Eberbach Abbey (German: Kloster Eberbach) is a former
Cistercian monastery in
Eltville
Eltville am Rhein (from ''Alta Villa'', Latin for "high estate, high town", corrupted to ''Eldeville'', ''Elfeld'' and later Eltville, ) is a town in the Rheingau-Taunus-Kreis in the ''Regierungsbezirk'' of Darmstadt in Hesse, Germany. It lies on ...
in the
Rheingau, Germany. On account of its
Romanesque and
early Gothic
Early Gothic is the style of architecture that appeared in northern France, Normandy and then England between about 1130 and the mid-13th century. It combined and developed several key elements from earlier styles, particularly from Romanesque ar ...
buildings it is considered one of the most significant architectural heritage sites in
Hesse
Hesse (, , ) or Hessia (, ; german: Hessen ), officially the State of Hessen (german: links=no, Land Hessen), is a state in Germany. Its capital city is Wiesbaden, and the largest urban area is Frankfurt. Two other major historic cities are Dar ...
.
In the winter of 1985/86 some of the interior scenes of ''
The Name of the Rose
''The Name of the Rose'' ( it, Il nome della rosa ) is the 1980 debut novel by Italian author Umberto Eco. It is a historical murder mystery set in an Italian monastery in the year 1327, and an intellectual mystery combining semiotics in ficti ...
'' were filmed here. The abbey is a main venue of the annual
Rheingau Musik Festival
The (RMF) is an international summer music festival in Germany, founded in 1987. It is mostly for classical music, but includes other genres. Concerts take place at culturally important locations, such as Eberbach Abbey and Schloss Johannisberg, ...
.
History
Abbey
The first
monastic
Monasticism (from Ancient Greek , , from , , 'alone'), also referred to as monachism, or monkhood, is a religion, religious way of life in which one renounces world (theology), worldly pursuits to devote oneself fully to spiritual work. Monastic ...
house at the site was founded in 1116 by Archbishop
Adalbert of Mainz, as a house of
Augustinian canons
Canons regular are priests who live in community under a rule ( and canon in greek) and are generally organised into religious orders, differing from both secular canons and other forms of religious life, such as clerics regular, designated by ...
. It was then bestowed by him in 1131 upon the
Benedictines.
This foundation failed to establish itself, and the successor, ''Kloster Eberbach'', was founded in 1136
by
Bernard of Clairvaux
Bernard of Clairvaux, O. Cist. ( la, Bernardus Claraevallensis; 109020 August 1153), venerated as Saint Bernard, was an abbot, mystic, co-founder of the Knights Templars, and a major leader in the reformation of the Benedictine Order throug ...
as the first Cistercian monastery on the east bank of the
Rhine
), Surselva, Graubünden, Switzerland
, source1_coordinates=
, source1_elevation =
, source2 = Rein Posteriur/Hinterrhein
, source2_location = Paradies Glacier, Graubünden, Switzerland
, source2_coordinates=
, so ...
.
Eberbach soon became one of the largest and most active monasteries of Germany. From it a number of other foundations were made:
Schönau Abbey
Schönau Abbey (''Kloster Schönau'') in Schönau in the Odenwald, in the Rhein-Neckar-Kreis in Baden-Württemberg, was a Cistercian monastery founded in 1142 from Eberbach Abbey. The present settlement of Schönau grew up round the monastery.
...
near
Heidelberg
Heidelberg (; Palatine German language, Palatine German: ''Heidlberg'') is a city in the States of Germany, German state of Baden-Württemberg, situated on the river Neckar in south-west Germany. As of the 2016 census, its population was 159,914 ...
in 1142;
Otterberg Abbey in the
Palatinate in 1144; Gottesthal Abbey near
Liège in 1155; and
Arnsburg Abbey in the
Wetterau
The Wetterau is a fertile undulating tract, watered by the Wetter, a tributary of the Nidda River, in the western German state of Hesse, between the hilly province Oberhessen and the north-western Taunus mountains.
Bettina von Arnim writes of ...
in 1174. At its height in the 12th and 13th centuries, the population is estimated to have been about 100 monks and over 200
lay brother
Lay brother is a largely extinct term referring to religious brothers, particularly in the Catholic Church, who focused upon manual service and secular matters, and were distinguished from choir monks or friars in that they did not pray in choir, ...
s.
Eberbach Abbey was also very successful economically, principally as a result of profits from the cultivation of vineyards and the production of wine.
At least 14 members of the family of the Counts of
Katzenelnbogen were buried in the church. Among them was Count Johann IV of Katzenelnbogen, who was the first to plant
Riesling
Riesling (, ; ) is a white grape variety that originated in the Rhine region. Riesling is an aromatic grape variety displaying flowery, almost perfumed, aromas as well as high acidity. It is used to make dry, semi-sweet, sweet, and sparkling wh ...
vines,
in a new vineyard in the nearby village of
Rüsselsheim, when the monks of Eberbach were still growing red grapes such as
Grobrot, the earliest grape variety recorded in Eberbach.
In about 1525 it is said that in the abbey there was an enormous wine barrel with a volume of between c. 50,000 and 100,000 litres, which in the
German Peasants' War of 1525 was heavily used by rebels from the Rheingau, who were encamped just below the monastery.
During the
Thirty Years' War
The Thirty Years' War was one of the longest and most destructive conflicts in European history, lasting from 1618 to 1648. Fought primarily in Central Europe, an estimated 4.5 to 8 million soldiers and civilians died as a result of battle ...
, the abbey was severely damaged,
beginning with an attack by the
Swedish
Swedish or ' may refer to:
Anything from or related to Sweden, a country in Northern Europe. Or, specifically:
* Swedish language, a North Germanic language spoken primarily in Sweden and Finland
** Swedish alphabet, the official alphabet used by ...
army in 1631. Many valuable items from the church and the library were looted, and the monks were forced to flee. Only 20 of them returned in 1635 to begin a laborious reconstruction.
The 18th century was a period of great economic success: surviving accounts show that the abbey profits were regularly invested on the
Frankfurt
Frankfurt, officially Frankfurt am Main (; Hessian: , " Frank ford on the Main"), is the most populous city in the German state of Hesse. Its 791,000 inhabitants as of 2022 make it the fifth-most populous city in Germany. Located on it ...
money market.
The final decline set in with the
French Revolution
The French Revolution ( ) was a period of radical political and societal change in France that began with the Estates General of 1789 and ended with the formation of the French Consulate in coup of 18 Brumaire, November 1799. Many of its ...
. After the ''
Reichsdeputationshauptschluss'' the abbey was dissolved on 18 September 1803 and with its assets and territory became the property of Prince
Friedrich Augustus of Nassau-Usingen.
After secularisation
The lands passed from Nassau-Usingen in 1866 to
Prussia
Prussia, , Old Prussian: ''Prūsa'' or ''Prūsija'' was a German state on the southeast coast of the Baltic Sea. It formed the German Empire under Prussian rule when it united the German states in 1871. It was ''de facto'' dissolved by an ...
, and from 1945 have formed part of the State of Hesse.
The premises were put to a variety of uses. An asylum was accommodated here until 1873 (the forerunner of the ''Zentrum für Soziale Psychiatrie Rheinblick'') and until 1912 a prison.
Management of the vineyards and wine production has continued in state hands. After considerable structural work Eberbach serves inter alia as a venue for cultural events and displays, and as a film location, as for example for
Umberto Eco
Umberto Eco (5 January 1932 – 19 February 2016) was an Italian medievalist, philosopher, semiotician, novelist, cultural critic, and political and social commentator. In English, he is best known for his popular 1980 novel ''The Name of th ...
's ''
The Name of the Rose
''The Name of the Rose'' ( it, Il nome della rosa ) is the 1980 debut novel by Italian author Umberto Eco. It is a historical murder mystery set in an Italian monastery in the year 1327, and an intellectual mystery combining semiotics in ficti ...
'' (1985).
Eberbach Abbey Foundation
With effect from 1 January 1998 the State of Hesse transferred the entire abbey complex into the ownership of a publicly owned charitable foundation, the ''Stiftung Kloster Eberbach'' ("Eberbach Abbey Foundation"), which has the goal of conserving the architectural and cultural monument by overseeing its appropriate, controlled and sustainable use as well as of maintaining the historical tradition of wine production.
Description
The buildings date from the
Romanesque,
Gothic
Gothic or Gothics may refer to:
People and languages
*Goths or Gothic people, the ethnonym of a group of East Germanic tribes
**Gothic language, an extinct East Germanic language spoken by the Goths
**Crimean Gothic, the Gothic language spoken b ...
and
Baroque periods. A property list, the ''Oculus Memoriae'', survives from as early as the year 1211, giving detailed information on the possessions and premises of the abbey complex. It was edited and published 1981-1987.
[Heinrich Meyer zu Ermgassen: "Der Oculus Memorie, ein Güterverzeichnis von 1211 aus Kloster Eberbach im Rheingau", Historischen Kommission für Nassau, Wiesbaden 1970 (Band 31). A phil. diss. (Dissertationsschrift)
part 1, introduction and analysis of the source: "Teil 1. Einführung und quellenkritische Untersuchungen", 1981, ISBN 3-922244-44-0;
part 2, edition: "Teil 2. Edition", 1984, ISBN 3-922244-60-2;
part 3, index: "Teil 3. Index zur Edition", 1987, ISBN 3-922244-75-0. ]
The buildings include:
* The abbey church,
a three-aisled Romanesque
basilica
In Ancient Roman architecture, a basilica is a large public building with multiple functions, typically built alongside the town's Forum (Roman), forum. The basilica was in the Latin West equivalent to a stoa in the Greek East. The building ...
with transept, containing the tombs of some of the
Archbishops of Mainz
* The cloisters, the south side of which is Gothic, the north side partly Gothic and partly Romanesque, and the remainder a 19th-century restoration
* The chapter room, a late Gothic square room with a central pillar, restored with ceiling and wall paintings
* The ''Fraternei'', an early Gothic room with heavy vaulting, used since the Middle Ages as a wine cellar. It is also known as the ''Cabinetkeller'', which is the origin of the use of the term ''
Kabinett
Kabinett (literal meaning: cabinet), or sometimes Kabinettwein (literal meaning: a wine set aside in a cabinet), is a German language wine term for a wine which is made from fully ripened grapes of the main harvest, typically picked in September, ...
'' as a quality description of German wine.
* The ''Dormitorium'' (dormitory),
an early Gothic room about 70 metres long containing vaulting and short columns with sculptured capitals, and one of the few such rooms of this size and quality remaining in Europe
* The north wing, refurbished in the 18th century and containing the refectory, with a Baroque stucco ceiling by
Daniel Schenk. It replaced the earlier Gothic refectory to the north
* The west wing, accommodating the library, where the abbey museum was set up in 1995. This contains inter alia the oldest surviving Cistercian glass window in Germany (of about 1180), the original capitals from the cloisters, now replaced by modern replicas, various sculptures, portraits of Bernard of Clairvaux and Baroque furnishings
* In a separate building to the west of the monastic quarters, the "conversI building" or "lay-brothers' building", containing the lay-brothers' refectory (45 metres long) and the ''Laiendormitorium'' (lay-brothers' dormitory) (at over 80 metres long, the largest surviving Romanesque secular room in Europe), and attached to it a Romanesque wine-cellar and various small domestic buildings from the 17th century
* Outside of the inner monastic precinct to the east, the hospital, service buildings and 18th and 19th century wine cellars
Wine production
The vineyards of Eberbach Abbey were, at 300 hectares, the largest in medieval Europe. Most of them are now the property of the state of Hesse and are run by the ''Hessische Staatsweingüter GmbH Kloster Eberbach'', which manages the largest connected area of wine production in Germany, comprising vineyards on the slopes of the Rhine Valley and on the ''
Hessische Bergstrasse''. Of the 238 hectares which are under cultivation, three-quarters are planted with
Riesling
Riesling (, ; ) is a white grape variety that originated in the Rhine region. Riesling is an aromatic grape variety displaying flowery, almost perfumed, aromas as well as high acidity. It is used to make dry, semi-sweet, sweet, and sparkling wh ...
, but
Chardonnay,
Pinot blanc
Pinot blanc is a white wine grape. It is a point genetic mutation of Pinot noir. Pinot noir is genetically unstable and will occasionally experience a point mutation in which a vine bears all black fruit except for one cane which produces white ...
,
Pinot gris
Pinot Gris, Pinot Grigio (, ) or Grauburgunder is a white wine grape variety of the species ''Vitis vinifera''. Thought to be a mutant clone of the Pinot Noir variety, it normally has a grayish-blue fruit, accounting for its name, but the gra ...
,
Pinot noir and
Dornfelder
Dornfelder is a dark-skinned variety of grape of German origin used for red wine. are also grown. Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach is a member of the
Verband Deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter
An umbrella organization is an association of (often related, industry-specific) institutions who work together formally to coordinate activities and/or pool resources. In business, political, and other environments, it provides resources and ofte ...
.
Burials
The church contains numerous interesting monuments and tombs, notable among them being those of:
*
Gerlach von Nassau, Archbishop of Mainz (died 1371)
*
Adolph II of Nassau
Adolph II (or III) of Nassau-Wiesbaden-Idstein (German: Adolf II. von Nassau-Wiesbaden-Idstein) (c. 1423 – 6 September 1475) was Archbishop of Mainz from 1461 until 1475.
Adolph was a son of Count Adolph II of Nassau-Wiesbaden-Idstein.
In 14 ...
(died 1475).
Today
The abbey has been the principal venue for the concerts of the
Rheingau Musik Festival
The (RMF) is an international summer music festival in Germany, founded in 1987. It is mostly for classical music, but includes other genres. Concerts take place at culturally important locations, such as Eberbach Abbey and Schloss Johannisberg, ...
since 1988, with concerts in the Basilika (church), the Dormitorium, the Laiendormitorium and the Kreuzgang (cloisters).
It has also been used for other concerts.
The public areas can be viewed daily, either with or without guided tours. Rooms can be booked for conferences and events. Wine tastings for groups can also be booked, and twice a year there are wine auctions.
On the night of 26 April 2005 the abbey suffered severe damage from flooding. This was due to heavy rain, which caused the Kisselbach river to overflow its banks, and the increased volume of water brought about the collapse of the 18th century storm drain under the abbey.
Restoration
Major restoration of the complex began in 1986, financed by the State of Hesse.
Restoration of the interior of the basilica began in March 2018. The project is estimated to cost 130 Million Euro and planned to be completed in 2024.
During restoration, new archeological finds have been made, which need to be preserved and documented. For example, parts of the Gothic floor and graves were found in the southern nave of the basilica.
References
Literature
* Wolfgang Einsingbach, Wolfgang Riedel: ''Kloster Eberbach''
DKV-KunstführerNo. 267, 17. Auflage,
Deutscher Kunstverlag
The Deutscher Kunstverlag (DKV) is an educational publishing house with offices in Berlin and Munich. The publisher specializes in books about art, cultural history, architecture, and historic preservation.
History
Deutscher Kunstverlag was fo ...
München Berlin 2007. (also available in English and French).
External links
*
*
Aerial views of Eberbach AbbeyHessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbachvdp.de
{{Authority control
Cistercian monasteries in Germany
Monasteries in Hesse
Religious organizations established in the 1130s
Christian monasteries established in the 12th century
Buildings and structures in Rheingau-Taunus-Kreis
Rheingau