Hassan Sadpara
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Hassan Sadpara PP (born Hassan Asad; April 1963 – 21 November 2016) was a Pakistani mountaineer and adventurer from
Skardu , nickname = , motto = , image_skyline = , map_caption = , pushpin_map = Gilgit Baltistan#Pakistan , pushpin_label_position ...
in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. He is the first
Pakistan Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 243 million people, and has the world's second-lar ...
i to have climbed six
eight-thousanders The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no ...
including the world's highest peak
Everest Mount Everest (; Tibetic languages, Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is List of highest mountains on Earth, Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border ru ...
(8848m), K2 (8611m),
Gasherbrum I Gasherbrum I ( ur, ; ), surveyed as K5 and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is located in Shigar District in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is part of the G ...
(8080m),
Gasherbrum II Gasherbrum II ( ur, ; ); surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan ...
(8034m),
Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat ( ur, ) (; ), known locally as Diamer () which means “king of the mountains”, is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth, its summit at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in ...
(8126 m) and
Broad Peak Broad Peak ( ur, ) is a mountain in the Karakoram on the border of Pakistan and China, the twelfth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It was first ascended in June 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, ...
(8051m). He is also credited for summiting five of the eight-thousanders without using supplemental oxygen. Contrary to initial reports, Hassan Sadpara clarified that he used supplemental oxygen during his Everest ascent due to bad weather.


Background

Hassan Sadpara was born into a poor family in " Sadpara", a small village in a remote area of Baltistan, some 7 miles away from
Skardu , nickname = , motto = , image_skyline = , map_caption = , pushpin_map = Gilgit Baltistan#Pakistan , pushpin_label_position ...
. There was no school during his childhood, so Hassan helped his family as a farmer and a shepherd. His biggest regret in life was that he never went to school; he was proud of providing education to his children. He had four children (3 sons and a daughter). His eldest son Arif is studying for a degree in
Master of Business Administration A Master of Business Administration (MBA; also Master's in Business Administration) is a postgraduate degree focused on business administration. The core courses in an MBA program cover various areas of business administration such as accoun ...
He began his mountaineering career as a high altitude porter in 1993 and became a celebrated climber after conquering Mount Everest. He owned a small shop of used mountaineering equipment in
Skardu , nickname = , motto = , image_skyline = , map_caption = , pushpin_map = Gilgit Baltistan#Pakistan , pushpin_label_position ...
. It was his dedication and self-confidence that led him to the summits of the world's highest peaks.


Career

He was the second Baltistani to have summited all five of the 8000m peaks of Pakistan, after Nisar Hussain (also of Sadpara village). Unlike most climbers from the West, who are equipped with state-of-the-art climbing gear (and often sponsored by multinational corporations), Hassan Sadpara began his career from scratch, with very few resources, and climbed with whatever gear he could manage to afford. He had worked as a porter for expeditions, including ones led by
Korea Korea ( ko, 한국, or , ) is a peninsular region in East Asia. Since 1945, it has been divided at or near the 38th parallel, with North Korea (Democratic People's Republic of Korea) comprising its northern half and South Korea (Republic o ...
ns and
Poles Poles,, ; singular masculine: ''Polak'', singular feminine: ''Polka'' or Polish people, are a West Slavic nation and ethnic group, who share a common history, culture, the Polish language and are identified with the country of Poland in C ...
. He ran a shop for used and new mountaineering equipment in the Skardu bazaar. After his successful summit of Mount Everest, he said in an interview that he could summit all the Top 14 mountain peaks if he were sponsored and had requested the Pakistan government or international corporations in his regard. His other dream was to open a mountaineering school in his city so that he and others like him can transfer their knowledge to youth from around the world.


Award

In 2008, Government of Pakistan awarded him the President's Pride of Performance. On 14 August 2019, Government of Pakistan posthumously awarded him the President's Pride of Performance for his numerous notable feats that include him being the first Pakistani to have scaled six eight-thousanders which also include the highest peak in the world,
Mount Everest Mount Everest (; Tibetic languages, Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is List of highest mountains on Earth, Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border ru ...
. The awards ceremony was held on 23 March 2020.


Mountaineering consultant

Hassan Sadpara was a free consultant for new climbers. He provided guidance to the team of Pakistan's "First Big Wall Climbing Expedition".


Significant climbs

Unlike other well-equipped climbers sometimes sponsored by multinational companies, especially those from Western countries, Hassan was the only Pakistani who had climbed: * K2 (8611m) on 27 July 2004 *
Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat ( ur, ) (; ), known locally as Diamer () which means “king of the mountains”, is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth, its summit at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in ...
(8126m) on 2 July 1999 *
Gasherbrum I Gasherbrum I ( ur, ; ), surveyed as K5 and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is located in Shigar District in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is part of the G ...
(G-1) (8080m) in 2006 *
Broad Peak Broad Peak ( ur, ) is a mountain in the Karakoram on the border of Pakistan and China, the twelfth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It was first ascended in June 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, ...
(8051m) in 2007 *
Gasherbrum II Gasherbrum II ( ur, ; ); surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan ...
(G-2) (8034m) in 2006 *
Mount Everest Mount Everest (; Tibetic languages, Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is List of highest mountains on Earth, Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border ru ...
(8848m) on 11 May 2011


Death

On 8 October 2016, he was diagnosed with blood cancer. After a short stay at a private hospital in Rawalpindi, he was admitted to Combined Military Hospital. Hassan Sadpara died on 21 November 2016, at Combined Military Hospital, Rawalpindi, where he was being treated for multiple diseases including blood cancer. He was buried at his ancestral graveyard in Hargisa Shqthang Skardu.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Sadpara, Hassan 1963 births 2016 deaths Pakistani mountain climbers Pakistani summiters of Mount Everest People from Skardu District People from Gilgit-Baltistan Balti people Recipients of the Pride of Performance Pakistani summiters of K2