Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an
Austria
Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...
n professional
rock climber
Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and ...
,
sport climber
Sport climbing (or Bolted climbing) is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors (or bolts), permanently fixed into the rock for climber protection, in which a rope that is attached to the climber is clipped into the anchors t ...
and
boulderer. He was World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in
Lead climbing
Lead climbing is a climbing style, predominantly used in rock climbing. In a roped party one climber has to take the lead while the other climbers follow. The ''lead climber'' wears a harness attached to a climbing rope, which in turn is connecte ...
. He has
redpointed to . In August 2021, he won bronze at the
2020 Summer Olympics
The , officially the and also known as , was an international multi-sport event held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some preliminary events that began on 21 July.
Tokyo was selected as the host city during the ...
in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Shubert had
won the most men’s IFSC gold medals of any competitive climber in history.
Biography
He started climbing in 2003, when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in the World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven world Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.
In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in
Arco
ARCO ( ) is a brand of gasoline stations currently owned by Marathon Petroleum after BP sold its rights. BP commercializes the brand in Northern California, Oregon and Washington, while Marathon has rights for the rest of the United States an ...
. The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).
In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in
Paris
Paris () is the capital and most populous city of France, with an estimated population of 2,165,423 residents in 2019 in an area of more than 105 km² (41 sq mi), making it the 30th most densely populated city in the world in 2020. S ...
.
In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.
In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and home town,
Innsbruck
Innsbruck (; bar, Innschbruck, label=Bavarian language, Austro-Bavarian ) is the capital of Tyrol (state), Tyrol and the List of cities and towns in Austria, fifth-largest city in Austria. On the Inn (river), River Inn, at its junction with the ...
. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as
Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete t ...
(36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after
Domen Skofic
Domen may refer to:
Places
*Domën, a village in Kryevidh commune, Tirana county, Albania
*Dömen, Bozdoğan, a village in Bozdoğan district, Aydın province, Turkey
*Domen, Norway, a mountain in Vardø municipality, Finnmark county
*Domen Butte, ...
. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.
Schubert's performance at the
2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the
Tokyo 2020 Olympics
The , officially the and also known as , was an international multi-sport event held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some preliminary events that began on 21 July.
Tokyo was selected as the host city during the 1 ...
where he won Bronze.
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
Climbing World Championships
Youth
Adult
Climbing European Championships
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
Lead
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
Bouldering
Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
:
:* ''Perfecto Mundo'' -
Margalef
Margalef is a village in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated on the edge of Montsant and is a popular ecotourism destination, especially among rock climbers
Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural r ...
(
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - November 9, 2019 - Third ascent (first by
Alexander Megos
Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to on-sight (climb on the first try without prior practice or advice) a route graded . He has completed multiple routes and boulder problems that are not ...
)
:
:* ''Neanderthal'' -
Santa Linya
Les Avellanes i Santa Linya is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of Noguera, in the province of Lleida, Catalonia
Catalonia (; ca, Catalunya ; Aranese Occitan: ''Catalonha'' ; es, Cataluña ) is an autonomous community of Spain, design ...
(
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - December 28, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
:* ''El Bon Combat'' -
Cova de I'Ocell Cova or COVA may refer to:
Places and jurisdictions
Algeria
* Cova, North Africa, the Ancient Roman city and modern Catholic titular see located at modern Ziama Mansouriah
Cape Verde
* Cova Figueira, a small city in the island of Fogo
* Cov ...
(
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - December 1, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
:* ''Stoking the Fire'' -
Santa Linya
Les Avellanes i Santa Linya is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of Noguera, in the province of Lleida, Catalonia
Catalonia (; ca, Catalunya ; Aranese Occitan: ''Catalonha'' ; es, Cataluña ) is an autonomous community of Spain, design ...
(
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - January 5, 2018 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013)
:* ''La Planta da Shiva'' -
Villanueva del Rosario (
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - January 4, 2016 - Second ascent after Adam Ondra
:* ''Fight or flight'' -
Oliana
Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in
Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir.
There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
(
) - December 31, 2014 - Third ascent (first by
Chris Sharma
Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
, 2011)
:* ''Catxasa'' -
Santa Linya
Les Avellanes i Santa Linya is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of Noguera, in the province of Lleida, Catalonia
Catalonia (; ca, Catalunya ; Aranese Occitan: ''Catalonha'' ; es, Cataluña ) is an autonomous community of Spain, design ...
(
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - January 9, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
:* ''Seleccio Anal'' -
Oliana
Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in
Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir.
There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
(
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - January 8, 2017
:* ''Pachamama'' -
Oliana
Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in
Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir.
There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
(
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - January 2, 2017 - Third ascent (first by
Chris Sharma
Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
, 2009)
:* ''Joe Mama'' -
Oliana
Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in
Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir.
There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
(
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - December 27, 2016 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
:* ''Kangroo Limb'' -
Flatanger
Flatanger is a municipality in Trøndelag county, Norway. It is part of the Namdalen region. The administrative centre of the municipality is the village of Lauvsnes. Other villages include Jøssund, Hasvåg, and Vik.
The municipality is the 2 ...
(
NOR) - May 29, 2016 - Second ascent after Adam Ondra
:* ''Companion of Change'' -
Zillertal
The Ziller Valley (german: Zillertal) is a valley in Tyrol, Austria that is drained by the Ziller River. It is the widest valley south of the Inn Valley (german: Inntal) and lends its name to the Zillertal Alps, the strongly glaciated section of t ...
(
AUT
AUT may refer to the following.
Locations
*Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code)
*Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin
*Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece
*Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code)
Organizations
*Arriva ...
) - November 18, 2015 - First ascent
:* ''Papichulo'' -
Oliana
Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in
Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir.
There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
(
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - April 27, 2011 - Sixth ascent (first by
Chris Sharma
Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April, 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
, 2008)
:
:* ''Kein Licht Kein Schatten'' -
Ötztal
The Ötztal is an alpine valley located in Tyrol, Austria. The Ötztaler Ache river flows through the valley in a northern direction. The Ötztal separates the Stubai Alps in the east from the Ötztal Alps in the west. The valley is long. The nor ...
(
) - November 8, 2016 - First ascent
:* ''Kraftplatzl'' -
Berglsteiner See (
AUT
AUT may refer to the following.
Locations
*Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code)
*Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin
*Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece
*Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code)
Organizations
*Arriva ...
) - October 15, 2016 - Second Ascent after
David Lama
David Lama ( ne, डेभिड लामा; 4 August 1990 – 16 April 2019) was an Austrian sport climber and mountaineer. He won the European Championship in bouldering in 2007 and the European Championship in lead climbing in 2006. He ...
:* ''Direct open your mind'' -
Santa Linya
Les Avellanes i Santa Linya is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of Noguera, in the province of Lleida, Catalonia
Catalonia (; ca, Catalunya ; Aranese Occitan: ''Catalonha'' ; es, Cataluña ) is an autonomous community of Spain, design ...
(
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - January 3, 2013
:* ''Fuck the System'' - Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013
:* ''Analogica Natural'' - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 2, 2013
:* ''Seleccio Natural'' - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 28, 2012
:* ''Ciudad de Dios'' - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 24, 2012
:* ''Martin Krpan'' -
Misja Pec (
) - November 21, 2011
:* ''Hades'' -
Nassereith
Nassereith is a municipality and a village in the Imst district of Austria and is located 11 km north of Imst on the upper course of the Gurgl brook
The Gurglbach is a river of Tyrol, Austria.
The Gurglbach originates on the rock face nea ...
, Götterwand (
AUT
AUT may refer to the following.
Locations
*Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code)
*Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin
*Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece
*Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code)
Organizations
*Arriva ...
) - May 30, 2010 - First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008
:* ''Underground'' - Massone,
Arco
ARCO ( ) is a brand of gasoline stations currently owned by Marathon Petroleum after BP sold its rights. BP commercializes the brand in Northern California, Oregon and Washington, while Marathon has rights for the rest of the United States an ...
(
ITA) - March 30, 2010 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
Onsight
__NOTOC__
This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases d ...
ed routes
:
:* ''Aitzol'' -
Margalef
Margalef is a village in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated on the edge of Montsant and is a popular ecotourism destination, especially among rock climbers
Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural r ...
(
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - April 23, 2011
:
Boulder problems
:8C (V15)
:*''Sierra Madre'' - Zillertal (
AUT
AUT may refer to the following.
Locations
*Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code)
*Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin
*Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece
*Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code)
Organizations
*Arriva ...
) - November 20, 2018
:
8B+ (V14)
:*''Witness the fitness'' - Cova de Ocell (
ESP
ESP most commonly refers to:
* Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability
ESP may also refer to:
Arts, entertainment Music
* ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars
* E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - January 13, 2019 - flashed
:*''Hide and Sick'' - Maltatal (
AUT
AUT may refer to the following.
Locations
*Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code)
*Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin
*Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece
*Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code)
Organizations
*Arriva ...
) - March 25, 2018
:*''Off the Wagon -'' Val Bavona (
CHE) January 10, 2020
:
See also
*
List of grade milestones in rock climbing
In rock climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint (climbing), redpoint, onsight or flash (climbing), flash of a pitch (ascent/descent), single-pitch, multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch (or big wall climbing, big wall), or bouldering ...
*
History of rock climbing
In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines: bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advan ...
*
Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
External links
*
*
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Schubert, Jakob
Austrian rock climbers
Living people
1990 births
Sportspeople from Innsbruck
Competitors at the 2013 World Games
World Games silver medalists
Competitors at the 2009 World Games
Olympic sport climbers of Austria
Sport climbers at the 2020 Summer Olympics
Medalists at the 2020 Summer Olympics
Olympic bronze medalists for Austria
Olympic medalists in sport climbing