Hans Kammerlander (born 6 December 1956,

Bolzano Bolzano ( or ; german: Bozen, (formerly ); bar, Bozn; lld, Balsan or ) is the capital city of the province of South Tyrol in northern Italy. With a population of 108,245, Bolzano is also by far the largest city in South Tyrol and the third la ...

South Tyrol it, Provincia Autonoma di Bolzano – Alto Adige lld, Provinzia Autonoma de Balsan/Bulsan – Südtirol , settlement_type = Autonomous province , image_skyline = , image_alt ...

Italy Italy ( it, Italia ), officially the Italian Republic, ) or the Republic of Italy, is a country in Southern Europe. It is located in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, and its territory largely coincides with the homonymous geographical re ...

) is an

Italian Italian(s) may refer to: * Anything of, from, or related to the people of Italy over the centuries ** Italians, an ethnic group or simply a citizen of the Italian Republic or Italian Kingdom ** Italian language, a Romance language *** Regional Ita ...

mountaineer Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, an ...

, living in Ahornach, a hamlet nearby

Sand in Taufers Sand in Taufers (; it, Campo Tures ) is a ''comune mercato'' (market town) in South Tyrol in northern Italy. Geography Located about northeast of Bolzano, the town centre is situated in the Tauferer Ahrntal (Taufers) valley of the Ahr river, str ...

. He has climbed 13 of the 14 8000m peaks. In 1984, together with

Reinhold Messner Reinhold Andreas Messner (; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian mountaineer, explorer, and author from South Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental ...

he was the first climber to traverse two 8000 m peaks before descending to base camp.

Biography

He teamed with Messner, the first man to climb all fourteen 8000m peaks, on successful climbs of

Cho Oyu __NOTOC__ Cho Oyu (Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the ''Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur ...

Gasherbrum I Gasherbrum I ( ur, ; ), surveyed as K5 and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is located in Shigar District in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan. Gasherbrum I is part of the Ga ...

and II,

Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country (Nepal). It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapurna I () is ...

Annapurna Annapurna (; ne, अन्नपूर्ण) is a mountain situated in the Annapurna mountain range of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. It is the tenth highest mountain in the world at above sea level and is well known for the difficu ...

Makalu Makalu ( ne, मकालु हिमाल, Makālu himāl; zh, t=馬卡魯峰, p=Mǎkǎlǔ fēng) is the fifth highest mountain in the world at . It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas southeast of Mount Everest, in Nepal. One of th ...

, and

Lhotse Lhotse ( ne, ल्होत्से ; , ''lho tse'', ) is the fourth highest mountain in the world at , after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. The main summit is on the border between Tibet Autonomous Region of China and the Khumbu ...

, and is a

UIAGM The ''Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes'' is the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations, known alternatively by its French, German and English English usually refers to: * English language * Engl ...

mountain guide (English, International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations).

Chris Bonington Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL (born 6 August 1934) is a British mountaineer. His career has included nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest. Early life and expeditions Bonington's father, w ...

described Messner's relationship with Kammerlander as the most "amicable" of Messner's climbing partnerships. Since 1996, he held the

Guinness World Record ''Guinness World Records'', known from its inception in 1955 until 1999 as ''The Guinness Book of Records'' and in previous United States editions as ''The Guinness Book of World Records'', is a reference book published annually, listing world ...

for the fastest ascent without supplemental oxygen of Mount

Everest Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow heigh ...

(16 hours and 45 minutes) and fastest ascent from Everest North Base Camp. In 1990 he made the first ski descent of

Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat ( ur, ) (; ), known locally as Diamer () which means “king of the mountains”, is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth, its summit at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in ...

. In 1996 he failed in an attempt to be the first to ski down

Mount Everest Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow heig ...

, after removing his skis and climbing down from 300 metres below the summit, skiing down from 7700m, although he set a then speed record during that attempt of 17 hours to climb from base camp to the summit of Everest via the

North Col __NOTOC__ The North Col (; ) refers to the sharp-edged pass carved by glaciers in the ridge connecting Mount Everest and Changtse in Tibet. It forms the head of the East Rongbuk Glacier. When climbers attempt to climb Everest via the North ridge ...

. Kammerlander also abandoned an attempt to be the first to ski from the summit of K2 when he saw a

Korean Korean may refer to: People and culture * Koreans, ethnic group originating in the Korean Peninsula * Korean cuisine * Korean culture * Korean language **Korean alphabet, known as Hangul or Chosŏn'gŭl **Korean dialects and the Jeju language ** ...

climber fall to his death. In 2001 Kammerlander announced that he would not attempt to climb

Manaslu Manaslu ( ne, मनास्लु, also known as Kutang; muh-NAA-slu) is the eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. The name Mana ...

, necessary to complete all 8000m peaks, due to losing several close friends on an attempt on the mountain. In 2012, Kammerlander claimed to be the first man to have climbed the

Seven Second Summits The Seven Second Summits are the second-highest mountains of each of the seven continents. All of these mountain peaks are separate peaks rather than a sub-peak of the continents' high point. The Seven Second Summits are considered by many mountain ...

, the second highest summits on all seven continents. However, there are claims that Kammerlander may have only climbed the lower West Summit of

Mount Logan Mount Logan () is the highest mountain in Canada and the second-highest peak in North America after Denali. The mountain was named after Sir William Edmond Logan, a Canadian geologist and founder of the Geological Survey of Canada (GSC). Mount ...

. It is also claimed that

Puncak Trikora Puncak Trikora, until 1963 Wilhelmina Peak, is a 4,730 or mountain in the Highland Papua province of Indonesia on New Guinea. It lies in the eastern part of the Sudirman (Nassau) Range of the Maoke Mountains. Behind Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyr ...

, climbed by Kammerlander as part of the challenge, is not the second highest summit in Oceania. In which case Kammerlander will have to climb the main summit of Mount Logan, and climb

Puncak Mandala Puncak Mandala or Mandala Peak (until 1963 Julianatop or Juliana Peak) is a mountain located in Highland Papua, Indonesia. At , it is the highest point of the Jayawijaya (Orange) Range and included in Seven Second Summits. Following Mount Carste ...

New Guinea New Guinea (; Hiri Motu Hiri Motu, also known as Police Motu, Pidgin Motu, or just Hiri, is a language of Papua New Guinea, which is spoken in surrounding areas of Port Moresby (Capital of Papua New Guinea). It is a simplified version of ...

to complete the Seven Second Summits.

Works

*''Abstieg zum Erfolg (2000) Piper Verlag GmbH, . *''Fou d'altitude'' (2001) Guerin, . *''Sopra e sotto. Storie di montagna'' (with Ingrid Beikircher, V. Montagna) (2004) Piper Verlag GmbH, . *''Unten und oben: Berggeschichten'' (with Raimund Prinoth) (2005) Piper Verlag GmbH, . *''Am seidenen Faden: K2 und andere Grenzerfahrungen'' (2005) Piper Verlag GmbH, . *''Appeso a un filo di seta. Il K2 e altre esperienze estreme'' (with V. Montagna) (2006) Corbaccio, . *''Windgeflüster: Hans Kammerlander 50'' (with Sigi Pircher) (2006) Athesia Gmbh Verlagsansta, . *''Direttissima zum Erfolg: Was (Automobil-)Manager vom Höhenbergsteigen lernen können'' (2008) Piper Verlag GmbH, . *''Bergsüchtig: Klettern und Abfahren in der Todeszone'' (2009) Piper Verlag GmbH, . *''Malato di montagna'' (with A. Di Bello) (2009) Corbaccio, .

References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Kammerlander, Hans 1956 births Living people Alpine guides Italian mountain climbers Italian male ski mountaineers Italian male writers Sportspeople from Bolzano Italian summiters of Mount Everest

Biography

Works

See also

References