা/বঙ্গ, translit=Bānglā/Bôngô, ) is a geopolitical, cultural and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the eastern part of the Indian subcontinent at the apex of the Bay of Bengal, predom ...
,
South Asia
South Asia is the southern subregion of Asia, which is defined in both geographical
Geography (from Greek: , ''geographia''. Combination of Greek words ‘Geo’ (The Earth) and ‘Graphien’ (to describe), literally "earth descr ...
. The pass, at , connects the towns of
Kalimpong and
Gangtok to the villages and towns of the lower
Chumbi Valley
The Chumbi Valley, called Dromo or Tromo in Tibetan,
is a valley in the Himalayas that projects southwards from the Tibetan plateau, intervening between Sikkim and Bhutan. It is coextensive with the administrative unit Yadong County in the T ...
.
The pass was surveyed by
J. W. Edgar in 1873, who described the pass as being used for trade by Tibetans.
Francis Younghusband
Lieutenant Colonel Sir Francis Edward Younghusband, (31 May 1863 – 31 July 1942) was a British Army officer, explorer, and spiritual writer. He is remembered for his travels in the Far East and Central Asia; especially the 1904 British ...
used the pass in 1903-1904, a diplomatic British delegation to Lhasa in 1936-37, and
Ernst Schäfer
Ernst Schäfer (14 March 1910 – 21 July 1992) was a German explorer, hunter and zoologist in the 1930s, specializing in ornithology. His zoological explorations in Tibet served as a cover for his role in the German secret service. He was also ...
in 1938–1939. In the 1950s, trade in the
Kingdom of Sikkim
The Kingdom of Sikkim (Classical Tibetan and sip, འབྲས་ལྗོངས།, ''Drenjong''), officially Dremoshong (Classical Tibetan and sip, འབྲས་མོ་གཤོངས།) until the 1800s, was a hereditary monar ...
utilized this pass. Diplomatically sealed by China and India after the 1962
Sino-Indian War
The Sino-Indian War took place between China and India from October to November 1962, as a major flare-up of the Sino-Indian border dispute. There had been a series of violent border skirmishes between the two countries after the 1959 Tibet ...
, the pass saw skirmishes between the two countries in coming years, including the
clashes in 1967 which resulted in fatalities on both sides. Nathu La has often been compared to
Jelep La
Jelep La (; ) elevation , is a high mountain pass between Sikkim, India and Tibet Autonomous Region, China. It is on a route that connects Lhasa to India. The pass is about south of Nathu La and is slightly higher. It was frequently used for t ...
, a mountain pass situated at a distance of 3 miles (4.8 km).
The next few decades saw an improvement in ties leading to the re-opening of Nathu La in 2006. The opening of the pass provides an alternative route to the pilgrimage of
Mount Kailash
Mount Kailash (also Kailasa; ''Kangrinboqê'' or ''Gang Rinpoche''; Tibetan: གངས་རིན་པོ་ཆེ; ; sa, कैलास, ), is a mountain in the Ngari Prefecture, Tibet Autonomous Region of China. It has an altitude of ...
and
Lake Manasarovar
Lake Manasarovar (Sanskrit: मानसरोवर), also called Mapam Yutso (;) locally, is a high altitude freshwater lake fed by the Kailash Glaciers near Mount Kailash in Burang County, Ngari Prefecture, Tibet Autonomous Region, China. The ...
, and was expected to bolster the economy of the region by playing a key role in the growing Sino-Indian trade. However, while trade has had a net positive impact, it under-performed, and is limited to specific types of goods and to specific days of the week. Weather conditions including heavy snowfall restricts border trade to around 7 to 8 months.
Roads to the pass have been improved on both sides. Rail routes have been brought closer. It is part of the domestic tourist circuit in south-east Sikkim. Soldiers from both sides posted at Nathu La are among the closest along the entire Sino-India border. It is also one of the five
Border Personnel Meeting points between the two armies of both countries.
2020 border tensions and the
coronavirus pandemic
The COVID-19 pandemic, also known as the coronavirus pandemic, is an ongoing global pandemic of coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) caused by severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2). The novel virus was first identifie ...
has affected tourism and movement across the pass.
Name and meaning
The name "Nathu La" is traditionally interpreted as "the whistling pass", or more commonly as the "listening ears pass".
[
] The Chinese government explains it as "a place where snow is deepest and the wind strongest".
According to
G. S. Bajpai, it means "flat ground from where the hill features gradually rise to right and left". Lepcha people who are native to the region call it ma-tho hlo/na tho lo; which may have possibly evolved to the present usage of the word.
Geography
![1923_SoI_map_of_lower_Chumbi_Valley](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/07/1923_SoI_map_of_lower_Chumbi_Valley.jpg)
Nathu La is a mountain pass on the
Dongkya Range
Dongkya or Dongkhya range, is a mountain range in the lower Himalayas that forms the eastern border of Sikkim, currently a state of India. Its northern tip extends to Dongkha La, and as it moves southwards, sometimes referred to as the Chola ra ...
that separates Sikkim and the Chumbi Valley at an elevation of .
[
: "For this, the Nathu Pass (14,250 feet), a goat-track, 10 miles to the north of the Jelep and over the same ridge, was opened out by Mr White."
] The pass is east of
Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim,
[
] and from
Yatung Shasima
Yatung or Yadong, also known as Shasima (, ),
is the principal town in the Chumbi Valley or Yadong County in the
Tibet Autonomous Region of China. It is also its administrative headquarters.
Name
The village is known locally as Shasima (''Shar ...
, the headquarters of the
Yadong County
Yadong County (),
also known by its Tibetan name Dromo/Tromo County ()
is a frontier county and trade-market of the Tibet region of China, part of its Shigatse Prefecture.
Yadong County is coextensive with the Chumbi valley that extends sout ...
(or the
Chumbi Valley
The Chumbi Valley, called Dromo or Tromo in Tibetan,
is a valley in the Himalayas that projects southwards from the Tibetan plateau, intervening between Sikkim and Bhutan. It is coextensive with the administrative unit Yadong County in the T ...
).
Nathu La is one of the three frequently-used passes between Sikkim and the Chumbi Valley, the other two being
Cho La and
Jelep La
Jelep La (; ) elevation , is a high mountain pass between Sikkim, India and Tibet Autonomous Region, China. It is on a route that connects Lhasa to India. The pass is about south of Nathu La and is slightly higher. It was frequently used for t ...
. Historically, Nathu La served Gangtok, while Cho La served the former Sikkim capital
Tumlong
Tumlong is a village in the Indian state of Sikkim in northeastern India. It is located in the Mangan sub division of North Sikkim district. it is on the bank of the Dik Chu river, a tributary of the Teesta River.
Tumlong was the capital of th ...
and Jelep La served
Kalimpong in West Bengal. Nathu La is mere northwest of Jelep La, as the crow flies,
[
] but the travel distance could be as much as .
On the Tibetan side, the Chola route led to
Chumbi, the Nathu La route led to a village called
Chema and the Jelep La route led to
Rinchengang
Rinchengang
: "By order of Military Control Commission freedom of movement is not being permitted to our Trade Agents even in the vicinity where the Trade Agencies are located. For example the I.T.A. Yatung was not permitted to go to Rinchengang, ...
, all in the lower Chumbi Valley.
Even today, heavy snowfall causes the closure of the pass, with temperatures as low as and strong winds.
History
The Nathu La and Jelep La passes were part of the trade routes of the
British Empire
The British Empire was composed of the dominions, colonies, protectorates, mandates, and other territories ruled or administered by the United Kingdom and its predecessor states. It began with the overseas possessions and trading posts e ...
during the
19th
19 (nineteen) is the natural number following 18 and preceding 20. It is a prime number.
Mathematics
19 is the eighth prime number, and forms a sexy prime with 13, a twin prime with 17, and a cousin prime with 23. It is the third full re ...
and early
20th century.
British Empire
The British Raj
brought the Kingdom of Sikkim under their protectorate in 1861 and wished to promote trade with Tibet through Sikkim.
In 1873,
J. W. Edgar, the
Deputy Commissioner at
Darjeeling
Darjeeling (, , ) is a town and municipality in the northernmost region of the Indian state of West Bengal. Located in the Eastern Himalayas, it has an average elevation of . To the west of Darjeeling lies the easternmost province of Nepal ...
, was asked to investigate the trading conditions and make recommendations for a preferred route. Edgar reported active trade running through the Nathu La pass ("Gnatui pass" in his terminology), which was linked to Gangtok as well as Darjeeling.
The traders found significantly higher value for their goods at Darjeeling than at Gangtok. However, Edgar preferred the neighbouring Jelep La pass on physical grounds, and recommended building a road to that pass along with a trade mart close to it.
Edgar wrote,
In 1903-1904
Francis Younghusband
Lieutenant Colonel Sir Francis Edward Younghusband, (31 May 1863 – 31 July 1942) was a British Army officer, explorer, and spiritual writer. He is remembered for his travels in the Far East and Central Asia; especially the 1904 British ...
led a British military
expedition into Lhasa consisting of 1,150 soldiers and over 10,000 support staff and pack animals. The first choice of crossing into the Chumbi Valley had been a pass north of Nathu La, the Yak La. Yak La provided the shortest route from Gangtok to Sikkim's eastern frontier, however the eastern descent proved too steep and dangerous. Both Nathu La and Jelep La were used by the expedition, with Nathu La becoming the main communication channel.
In 1936-37, a diplomatic British delegation to Lhasa including
B. J. Gould and
F. S. Chapman used the Nathu La pass. Chapman writes that during their journey from Gangtok to Nathu la, just at the foot of the pass, was a road leading to the right and a signbord indicating
Kupup
Kupup is a hamlet in the Indian state of Sikkim near the border with China. It lies in a transverse valley below the Dongkya Range, close to the Jelep La pass. A nearby moraine ridge across the valley forms part of the watershed between the Tees ...
. This route would have put them onto the Kalimpong-Lhasa route via Jelep La. Chapman writes that "From Gangtok the mule-track starts for the Natu La, and from Kalimpong the longer and more difficult road leaves for the Jelep La. By these two passes the road from Lhasa crosses the main range of the Himalaya on its way to India..." Chapman goes on to write that from the summit of the pass, if it were not for the mist, the delegation would have been able to see
Chomolhari
Jomolhari or Chomolhari (; ) sometimes known as "the bride of Kangchenjunga”, is a mountain in the Himalayas, straddling the border between Yadong County of Tibet, China and the Paro district of Bhutan. The north face rises over above the ba ...
. At the summit, Chapman writes of groups of stones and
prayer flags
A Tibetan prayer flag is a colorful rectangular cloth, often found strung along trails and peaks high in the Himalayas. They are used to bless the surrounding countryside and for other purposes. Prayer flags are believed to have originated withi ...
— these were not only for the protection of travelers, but they marked the boundary between Sikkim and Tibet. The road near the pass was paved with stones. The first stop after the pass was Champithang, a resting place for the British on the way to Lhasa.
![Bundesarchiv Bild 135-S-07-06-26, Tibetexpedition, Überquerung eines Passes](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ab/Bundesarchiv_Bild_135-S-07-06-26%2C_Tibetexpedition%2C_%C3%9Cberquerung_eines_Passes.jpg)
In 1938–1939
Ernst Schäfer
Ernst Schäfer (14 March 1910 – 21 July 1992) was a German explorer, hunter and zoologist in the 1930s, specializing in ornithology. His zoological explorations in Tibet served as a cover for his role in the German secret service. He was also ...
led a
German expedition to Tibet legally via Nathu La on the orders of
Heinrich Himmler
Heinrich Luitpold Himmler (; 7 October 1900 – 23 May 1945) was of the (Protection Squadron; SS), and a leading member of the Nazi Party of Germany. Himmler was one of the most powerful men in Nazi Germany and a main architect of th ...
. This expedition also came across no gates or barriers at the pass, the border; only a ''
ladze,'' prayer flags and a
cairn.
Post founding of PRC and independent India
In 1949, when the Tibetan government expelled the Chinese living there, most of the displaced Chinese returned home through the Nathu La–Sikkim–Kolkata route.
The
Kingdom of Sikkim
The Kingdom of Sikkim (Classical Tibetan and sip, འབྲས་ལྗོངས།, ''Drenjong''), officially Dremoshong (Classical Tibetan and sip, འབྲས་མོ་གཤོངས།) until the 1800s, was a hereditary monar ...
had flourishing trade during the 1950s. Calcutta was linked with Lhasa via Chumbi Valley, with Nathu La being one of the main routes for passage. The majority of trade between China and India during those years was via this route.
Some traders from India even set up their shop in Yadong.
Goods exported to China included medicines, fuel, and disassembled cars. India imported wool and silk.
Mules and horses would be the main transit vehicle during those years.
Construction to make the Gangtok–Nathu La road motorable started in 1954.
It was completed and formally opened in the presence of the
Maharaja of Sikkim by Jawaharlal Nehru on 17 September 1958.
At the time the motorable road ended at Sherathang.
However, the Chinese did not take up the construction of the road on their side at the time.
The Dalai Lama,
Tenzin Gyatso
The 14th Dalai Lama (spiritual name Jetsun Jamphel Ngawang Lobsang Yeshe Tenzin Gyatso, known as Tenzin Gyatso (Tibetan: བསྟན་འཛིན་རྒྱ་མཚོ་, Wylie: ''bsTan-'dzin rgya-mtsho''); né Lhamo Thondup), known as ...
, used this pass to travel to India for the 2,500th birthday celebration of
Gautama Buddha
Siddhartha Gautama, most commonly referred to as the Buddha, was a wandering ascetic and religious teacher who lived in South Asia during the 6th or 5th century BCE and founded Buddhism.
According to Buddhist tradition, he was born in Lu ...
, in the autumn of 1956.
![1965 Sikkim (30249403143)](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/05/1965_Sikkim_%2830249403143%29.jpg)
After the
People's Republic of China
China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. It is the world's most populous country, with a population exceeding 1.4 billion, slightly ahead of India. China spans the equivalent of five time zones and ...
took control of Tibet in 1950 and suppressed a
Tibetan uprising in 1959, the passes into Sikkim became a conduit for refugees from Tibet. During the 1962
Sino-Indian War
The Sino-Indian War took place between China and India from October to November 1962, as a major flare-up of the Sino-Indian border dispute. There had been a series of violent border skirmishes between the two countries after the 1959 Tibet ...
, Nathu La witnessed skirmishes between soldiers of the two countries. Shortly thereafter, the passage was sealed and remained closed for more than four decades.
During the
Indo-Pakistani War of 1965, China exerted pressure on India diplomatically and militarily. In September 1965, China reinforced Yatung and nearby mountain passes with another infantry regiment. India also had a build-up in this area. On the south-eastern front of Sikkim the four passes of Nathu La, Jelep La, Cho La and Dongju had 9, 37, 1 and 9 Indian positions respectively. This build-up was influenced by the region's proximity to East Pakistan, and the tensions that remained following the 1962 war. Following Chinese pressure, Indian troops at Nathu La and Jelep La received orders to withdraw. Nathu La was under Major General
Sagat Singh
Lieutenant General Sagat Singh, PVSM (14 July 1919 – 26 September 2001) was a General Officer in the Indian Army notable for his participation in liberation of Goa and later in Bangladesh. He held many commands and staff appointments througho ...
and he refused to withdraw. As a result, in the coming few days, Jelep La was occupied by the Chinese while Nathu La remained defended under India.
The coming months saw both sides tussle over dominance in Chumbi Valley. Numerous Indian incursions were reported by Chinese sources. At Nathu La,
differing perceptions of the Line of Actual Control among frontline troops on both sides factored in to the increasing tensions. Trench digging, laying of barbed wires, patrolling, celebrating Independence Day, every action became contentious. Between 7 and 13 September 1967, China's People's Liberation Army (PLA) and the Indian Army had a number of
border clashes at Nathu La and Cho La, including the exchange of heavy artillery fire.
Numerous casualties were reported on both sides.
In
1975
It was also declared the ''International Women's Year'' by the United Nations and the European Architectural Heritage Year by the Council of Europe.
Events
January
* January 1 - Watergate scandal (United States): John N. Mitchell, H. R. ...
, following a
referendum
A referendum (plural: referendums or less commonly referenda) is a direct vote by the electorate on a proposal, law, or political issue. This is in contrast to an issue being voted on by a representative. This may result in the adoption of a ...
, Sikkim acceded to India and Nathu La became part of Indian territory. China, however, refused to acknowledge the accession, but the two armies continued to maintain informal communication at the border despite the freeze in diplomatic relations. In 1988 the visit of Prime Minister
Rajiv Gandhi to China marked the beginning of fresh talks between the two countries.
2006 re-opening
In 2003, with the thawing of
Sino-Indian relations, Indian Prime Minister
Atal Bihari Vajpayee's visit to China led to the resumption of talks on opening the border. The border agreements signed in 2003 were pursuant to the "Memorandum on the Resumption of Border Trade" signed in December 1991, and "Protocol on Entry and Exit Procedures for Border Trade" signed in July 1992. The 2003 "Memorandum on Expanding Border Trade" made applicable and expanded the provisions of the 1991 and 1992 agreements to Nathu La.
In August 2003, the Chief Minister of Sikkim
Pawan Chamling
Pawan Kumar Chamling (born 22 September 1949) is an Indian politician and the former Chief Minister of Sikkim. Chamling is the Founding President of the Sikkim Democratic Front, which governed the state for five successive terms since 1994.
Ch ...
shook hands with a PLA soldier along the border and followed it up by giving his wristwatch. The PLA soldier in return gave the Chief Minister a packet of cigarettes. This signaled the return of trade to Nathu La. The formal opening was postponed a number of times between mid-2004 to mid-2006. Finally, after remaining sealed for decades, Nathu La was officially opened on 6 July 2006,
becoming one of the three open trading border posts between China and India at the time, the other two being
Shipki La
__NOTOC__
Shipki La is a mountain pass and border post with a dozen buildings of significant size on the India-China border. The river Sutlej, which is called Langqên Zangbo in Tibet, enters India (from Tibet) near this pass. A spur road on th ...
and
Lipulekh pass
Lipulekh () is a Himalayan pass in Kalapani territory is on the border of India, Nepal and China. It is one of the routes for the pilgrimage to Mount Kailash and Mansarovar in Tibet, China.
Tourism
This pass links the Byans valley of Uttarakh ...
.
The reopening, which was a part of a number of political moves by China and India with regard to the formal recognition of Tibet and Sikkim as part of either country respectively,
coincided with the birthday of the reigning
Dalai Lama
Dalai Lama (, ; ) is a title given by the Tibetan people to the foremost spiritual leader of the Gelug or "Yellow Hat" school of Tibetan Buddhism, the newest and most dominant of the four major schools of Tibetan Buddhism. The 14th and current D ...
.
The opening of the pass was marked by a ceremony on the
India
India, officially the Republic of India (Hindi: ), is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by area, the second-most populous country, and the most populous democracy in the world. Bounded by the Indian Ocean on the so ...
n side that was attended by officials from both countries. A delegation of 100 traders from each side crossed the border to respective trading towns. Despite heavy rain and chilly winds, the ceremony was marked by the attendance of many officials, locals, and international and local media.
The barbed wire fence between India and China was replaced by a 10 m (30 ft) wide stone-walled passageway.
2006 was also marked as the year of Sino-Indian friendship.
It has been postulated that the reasons for opening the pass on both sides included economic and strategic ones, including that of stabilizing the borderlands.
The narrative surrounding the reopening of the pass highlighted border trade, the ancient
silk road, and the ancient linkages between the two "civilisations".
Anthropologist Tina Harris explains that this state-based narrative diverged from the regional narrative. While silk had been one of the commodities traded, this region saw a much larger trade of wool. A trader told Harris that the route should have been called the "wool route". Harris explains that this narrative of Nathu La rather highlighted the "contemporary global discourse"— that of a globalising and inter-connected Asia finding its place in the world, of which Sikkim and Chumbi Valley were a part.
Post 2006
Nathu La is one of the five officially agreed
Border Personnel Meeting (BPM) points between the
Indian Army
The Indian Army is the land-based branch and the largest component of the Indian Armed Forces. The President of India is the Supreme Commander of the Indian Army, and its professional head is the Chief of Army Staff (COAS), who is a four- ...
and the
People's Liberation Army of China for regular consultations and interactions between the two armies.
[
]
During the
2008 Tibetan unrest
8 (eight) is the natural number following 7 and preceding 9.
In mathematics
8 is:
* a composite number, its proper divisors being , , and . It is twice 4 or four times 2.
* a power of two, being 2 (two cubed), and is the first number o ...
, hundreds of Tibetans in India marched to and protested at Nathu La.
In 2009,
Narendra Modi
Narendra Damodardas Modi (; born 17 September 1950) is an Indian politician serving as the 14th and current Prime Minister of India since 2014. Modi was the Chief Minister of Gujarat from 2001 to 2014 and is the Member of Parliament fro ...
, as the
Chief Minister of Gujarat
The Chief Minister of Gujarat is the chief executive of the government of the Indian state of Gujarat. The governor appoints the chief minister, whose council of ministers are collectively responsible to the assembly. The chief minister's ter ...
, visited the pass.
In 2010, the
Queen's Baton Relay
The Queen's Baton Relay is a relay around the world held prior to the beginning of the Commonwealth Games. The Baton carries a message from the Head of the Commonwealth, currently King Charles III. The Relay traditionally begins at Buckingh ...
for the
Commonwealth Games
The Commonwealth Games, often referred to as the Friendly Games or simply the Comm Games, are a quadrennial international multi-sport event among athletes from the Commonwealth of Nations. The event was first held in 1930, and, with the exce ...
that year also stopped at main trade gate at the pass.
In 2015, Nathu La opened for tourists and pilgrims going to
Kailash Mansarovar
Lake Manasarovar (Sanskrit: मानसरोवर), also called Mapam Yutso (;) locally, is a high altitude freshwater lake fed by the Kailash Glaciers near Mount Kailash in Burang County, Ngari Prefecture, Tibet Autonomous Region, China. The ...
.
Amidst the
2017 China–India border standoff centered around
Doklam
Doklam (),
called Donglang () by China, is an area in Bhutan with a high plateau and a valley, lying between China's Chumbi Valley to the north, Bhutan's Ha District to the east and India's Sikkim state to the west. It has been depicted as p ...
, the pilgrimage via Nathu La was cancelled. The border tensions also affected trade through the pass.
The standoff officially ended at the end of August 2017;
[
] and in October India's Defence Minister
Nirmala Sitharaman
Nirmala Sitharaman (born 18 August 1959) is an Indian economist and politician serving as the Minister of Finance and Corporate Affairs of India since 2019. She is a member of the Rajya Sabha, upper house of the Indian Parliament, since 2014. ...
made a goodwill visit to Nathu La, also briefly interacting with Chinese soldiers at the pass. In 2018, a "Special Border Personnel meeting" took place at the pass to mark the foundation day of the PLA.
On
Yoga Day in 2019, Chinese soldiers and civilians participated in joint yoga exercises at Nathu La.
In 2019 road conditions impacted movement across the pass.
[
] In April 2020, following the
coronavirus pandemic
The COVID-19 pandemic, also known as the coronavirus pandemic, is an ongoing global pandemic of coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) caused by severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2). The novel virus was first identifie ...
, the Sikkim government closed the pass.
[
] The Kailash-Mansarovar pilgrimage through Nathu La would also remain shut.
Further, fresh political and
border tensions and skirmishes in 2020 also affected trade.
This coronavirus pandemic–border tension situation continued into 2021, impacting movement across the pass.
Flora and fauna
![Nathu La Fauna 1](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e9/Nathu_La_Fauna_1.jpg)
In 1910 Scottish botanist
W. W. Smith visited the area. Vegetation he listed included species of ''
Caltha scaposa'', ''
Cochlearia
''Cochlearia'' (scurvy-grass or spoonwort) is a genus of about 30 species of annual and perennial herbs in the family Brassicaceae. They are widely distributed in temperate and arctic areas of the northern hemisphere, most commonly found in co ...
'', ''
Potentilla
''Potentilla'' is a genus containing over 300Guillén, A., et al. (2005)Reproductive biology of the Iberian species of ''Potentilla'' L. (Rosaceae).''Anales del Jardín Botánico de Madrid'' 1(62) 9–21. species of annual, biennial and perenni ...
,
Saussurea
''Saussurea'' is a genus of about 300 species of flowering plants in the tribe Cardueae within the family Asteraceae, native to cool temperate and arctic regions of East Asia, Europe, and North America, with the highest diversity in alpine habit ...
'', ''
Rhododendron'', ''
Cassiope
Cascade, Smallsat and Ionospheric Polar Explorer (CASSIOPE), is a Canadian Space Agency (CSA) multi-mission satellite operated by the University of Calgary. The mission development and operations from launch to February 2018 was funded through ...
'', ''
Primula
''Primula'' () is a genus of herbaceous flowering plants in the family Primulaceae. They include the primrose ('' P. vulgaris''), a familiar wildflower of banks and verges. Other common species are '' P. auricula'' (auricula), '' P. veris'' (cow ...
'', ''
Corydalis'',
''Arenaria'', ''
Saxifraga
''Saxifraga'' is the largest genus in the family Saxifragaceae, containing about 465 species of holarctic perennial plants, known as saxifrages or rockfoils. The Latin word ''saxifraga'' means literally "stone-breaker", from Latin ' ("rock" or " ...
,
Chrysosplenium,
Pimpinella
''Pimpinella'' is a plant genus in the family Apiaceae; it includes the aromatic herb anise ''( P. anisum)''.Cyananthus
''Cyananthus'' is a genus of flowering plants that consists of about 30 species of annual or mostly perennial
A perennial plant or simply perennial is a plant that lives more than two years. The term ('' per-'' + '' -ennial'', "through th ...
,
Campanula,
Androsace
''Androsace'', commonly known as rock jasmine, is a genus of flowering plants in the family Primulaceae, second only to ''Primula'' in the number of species. It is predominantly Arctic–alpine, with many species in the Himalayas (where the genu ...
,
Eritrichium
''Eritrichium'' (alpine forget-me-not) is a genus of flowering plants in the family Boraginaceae. It contains 78 species. Notable members include '' Eritrichium howardii'' and ''Eritrichium nanum''.
Its native range stretches from temperate Eura ...
,
Lagotis'' and ''
Salvia
''Salvia'' () is the largest genus of plants in the sage family Lamiaceae, with nearly 1000 species of shrubs, herbaceous perennials, and annuals. Within the Lamiaceae, ''Salvia'' is part of the tribe Mentheae within the subfamily Nepetoi ...
''. ''Rhododendrons nobile'' and marmots have been seen on the ascent of the pass.
Because of the steep elevation increase around the pass, the vegetation graduates from
sub-tropical
The subtropical zones or subtropics are geographical and climate zones to the north and south of the tropics. Geographically part of the temperate zones of both hemispheres, they cover the middle latitudes from to approximately 35° north a ...
forest at its base, to a temperate region, to a wet and dry
alpine climate
Alpine climate is the typical weather (climate) for elevations above the tree line, where trees fail to grow due to cold. This climate is also referred to as a mountain climate or highland climate.
Definition
There are multiple definitions o ...
, and finally to cold
tundra
In physical geography, tundra () is a type of biome where tree growth is hindered by frigid temperatures and short growing seasons. The term ''tundra'' comes through Russian (') from the Kildin Sámi word (') meaning "uplands", "treeless mou ...
desert devoid of vegetation. Around Nathu La and the Tibetan side, the region has little vegetation besides scattered shrubs. Major species found in the region include dwarf
rhododendrons (''
Rhododendron anthopogon'', ''
R. setosum'') and
junipers. The meadows include the genera ''
Poa'', ''
Meconopsis'', ''
Pedicularis
''Pedicularis'' is a genus of perennial green root parasite plants currently placed in the family Orobanchaceae (the genus previously having been placed in Scrophulariaceae '' sensu lato'').
Description
Between 350 and 600 species are acce ...
'', ''
Primula
''Primula'' () is a genus of herbaceous flowering plants in the family Primulaceae. They include the primrose ('' P. vulgaris''), a familiar wildflower of banks and verges. Other common species are '' P. auricula'' (auricula), '' P. veris'' (cow ...
'', and ''
Aconitum''. The region has a four-month growing season during which grasses,
sedges
The Cyperaceae are a family of graminoid (grass-like), monocotyledonous flowering plants known as sedges. The family is large, with some 5,500 known species described in about 90 genera, the largest being the "true sedges" genus ''Carex'' wit ...
, and
medicinal herb
Medicinal plants, also called medicinal herbs, have been discovered and used in traditional medicine practices since prehistoric times. Plants synthesize hundreds of chemical compounds for various functions, including defense and protection ag ...
s grow abundantly and support a host of insects, wild and domestic herbivores, larks, and finches. The nearby
Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary is a nature reserve in Gangtok district, Sikkim, India. It is situated around the area adjoining the Tsomgo (Changu) lake along the Nathula Road. Located about east of Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim, this sanctuary ...
has rare, endangered
ground orchida and rhododendrons interspersed among tall junipers and
silver fir
Silver fir is a common name for several trees and may refer to:
*''Abies alba
''Abies alba'', the European silver fir or silver fir, is a fir native to the mountains of Europe, from the Pyrenees north to Normandy, east to the Alps and the Car ...
s.
There are no permanent human settlements in the region, though it has a large number of defence personnel who man the borders on both sides. A small number of nomadic Tibetan graziers or ''Dokpas'' herd yak, sheep and
pashmina
Pashmina (, ) refers to, depending on the source, a term for cashmere wool of the Changthangi cashmere goat,Janet Rizvi: ''Pashmina: The Kashmir Shawl and Beyond''. Marg Foundation, 2009. ISBN 978-8185026909. for fine Indian cashmere woolRobert ...
-type goats in the region. There has been intense grazing pressure due to domestic and wild herbivores on the land. Yaks are found in these parts, and in many hamlets they serve as
beasts of burden. The region around Nathu La contains many endangered species, including
Tibetan gazelle
The goa (''Procapra picticaudata''), also known as the Tibetan gazelle, is a species of antelope that inhabits the Tibetan plateau.
Description
The goa is a relatively small antelope, with slender and graceful bodies. Both males and females st ...
,
snow leopard
The snow leopard (''Panthera uncia''), also known as the ounce, is a felid in the genus '' Panthera'' native to the mountain ranges of Central and South Asia. It is listed as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List because the global population is es ...
,
Tibetan wolf
The Himalayan wolf (''Canis lupus chanco'') is a canine of debated taxonomy. It is distinguished by its genetic markers, with mitochondrial DNA indicating that it is genetically basal to the Holarctic gray wolf, genetically the same wolf as the ...
,
Tibetan snowcock
The Tibetan snowcock (''Tetraogallus tibetanus'') is a bird in the pheasant family Phasianidae of the order Galliformes, gallinaceous birds. This species is found in high-altitude regions of the Western Himalayas and the Tibetan Plateau, where i ...
,
lammergeier
The bearded vulture (''Gypaetus barbatus''), also known as the lammergeier and ossifrage, is a very large bird of prey and the only member of the genus ''Gypaetus''. Traditionally considered an Old World vulture, it actually forms a separate m ...
,
raven,
golden eagle
The golden eagle (''Aquila chrysaetos'') is a bird of prey living in the Northern Hemisphere. It is the most widely distributed species of eagle. Like all eagles, it belongs to the family Accipitridae. They are one of the best-known birds of ...
, and
ruddy shelduck.
Feral dog
A free-ranging dog is a dog that is not confined to a yard or house. Free-ranging dogs include street dogs, village dogs, stray dogs, feral dogs, etc., and may be owned or unowned. The global dog population is estimated to be 900 million, of ...
s are considered a major hazard in this region. The presence of
landmine
A land mine is an explosive weapon, explosive device concealed under or on the ground and designed to destroy or disable enemy targets, ranging from combatants to vehicles and tanks, as they pass over or near it. Such a device is typically d ...
s in the area causes casualties among yak,
nayan,
kiang
The kiang (''Equus kiang'') is the largest of the '' Asinus'' subgenus. It is native to the Tibetan Plateau, where it inhabits montane and alpine grasslands. Its current range is restricted to the plains of the Tibetan plateau; Ladakh; and nort ...
, and Tibetan wolf.
The avifauna consists of various types of
laughing thrushes, which live in shrubs and on the forest floor. The
blue whistling-thrush,
redstarts, and
forktail
The forktails are small insectivorous birds in the genus ''Enicurus''. They were formerly in the thrush family, Turdidae, but are more often now treated as part of the Old World flycatcher family, Muscicapidae. Their name derives from their lo ...
s are found near waterfalls and hill-streams. The mixed hunting species present in the region include
warbler
Various Passeriformes (perching birds) are commonly referred to as warblers. They are not necessarily closely related to one another, but share some characteristics, such as being fairly small, vocal, and insectivorous.
Sylvioid warblers
Th ...
s,
tit-babblers,
treecreeper
The treecreepers are a family, Certhiidae, of small passerine birds, widespread in wooded regions of the Northern Hemisphere and sub-Saharan Africa. The family contains eleven species in two genera, '' Certhia'' and '' Salpornis''. Their plumage ...
s,
white-eye
The white-eyes are a family, Zosteropidae, of small passerine birds native to tropical, subtropical and temperate Sub-Saharan Africa, southern and eastern Asia, and Australasia. White-eyes inhabit most tropical islands in the Indian Ocean, the ...
s,
wrens, and
rose finches.
Raptors such as
black eagle
The black eagle (''Ictinaetus malaiensis'') is a bird of prey. Like all eagles, it is in the family Accipitridae, and is the only member of the genus ''Ictinaetus''. They soar over forests in the hilly regions of tropical and subtropical South ...
,
black-winged kite
The black-winged kite (''Elanus caeruleus''), also known as the black-shouldered kite (not to be confused with the closely-related Australian species of the same name), is a small diurnal bird of prey in the family Accipitridae best known for it ...
and
kestrel
The term kestrel (from french: crécerelle, derivative from , i.e. ratchet) is the common name given to several species of predatory birds from the falcon genus ''Falco''. Kestrels are most easily distinguished by their typical hunting behaviou ...
s; and
pheasant
Pheasants ( ) are birds of several genera within the family Phasianidae in the order Galliformes. Although they can be found all over the world in introduced (and captive) populations, the pheasant genera native range is restricted to Eurasia ...
s such as
monals and
blood pheasant
The blood pheasant (''Ithaginis cruentus''), also known as blood partridge, is the only species in genus ''Ithaginis'' of the pheasant family. It is a relatively small, short-tailed pheasant that is widespread and is fairly common in eastern Him ...
are also found.
Economy
Trade
Up until 1962, before the pass was sealed, goods such as pens, watches, cereals, cotton cloth, edible oils, soaps, building materials, and dismantled scooters and four-wheelers were exported to Tibet through the pass on mule-back. Two hundred mules, each carrying about of load, were used to ferry goods from Gangtok to Lhasa, which used to take 20–25 days. Upon return, silk, raw wool, musk pods, medicinal plants, country liquor, precious stones, gold, and silverware were imported into India.
Most of the trade in those days was carried out by the
Marwari community, which owned 95% of the 200 authorised firms.
The Nathu La Trade Study Group (NTSG) was set up by the
state government of Sikkim in 2003 to study the scope of
border trade
Border trade, in general, refers to the flow of goods and services across the border between different jurisdictions. In this sense, border trade is a part of the normal trade that flows through the ordinary export/import legal and logistical fram ...
in Sikkim with specific focus on Nathu La, which was scheduled to reopen. The informal group, consisting of civil servants and trade experts, was headed by
Mahendra P. Lama and submitted its report in 2005.
[
] The report laid down two projections, a "higher projection", and a "lower projection". The lower projection estimated border trade through Nathu La at by 2010, by 2015 and by 2020. The higher projection estimated border trade through Nathu La by 2015. India's
Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) gave an even higher estimation that trade could cross USD 10 billion in a decade.
These figures were also based upon policy recommendations in the paper. While the trade may not have met the study group's estimate, which 15 years later seem "over ambitious", it has benefitted the impacted areas positively. Ancillary benefits were also highlighted by the report such as revenue for truckers even with low volumes of vehicle movement. Since July 2006, trading is open Mondays through Thursdays.
In 2006 India exempted 29 items for export and 15 items for import from duty. In 2012, 12 more items were added to the list.
[
] Apart from illegal items, China did not put any restrictions on the border trade in 2006.
The reopening of the pass was expected to stimulate the economy of the region and bolster Indo-Chinese trade, however the result has been underwhelming.
In 2008,
Mahendra P. Lama commented upon the mismatch in projections and actual trade during the first two years, "this is mostly attributed to poor road conditions, nascent infrastructural facilities, limited tradable items and lukewarm attitude of the policy-makers." Road limitations also constricted the size and number of trucks that can use the route. Further, there is a large mismatch between Indian and Chinese thinking with regard to trade through Sikkim, and a large mismatch with regard to on-the-ground infrastructure development with regard to supporting trade through Nathu La. In 2010 and 2011 there were no imports from China via the pass according to Government of Sikkim data. Weather also restricts trade to about 7 to 8 months and roughly between May and November.
There were concerns among some traders in India that Indian goods would find a limited outlet in Tibet, while China would have access to a ready market in Sikkim and West Bengal.
[
] A concern of the Indian government is also the trafficking of wildlife products such as tiger and leopard skins and bones, bear gall bladders, otter pelts, and
shahtoosh
Shahtoosh (from Persian شاهتوش 'king of wools'), also known as Shatoush, is a wool obtained from the fur of the chiru (''Pantholops hodgsonii'', also called Tibetan antelope). Also, shawls made from the wool of the chiru are called shaht ...
wool into India. The Indian government has undertaken a program to sensitise the police and other law enforcement agencies in the area.
Tourism
Nathu La is part of the tourist circuit in eastern Sikkim. On the Indian side, only citizens of India can visit the pass on Thursdays to Sundays, after obtaining permits one day in advance in Gangtok. There is no '
no man's land' at the pass. Minimal military presence and barbed wire separates both sides. Tourists informally shake hands and take photographs with the Chinese soldiers and army office in the background. Only meters apart, soldiers at Nathu La are among the closest soldiers along the entire
Sino-India border. Domestic tourism at the pass was opened up in 1999.
File:NATHULA.JPG, Stairs leading to the Indian side of the border.
File:Nathu La 100.jpg, "Pass of Listening Ears"
File:Nathu La-Stairs.JPG, A visual from the stairs. The Natula memorial visible at right center.
File:SAHID SMARAK AT NATHULLA BORDER.JPG, The Natula memorial.
File:Trade Channel.jpg, The main trade road connecting both sides.
File:NATHULA2.JPG, The Chinese army office taken from the Indian Army office at the pass.
The pass provides an alternative pilgrimage route to
Mount Kailash
Mount Kailash (also Kailasa; ''Kangrinboqê'' or ''Gang Rinpoche''; Tibetan: གངས་རིན་པོ་ཆེ; ; sa, कैलास, ), is a mountain in the Ngari Prefecture, Tibet Autonomous Region of China. It has an altitude of ...
and
Lake Manasarovar
Lake Manasarovar (Sanskrit: मानसरोवर), also called Mapam Yutso (;) locally, is a high altitude freshwater lake fed by the Kailash Glaciers near Mount Kailash in Burang County, Ngari Prefecture, Tibet Autonomous Region, China. The ...
.
The route through Nathu La, as compared to the original route through Lipulekh pass, requires pilgrims to make a much easier and shorter trek. However, with new road construction by the Border Roads Organisation, the Lipulekh pass route has also been made easier.
Baba Harbhajan Singh memorial and shrine is also part of the Nathu La tourist circuit.
Mail exchange
Twice a week at 8:30 am in an exchanging lasting only 3 minutes, on Thursdays and Sundays, the international
surface mail
Surface mail, also known as sea mail, is mail that is transported by land and sea (along the ''surface'' of the earth), rather than by air, as in airmail. Surface mail is significantly less expensive but slower than airmail, and thus is preferred ...
between India and China is exchanged by postmen of the respective countries at Nathu La's
Sherathang
Sherathang is a town in East Sikkim district, Gangtok district near the Nathula Pass in Sikkim, India. The location has been identified as the site for excise, customs and checking for trade between India and People's Republic of China, China. ...
border post. While the volume of mail is declining due the advent of email and internet, it is mostly from the
Tibetan Refugees in India
Since its independence in 1947, India has accepted various groups of refugees from neighbouring countries, including partition refugees from former British Indian territories that now constitute Pakistan and Bangladesh, Tibetan refugees that ...
or among the locals with relatives on both sides of the border. This arrangement reduces the mail delivery time for the people of border areas to few days which would otherwise takes weeks to be delivered via the circuitous logistics chain. In this short exchange, no words is spoken as both sides do not understand each other's language, mail is exchanged, an acknowledgement letter is signed, sometimes empty mail bags are exchanged due to dwindling mail volume. This system, since the
times of chogyals, continues uninterrupted even during the India-China disputes at 14,000 altitude where temperature drops to .
An agreement between China and India in 1992 gave official recognition to the process.
Transport
The Gangtok–Nathu La road was first made motorable in 1958.
At the time it only existed to Sherathang after which the journey was on foot. China had not developed the road during those years.
The stretch has several sinking zones and parts are prone to landslides.
[
] The flow of vehicles is regulated and road maintenance is supported by the
Border Roads Organisation
The Border Roads Organisation (BRO) is a road construction executive force in India that provides support to and is now a part of the Indian Armed Forces. BRO develops and maintains road networks in India's border areas and friendly neighboring ...
, a wing of the Indian Army.
[
] The road has an average rise of per km over a stretch of .
Around 2006, plans were made to widen the road. Double-laning commenced in 2008. Also known as the ''JN Marg'', and later known as
National Highway (NH) 310, an alternative axis was constructed in 2020.
![Flip side of a notice on the route to Nathula](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/28/Flip_side_of_a_notice_on_the_route_to_Nathula.jpg)
2006 also marked the inauguration of a railroad from Beijing to Lhasa via the
Qinghai–Tibet line. In 2011, the railroad began to be extended to
Shigatse
Shigatse, officially known as Xigazê (; Nepali: ''सिगात्से''), is a prefecture-level city of the Tibet Autonomous Region of the People's Republic of China. Its area of jurisdiction, with an area of , corresponds to the histor ...
. There has been talk of extending the
Qinghai-Tibet Railway to
Yadong.
China National Highway 318
China National Highway 318 (G318) runs from Shanghai to Zhangmu on the China-Nepal border. It is the longest China National Highway at in length and runs west from Shanghai towards Zhejiang, Anhui, Hubei, Chongqing, Sichuan, and ends in Tibet Au ...
(
Shanghai
Shanghai (; , , Standard Mandarin pronunciation: ) is one of the four direct-administered municipalities of the People's Republic of China (PRC). The city is located on the southern estuary of the Yangtze River, with the Huangpu River flowin ...
to
Zhangmu
Zhangmu (also from Tibetan as Dram or Zham, from Nepali as Khasa) is a customs town and port of entry located in Nyalam County on the Nepal-China border, just uphill and across the Bhote Koshi River from the Nepalese town of Kodari. At above se ...
) is connected to Chumbi Valley from Shigatse via provincial road S204, about 30 km from Nathu La and Jelep La.
India had been planning an extension of rail services from
Sevoke
Sevoke (also Sevok or Sivok) is a small town near Siliguri in the Darjeeling district of West Bengal state of India near the border with Sikkim state. Situated in Dooars, Sevoke lies on the bank of River Teesta and has two bridges − namely ...
in West Bengal's
Darjeeling district
Darjeeling District is the northernmost district of the state of West Bengal in eastern India in the foothills of the Himalayas. The district is famous for its hill station and Darjeeling tea. Darjeeling is the district headquarters.
Kurse ...
to Sikkim's capital
Gangtok, from Nathu La. However the broad gauge line has been shortened to a 45 km extension to
Rangpo
Rangpo is a Municipal town in Pakyong district in the Indian state of Sikkim. The town borders West Bengal's Kalimpong district and is situated along the Teesta river and Rangpo River. It is the first town of Sikkim lying on National Highway ...
, due for completion in 2022.
[
]
Notes
References
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Nathu La
Mountain passes of Sikkim
Mountain passes of Tibet
Mountain passes of China
Mountain passes of India
China–India border crossings
Mountain passes of the Himalayas
Yadong County
Gangtok district
Tourism in Northeast India