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Liepāja (; liv, Līepõ; see other names) is a state city in western Latvia, located on the
Baltic Sea The Baltic Sea is an arm of the Atlantic Ocean that is enclosed by Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Germany, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Russia, Sweden and the North and Central European Plain. The sea stretches from 53°N to 66°N latitude and ...
. It is the largest-city in the Kurzeme Region and the third-largest city in the country after Riga and Daugavpils. It is an important
ice-free port A port is a maritime facility comprising one or more wharves or loading areas, where ships load and discharge cargo and passengers. Although usually situated on a sea coast or estuary, ports can also be found far inland, such as Ha ...
. The population in 2020 was 68,535 people. In the 19th and early 20th century, it was a favourite place for sea-bathers and travellers, with the town boasting a fine park, many pretty gardens and a theatre. Liepāja is however known throughout Latvia as "City where the wind is born", likely because of the constant sea breeze. A song of the same name ( lv, "Pilsētā, kurā piedzimst vējš") was composed by
Imants Kalniņš Imants Kalniņš (born 26 May 1941 in Riga, Latvian SSR) is a Latvian composer, musician and politician. Having studied classical and choral music, he has written seven symphonies, several operas (including the first rock opera in the USSR, ...
and has become the anthem of the city. Its reputation as the windiest city in Latvia was strengthened with the construction of the largest
wind farm A wind farm or wind park, also called a wind power station or wind power plant, is a group of wind turbines in the same location used to produce electricity. Wind farms vary in size from a small number of turbines to several hundred wind turb ...
in the nation (33
Enercon Enercon GmbH is a wind turbine manufacturer based in Aurich, Lower Saxony, Germany. It has been the market leader in Germany since the mid-1990s. Enercon has production facilities in Germany (Aurich, Emden and Magdeburg), Brazil, India, Canada, ...
wind turbines) nearby. The coat of arms of Liepāja was adopted four days after the jurisdiction gained city rights on 18 March 1625. These are described as: "on a silver background, the lion of Courland with a divided tail, who leans upon a linden ( lv, Liepa) tree with its forelegs". The flag of Liepāja has the coat of arms in the center, with red in the top half and green in the bottom. One of the very few surviving films documenting the mass murder of Jews during the first stages of the Holocaust is a short film by a German soldier who witnessed the massacre of Liepāja Jews in July 1941 near the city's lighthouse. Liepāja is chosen as the European Capital of Culture in 2027.


Names and toponymy

The name was derived from the Livonian word ''Liiv'' meaning "sand". The oldest written text mentioning Līva village (''Villa Liva'') is the treaty of bishop of Courland and the Master of the Livonian Order dated 4 April 1253. In 1263, the
Teutonic Order The Order of Brothers of the German House of Saint Mary in Jerusalem, commonly known as the Teutonic Order, is a Catholic religious institution founded as a military society in Acre, Kingdom of Jerusalem. It was formed to aid Christians on ...
established a town which they called ''Libau'' in
German German(s) may refer to: * Germany (of or related to) ** Germania (historical use) * Germans, citizens of Germany, people of German ancestry, or native speakers of the German language ** For citizens of Germany, see also German nationality law **Ge ...
and this was used until 1920. The Lettish name ''Liepāja'' was mentioned for the first time in 1649 by Paul Einhorn in his work '' Historia Lettica''. A
Russian Russian(s) refers to anything related to Russia, including: *Russians (, ''russkiye''), an ethnic group of the East Slavic peoples, primarily living in Russia and neighboring countries *Rossiyane (), Russian language term for all citizens and peo ...
name in Cyrillic from the time of the
Russian Empire The Russian Empire was an empire and the final period of the Russian monarchy from 1721 to 1917, ruling across large parts of Eurasia. It succeeded the Tsardom of Russia following the Treaty of Nystad, which ended the Great Northern War. ...
was (''Libava'') or (''Libau''), although (''Liepaya''), a transliteration of Liepāja, has been used since World War II. Some other names for the city include ''Liepoja'' in Lithuanian, the nearest neighbour, and ''Libow'' in English.


History


Early history

It is said that the original settlement at the location of modern Liepāja was founded by Curonian fishermen from
Piemare Piemare ( lt, Piemarė; la, Bihavelanc) was one of the main Curonian kihelkonds with an administrative center in Esestua ( Seeburg) before the 13th century. It was located between Bandava, Duvzare and the Baltic Sea on the territory of presen ...
as ''Līva'', but Henry (Henricus Lettus) of
Livonia Livonia ( liv, Līvõmō, et, Liivimaa, fi, Liivinmaa, German and Scandinavian languages: ', archaic German: ''Liefland'', nl, Lijfland, Latvian and lt, Livonija, pl, Inflanty, archaic English: ''Livland'', ''Liwlandia''; russian: Ли ...
, in his famous ''Chronicle'', makes no mention of the settlement. The
Teutonic Order The Order of Brothers of the German House of Saint Mary in Jerusalem, commonly known as the Teutonic Order, is a Catholic religious institution founded as a military society in Acre, Kingdom of Jerusalem. It was formed to aid Christians on ...
established a village which they called ''Libau'' here in 1263, followed by
Mitau Jelgava (; german: Mitau, ; see also other names) is a state city in central Latvia about southwest of Riga with 55,972 inhabitants (2019). It is the largest town in the region of Zemgale (Semigalia). Jelgava was the capital of the united ...
two years later. In 1418 the village was sacked and burned by the Lithuanians.


Livonian confederation

During the 15th century, a part of the trade route from
Amsterdam Amsterdam ( , , , lit. ''The Dam on the River Amstel'') is the capital and most populous city of the Netherlands, with The Hague being the seat of government. It has a population of 907,976 within the city proper, 1,558,755 in the urban ar ...
to
Moscow Moscow ( , US chiefly ; rus, links=no, Москва, r=Moskva, p=mɐskˈva, a=Москва.ogg) is the capital and largest city of Russia. The city stands on the Moskva River in Central Russia, with a population estimated at 13.0 millio ...
passed through Līva, where it was known as the "white road to ''Lyva portus''". By 1520 the river Līva had become too shallow for easy navigation, and development of the city declined.


Duchy of Courland and Semigallia

In 1560,
Gotthard Kettler Gotthard Kettler, Duke of Courland (also ''Godert'', ''Ketteler'', german: Gotthard Kettler, Herzog von Kurland; 2 February 1517 – 17 May 1587) was the last Master of the Livonian Order and the first Duke of Courland and Semigallia. Biography ...
, first Duke of Courland and Semigallia, loaned all the Grobiņa district, including Libau, to
Albert, Duke of Prussia Albert of Prussia (german: Albrecht von Preussen; 17 May 149020 March 1568) was a German prince who was the 37th Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights, who after converting to Lutheranism, became the first ruler of the Duchy of Prussia, the s ...
for 50,000 guldens. Only in 1609 after the marriage of
Sofie Hohenzollern Duchess Sophie of Prussia (c. 31 March 1582 – c. 24 November 1610) was a German princess of the Duchy of Prussia, a fief of Kingdom of Poland and a member of the House of Hohenzollern. Sophie was the daughter of Albert Frederick, Duke of Pruss ...
, Princess of Prussia, to
Wilhelm Kettler Wilhelm Kettler (20 June 1574 – 7 April 1640) was the Duke of Courland, a Baltic German region in today's Latvia. Wilhelm ruled the western Courland portion of the Duchy of Courland and Semigallia, while his brother Friedrich ruled the ea ...
did the territory return to the Duchy. During the
Livonian War The Livonian War (1558–1583) was the Russian invasion of Old Livonia, and the prolonged series of military conflicts that followed, in which Tsar Ivan the Terrible of Russia (Muscovy) unsuccessfully fought for control of the region (pr ...
, Libau was attacked and burnt by the Swedes. In 1625, Duke
Friedrich Kettler Friedrich Kettler ( Latvian: Frīdrihs Ketlers, 25 November 1569 in Mitau (now Jelgava) – 17 August 1642) was Duke of Courland and Semigallia (Latvian: ''Kurzemes un Zemgales hercogiste'', now part of Latvia) from 1587 to 1642. He was the son ...
of Courland granted the town city rights, which were affirmed by King Sigismund III of
Poland Poland, officially the Republic of Poland, is a country in Central Europe. It is divided into 16 administrative provinces called voivodeships, covering an area of . Poland has a population of over 38 million and is the fifth-most populou ...
in 1626, although under what legal authority Sigismund had is debatable. Under Duke
Jacob Kettler Jacob Kettler (german: link=no, Jakob von Kettler) (Latvian: Hercogs Jēkabs Ketlers) (28 October 1610 – 1 January 1682) was one of the greatest Baltic German Dukes of the Duchy of Courland and Semigallia (1642–1682). He was intelligent, sp ...
(1642–1681), Libau became one of the main ports of Courland as it reached the height of its prosperity. In 1637
Couronian colonization Curonian colonisation refers to the colonisation efforts of the Duchy of Courland and Semigallia (today part of Latvia). Small, but wealthy, the Duchy took a modest part in the European colonization settlement attempts of West Africa and th ...
was started from the ports of Libau and
Ventspils Ventspils (; german: Windau, ; see other names) is a state city in northwestern Latvia in the historical Courland region of Latvia, and is the sixth largest city in the country. At the beginning of 2020, Ventspils had a population of 33,906. It ...
(Windau). Kettler was an eager proponent of mercantilist ideas. Metalworking and ship building became much more developed, and trading relations developed not only with nearby countries but also with Britain, France, the Netherlands and Portugal. In 1697–1703 a canal was cut to the sea and a more modern port was built. In 1701, during the
Great Northern War The Great Northern War (1700–1721) was a conflict in which a coalition led by the Tsardom of Russia successfully contested the supremacy of the Swedish Empire in Northern, Central and Eastern Europe. The initial leaders of the anti-Swed ...
, Libau was captured by Charles XII of Sweden, but by the end of the war, the city had returned to titular Polish possession. In 1710 an epidemic of
plague Plague or The Plague may refer to: Agriculture, fauna, and medicine *Plague (disease), a disease caused by ''Yersinia pestis'' * An epidemic of infectious disease (medical or agricultural) * A pandemic caused by such a disease * A swarm of pe ...
killed about a third of the population. In 1780 the first
Freemasonry Freemasonry or Masonry refers to fraternal organisations that trace their origins to the local guilds of stonemasons that, from the end of the 13th century, regulated the qualifications of stonemasons and their interaction with authorities ...
lodge, "Libanons," was established by Provincial Grand Master Ivan Yelagin on behalf of the Provincial Lodge of Russia; it was registered as number 524 in the
Grand Lodge of England The United Grand Lodge of England (UGLE) is the governing Masonic lodge for the majority of freemasons in England, Wales and the Commonwealth of Nations. Claiming descent from the Masonic grand lodge formed 24 June 1717 at the Goose & Gridiron ...
.


Russian Empire

Courland passed to the control of the
Russian Empire The Russian Empire was an empire and the final period of the Russian monarchy from 1721 to 1917, ruling across large parts of Eurasia. It succeeded the Tsardom of Russia following the Treaty of Nystad, which ended the Great Northern War. ...
in 1795 during the third
Partition of Poland The Partitions of Poland were three partitions of the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth that took place toward the end of the 18th century and ended the existence of the state, resulting in the elimination of sovereign Poland and Lithuania for 12 ...
and was organized as the Courland Governorate of Russia. Growth during the nineteenth century was rapid. During the
Crimean War The Crimean War, , was fought from October 1853 to February 1856 between Russia and an ultimately victorious alliance of the Ottoman Empire, France, the United Kingdom and Piedmont-Sardinia. Geopolitical causes of the war included the ...
, when the British
Royal Navy The Royal Navy (RN) is the United Kingdom's naval warfare force. Although warships were used by English and Scottish kings from the early medieval period, the first major maritime engagements were fought in the Hundred Years' War against ...
was blockading Russian Baltic ports, the busy yet still unfortified port of Libau was briefly captured on 17 May 1854 without a shot being fired, by a landing party of 110 men from HMS ''Conflict'' and HMS ''Amphion''. In 1857 an Imperial Decree provided for a new railway to Libau. That year the engineer Jan Heidatel developed a project to reconstruct the port. In 1861–1868 the project was realized – including the building of a lighthouse and breakwaters. Between 1877 and 1882 the political and literary weekly newspaper ''Liepājas Pastnieks'' was published – the first
Latvian language Latvian ( ), also known as Lettish, is an Eastern Baltic language belonging to the Baltic branch of the Indo-European language family, spoken in the Baltic region. It is the language of Latvians and the official language of Latvia as well ...
newspaper in Libau. In the 1870s the further rapid development of Russian
railways Rail transport (also known as train transport) is a means of transport that transfers passengers and goods on wheeled vehicles running on rails, which are incorporated in tracks. In contrast to road transport, where the vehicles run on a pre ...
, especially the 1871 opening of the Libava- Kaunas and the 1876 Liepāja–Romny Railways, ensured that a large proportion of central Russian trade passed through Libau. By 1900, 7% of Russian exports were passing through Libau. The city became a major port of the Russian Empire on the Baltic Sea, as well as a popular resort. During this time of economic expansion, the city architect Paul Max Bertschy provided the design for many of the city's both public and private buildings, making an imprint on the architecture which can still be seen today. On the orders of Alexander III, Libau was fortified against possible German attacks.
Fortifications A fortification is a military construction or building designed for the defense of territories in warfare, and is also used to establish rule in a region during peacetime. The term is derived from Latin ''fortis'' ("strong") and ''facere'' ...
were subsequently built around the city, and in the early 20th century, a major military base was established on the northern edge. It included formidable coastal fortifications and extensive quarters for military personnel. As part of the military development, a separate port was excavated exclusively for military use. This area became known as Kara Osta (War Port) and served military needs throughout the twentieth century. Early in the twentieth century, the port of Libau became a central point of embarkation for immigrants travelling to the United States and Canada. By 1906 the direct ship service to the United States was used by 40,000 migrants per year. Simultaneously, the first Russian training school of submarine navigation was founded. In 1912 one of the first water aerodromes in Russia was opened in Libau. In 1913, 1,738 ships entered Libau, with 1,548,119 tonnes of cargo passing through the port. The population had increased from 10,000 to over 100,000 within about 60 years.


World War I and War of Independence

Following the outbreak of
World War I World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, the United States, and the Ottoman Empire, with fightin ...
, the German cruiser SMS ''Magdeburg'' shelled Libau (then part of Russia), and other vessels laid mines off the approaches to the port. Libau was soon occupied by the German Army, on 7 May 1915, and in memory of this event, a monument was constructed on Kūrmājas Prospect in 1916 (removed in 1919 by the new Latvian State). Libau's local government issued its own money for a while in this period – ''Libaua rubles''. An advanced German
Zeppelin A Zeppelin is a type of rigid airship named after the German inventor Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin () who pioneered rigid airship development at the beginning of the 20th century. Zeppelin's notions were first formulated in 1874Eckener 1938, pp ...
base was constructed at Vaiņode, near Libau, with five hangars, in August 1915. On 23 October 1915, the German cruiser SMS Prinz Adalbert was sunk by the British submarine , west of Libau. With the collapse of Russia and the signing of the
Treaty of Brest-Litovsk The Treaty of Brest-Litovsk (also known as the Treaty of Brest in Russia) was a separate peace treaty signed on 3 March 1918 between Russia and the Central Powers (Germany, Austria-Hungary, Bulgaria, and the Ottoman Empire), that ended Russia's ...
, the occupying German forces had a quiet time, but the subsequent defeat in the West of the German Empire and the Allied denunciation of the Brest-Litovsk Treaty changed everything. Independence of the Republic of Latvia was proclaimed on 18 November 1918, and the
Latvian Provisional Government The Latvian Provisional Government ( lv, Latvijas Pagaidu valdība) was formed on November 18, 1918 by the People's Council of Latvia as the interim government of the newly-proclaimed Republic of Latvia during the Latvian War of Independence. Th ...
under Karlis Ulmanis was created. Bolshevik Russia now advanced into Latvian territory and met little resistance here. Soon the Provisional Government and remaining German units were forced to leave Riga and retreated all the way to Libau, but then the Red offensive stalled along the Venta river. The Bolsheviks announced a Latvian Soviet Republic. Latvia now became the main theatre of Baltic operations for the remaining German forces in 1919. In addition, a ''Landeswehr'' was formed to work in conjunction with the German forces. In Libau, a coup organized by Germans took place on 16 April 1919 and Ulmanis government was forced to flee and was replaced by Andrievs Niedra. The Ulmanis government found shelter on the steamship "Saratov" in Libau port. In May a British cruiser squadron arrived at Libau to support Latvian independence and requested the Germans to leave. During the war, the words of " The Jäger March" were written in Libau by
Heikki Nurmio Heikki Nurmio (1887-1947) was a Finnish jäger and writer. He is remembered for writing the lyrics for "Jääkärien marssi" (''Jäger March'') composed by Jean Sibelius in 1917. Heikki Nurmio joined the 27th Jäger Battalion in 1916 in German ...
. The German ''Freikorps'', having recaptured Riga from the Bolsheviks, departed in late 1919 and the Bolsheviks were driven out of the Latvian hinterlands in early 1920.


1920–1940

During the interwar period, Liepāja was the second major city in Latvia. In an attempt to put Libau 'on the map', on 31 January 1922, the Libau Bank was founded with significant new capital, transforming the old Libau Exchange Bank which had belonged to the Libau Exchange Association, and it eventually became the fourth-largest of Latvia's joint stock banks. However, when a Riga branch of the bank was opened, the business centre of gravity shifted from Liepāja so that by 1923 its Riga 'branch' was responsible for 90% of the turnover. The German consul in Liepāja reported at the time that "Riga, the economic heart of the country, draws all business to itself." The Latvian government ignored the pleas of the Libau Exchange Association to frustrate this. In 1935 KOD ( lv, Kara ostas darbnīcas) started to manufacture the light aircraft KOD-1 and KOD-2 at Liepāja. However it became evident in this year that trade with the new Soviet Union had virtually collapsed.


World War II

The ports and human capital of Liepāja and Ventspils were targets of
Joseph Stalin Joseph Vissarionovich Stalin (born Ioseb Besarionis dze Jughashvili; – 5 March 1953) was a Georgian revolutionary and Soviet political leader who led the Soviet Union from 1924 until his death in 1953. He held power as General Secretar ...
. He signed the
Molotov–Ribbentrop pact The Molotov–Ribbentrop Pact was a non-aggression pact between Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union that enabled those powers to partition Poland between them. The pact was signed in Moscow on 23 August 1939 by German Foreign Minister Joachim von Ri ...
in part to gain control of this territory. When the Soviet Union occupied and annexed Latvia in 1940, it nationalized private property. Many thousands of former owners were arrested and
deported Deportation is the expulsion of a person or group of people from a place or country. The term ''expulsion'' is often used as a synonym for deportation, though expulsion is more often used in the context of international law, while deportation ...
to the gulag camps in
Siberia Siberia ( ; rus, Сибирь, r=Sibir', p=sʲɪˈbʲirʲ, a=Ru-Сибирь.ogg) is an extensive region, geographical region, constituting all of North Asia, from the Ural Mountains in the west to the Pacific Ocean in the east. It has been a ...
. In 1941 Liepāja was among the first cities captured by the 291st Infantry Division of
Army Group North Army Group North (german: Heeresgruppe Nord) was a German strategic formation, commanding a grouping of field armies during World War II. The German Army Group was subordinated to the ''Oberkommando des Heeres'' (OKH), the German army high comman ...
after Nazi Germany began
Operation Barbarossa Operation Barbarossa (german: link=no, Unternehmen Barbarossa; ) was the invasion of the Soviet Union by Nazi Germany and many of its Axis allies, starting on Sunday, 22 June 1941, during the Second World War. The operation, code-named after ...
, its war against the Soviet Union. German Nazis and Latvian collaborators virtually exterminated the local Jewish population, which had numbered about 7,000 before the war. Film footage of an Einsatzgruppen execution of local Jews was taken in Liepāja. Most of these mass murders took place in the dunes of
Šķēde Šķēde is a suburban settlement near Liepāja, Latvia, in Medze Parish, South Kurzeme Municipality. It is located on the north border of the city. Šķēde was the biggest dacha cooperative in Latvia in the time of the Latvian SSR. One of ...
north of the city. Fewer than thirty Jews survived in Liepāja by the end of the war. During the war, the German navy's U-boat crews received their torpedo training at Liepāja. During the period 1944–1945, as the Soviet Union began its offensive to the Baltic Sea, Liepāja was within the "
Courland Pocket The Courland Pocket (Blockade of the Courland army group), (german: Kurland-Kessel)/german: Kurland-Brückenkopf (Courland Bridgehead), lv, Kurzemes katls (Courland Cauldron) or ''Kurzemes cietoksnis'' (Courland Fortress)., group=lower-alpha ...
". It was occupied by the
Red Army The Workers' and Peasants' Red Army ( Russian: Рабо́че-крестья́нская Кра́сная армия),) often shortened to the Red Army, was the army and air force of the Russian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic and, afte ...
on 9 May 1945. Thousands of Latvians fled as refugees to Germany. The city had been devastated during the war, and most of the buildings and industrial
plant Plants are predominantly photosynthetic eukaryotes of the kingdom Plantae. Historically, the plant kingdom encompassed all living things that were not animals, and included algae and fungi; however, all current definitions of Plantae exclu ...
were destroyed.


Latvian SSR

On 25–29 March 1949, the Soviet Union organized a second
mass deportation Deportation is the expulsion of a person or group of people from a place or country. The term ''expulsion'' is often used as a synonym for deportation, though expulsion is more often used in the context of international law, while deportation ...
to
Siberia Siberia ( ; rus, Сибирь, r=Sibir', p=sʲɪˈbʲirʲ, a=Ru-Сибирь.ogg) is an extensive region, geographical region, constituting all of North Asia, from the Ural Mountains in the west to the Pacific Ocean in the east. It has been a ...
from Liepāja. In 1950 a monument to Stalin was erected on Station square ( lv, Stacijas laukums). It was dismantled in 1958 after the Party Congress that discussed his abuses. During 1953–1957 the city center was reconstructed under the direction of architects A. Kruglov and M. Žagare. In 1952–1955 the Liepāja Academy of Pedagogy building was constructed under the direction of A. Aivars. In 1960 the ''Kurzeme'' shopping centre was opened. During the Soviet administration, Liepāja was a
closed city A closed city or closed town is a settlement where travel or residency restrictions are applied so that specific authorization is required to visit or remain overnight. Such places may be sensitive military establishments or secret research ins ...
; even local farmers and villagers needed a special permit to enter it. The Soviet military set up its Baltic naval base and
nuclear weapon A nuclear weapon is an explosive device that derives its destructive force from nuclear reactions, either fission (fission bomb) or a combination of fission and fusion reactions ( thermonuclear bomb), producing a nuclear explosion. Both bom ...
warehouses there; The Beberliņš
sandpit A sandpit (most Commonwealth countries) or sandbox (US and Canada) is a low, wide container or shallow depression filled with soft (beach) sand in which children can play. Sharp sand (as used in the building industry) is not suitable for su ...
was dug out to extract sand used for constructing underground warehouses. In 1967 the Soviets completely closed the port to commercial traffic. One-third of the city was taken up with a Soviet naval base; its military staff numbered 26,000. The 14th Submarine Squadron of the USSR's Baltic Fleet (''russian: link=no, 14 эскадрилья ЛиВМБ ДКБФ'', call sign "Комплекс") was stationed there with 16 submarines (Types:
613 __NOTOC__ Year 613 ( DCXIII) was a common year starting on Monday (link will display the full calendar) of the Julian calendar. The denomination 613 for this year has been used since the early medieval period, when the Anno Domini calendar era ...
, 629a,
651 Year 651 (DCLI) was a common year starting on Saturday (link will display the full calendar) of the Julian calendar. The denomination 651 for this year has been used since the early medieval period, when the Anno Domini calendar era became the ...
); as was the 6th group of Rear Supply of the Baltic Fleet, and the 81st Design Bureau and Reserve Command Center of the same force. In 1977 Liepāja was awarded the
Order of the October Revolution The Order of the October Revolution (russian: Орден Октябрьской Революции, ''Orden Oktyabr'skoy Revolyutsii'') was instituted on October 31, 1967, in time for the 50th anniversary of the October Revolution. It was conferr ...
for heroic defense against Nazi Germany in 1941. Five residents were awarded the honorary title
Hero of Socialist Labor The Hero of Socialist Labour (russian: links=no, Герой Социалистического Труда, Geroy Sotsialisticheskogo Truda) was an honorific title in the Soviet Union and other Warsaw Pact countries from 1938 to 1991. It repre ...
: Anatolijs Filatkins, Artūrs Fridrihsons, Voldemārs Lazdups, Valentins Šuvajevs and Otīlija Žagata. Because of the rapid growth of the city's population, a shortage of apartment houses resulted. To resolve this, the Soviet government organized development of most of the modern Liepāja districts: Dienvidrietumi,
Ezerkrasts Ezerkrasts is one of the largest and most modern neighbourhoods of Liepāja, Latvia. It is located near the southern border of the city, on the western coast of Liepāja lake. Ezerkrasts named so after the naming contest in 1975, in which this na ...
, Ziemeļu priekšpilsēta, Zaļā birze and Tosmare. The majority of these blocks were constructed of ferro-concrete panels in standard projects designed by the state
Latgyprogorstroy Institute "Latgyprogorstoy" (russian: Институт "Латгипрогорстрой") - was a main institute of designing apartment houses in Latvian SSR. Full name of the institute was ''Latvian state institute of designing state construction ...
Institute (''russian: link=no, Латгипрогорстрой''). In 1986 the new central city hospital in Zaļa birze was opened.


1990–present

After Latvia regained independence after the fall of the Soviet Union, Liepāja has worked hard to change from a military city into a modern port city (again appearing on European maps after the secrecy of the Soviet period). The commercial port was re-opened in 1991, and in 1994 the last
Russian Russian(s) refers to anything related to Russia, including: *Russians (, ''russkiye''), an ethnic group of the East Slavic peoples, primarily living in Russia and neighboring countries *Rossiyane (), Russian language term for all citizens and peo ...
troops left Liepāja. Since then, Liepāja has engaged in international co-operation, has been associated with 10 twin and partner cities, and is an active partner in several co-operation networks. Facilities are being improved. The city is the location of Latvia's largest naval flotilla, the largest warehouses of ammunition and weapons in the Baltic states, and the main supply centre of the Latvian army. The former closed military town has been transformed into the northern neighbourhood of
Karosta Karosta is a former Russian Imperial and Soviet naval base on the Baltic Sea, which today is a neighbourhood in Liepāja, Latvia. History The naval base was originally constructed in 1890-1906 for Tsar Alexander III of Russia, and named По ...
, occupying a third of the area of the city of Liepāja and attracting tourists to the remains of the military era. At the beginning of the 21st century, many ambitious construction projects were planned for the city, including a
NATO The North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO, ; french: Organisation du traité de l'Atlantique nord, ), also called the North Atlantic Alliance, is an intergovernmental military alliance between 30 member states – 28 European and two No ...
military base, and Baltic Sea Park, planned as the biggest amusement park in the Baltic states. Most of the projects have not yet been realised due to economic and political factors. Liepāja's heating network was renovated with the cooperation of French and Russian companies:
Dalkia Dalkia is an energy service company, subsidiary of the EDF Group. Its two main businesses consist in making the most of local renewables and unlocking energy savings. Dalkia develops alternative renewables, such as biomass, geothermal, biogas ...
and Gazprom, respectively. In 2006, Queen
Beatrix of the Netherlands Beatrix (Beatrix Wilhelmina Armgard, ; born 31 January 1938) is a member of the Dutch royal house who reigned as Queen of the Netherlands from 1980 until her abdication in 2013. Beatrix is the eldest daughter of Queen Juliana and her husban ...
, a direct descendant of
Jacob Kettler Jacob Kettler (german: link=no, Jakob von Kettler) (Latvian: Hercogs Jēkabs Ketlers) (28 October 1610 – 1 January 1682) was one of the greatest Baltic German Dukes of the Duchy of Courland and Semigallia (1642–1682). He was intelligent, sp ...
visited Liepāja. In 2010 the coal
cogeneration Cogeneration or combined heat and power (CHP) is the use of a heat engine or power station to generate electricity and useful heat at the same time. Cogeneration is a more efficient use of fuel or heat, because otherwise- wasted heat from elec ...
400 MW power plant was built in Liepāja with the support of the government.


Geography

Liepāja is situated on the coast of the
Baltic Sea The Baltic Sea is an arm of the Atlantic Ocean that is enclosed by Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Germany, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Russia, Sweden and the North and Central European Plain. The sea stretches from 53°N to 66°N latitude and ...
in the south-western part of Latvia. The westernmost geographical point of Latvia is located approximately to the south thus making Liepāja Latvia's furthest west city. The city occupies a 1.5-6.5 km wide coastal dune embankment and a foothill plain in the Bartau Plain of the Seaside Lowland. Liepaja is surrounded by the Dienvidkurzeme Region, and is bordered to the north by Medze Parish, to the east by
Grobiņa Parish Grobiņa Parish ( lv, Grobiņas pagasts) is an administrative unit of South Kurzeme Municipality in the Courland region of Latvia. The parish has a population of 2,836 (as of 1/07/2010) and covers an area of . Villages of Grobiņa parish * Āl ...
, and to the south by Nīca Parish, with its western border following the Baltic Sea coast. The Trade Channel () connects the lake to the sea dividing the city into southern and northern parts, which are often referred to as Vecliepāja (Old Town) and Jaunliepāja (New Town) respectively. Along the coast, the city extends northwards until it reaches the
Karosta Karosta is a former Russian Imperial and Soviet naval base on the Baltic Sea, which today is a neighbourhood in Liepāja, Latvia. History The naval base was originally constructed in 1890-1906 for Tsar Alexander III of Russia, and named По ...
Channel (). North of the Karosta Channel is an area called
Karosta Karosta is a former Russian Imperial and Soviet naval base on the Baltic Sea, which today is a neighbourhood in Liepāja, Latvia. History The naval base was originally constructed in 1890-1906 for Tsar Alexander III of Russia, and named По ...
which is now fully integrated into Liepāja and is the northernmost district of the city. Liepāja's coastline consists of an unbroken sandy beach and dunes. Natural areas cover about one third of the territory of the city. These areas are mostly located on the outskirts of the city and are not connected to the small green areas in the central part of the city.


Forests

Liepaja's urban forest covers 1368.9 ha, of which 83% are forest stands, the rest is covered by swamps (4.7%), meadows and sandhills (9.5%), flood plains and infrastructure sites (less than 3% in total). Private landowners own 109.6 ha, while 92% of the forest land area, or 1259.3 ha, belongs to the municipality. The urban forest consists of five separate forest massifs: the largest one is in the northern part of the city - the Karosta Forest. Other forests include Reiņu Forest, the forests near the regional hospital, the south-western forest and the Zaļā birze Forest. The city is characterised by a wide variety of forest growth types, determined and influenced by the geological and hydrological conditions of the area. Dry forests cover 39% of the forest area, forests on wet mineral soils 13%, swamp forests 22% and drained forests 26%.


Surface waters

The water areas cover 1009 ha (17% of the total area of the city). The hydrological system of the City of Liepāja consists of various elements, including the Liepāja and Tosmare Lakes, which border the city to the east and are Natura 2000 sites (¼ of the lake is located in the city, the rest is located in the Otanķi and
Nīca Nīca (german: Niederbartau) is a village A village is a clustered human settlement or community, larger than a hamlet but smaller than a town (although the word is often used to describe both hamlets and smaller towns), with a po ...
municipalities). There are also rivers - the Vērnieku River, Kalējupīte and Ālande, canals: Tirdzniecības, Karostas, Cietokšņa and Pērkones (former river), as well as the artificial reservoir Beberliņi. The city is located on the Baltic Sea coast. According to the Latvian classification of river basin districts, the territory of the city of Liepāja falls within the Venta river basin district.


Soils

The prevailing soil type and the prevailing geographical landscape of the area are determined by the low-fertility sandy loams and difficult natural drainage conditions characteristic of the Seaside Lowland. In terms of mechanical composition, sandy soils predominate, with typical
podzol In soil science, podzols are the typical soils of coniferous or boreal forests and also the typical soils of eucalypt forests and heathlands in southern Australia. In Western Europe, podzols develop on heathland, which is often a construct of ...
s in the uplands and peaty podzolic gley vegetation in the depressions, as well as turf gley vegetation and turf podzolic gley vegetation. Due to the high humidity, the area is characterised by waterlogging.


Climate

The climate in Liepaja is strongly influenced by the close proximity to the sea and is therefore located in the temperate semi-continental climate zone noted as "Dfb" in the
Köppen classification Köppen is a German surname. Notable people with the surname include: * Bernd Köppen (born 1951), German pianist and composer * Carl Köppen (1833-1907), German military advisor in Meiji era Japan * Edlef Köppen (1893–1939), German author an ...
. The outflow of sea air creates relatively low summer and high winter temperatures for these latitudes. Liepaja has the highest average air temperature in Latvia at +7.0 °C. In terms of hours of sunshine, Liepāja has one of the highest averages of 1940 hours of sunshine per year. Winter is characterised by frequent thaws, so snow cover in the Seaside Lowlands is usually very patchy, rarely exceeding 5–10 cm in depth. During the winter the sea around Liepāja is virtually ice-free. Although occasionally some land-fast ice may develop, it seldom reaches a hundred meters from the shore and does not last long before melting. The sea warms up fully only at the beginning of August. Summers are more affected by the maritime climate than east-facing cities on similar latitudes in opposite Sweden, but winters are milder than inland areas to the east. The number of windy days is high compared to inland areas of Latvia. The prevailing winds in the area tend to be all westerly and southerly. Their average speed is 6.1 m/s. Maximum wind speeds (greater than 20 m/s) are usually observed in autumn and winter, in most cases from the west. On 17–18 October 1967, the strongest storm in the history of the country occurred, and on 18 October the highest wind gust ever recorded in Latvia - 48 m/s - was recorded in Liepāja. The city has on average the most stormy days of the year - 7.9, when the average wind speed reaches 10.8 m/s. In 1971, this figure was as high as 36 days. The long-term trends indicate a very significant decrease in the number of stormy days.


Districts

# Vecliepāja #
Ezerkrasts Ezerkrasts is one of the largest and most modern neighbourhoods of Liepāja, Latvia. It is located near the southern border of the city, on the western coast of Liepāja lake. Ezerkrasts named so after the naming contest in 1975, in which this na ...
# Dienvidrietumu rajons # Ziemeļu priekšpilsēta # Jaunliepāja #
Velnciems Velnciems (''Devil's village'') is one of the oldest districts of Liepāja, Latvia. Located near Lauma's district, at the east side of the city. History According to a legend it was named by Peter The Great Peter I ( – ), most c ...
#
Karosta Karosta is a former Russian Imperial and Soviet naval base on the Baltic Sea, which today is a neighbourhood in Liepāja, Latvia. History The naval base was originally constructed in 1890-1906 for Tsar Alexander III of Russia, and named По ...
# Tosmare # Zaļā birze # Jaunā pasaule


Suburbs

#
Aucugals Aucugals is one of the suburbs of Liepāja, Latvia Latvia ( or ; lv, Latvija ; ltg, Latveja; liv, Leţmō), officially the Republic of Latvia ( lv, Latvijas Republika, links=no, ltg, Latvejas Republika, links=no, liv, Leţmō Vabā ...
# Grīnvalti # Pērkone #
Cimdenieki Cimdenieki is a small suburban settlement in Grobiņa Parish, South Kurzeme Municipality in the Courland region of Latvia Latvia ( or ; lv, Latvija ; ltg, Latveja; liv, Leţmō), officially the Republic of Latvia ( lv, Latvijas R ...
# Kapsēde #
Šķēde Šķēde is a suburban settlement near Liepāja, Latvia, in Medze Parish, South Kurzeme Municipality. It is located on the north border of the city. Šķēde was the biggest dacha cooperative in Latvia in the time of the Latvian SSR. One of ...


Closest cities

The closest city to Liepāja is
Grobiņa Grobiņa (; german: Grobin) is a town in South Kurzeme Municipality in the Courland region of Latvia, eleven kilometers east of Liepāja. It was founded by the Teutonic Knights in the 13th century. Some ruins of their Grobina castle are sti ...
, located about away towards Riga. Other main cities in the region are
Klaipėda Klaipėda (; ; german: Memel; pl, Kłajpeda; russian: Клайпеда; sgs, Klaipieda) is a city in Lithuania on the Baltic Sea coast. The capital of the eponymous county, it is the third largest city and the only major seaport in Lithuania ...
(approx. to the south),
Ventspils Ventspils (; german: Windau, ; see other names) is a state city in northwestern Latvia in the historical Courland region of Latvia, and is the sixth largest city in the country. At the beginning of 2020, Ventspils had a population of 33,906. It ...
(approx. to the north) and
Saldus Saldus (; german: Frauenburg) is a Latvian town located in Courland ( lv, Kurzeme) and is the main town, and the central location in Saldus Municipality. The name Saldus has been noted in historical sources as far back as the mid-13th century, but ...
(approx. to the east). The distance to Riga (the capital of Latvia) is about to the east. The nearest point to Liepāja across the Baltic sea is the
Swedish Swedish or ' may refer to: Anything from or related to Sweden, a country in Northern Europe. Or, specifically: * Swedish language, a North Germanic language spoken primarily in Sweden and Finland ** Swedish alphabet, the official alphabet used by ...
island of Gotland approximately to the north-west. The distance to Stockholm is 216 nautical miles. The closest major airports to Liepāja are
Palanga International Airport Palanga International Airport ( lt, Tarptautinis Palangos oro uostas) is a regional international airport located near the resort town Palanga at the Baltic Sea. It is the third largest airport in Lithuania and focuses on short and mid-range ...
- and
Riga International Airport Riga International Airport ( lv, Starptautiskā lidosta "Rīga"; ) is the international airport of Riga, the capital of Latvia, and the largest airport in the Baltic states with direct flights to 76 destinations as of November 2019. It serves ...
- .


Architecture

Liepāja's architecture features buildings from different centuries: classical wooden buildings from the 17th century, highly regarded brick architecture,
Eclecticism Eclecticism is a conceptual approach that does not hold rigidly to a single paradigm or set of assumptions, but instead draws upon multiple theories, styles, or ideas to gain complementary insights into a subject, or applies different theories i ...
and Art Nouveau buildings at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, as well as some buildings of the interwar period, Soviet-era functionalism and contemporary architecture. Many buildings were destroyed during
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposing ...
, which resulted in the destruction of almost the entire city built-up area between the Trade Canal and the Rose Square - more than 100 buildings. The development of Liepāja was entirely determined by economic conditions - initially the establishment of the port, and later, from the late 19th century, the expansion of industry.


Early architecture

Liepāja reached its first period of construction and architectural prosperity in the 17th and 18th centuries. The development of the architecture and artistic styles of the buildings was reflected in the houses of the wealthier inhabitants, where Mannerism, Baroque, Classicism and other styles can be found. The common people built their homes using traditional building methods typical of the countryside. The oldest type of building in Liepāja is a wooden log house on a low stone plinth with a steep tiled roof. This type of building can be found on Kungu Street, which was the main street of the town in the 17th century. The building on 24 Kungu Street is notable for the visit of Tsar Peter I of Russia in 1697, while the neighbouring building on 26 Kungu Street was visited by King Charles XII of Sweden in 1700. Other notable buildings are those at 6 Lielā Street, 3 Kungu Street, 13 Stendera Street, and the warehouses at 1 and 2 Jāņa Street and 4/6 and 10/12 Zivju Street. After several unsuccessful attempts to build a harbour during the previous century, the Trade Canal was dug in 1703, which contributed to the growth of the city. At this time, the port warehouses were built out of wood, characterised by a high plinth created as a semi-basement. Most of the older warehouses were concentrated in Jūras Street, one of which was moved to the Open-Air Museum in the 1930s, while the others have not survived. Residential buildings in the harbour area were very small and densely distributed. In 1848 there were 664 buildings in the town, of which only 46 were stone-built. Although wooden buildings were constructed, the most luxurious were built with roof extensions and ornate doors, panelling and beautifully painted pot stoves. The most ornate building in 18th century Liepāja was the Holy Trinity Cathedral


Bertchy

With the construction of the Grobiņa highway in 1841 and the Liepāja- Romny railway in the 1870s, the city took on a different character. This was further marked by the appointment of Paul Max Bertchy as the city's first architect in 1871. The houses built by Bertchy form the most notable part of Liepāja's historic buildings. The wide range of Bertchy's diverse works includes the oil extraction plant and linoleum factory, mansions at 14 and 16 Krišjāņa Valdemāra Street, 15 Peldu Street, tenement houses on 44 Peldu Street, the Peldu Institution (bath house) in Jūrmala Park, the hospital complex on Dārtas Street, the gymnasium building at 4 Krišjāņa Valdemāra Street, the café at 2 Krišjāņa Valdemāra Street, the St. Anne's Church, the Rome Hotel and others. His red brick buildings are also well known. The architecture of this period uses high-quality woodwork, such as doors. The painted staircases are remarkable, not only in the luxurious houses, but also in the workers' tenements on 6 Palmu Street, 9 Avotu Street, 28 Republikas Street and 21 Kuršu Street.


Art Nouveau

Liepaja is home to examples of the Art Nouveau style of architecture on a European scale. There are dozens of Art Nouveau buildings in the city, which in absolute numbers is more than in other European cities. Graudu Street is almost entirely defined by Art Nouveau along its entire length. Most of the buildings are built in the restrained and laconic style of Northern National Romanticism. Paul Max Bertchy designed several Art Nouveau buildings, but also significant are those by Theodor Max Bertchy (Bertchy junior), Ludwig Melville, Charles Carr, Lars Sonke, Pauls Kampe, Adolf Kucner, Gustav Janicek, William Losow, Max Kuhn, Alexander Zehrensen and Vasily Kosyakov. The Art Nouveau in Liepāja reflects mostly Latvian – German and partly also Russian as well as other interchanges. The most outstanding examples of Art Nouveau are the buildings on 2/6 Kūrmājas Prospect, 9 Ausekļa Street, 28, 34, 36/38, 44, 46, 27/29 and 45 Graudu Street, 3, 9, 16 and 23 Dzintaru Street, 8 Krišjāņa Barona Street, 23 Liepu Street, 33/35 Peldu Street, 1 and 11 Pasta Street, 4 and 5 Lielā Street, 2 Teātra Street, 18 Baznīcas Street, 21A Bāriņu Street, 22 Tirgoņu Street, 1, 5, 17 and 21 Kuršu Street, 8/10 and 16 Rožu Street , 6 Alejas Street (yard), 43 Toma Street, 11 Dīķa Street, 4 and 11 Avotu Street, 19 and 28 Republikas Street, 5, 13, 15/17, 19, 25 and 66 Uliha Street , 1 Raiņa Street, 10/12 Kroņu Street etc.


Karosta

In the northern part of the city, under the guidance of the best Russian military architects and engineers, the Karosta complex was built, which was and is completely different from the rest of the city, both in function and in the character and traditions of its buildings. The Karosta is still an outstanding example of a militarised complex in Latvian architectural history. The district was built for the Russian army and is dominated by the Orthodox cathedral in the centre. The most important objects of the Karosta are the officers' meeting house and the residential complex, as well as the unique fortification system that encircled the entire city and connected the different parts of the city with underground passages. During
World War I World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, the United States, and the Ottoman Empire, with fightin ...
, the fortifications were partially blown up.


Interwar period

During the interwar period, architect Jānis Blaus designed the project for the Latvian Society House in Liepāja. The building was erected in 1934 on the Rose Square. The Army Economic Store building was built in 1934-1935 according to the design of architect Aleksandrs Rācenis, but was destroyed during the
Second World War World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposi ...
. The pawnshop and savings bank building at 3 Teātra Street was built in 1936-1937. During this period, the Friendly Vocation Primary School (now the 5th Secondary School; K. Bikše) and the Jaunliepāja Lutheran Church (K. E. Strandmann) were also built.


Soviet era

Liepaja's city centre was devastated by the Second World War, and new development master plans were needed. The architecture and urban planning of Latvia, which was part of the
USSR The Soviet Union,. officially the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics. (USSR),. was a transcontinental country that spanned much of Eurasia from 1922 to 1991. A flagship communist state, it was nominally a federal union of fifteen nationa ...
, was regulated by the uniform urban planning and building regulations of the Soviet Union. New centres for cities destroyed during the war were planned according to standardised formal principles - International Modernism, where streets had to be wide and squares regular, symmetrical, with a
Lenin Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov. ( 1870 – 21 January 1924), better known as Vladimir Lenin,. was a Russian revolutionary, politician, and political theorist. He served as the first and founding head of government of Soviet Russia from 1917 to 1 ...
monument in the centre. Public buildings were designed to be representative - in line with Soviet architectural principles - large, spacious, imposing. In 1957, the building that now houses the University of Liepāja was built in a heavy eclectic style, designed by the architect Andrejs Aivars. An almost identical building is located in Daugavpils. The ''Kurzeme'' department store was built with large windows on the exterior walls and shop windows on the ground floor. During the Soviet period, the historical buildings of Liepāja's Old Town were eliminated over a wide area by the construction of a tram line from ''Kurzeme'' to Peldu Street. Changes also affected Lielā Street. Due to the military port, Liepaja was a closed city, and thus construction in the city was rather slow until the 1970s, when the construction of new factories (''Lauma'', agricultural machinery factory, ''Hidrolats'') and residential areas were built, the most important of which is the
Ezerkrasts Ezerkrasts is one of the largest and most modern neighbourhoods of Liepāja, Latvia. It is located near the southern border of the city, on the western coast of Liepāja lake. Ezerkrasts named so after the naming contest in 1975, in which this na ...
district.


Contemporary architecture

After the restoration of independence, an artificial ice rink (architect U. Pīlēns), a Catholic monastery (A. Kokins) in Jaunliepāja, the "Māja" shop (reconstruction; A. Padēlis-Līns), new market pavilions in the city centre (U. Pīlēns) were built. The most remarkable building of the 21st century is the Great Amber Concert Hall. New-age construction is characterised by the use of new materials and technologies, as well as Rationalism (architecture), rationalism and Functionalism (architecture), functionalism.


Monuments and memorials

* Monument to the sailors and fishermen perished in the sea (Liepāja), Monument to the sailors and fishermen lost at sea – 1977 * Monument to the Defenders of Liepāja in 1941–1960 * Monument to 1919 Freedom Fighters * Monument to Mirdza Ķempe – 1989 * Monument to – 2008 * Memorial wall in Zaļā birze * Nikolay Dedaev Monument * Statue of Hermes (Lielā iela 10) * 1 Rock Café Guitar * The Amber clock


Former monuments

* Monument to Imants Sudmalis – 1978 (partially dismantled and relocated) * Monument to
Lenin Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov. ( 1870 – 21 January 1924), better known as Vladimir Lenin,. was a Russian revolutionary, politician, and political theorist. He served as the first and founding head of government of Soviet Russia from 1917 to 1 ...
– 1970 (dismantled) * Monument to Nelson Stepanyan (relocated to Kaliningrad) * Monument to the 11 sailors of Soviet submarine L-3 (relocated to Moscow) * Monument to the submariners of the Baltic Sea (partially dismantled)


Museums

* The Liepāja Museum * Department of Liepaja Museum "Liepaja during the occupational regimes" * Museum "History of Liepāja Community of Jews" * Museum "Liepājas Metalurgs" (founded in 2007) * Museum "Karosta Prison"


Churches

* St. Paul's Baptist Church (1895) * St. Anna's Lutheran Church (1587) * Liepāja Holy Trinity Lutheran Cathedral (1758) * St. Joseph's Catholic Cathedral (1762) * Holy Trinity Orthodox Church (1867) * St Nicholas Naval Cathedral, Karosta (1901–1903)


Notable buildings

* Rose square ( lv, Rožu laukums) * Swan Pond (remnant of river Līva) * Hotel "Libava" * Peter The Great house – the oldest house in Liepāja * Graudu 45 – Graudu nams (Art Nouveau, Jugendstil) * Graudu 42 – former "Bonic Café" * Great Amber Concert Hall ( lv, Koncertzāle "Lielais dzintars") * Pētertirgus – Central market * Liepājas teatris * City council building – former District court * Restaurant "Vecais Kapteins" * University of Liepāja building * 1st Latvian Rock Café


Administration

Fourteen deputies and a mayor make up the Liepāja City Council. City's voters select a new government every four years, in June. The Council selects from its members the Chairman of City Council (also called City Mayor), the two Vice chairmen (Deputy Mayors) which are full-time positions. City Council also appoints the members of four standing committees, which prepare issues to be discussed in the Council meetings: Finance Committee; City Economy and Development Committee; Social Affairs, Health Care, Education and Public Order Committee; Culture and Sports Committee. The City of Liepāja had an operating budget of 104 million euros in 2022. Traditionally, political leanings in Liepāja have been Right-wing politics, right-wing. In recent years the Liepāja Party has dominated the polls.


Demographics

Liepaja’s population structure has been multicultural and this impacted city’s social life, economy and administration. Liepaja’s population structure started to change after the abolition of serfdom in 1817. The number of inhabitants in 1800 is 4500, but in 1840 there already were 11 000 citizens. The number of city inhabitants has doubled in 40 years. It continued to grow and in 1881 Liepāja already had 29 600 inhabitants. Liepāja's population grew fastest before World War I, almost tenfold in 50 years. It doubled during the 50 years of Soviet occupation, when population growth was hampered by the existence of the closed military port. Until World War I there was a high proportion of Baltic Germans, until World War II there was a high proportion of Jews, and during the Soviet occupation the number of Russians increased. The proportion of Latvians increased from 16% in 1863 to 85% in 1943 until World War II, but decreased again after the war. With 68,945 inhabitants in 2019, Liepāja is the third-largest city in Latvia. Its population has declined since the withdrawal of Soviet military forces; the last of which left in 1994. In addition, many ethnic Russians emigrated to Russia in 1991–2000. More recent causes include economic migration to Western European countries after Latvia joined the European Union, EU in 2004, and lower birth rates. The demographic situation in Liepāja is unfavourable, as the natural population growth is negative. However, the trend of people leaving Liepāja is gradually decreasing, and in 2018 a positive migration balance was achieved for the first time in many years. Favourable migration trends are more and more significantly compensating for the negative natural increase, so the overall population decline trend has been significantly reversed in 2017 and 2018. The Dependency ratio, dependency load is 690 children, adolescents and pensioners per 1000 inhabitants, which is the highest value among the major cities. The population decreased by an average of 750 inhabitants per year between 2012 and 2018.


Religion

Liepāja has a number of churches. As elsewhere in central and western Latvia, Protestantism, Protestant churches, mostly Lutheran, are predominant. Holy Trinity Cathedral houses the seat of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Latvia, Lutheran Bishop of Liepāja. Other Lutheran congregations are St. Anne, Church of the Cross and Church of Luther. There are four Baptist congregations in the city, among them are St. Paul church and Church of Zion. Owing to the regional importance of Liepāja during the last decades of the Russian Empire, a number of Russian Orthodox Church, Russian Orthodox churches were established in the city early in the twentieth century. Their congregations are chiefly drawn from the Russian-speaking population. The Catholic faith is represented in Liepāja by a St. Joseph Cathedral, Liepāja, St. Joseph Cathedral – the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Liepāja, Catholic primary school and the Catholic centre. The structure of the Catholic centre was used to represent the Holy See, Vatican in Expo 2000 in Hanover and was transferred to Liepāja after the event. Other Christian sects include Old Ritualists, Adventism, Adventist, Pentecostal, The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, Latter-day Saints and Jehovah's Witnesses, who have single congregations and churches.


Economy

After the collapse of Economy of the Soviet Union, USSR's centrally planned economy, Liepāja had to deal with issues of rundown infrastructure. To provide business incubation and development for the city, Liepaja Special Economic Zone (Liepaja SEZ) was established. According to the law, Liepāja SEZ was established on March 1, 1997 and it will exist until December 31, 2035. The purpose of the Liepāja SEZ is to develop a business environment, manufacturing, shipping and air traffic, as well as international trade through Latvia. The aim of the Liepāja SEZ is to attract investment for expanding of manufacturing and infrastructure, and to create new work places and to ensure the development of the region. In the beginning, investment growth remained slow due to a shortage of a skilled labour force, but the scheme proved to be successful as positive tendencies can be seen with formation of new businesses. After joining the European Union in 2004, many companies were faced with strict European rules and tense competition. In 2007 ''Liepājas cukurfabrika'' and ''Liepājas sērkociņi'' closed down; ''Līvu alus'', ''Liepājas maiznieks'' and ''Lauma'' have been sold to European investors. in 2013, the steel production company Liepājas Metalurgs went bankrupt, which was one of the largest economic disasters in modern Latvian history, costing the state around 230 million LVL (327 million EUR). Today, the City’s economic development is mainly driven by Liepāja Special Economic Zone, Trade Port and the companies placed there. In 2021, the companies in Liepāja with the largest turnover are TOLMETS, AE Partner, and Jensen Metal


Transport

Liepaja's transport system consists of 31 bus lines (5 of which are connected to Grobiņa), as well as one Liepaja tram line, which is 7 kilometres long. The tram line was founded after the opening of the first Liepāja power plant in 1899, which makes it the oldest electric tram line in the Baltic states; it is now operated by the municipal company Liepājas tramvajs. In 2013, the tram line was extended by 1.7 km from the Dienvidrietumu rajons (Liepāja), Dienvidrietumu residential area (Klaipėda Street) to the
Ezerkrasts Ezerkrasts is one of the largest and most modern neighbourhoods of Liepāja, Latvia. It is located near the southern border of the city, on the western coast of Liepāja lake. Ezerkrasts named so after the naming contest in 1975, in which this na ...
residential area with a turnaround at the end of Mirdzas Ķempes Street. Liepāja has direct bus connections to Riga,
Riga International Airport Riga International Airport ( lv, Starptautiskā lidosta "Rīga"; ) is the international airport of Riga, the capital of Latvia, and the largest airport in the Baltic states with direct flights to 76 destinations as of November 2019. It serves ...
,
Ventspils Ventspils (; german: Windau, ; see other names) is a state city in northwestern Latvia in the historical Courland region of Latvia, and is the sixth largest city in the country. At the beginning of 2020, Ventspils had a population of 33,906. It ...
, Jelgava,
Klaipėda Klaipėda (; ; german: Memel; pl, Kłajpeda; russian: Клайпеда; sgs, Klaipieda) is a city in Lithuania on the Baltic Sea coast. The capital of the eponymous county, it is the third largest city and the only major seaport in Lithuania ...
and other destinations. Liepāja has a railway connection to Jelgava and Riga and through them to the rest of Latvia's railway network. There is just one passenger station in the Jaunliepāja, New Town, but the railway extends further and links to the port. There is also a northward railway track leading to
Ventspils Ventspils (; german: Windau, ; see other names) is a state city in northwestern Latvia in the historical Courland region of Latvia, and is the sixth largest city in the country. At the beginning of 2020, Ventspils had a population of 33,906. It ...
, but in recent decades it has fallen into disuse for economic reasons. The railway provides the main means of delivering cargo to the port. Two main highways, the List of National Roads in Latvia, A9 and A11, connect the city and its port to the rest of the country. The A9 leads north-west towards Riga and central Latvia and the A11 leads south to the border with Lithuania and its only port
Klaipėda Klaipėda (; ; german: Memel; pl, Kłajpeda; russian: Клайпеда; sgs, Klaipieda) is a city in Lithuania on the Baltic Sea coast. The capital of the eponymous county, it is the third largest city and the only major seaport in Lithuania ...
and to
Palanga International Airport Palanga International Airport ( lt, Tarptautinis Palangos oro uostas) is a regional international airport located near the resort town Palanga at the Baltic Sea. It is the third largest airport in Lithuania and focuses on short and mid-range ...
. The city also hosts Liepāja International Airport, one of three international airports in Latvia; it is located outside the city limits, north of the Lake of Liepāja near
Cimdenieki Cimdenieki is a small suburban settlement in Grobiņa Parish, South Kurzeme Municipality in the Courland region of Latvia Latvia ( or ; lv, Latvija ; ltg, Latveja; liv, Leţmō), officially the Republic of Latvia ( lv, Latvijas R ...
. The airport is serviced by charter flights and an Air Baltic connection to
Riga International Airport Riga International Airport ( lv, Starptautiskā lidosta "Rīga"; ) is the international airport of Riga, the capital of Latvia, and the largest airport in the Baltic states with direct flights to 76 destinations as of November 2019. It serves ...
. Liepaja airport serviced 6,043 commercial (scheduled and non-scheduled) passengers in 2017 The Port of Liepāja has a wide water area and consists of three main parts. The Winter harbour is located in the Trade channel and serves small local fishing vessels as well as medium cargo ships. Immediately north of the Trade channel is the main area of the port, separated from the open sea by a line of Breakwater (structure), breakwaters. This part of the port can accommodate large ships and ferries. Further north is Karosta harbour, also called Karosta channel, which was formerly a military harbour but is now used for ship repairs and other commercial purposes. Liepāja also welcomes yachts and other leisure vessels which can enter the Trade channel and moor almost in the center of the city.


Education


History

The idea to open a school was born in 1560 during a church survey, and schools existed in Liepāja before 1625. However, it was the granting of city rights that encouraged the further development of schools, as the maintenance of schools was considered one of the city's responsibilities. Both German and Curonian children were encouraged to attend the newly founded school. It was announced to the "non-Germans" that those children who were sent to the school would be freed from all servitude and even freed from serfdom; they would also be given help for further education. At the beginning the school was a one-class school; the second class was opened in 1638; from 1650 the school had 3 classes, and in 1750 the 4th class was opened. In 1788 a new school building was built, and in 1806 the town school was transformed into the county's highest school after 250 years of existence. This county school was attended by Krišjānis Valdemārs and Atis Kronvalds, Kronvaldu Atis. In 1866, the county school was converted into the Nikolai Gymnasium. In 1861, a maritime class was opened at the county school, which was added to the Liepāja Maritime School in 1876. The first girls' high school was opened in 1871, and by 1874 there were already 2 girls' high schools, one of which was turned into a gymnasium in 1886. In the following years, the Russification of schools, which started with the law of 1889, turned all schools into Russian schools, however, there were schools attended by Latvian children in their majority, where Latvian was taught as a subject and religious studies were taught in Latvian. Schools with Latvian as the only language only appeared after Latvia gained independence. During the First Free State there were three secondary schools, 25 primary schools, two technical schools, a trade school, a secondary school of applied arts, a trade institute, a technical evening craft school, a Jewish craft school, a fishing and fish farming school. There was also a folk conservatory and various evening courses. In December 1919, a separate children's section was opened in the library - the first in Latvia. After
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposing ...
, Liepāja was home to the Liepaja Pedagogical Institute (founded in 1954; in 1945 as the Pedagogical School, in 1950 as the Liepaja Teachers' Institute), the General Technical Faculty of the Riga Polytechnic Institute, a maritime school, a medical school, a polytechnic, the Liepaja Applied Arts High School (founded in 1926), a music school, ten comprehensive schools, two vocational-technical high schools and two technical schools.


Today

Liepāja has wide educational resources. In March 2019, the Liepaja City Council decided to merge Secondary School No. 2 with Secondary School No. 12 to form a new secondary school, taking full advantage of the modernised learning environment of Secondary School No. 2, In 2022, the city has 21 kindergartens, twelve general education institutions and two private schools, 2 music schools and two boarding schools providing education in the city's largest residential districts. Interest education for children and youth is available in 8 municipal institutions: Children and Youth Centre, Youth Centre, Centre for Young Technicians, Art and Creation Centre "Vaduguns", Complex Sport School, Gymnastics School, Tennis Sports School, Sports School "Daugava" (football, track-and-field athletics) and Basketball Sports School. Liepāja Central Library has six branches and audio record library. Literature fund consists of about 460,000 copies and online catalogue. Average annual number of visitors – 25000. Liepāja also has several higher education institutions represented by:. * University of Liepāja * Riga Technical University Liepāja branch * Riga Stradiņš University, Rīga Stradiņš University Liepāja branch * Baltic International Academy Liepāja branch * Turība University Liepāja branch * Riga Technical College Liepāja branch * College of Law Liepāja branch * Liepāja Maritime College * Liepāja Medical College * Liepāja Applied Art School * Liepāja Carpentry School * Liepāja Tourism and Textile Design School


Culture

Liepāja is known as a city rich in deep cultural and historical traditions, and has a very important place in the cultural landscape of Latvia and the region. Liepāja is home to both state and municipal institutions, as well as the University of Liepāja and privately funded artistic groups and departments. The city has a remarkable legacy in terms of its historical cultural environment, buildings, monuments, visual art collections, museums and libraries. Liepāja has a strong tradition of performing arts and intangible cultural heritage - crafts, folk art, traditional culture - in both Latvian and minority groups. Cultural tourism and creative industries are developing. There is a strong cultural education base (in its professional forms). Certain sectors are relatively underdeveloped in Liepāja (fine arts, literature, declining cinema, etc.). Liepāja took part in the competition for the European Capital of Culture, European Capital of Culture (ECOC) status in 2014, but on 15 September 2009 the European Commission jury recommended that Riga be awarded the status. Having taken part in the competition for the European Capital of Culture status in 2027, on 10 May 2022 the jury awarded the status to Liepāja.


Symbols

Liepāja has three officially approved symbols: a coat of arms, a flag and an anthem. The coat of arms was adopted in 1625, while the flag was first officially proclaimed in 1938 with the "Law on the Flag of the City of Liepaja". The anthem "The City where the Wind is Born" (''Pilsētā, kurā piedzimst vējš'') was approved in 1999 and premiered in the first hour of 2000.
Imants Kalniņš Imants Kalniņš (born 26 May 1941 in Riga, Latvian SSR) is a Latvian composer, musician and politician. Having studied classical and choral music, he has written seven symphonies, several operas (including the first rock opera in the USSR, ...
wrote the song "In the City where the Wind is Born" in 1973, dedicating it to Liepāja and the people of Liepāja, with lyrics by Māris Čaklais. It was first performed by Austra Pumpure, and even then the song gained the status of an unofficial anthem of Liepāja residents. Liepāja also has its own special dish - 'Liepājas menciņi' (smoked, dried cod with potatoes, onions and dill in Cream, heavy cream, fried in a ceramic pot), which is based on an ancient recipe from South Courland Dried, smoked or lightly dried codfish was used in the diet of the coastal inhabitants of Courland - Livonians and Curonians - even before the arrival of German settlers in the 13th century. The use of Liepāja's symbols is regulated by the Binding Regulations adopted by the City Council on 25 February 1999.


Music

Liepāja is known as the music capital of Latvia[15]. The Liepāja Symphony Orchestra, the oldest orchestra in the Baltic States, performs in Liepāja. It remains the only professional orchestra in Latvia outside Riga. Liepāja is home to bands such as Līvi (band), Līvi, Credo (band), Credo, 2xBBM and Tumsa, as well as composers such as Zigmars Liepiņš, Jānis Lūsēns and Uldis Marhilēvičs. Music festivals such as Summer Sound, International Star Festival, VIA Baltica Festival, International Organ Music Festival and others are organised. From 1964 to 2006, Liepājas Dzintars, the longest-running and most tradition-rich popular music festival in Latvia, was held in the ''Pūt, vējiņi'' concert garden.


Visual arts

Liepāja's art scene has a long and rich tradition. The oldest and most outstanding work of art in Liepāja is the altar of St Anne's Church, built in 1697. The most significant work of art of the 18th century is the organ of the Holy Trinity Cathedral The interior decoration of the Old Catholic Church is also noteworthy - ornamental formations in plaster (1762) and the altar retable - a typical late Baroque work, paintings of columns, walls and ceilings, stained glass windows. Works of applied art masters are in the Liepāja Museum. There are 18th-century door sashes from the house at 13 Stendera Street and works by tin foundrymen. The most outstanding sculpture of the 19th century is the sculpture by Fabiani for the chapel in the Old Cemetery, but the sculpture in the city is mainly memorial works. In the Northern Cemetery there is a monument to the memory of the soldiers who died in the Latvian War of Independence, there is also a memorial marker to Colonel Oskars Kalpaks at his first burial site, and in the Jewish burial section of the Līva Cemetery there is a monument to the memory of the Jewish soldiers who died in the Latvian War of Independence near Liepāja. In Jūrmala Park, there is a monument to the sailors and fishermen perished in the sea and to the 16 January 1905 rally. Nearby is a monument to the poet Mirdza Ķempe. Until the restoration of independence, the city had several monuments created during the Soviet occupation, of which the monument to the 1941 defenders of Liepāja remains in place, but it is being dismantled in 2022. Since 1996, the town has been decorated with memorial sculptures to the bed of the River Līva, created in a plenary workshop led by Ģirts Burvis. The Liepāja anthem "In the City where the Wind is Born" is reproduced in bronze sculptures along the entire length of Kūrmāja Prospect. There is a rich tradition of painting.


Theatre

In 1907 the Liepāja Latvian Dramatic Society was founded. Together with other societies, in March 1907 it established and maintained the Liepāja Latvian Theatre (now Liepāja Theatre), which is the oldest Latvian professional theatre still in existence. In 1918 the theatre moved to its present premises - the City Theatre on the then Hagedorna (now Teātra) Street.


Sports

In 1998, the first ice hockey rink built in Latvia during the years of independence was opened in Liepāja which has since hosted regular ice hockey games including two youth Ice Hockey World Championships, World championship games. HK Liepājas Metalurgs became the home team of the Olympic Ice Arena. The team won eight Latvian Hockey Higher League, Latvian championship gold medals, and also won the 2002 Eastern European Hockey League tournament. Due to problems at the metallurgical company, the hockey team ceased operations in the summer of 2013. In 2014, the HK Liepāja was founded and they became champions of the Latvian Hockey Higher League in 2015–16 season. In January 2014, the FK Liepājas Metalurgs ceased operations and was replaced by the FK Liepāja, who became Latvian champions in 2015. Their home stadium is the Daugava Stadium (Liepāja), Daugava Stadium. Liepāja is home to Latvijas Basketbola līga, Latvian Basketball League club Betsafe/Liepāja. On 2 August 2008, a new multipurpose sports arena – Liepāja Olympic Centre was officially opened. It has been established as one of the most modern multipurpose sports and cultural complexes in Latvia. Liepāja regularly hosts various sporting events, such as the FIBA Basketball World Cup, World and EuroBasket, European Basketball Championships, and the 2009 Women's European Basketball Championship Subgroup A and B matches were played at the Liepāja Olympic Centre. The European Rally Championship stage "Rally Liepāja", the International Windsurfing Competition and others are also held.


Media

Liepāja has a regional newspaper ''Kurzemes vārds'' and a regional TV channel ''TV Kurzeme.'' The city also has several regional Internet Web portal, portals; there is an amateur radio community and a citywide wireless video monitoring system. , digital terrestrial television is fully operational; mobile television and broadband wireless networks are implemented. All four Latvian mobile operators have stable zones of coverage (GSM 900/1800, UMTS, 2100 Code division multiple access, CDMA450) and client service centers in Liepāja.


Representation in other media

*In 1979 a part of the film ''Moonzund (film), Moonzund'' was filmed in the town.


Notable people

* Woldemar Kernig (1840—1917) — Russian and German neurologist; * Reuven Dov Dessler (1863–1935) – rabbi; * Miķelis Valters (1874—1968) — politician, first Latvian Minister of Interior; * Lina Stern (1878—1968) — biochemist; * Yanka Maur (1883—1971) — Belarusians, Belarusian writer; * Eliyahu Eliezer Dessler (1892–1953) – rabbi; * Augusts Annuss (1893—1984) — painter; * Eduard Tisse (1897—1961) — cameraman; * Leon Josephson (1898–1966) – American lawyer and Soviet spy; * Jacob Klein (philosopher), Jacob Klein (1899–1978) – Russian-American Jewish philosopher; * Herberts Cukurs (1900—1965) — aviator and Nazi collaborator; * Valdemārs Baumanis (1905—1992) — basketball coach; * Balys Dvarionas (1905—1972) — Lithuanians, Lithuanian composer; * Stanisław Jaśkiewicz (1907—1980) — Poles, Polish actor; * Mirdza Ķempe (1907—1974) — poet; * Arvīds Jansons (1914—1984) — conductor, father of Mariss Jansons; * Tālivaldis Ķeniņš (1919—2008) — composer; * Morris Halle (1923—2018) — Latvian-American Jewish linguist; * Zvi Harry Hurwitz (1924—2008) — South African journalist, Israelis, Israeli diplomat and adviser to two prime ministers * Ernesto Foldats (1925—2003) — biologist; * George D. Schwab (1931) — American political scientist, editor, Holocaust survivor, and academic; * Kirovs Lipmans (1940) — businessman; * Teofils Biķis (1950—2000) — pianist; * Zigmars Liepiņš (1952) — composer: * Jānis Vanags (1958) — Archbishop of Riga in the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Latvia; * Laila Pakalniņa (1962) — film director; * Igo (singer), Igo (1962) — singer and composer; * Mārtiņš Freimanis (1977—2011) — musician and actor; * Konstantin Konstantinovs (1978—2018) — Latvian-Russian powerlifter; * Māris Verpakovskis (1979) — football player; * Romans Miloslavskis (1983) — swimmer and politician; *Mareks Mejeris (born 1991) - basketball player for Hapoel Jerusalem B.C., Hapoel Jerusalem of the Israeli Basketball Premier League; * Anastasija Sevastova (1990) — tennis player; * Kristaps Porziņģis (1995) — basketball player; * Rūdolfs Balcers (1997) — ice hockey player


Twin towns – sister cities

Liepāja is Sister city, twinned with: * Nynäshamn Municipality, Nynäshamn, Sweden (1990) * Elbląg, Poland (1991) * Bellevue, Washington, Bellevue, United States (1992) * Darmstadt, Germany (1993) *
Klaipėda Klaipėda (; ; german: Memel; pl, Kłajpeda; russian: Клайпеда; sgs, Klaipieda) is a city in Lithuania on the Baltic Sea coast. The capital of the eponymous county, it is the third largest city and the only major seaport in Lithuania ...
, Lithuania (1997) * Gdynia, Poland (1999) * Årstad, Bergen, Årstad (Bergen), Norway (2001) * Palanga, Lithuania (2001) * Helsingborg Municipality, Helsingborg, Sweden (2005) * Guldborgsund Municipality, Guldborgsund, Denmark


Gallery

File:Liepaja market.JPG, Pētertirgus File:Liepaja Orthodoxe Kathedrale St. Nikolaus Fassade 2.JPG, St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Naval Cathedral (1901–1903), architect Vasily Kosyakov File:Church of St. Ana in Liepaja.jpg, Church of St. Anna File:Station Liepaja 2010.JPG, Liepāja railway station File:Remains of old fortifications in Liepaya.jpg, The ruins of the northern forts File:Собор св. Иосифа в Лиепае.jpg, St. Joseph church File:Liepājas robežzīme.jpg, Liepāja border marker.


See also

*Ports of the Baltic Sea


References

Mass murder of Jews in Liepaja
(Yad Vashem channel, YouTube)


Bibliography

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *


External links


www.liepaja.lv
– Liepāja City Council official website
History of Liepāja

www.liepajniekiem.lv
– Liepāja news in Latvian and Russian
www.portofliepaja.lv
– Port of Liepaja
www.orkestris-liepaja.lv
– Liepaja Symphony orchestra
Kurzemes Vārds
– Liepāja regional newspaper
Kursas Laiks
– Liepāja district newspaper

– Webcam showing "Rose square" in Liepaja
The murder of the Jews of Liepāja
during
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposing ...
, at Yad Vashem website
Liepaja Info – Mobile Application
{{DEFAULTSORT:Liepaja Liepāja, Cities in Latvia Republican cities of Latvia Port cities and towns of the Baltic Sea Former national capitals Installations of the Soviet Navy Populated coastal places in Latvia Port cities in Latvia Holocaust locations in Latvia