Food and the Scottish royal household
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Some of the remaining and ruined Scottish royal palaces have kitchens, and the halls or chambers where food was served, and rooms where food and tableware were stored. There is an extensive archival record of the 16th-century royal kitchen in the series of households accounts in the
National Records of Scotland , type = Non-ministerial government department , logo = National Records of Scotland logo.svg , logo_width = , picture = , picture_width = , picture_caption = , formed = , preceding1 = National Archives of Scotland , preceding2 = General Regi ...
, known as the ''Liber Emptorum'', the ''Liber Domicilii'' and the ''Despences de la Maison Royale'', which are daily records of the purchase of food and drink. The royal kitchens in the 1530s employed around 60 people. Supplies of food for the royal household were known as "furnishing" and were usually managed by the Masters of the Household. Charles II came to Scotland in 1650 and a new Scottish household was created for him, and an account of food and spices survives for his stay at Falkland, Stirling, and Perth, where he may have stayed in the old Gowrie House.


Kitchens in the royal palaces

There are no 16th-century inventories of kitchen equipment in the palaces. There are references to making furnishings, like the chests or "great kists" made for the petty larder and the silver vessel house at Stirling in 1532 made from "Eastland boards". The same carpenters panelled or partitioned a space called the "kitchen dressory" where food was plated up for serving. They made an oak table for the dressory, a frame for the serving hatch, and a chest for dried salmon. Four gardeners improved a kitchen garden and sowed lettuce and
thyme Thyme () is the herb (dried aerial parts) of some members of the genus '' Thymus'' of aromatic perennial evergreen herbs in the mint family Lamiaceae. Thymes are relatives of the oregano genus ''Origanum'', with both plants being mostly indigen ...
. Two iron frying pans were bought for the king's kitchen in 1525 and new pewter was bought for Christmas, including four chargers for the king's table, and other dishes and English plates. Murdo Stirling, ''
pâtissier A pastry chef or pâtissier (; the French female version of the word is pâtissière ), is a station chef in a professional kitchen, skilled in the making of pastries, desserts, breads and other baked goods. They are employed in large hotels, bis ...
'' for Mary of Guise, bought four
waffle iron A waffle iron or waffle maker is a utensil or appliance used to cook waffles. It comprises two metal plates with a connecting hinge, molded to create the honeycomb pattern found on waffles. The iron is heated and either batter is poured or dou ...
s in March 1539, and in June 1540 supervised the installation of ovens in the king's ships, including the ''
Salamander Salamanders are a group of amphibians typically characterized by their lizard-like appearance, with slender bodies, blunt snouts, short limbs projecting at right angles to the body, and the presence of a tail in both larvae and adults. All t ...
'' for a voyage to Orkney. A new stone oven at Holyrood Palace in 1532 had a floor made of specially selected tufa stone from
North Berwick North Berwick (; gd, Bearaig a Tuath) is a seaside town and former royal burgh in East Lothian, Scotland. It is situated on the south shore of the Firth of Forth, approximately east-northeast of Edinburgh. North Berwick became a fashionable ...
. The roof of kitchen was provided with a
louvre The Louvre ( ), or the Louvre Museum ( ), is the world's most-visited museum, and an historic landmark in Paris, France. It is the home of some of the best-known works of art, including the ''Mona Lisa'' and the ''Venus de Milo''. A central l ...
for ventilation, resembling a beehive, an "aiphous in the heid of the samen for the mair vent". Mary, Queen of Scots, had coal brought from
Wallyford Wallyford is a village near Musselburgh and approximately east of Edinburgh in East Lothian, Scotland. History The village was initially populated by coal miners and later grew as an overspill/commuter town for workers in Musselburgh and Edi ...
for the fires in her own apartments, possibly the kitchen ovens were fuelled with wood and charcoal. In 1505 James IV lands at
Bonnington Bonnington is a dispersed village and civil parish on the northern edge of the Romney Marsh in Ashford District of Kent, England. The village is located to the south of the town of Ashford on the B2067 ( Hamstreet to Hythe road). Bonnington h ...
including a coal pit to his master cook Thomas Schaw, who was expected to deliver coal to Linlithgow Palace. Some kitchen equipment was included in an inventory of artillery at Edinburgh Castle in March 1567. It may represent a kitchen within an older Kitchen Tower then serving the castle gunners. There was an iron brander or grid-iron, two iron racks, two spits, and two dressing board tables. In the new bakehouse there was baking board, a storage girnel, and a trough. There were hand-mills for grinding wheat in a cellar. A brewhouse contained a "masking vat", a kettle, a "gyle" vat, and a "cumming", which was a vessel used in brewhouses. Similarly named items appear in the inventories of other Scottish houses and castles. More kitchenalia was detailed in a 1562 inventory of the Earl of Moray, the half-brother of Mary, Queen of Scots, including; skimming ladles, frying pans, goose pans, roasting irons, pestles and mortars, a block stock and a flesh (meat) stock, dressing knives, a coal rake, and pewter plates and vessels.


Stewart silver

James V had various items of silver and silver gilt plate for the table and for display on the cupboard in hall. In 1531 he acquired a quantity of silver plate from Nicholas Cannavett or Canivet, French comptroller of
Dunbar Dunbar () is a town on the North Sea coast in East Lothian in the south-east of Scotland, approximately east of Edinburgh and from the English border north of Berwick-upon-Tweed. Dunbar is a former royal burgh, and gave its name to an ecc ...
, including two square trenchers with salt containers in the corner. These were in Edinburgh Castle in 1543 with other treasures like a silver cup said to have belonged to
Robert the Bruce Robert I (11 July 1274 – 7 June 1329), popularly known as Robert the Bruce (Scottish Gaelic: ''Raibeart an Bruis''), was King of Scots from 1306 to his death in 1329. One of the most renowned warriors of his generation, Robert eventual ...
. Mary, Queen of Scots took silverware engraved with the royal arms on her ship to France in 1548 for the ''cuisine de bouche''. James V had two silver gilt ships or nefs for the table, his grandson James VI sent them for repair by a Canongate goldsmith James Acheson in 1602. Some of the family silver was melted down by
Regent Moray James Stewart, 1st Earl of Moray (c. 1531 – 23 January 1570) was a member of the House of Stewart as the illegitimate son of King James V of Scotland. A supporter of his half-sister Mary, Queen of Scots, he was the regent of Scotland for hi ...
in 1567. James VI acquired a cup fashioned from an ostrich egg mounted in silver in 1589. In October 1590 the master of the wine cellar
Jerome Bowie Jerome Bowie (died 1597) was a servant of James VI of Scotland as a sommelier, in charge of the purchase and serving of wine. Family backgound Jerome Bowie's family was from Stirling. His father is thought to have been Andrew Bowie, a gunner emp ...
and the master of household
Andrew Melville Andrew Melville (1 August 1545 – 1622) was a Scottish scholar, theologian, poet and religious reformer. His fame encouraged scholars from the European continent to study at Glasgow and St. Andrews. He was born at Baldovie, on 1 August 154 ...
made an inventory of old and new silver kept in the cuphouse with the pieces held for daily use by Francis Galbraith in the king's pantry.


Linlithgow Palace

The kitchens at Linlithgow Palace are on three levels within the tower at the north end of the Great Hall. They were modified in 1464, 1470–1, and 1539. Some alterations were occasioned by subsidence. The court kitchen is adjacent to the Great Hall. The room next door was probably the spice house. In August 1539
James Hamilton of Finnart Sir James Hamilton of Finnart (c. 1495 – 16 August 1540) was a Scottish nobleman and architect, the illegitimate son of James Hamilton, 1st Earl of Arran, and Marion Boyd of Bonshaw. Although legitimated in 1512 while still a minor, he contin ...
was paid for rebuilding the king's kitchen with a fireplace, an oven, and a room for silver vessels, and another for keeping coal. There is a well in the lower "laich" kitchen. The wine cellar is under the royal lodgings on the west side. A carved stone corbel depicts a figure drinking. The palace museum has an eel fork used to catch eels in the loch.


Stirling Castle

Vaulted cellars which served as a kitchen at Stirling Castle were discovered in 1920. This included a bakehouse and larder for bread. There was a kitchen space and a "dressory" for the preparation of food. These preparation spaces open into a corridor which probably linked to the hall. Another, separate, kitchen was provided for James IV in his lodging now known as the King's Old Building, and there was a "petty larder", pantry, and wine cellar. James V and Mary of Guise had kitchens in the cellar of the new Palace. The location of the castle brew house has not been discovered. In 1533 a priest James Nicholson was in charge of the building fabric at Stirling, and he also fed cranes, herons, peacocks, and bitterns for the king's table. In March 1558 a carpenter Sandy Lawson made a cupboard for Mary of Guise's kitchen called a "gardemange", and a mason, Alexander Loverance, built a passageway from the queen's kitchen to a stairway.


Food archaeology at Stirling Castle

Archaeological finds of animal bone at Stirling Castle from the 16th century include cat bones, cattle, goat, horse, pig, red deer, roe deer, and sheep. Cattle and sheep bones dominated the finds. The cattle were mostly at least two to three years, the finds indicating that the cattle and sheep had been farmed for meat. Finds from the 1594 Chapel Royal site were the bone of animals butchered elsewhere, while the deer had been brought to the castle complete. The finds of bones from whole deer are compatible with the archival record of food gifts. Herring, cod, pollack, coal-fish (
saithe The saithe ( or ) (''Pollachius virens'') is a species of marine fish in the Pollock genus '' Pollachius''. Together with '' P. pollachius'', it is generally referred to in the United States as pollock. Other names include the Boston blue (separ ...
) and other fish bones were present, including some freshwater fish. Shellfish included oysters and mussels. Delicacies mentioned in the archival record, like roasted baby (boneless) rabbit are unlikely to be leave a trace in the archaeology. Plant and cereal remains included oats, barley, wheat, and rye. Some seeds of pulses, turnip, cabbage and mustard, were possibly incorporated in a condiment. Fruit was represented by a plum stone. A hazelnut shell may have been part of meal. Traces of plants perhaps categorized as weeds, hemlock and henbane, may have been incorporated in medicines. Rushes were used on the floor. More evidence for the castle diet in future may be found with the careful excavation and examination of cesspit deposits.


Dunfermline Palace

At
Dunfermline Palace Dunfermline Palace is a ruined former Scottish royal palace and important tourist attraction in Dunfermline, Fife, Scotland. It is currently, along with other buildings of the adjacent Dunfermline Abbey, under the care of Historic Environment ...
some remains of a kitchen can be seen which served both the hall of the royal lodging and the monastic refectory in the 15th century. There are also remains of a second kitchen serving the royal lodgings.


Falkland Palace

At
Falkland Palace Falkland Palace, in Falkland, Fife, Scotland, is a royal palace of the Scottish Kings. It was one of the favourite places of Mary, Queen of Scots, providing an escape from political and religious turmoil. Today it is under the stewardship of ...
there was a kitchen to serve the demolished great hall at the garden end of the ruined east quarter. A bakehouse in a cellar kitchen area at the east tower has a service stair accessing the first floor royal lodgings in the east quarter at the other end. Another kitchen in the gatehouse tower served the keeper's lodging. Accounts survive for Charles II's stay in July 1650. His food was seasoned with saffron, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, and ginger. Every tart provided for the king's table had a pound of sugar, while tarts for lesser courtiers required only half a pound. A servant of the king's tailor was discovered to have taken one of the royal napkins and unpicked the embroidered initials.


Holyrood Palace

Although the old kitchens and Great Hall of Holyrood Palace have been demolished, the supper room, an intimate space in the royal bedchamber, where
Mary, Queen of Scots Mary, Queen of Scots (8 December 1542 – 8 February 1587), also known as Mary Stuart or Mary I of Scotland, was Queen of Scotland from 14 December 1542 until her forced abdication in 1567. The only surviving legitimate child of James V of S ...
dined with
David Rizzio David Rizzio ( ; it, Davide Rizzio ; – 9 March 1566) or Riccio ( , ) was an Italian courtier, born in Pancalieri close to Turin, a descendant of an ancient and noble family still living in Piedmont, the Riccio Counts di San Paolo e Solbrito ...
can still be seen. The day after the death of Lord Darnley at the
Kirk o' Field The Collegiate Church of St Mary in the Fields (commonly known as Kirk o' Field) was a pre-Reformation collegiate church in Edinburgh, Scotland. Likely founded in the 13th century and secularised at the Reformation, the church's site is now covered ...
, the servant known as "French Paris" came to queen's bedchamber to hang her bed with mourning black and light candles. A lady in waiting, Marie, Lady Seton gave him a fried egg for his breakfast, presumably prepared on a fireplace in the royal suite.


Reception for Margaret Tudor at Holyrood

An English herald, John Young, wrote about etiquette and seating arrangements at meals during the reception of
Margaret Tudor Margaret Tudor (28 November 1489 – 18 October 1541) was Queen of Scotland from 1503 until 1513 by marriage to King James IV. She then served as regent of Scotland during her son's minority, and successfully fought to extend her regency. Ma ...
at Holyrood in 1503. He mentions some dishes at the dinner following her wedding on 8 August. The first course involved a gilded boar's head on a platter, a fair piece of brawn, and gammon ham. Apart from these delicacies, Young does not specify other foods. The ingredients of brawn, calf's head and jelly or aspic are frequently mentioned in later Scottish royal household books. A menu for the whole banquet survives, copied into a London chronicle. It lists the same three opening dishes of the first course as, "The Borys head solemnly shedd, Sheydis & Rondis of Braun with mustard, Gambonys of Bacon with pestellys of pork". Desserts were served with "custard royall". Spiced "
Hippocras Hippocras ( ca, Pimentes de clareya; lat, vīnum Hippocraticum), sometimes spelled hipocras or hypocras, is a drink made from wine mixed with sugar and spices, usually including cinnamon, and possibly heated. After steeping the spices in the ...
" wine was made by the apothecary, John Mosman.


The Earl of Atholl's banquet in Glen Tilt

A chronicle written by
Robert Lindsay of Pitscottie Robert Lindsay of Pitscottie (also Lindesay or Lyndsay; c. 1532–1580) was a Scottish chronicler, author of ''The Historie and Chronicles of Scotland, 1436–1565'', the first history of Scotland to be composed in Scots rather than Lati ...
in the 1570s describes a banquet prepared by the
Earl of Atholl The Mormaer or Earl of Atholl was the title of the holder of a medieval comital lordship straddling the highland province of Atholl (''Ath Fodhla''), now in northern Perthshire. Atholl is a special Mormaerdom, because a King of Atholl is repor ...
for James V to impress a Papal ambassador. This event seems to have taken place in 1532 in a temporary wooden lodge built like a castle in
Glen Tilt Glen Tilt (Scottish Gaelic: Gleann Teilt) is a glen in the extreme north of Perthshire, Scotland. Beginning at the confines of Aberdeenshire, it follows a South-westerly direction excepting for the last 4 miles, when it runs due south to Blai ...
near
Pitlochry Pitlochry (; gd, Baile Chloichridh or ) is a town in the Perth and Kinross council area of Scotland, lying on the River Tummel. It is historically in the county of Perthshire, and has a population of 2,776, according to the 2011 census.Scotlan ...
. The banquet, as represented by Pitscottie, included:
all manner of meats (foods), drinks, delicacies that was to be gotten at that time in all Scotland either in burgh or in land that might be gotten for money; that is to say, all kind of drink, as ale, beer, wine, both white wine and claret, malvassy, musticat and allicant, inchethrist (or hippocras) and aqua vitae. Further, there was of meats, of bread, white bread main breid and gingerbread, with fleshes (meats), beef, mutton, lamb, cunning (rabbit), crane, swan, wild goose, partridge and plover, duck, "brissill cock" (turkeys) and powins (peacocks) together with black cock and moor fowl and capercaillies and also the stanks (moat) that was round about the palace was sowmond (stocked) full of all delicate fishes, as salmon, trout and perches, pikes and eels and all other kind of delicate fishes that could be gotten in fresh waters was all ready to be prepared for the banquet. Since was there proper stewards and cunning bakers and also excellent cooks and pattisiers with confections and drugs for their desserts.
There are records of several other hunting royal trips. Food was brought from elsewhere. Since the 15th century there was a Hunt Hall in
Glen Finglas Glen Finglas ( gd, Gleann Fhionnghlais) is a glen in the Trossachs, in the Stirling council area of Scotland. It is an area of forest in Highlands of the former county of Perthshire, north of Brig o' Turk, close to Callander in Menteith. T ...
to accommodate the royal party. James IV came to the Hunt Hall in July 1492. In August 1505 he was supplied with dairy goods by two women from Duntreath, and eels and pikes from the
Lake of Menteith Lake of Menteith, also known as Loch Inchmahome (Scottish Gaelic: ''Loch Innis Mo Cholmaig''), is a loch in Scotland located on the Carse of Stirling (the flood plain of the upper reaches of the rivers Forth and Teith, upstream from Stirling). ...
. In August 1538 James V and Mary of Guise, with six ladies in waiting, went to Glen Finglas, bringing provisions bought in Stirling. Mary, Queen of Scots spent three days in Glen Finglas in September 1563. James V stayed at Cultybraggan near
Comrie Comrie may refer to: Places *Comrie (crater), a lunar crater *Comrie, Fife, a village in Fife, Scotland *Comrie, Perth and Kinross, a village and parish in Strathearn, Scotland People with the surname *Aaron Comrie (born 1997), Scottish footballer ...
to hunt deer in September 1532, bringing bread, ale, and fish from Stirling. He frequently hunted in Glen Artney.


The archival record


Workers and wages

Wages and fees for servants in the royal kitchen can be found in the accounts of the comptroller, published as the Exchequer Rolls, which include some food purchases. For instance,
James IV James IV (17 March 1473 – 9 September 1513) was King of Scotland from 11 June 1488 until his death at the Battle of Flodden in 1513. He inherited the throne at the age of fifteen on the death of his father, James III, at the Battle of Sauch ...
provided a ship for Perkin Warbeck's servants with mutton, barrels of salmon and herring, and dried cod. Around the same time, James IV's officers sold fleeces, mutton and sheep intestines. Almost all the named kitchen workers were men, except the linen laundress, Margaret Musche in 1496. James IV kept a separate household from his wife
Margaret Tudor Margaret Tudor (28 November 1489 – 18 October 1541) was Queen of Scotland from 1503 until 1513 by marriage to King James IV. She then served as regent of Scotland during her son's minority, and successfully fought to extend her regency. Ma ...
with two kitchens, the master cook of his court kitchen was Thomas Schaw, and the master cook of the king's kitchen was William Arth. Each kitchen had yeoman and junior "groom cooks", and two "turnbroches" who tended the fires and turned spits. He also employed brewers and bakers.


Household books and purchasing

One unlucky comptroller of the exchequer, James Colville was sacked in 1538 and charged with treason for his friendship with the Douglas family. He was made personally responsible for £879 worth of wax, spice, and other goods supplied to the household by an Edinburgh merchant, William Tod. The next comptroller, David Wood of Craig, was promoted from Master of King's Larder. Wood noted that suppliers could, "if their conscience would serve them", claim payment several times over, as the royal accounts were kept in such in a way that payments were not recorded. The exchequer rolls for 1507 record two swans costing 12 shillings bought for a feast, a purchase omitted by mistake from the household books. Household books from the reign of James IV in 1511 until the end of the rule of the Earl of Arran as Regent in 1553 survive in the National Archives of Scotland in two series, known as the ''Liber Domicilli'' (NRS E31) and ''Liber Emptorum'' (NRS E32). These are written in Latin. The two series duplicate daily summaries of food purchases. The ''Liber Emptorum'' books also contain lists of extra purchases called "uncosts", including cord to hang poultry in the larder. James IV held a banquet for Christmas 1511, inviting a French ambassador. Lamb, piglets, quail, plovers, snipe, with young rabbits and a large quantity of calfs' foot jelly were served. James IV also held banquets on his newly-built ships, including the '' Margaret'', at
Leith Leith (; gd, Lìte) is a port area in the north of the city of Edinburgh, Scotland, founded at the mouth of the Water of Leith. In 2021, it was ranked by ''Time Out'' as one of the top five neighbourhoods to live in the world. The earliest ...
or Newhaven close to Edinburgh. An extract from the household books giving an idea of the diet of James V in his minority and the early years of his reign was published in 1836. Each day the whereabouts and movements of the monarch were noted. These records have often been consulted by historians and cited for the royal itineraries and significant dates. For instance, on 11 June 1533 James V went on pilgrimage to the shrine of
St Ninian Ninian is a Christian saint, first mentioned in the 8th century as being an early missionary among the Pictish peoples of what is now Scotland. For this reason he is known as the Apostle to the Southern Picts, and there are numerous dedication ...
at
Whithorn Whithorn ( ʍɪthorn 'HWIT-horn'; ''Taigh Mhàrtainn'' in Gaelic), is a royal burgh in the historic county of Wigtownshire in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland, about south of Wigtown. The town was the location of the first recorded Christia ...
for a week, riding first to Glasgow, while most of the household remained at Stirling Castle. On 4 August 1536 James V arrived by ship at Whithorn at night and rode to Stirling, recorded as "Ista nocte dominus rex rediit de navibus apud Candidam Casam et equitavit versus Stirling". On 1 March 1539 James was in Edinburgh, and attended the trial and burning of men accused of heresy following the performance of a Passion Play at Stirling, "Accusatio haereticorum et eorum combustio apud Edinburgh. Rege presente". The household books include provisions bought for hunting trips, wedding feasts (for the daughters of Regent Arran), banquets on the
Great Michael ''Michael'', popularly known as ''Great Michael'', was a carrack or great ship of the Royal Scottish Navy. She was the largest ship built by King James IV of Scotland James IV (17 March 1473 – 9 September 1513) was King of Scotland fr ...
, table linen, and soap for its laundry and the swaddling clothes of royal infants. As well as regular meals, sometimes the monarch had afternoon drinks, especially in the hunting field. Occasional expenses include ferry boats and transport. Ginger and pepper, and linen for the cook, were supplied to James V by Michael McQueen, who with his wife Janet Rynd founded the Magdalen Chapel in Edinburgh's
Cowgate The Cowgate ( Scots: The Cougait) is a street in Edinburgh, Scotland, located about southeast of Edinburgh Castle, within the city's World Heritage Site. The street is part of the lower level of Edinburgh's Old Town, which lies below the ele ...
. Meat included salted Orkney beef, mutton, calves' heads, and ox feet. Lamb's intestines bought for a feast at St Andrews to welcome Mary of Guise to Scotland were probably used to prepare a form of
haggis Haggis ( gd, taigeis) is a savoury pudding containing sheep's pluck (heart, liver, and lungs), minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt, mixed with stock, and cooked while traditionally encased in the animal's stomach though n ...
. A wide variety of fish and sea food was served including mackerel,
Loch Fyne Loch Fyne ( gd, Loch Fìne, ; meaning "Loch of the Vine/Wine"), is a sea loch off the Firth of Clyde and forms part of the coast of the Cowal peninsula. Located on the west coast of Argyll and Bute, Scotland. It extends inland from the Soun ...
herring, conger eel, dried whitings, whale and porpoise. Poultry and birds included moor hens,
dotterel The Eurasian dotterel (''Charadrius morinellus''), also known in Europe as just dotterel, is a small wader in the plover family of birds. The dotterel is a brown and black streaked bird with a broad white eye-stripe and an orange-red chest ban ...
, swans,
quail Quail is a collective name for several genera of mid-sized birds generally placed in the order Galliformes. The collective noun for a group of quail is a flock, covey, or bevy. Old World quail are placed in the family Phasianidae, and New ...
s and capercaillie. Rabbits were supplied from warrens at
Dunbar Dunbar () is a town on the North Sea coast in East Lothian in the south-east of Scotland, approximately east of Edinburgh and from the English border north of Berwick-upon-Tweed. Dunbar is a former royal burgh, and gave its name to an ecc ...
and baked baby rabbit was a delicacy. Friday was a fish day. The clerks noted several days in the year as feast days of saints. Claret, tavern ale, and imported German beer feature. James V was supplied by the ale wives of
North Berwick North Berwick (; gd, Bearaig a Tuath) is a seaside town and former royal burgh in East Lothian, Scotland. It is situated on the south shore of the Firth of Forth, approximately east-northeast of Edinburgh. North Berwick became a fashionable ...
on his visits to Tantallon Castle. When Regent Arran visited
Craignethan Castle Craignethan Castle is a ruined castle in South Lanarkshire, Scotland. It is located above the River Nethan, a tributary of the River Clyde, at . The castle is two miles west of the village of Crossford, and 4.5 miles north-west of Lanark. Built ...
with
Henri Cleutin Henri Cleutin, seigneur d'Oisel et de Villeparisis (1515 – 20 June 1566), was the representative of France in Scotland from 1546 to 1560, a Gentleman of the Chamber of the King of France, and a diplomat in Rome 1564-1566 during the French Wars o ...
wine and beer was supplied by taverns in
Lanark Lanark (; gd, Lannraig ; sco, Lanrik) is a town in South Lanarkshire, Scotland, located 20 kilometres to the south-east of Hamilton. The town lies on the River Clyde, at its confluence with Mouse Water. In 2016, the town had a population of 9 ...
. Food gifts are noted in the uncost section with rewards given to the servants of the donors. At Easter 1526, when he was 14, James V distributed ale and 14 loaves to poor people in Edinburgh. James V's cooks from 1525 were Hugh Johnston and Walter Gardener. In April 1533 Thomas Marschall was in charge of shopping during the king's visit to Perth, and was subsequently described as head cook. A few pages which head sections of the accounts have illustrations or doodles including a unicorn, a thistle and rose, Lucretia, and figure of a man with a tent or pavilion, with the motto "spes fove". The motto was also used by Robert Denniston or Danielstoun, rector of Dysart, whose brother William Danielstoun was keeper of Linlithgow Palace. When James V returned from France with
Madeleine of Valois Madeleine of France or Madeleine of Valois (10 August 1520 – 7 July 1537) was a French princess who briefly became Queen of Scotland in 1537 as the first wife of King James V. The marriage was arranged in accordance with the Treaty of Rouen ...
, he bought barrels of olive oil and
verjuice Verjuice ( ; from Middle French ''vertjus'' 'green juice') is a highly acidic juice made by pressing unripe grapes, crab-apples or other sour fruit. Sometimes lemon or sorrel juice, herbs or spices are added to change the flavour. In the Mi ...
, claret and white wine, and no less than 1762 pounds of salted lard, as a commitment to embrace French cuisine. In July 1537 Madeleine was ill at Holyrood, it was said by English spies that the king "doth keep so small an house that there is but only six messes of meat allowed in his house". A number of Scottish food words are borrowed from French, and examples from a list of loan words tabulated by the historian
William Tytler William Tytler WS FRSE (1711–1792) was a Scottish lawyer, known as a historical writer. He wrote ''An Inquiry into the Evidence against Mary Queen of Scots'', against the views of William Robertson. He discovered the manuscript the ''"Kingis Q ...
in 1790 are frequently cited. An account of the pursemaster of James V in 1539 in 1540 includes rewards given to servants who brought food gifts. Henry Wardlaw of Kilbaberton sent a boar and Lady Erskine sent him lampreys. When the king and Mary of Guise were at
Ravenscraig Castle Ravenscraig Castle is a ruined castle located in Kirkcaldy which dates from around 1460. The castle is an early example of artillery defence in Scotland. History The construction of Ravenscraig Castle by the mason Henry Merlion and the master ca ...
they ate pikes and eels from Loch Leven, and the
Earl of Huntly Marquess of Huntly (traditionally spelled Marquis in Scotland; Scottish Gaelic: ''Coileach Strath Bhalgaidh'') is a title in the Peerage of Scotland that was created on 17 April 1599 for George Gordon, 6th Earl of Huntly. It is the oldest existin ...
brought aqua vitae and venison to Falkland. James V also ate pike from the
Lake of Menteith Lake of Menteith, also known as Loch Inchmahome (Scottish Gaelic: ''Loch Innis Mo Cholmaig''), is a loch in Scotland located on the Carse of Stirling (the flood plain of the upper reaches of the rivers Forth and Teith, upstream from Stirling). ...
and
bream Bream ( ) are species of freshwater and marine fish belonging to a variety of genera including '' Abramis'' (e.g., ''A. brama'', the common bream), '' Acanthopagrus'', ''Argyrops'', '' Blicca'', '' Brama'', '' Chilotilapia'', ''Etelis'', '' L ...
from
Lochmaben Lochmaben ( Gaelic: ''Loch Mhabain'') is a small town and civil parish in Scotland, and site of a castle. It lies west of Lockerbie, in Dumfries and Galloway. By the 12th century the Bruce family had become the local landowners and, in the 14th ...
. James V's favourite,
Oliver Sinclair Sir Oliver Sinclair of Pitcairnis (died 1576?) was a favourite courtier of James V of Scotland. A contemporary story tells that James V gave him the battle standard and command at the Battle of Solway Moss. Another story tells how at the end of h ...
, brought 196 Dunbar rabbits for Christmas 1539. In March 1549 whales beached at or near
Cramond Island Cramond Island (Scottish Gaelic: ''Eilean Chathair Amain'') is one of several islands in the Firth of Forth in eastern Scotland, near Edinburgh. It lies off the foreshore at Cramond. It is long and covers .Wilson, Rev. John ''The Gazetteer o ...
were salted and packed in barrels. Regent Arran had four barrels sent to Seton Palace, (he was building a fort at
Luffness Luffness is a hamlet in East Lothian, Scotland. It lies between the towns of Gullane and Aberlady and is approximately 20 miles east of Edinburgh. History Most of the houses in Luffness are traditional farm cottages; among its notable buildings ...
). Some whale oil was bought for use at Edinburgh Castle. Beached whales were a valuable property, and in 1597
Andrew Balfour of Montquhanie Andrew Balfour of Montquhanie (died 1615) was a Scottish landowner. Career He was a son of Michael Balfour of Montquhanie and Mariota Adamson, a daughter of Patrick Adamson, Archbishop of St Andrews. Michael Balfour took some of jewels of Mary, Qu ...
feuded with the
Earl of Orkney Earl of Orkney, historically Jarl of Orkney, is a title of nobility encompassing the archipelagoes of Orkney and Shetland, which comprise the Northern Isles of Scotland. Originally founded by Norse invaders, the status of the rulers of the Nort ...
over rights of wreck at
Westray Westray (, sco, Westree) is one of the Orkney Islands in Scotland, with a usual resident population of just under 600 people. Its main village is Pierowall, with a heritage centre, the 15th-century Lady Kirk church and pedestrian ferry servi ...
. At the conclusion of the war known as the
Rough Wooing The Rough Wooing (December 1543 – March 1551), also known as the Eight Years' War, was part of the Anglo-Scottish Wars of the 16th century. Following its break with the Roman Catholic Church, England attacked Scotland, partly to break the ...
, on 21 May 1550, Regent Arran hosted a banquet in his Edinburgh lodging for Mary of Guise's brother, Claude, Marquis de Mayenne, who had been a hostage in England for the peace negotiations. The banqueting hall was decorated with the royal tapestry, benches and stools were upholstered with green cloth and purple velvet by John Frog, and a new outfit in black wool and velvet was bought for Elizabeth Murray, who served or performed at the feast.


Mary, Queen of Scots

A similar record exists for Mary of Guise and
Mary, Queen of Scots Mary, Queen of Scots (8 December 1542 – 8 February 1587), also known as Mary Stuart or Mary I of Scotland, was Queen of Scotland from 14 December 1542 until her forced abdication in 1567. The only surviving legitimate child of James V of S ...
, written in French, and known as the ''Despences de la Maison Royale''. This record has also been consulted for the royal itinerary. Typically, the manuscript shows that on Sunday 9 January 1540 Mary of Guise had dinner at
Burleigh Castle The remains of Burleigh Castle are located just outside the village of Milnathort, 1.5 miles north of Kinross, in Perth and Kinross, Scotland. The castle dates from the 15th and 16th centuries, and now sits beside the A911 road, opposite a 19th ...
and supper at Falkland Palace. Beef, mutton, goose, plovers and partridges were on the menu at dinner, and at Falkland, there was beef, mutton, pork, poultry and rabbit. The pastry cook made partridge pie, a pasty of pig's trotters ''à la sauce Madame'', and '' craquelin''. Dishes made for the common table were also listed, including plate-pasties. At this time, Mary of Guise paid for the food of her household from her own income rather than from her husband's revenues. A 'Bread book' from 1549, during the years before she became Regent, records allowances of bread for her courtiers and household. The Bread book mentions people called the "Morys", perhaps servants of African origin or the captured Spanish cavalrymen mentioned by Lady Home in her letter of 28 March 1549. Lady Home wrote to Mary of Guise "to be a good princess" to the "Moor" and the Spanish soldiers. The baker broke his arm in 1552. After the
Scottish Reformation The Scottish Reformation was the process by which Scotland broke with the Papacy and developed a predominantly Calvinist national Kirk (church), which was strongly Presbyterian in its outlook. It was part of the wider European Protestant Refor ...
, from 1561, some of the expenses of the household were met by "thirds of benefices" collected from
teind In Scotland a teind () was a tithe derived from the produce of the land for the maintenance of the clergy. It is also an old lowland term for a tribute due to be paid by the fairies to the devil every seven years. Found in the story of Tam Lin as ...
s. Much of the food produce collected in this manner was sold, and wine and cheese was bought with the proceeds, but some wheat was sent directly to Mary, Queen of Scot's bakers and oats were taken by the master of avery, who fed the queen's horses. John Huntar kept sheep and cattle in
Holyrood Park Holyrood Park (also called the Queen's Park or King's Park depending on the reigning monarch's gender) is a royal park in central Edinburgh, Scotland about to the east of Edinburgh Castle. It is open to the public. It has an array of hills, loc ...
to feed the household. When Mary visited Rossdhu and
Dumbarton Castle Dumbarton Castle ( gd, Dùn Breatainn, ; ) has the longest recorded history of any stronghold in Scotland. It sits on a volcanic plug of basalt known as Dumbarton Rock which is high and overlooks the Scottish town of Dumbarton. History Dum ...
in July 1563, fish was served on Saturday 17, including two salted salmon, two salted ling, 50 trout, and 36 plaice, cooked in 16 pounds of butter. The household book was checked and signed by her French former comptroller and master of household,
Bartholomew de Villemore Bartolomew de Villemore was a French courtier and administrator to Mary of Guise, the mother of Mary, Queen of Scots. Villemore was an official in the household of Mary, Queen of Scots in France. In February 1551 Mary of Guise directed Patrick Rut ...
. Her argentar and household "furnisher"
Alexander Durham Alexander Durham (died 1584) was a Scottish courtier and administrator. His appointments included, clerk in the Exchequer, administrator of John Stewart of Coldingham, and Master of the Wardrobe to King James VI. He was also known as "Sandy Durha ...
collected a contribution of £124-10s-8d in August 1564 from
Coupar Angus Abbey Coupar Angus Abbey was a Cistercian monastery near Coupar Angus, in central Scotland, on the boundary between Angus and Gowrie. It was founded on the old royal manor of Coupar in 1161 x 1162 with the patronage of Máel Coluim IV ("Malcolm IV" ...
towards the expenses of a hunting trip to Glen Tilt, where her father James V had been banquetted. The word "marmalade" does not derive from a combination of the words "Mary" and "malade", as is sometimes claimed, but from a Portuguese word for the quince. Mary certainly enjoyed a quince preserve called "cotignac" in France, as recorded in the accounts of the French royal children's household for 1551. Shortly before the birth of Prince James in June 1566, an associate of
Francis Yaxley Francis Yaxley (died 1565) was an English politician and conspirator. Life Yaxley was the eldest son of Richard Yaxley of Mellis, Suffolk, by his wife Anne, daughter of Roger Austin of Earlsham, Suffolk. The family were settled at Yaxley Hal ...
came from Flanders with a gift for her including "banqueting dishes of sugar and
marmalade Marmalade is a fruit preserve made from the juice and peel of citrus fruits boiled with sugar and water. The well-known version is made from bitter orange. It is also made from lemons, limes, grapefruits, mandarins, sweet oranges, bergamot ...
".


Mary in captivity

One of her cooks, Nicholas Boindreid, had a relationship with a woman called Bessy Brown in the Canongate. Estienne Hauet ''alias'' Stephen Hewat and his wife Elles Boug continued to cook for Mary when she was imprisoned at
Lochleven Castle Lochleven Castle is a ruined castle on an island in Loch Leven, in the Perth and Kinross local authority area of Scotland. Possibly built around 1300, the castle was the site of military action during the Wars of Scottish Independence (1296– ...
. The queen's food at Lochleven was "furnished" by James Dempsterton or Dempster, a servant of the Laird of Lochleven, while Walter Cockburn furnished the household of her infant son
Regent Moray James Stewart, 1st Earl of Moray (c. 1531 – 23 January 1570) was a member of the House of Stewart as the illegitimate son of King James V of Scotland. A supporter of his half-sister Mary, Queen of Scots, he was the regent of Scotland for hi ...
and James VI at Stirling Castle. Estienne and Martin Hauet rejoined Mary's household in England at
Tutbury Castle Tutbury Castle is a largely ruined medieval castle at Tutbury, Staffordshire, England, in the ownership of the Duchy of Lancaster and hence currently of King Charles III. It is a Scheduled Ancient Monument. People who have stayed in the castle ...
in February 1569. A detailed account of food supplied to Mary, Queen of Scots, at
Tutbury Castle Tutbury Castle is a largely ruined medieval castle at Tutbury, Staffordshire, England, in the ownership of the Duchy of Lancaster and hence currently of King Charles III. It is a Scheduled Ancient Monument. People who have stayed in the castle ...
and
Wingfield Manor Wingfield Manor is a ruined manor house left deserted since the 1770s, near the village of South Wingfield and some west of the town of Alfreton in the English county of Derbyshire. There is a working farm that forms part of the old manor. It is ...
in England, made by Brian Cave was acquired by the
British Library The British Library is the national library of the United Kingdom and is one of the largest libraries in the world. It is estimated to contain between 170 and 200 million items from many countries. As a legal deposit library, the British ...
in 2022. It includes "
Gascoigne Gascoigne (pronounced, and sometimes spelt, Gascoine or Gascoyne) is a British surname of Old French origin, the regional name of Gascony. The surname first appears on record in England in the early 13th century. ''Gascoigne'' or ''Gascoine'' m ...
wine", sack, and muscadell, a variety of meats, sea and freshwater fish, and poultry including heron and
dotterel The Eurasian dotterel (''Charadrius morinellus''), also known in Europe as just dotterel, is a small wader in the plover family of birds. The dotterel is a brown and black streaked bird with a broad white eye-stripe and an orange-red chest ban ...
. Spices include pepper, saffron and mace, with marmalade,
sucket Sucket was a kind of confectionary or dessert popular in early modern England. The word is related to succade, a kind of dried fruit. The dish was a sweetmeat involving sugar plums and dried fruit in thick syrup flavoured with ginger and other spic ...
, and comfits. The provisions are similar to diet enjoyed in Scotland. Some items were bought from the
Earl of Shrewsbury Earl of Shrewsbury () is a hereditary title of nobility created twice in the Peerage of England. The second earldom dates to 1442. The holder of the Earldom of Shrewsbury also holds the title of Earl of Waterford (1446) in the Peerage of Ireland ...
. "Turnboches" were hired to work in the kitchens turning spits. The fuels used were wood, charcoal, and sea coal. Laundry and table linen was included. The account survives in duplicate.


James VI and Anne of Denmark

Food allowances for the household of
James VI James is a common English language surname and given name: *James (name), the typically masculine first name James * James (surname), various people with the last name James James or James City may also refer to: People * King James (disambiguat ...
as an infant at Stirling Castle in 1568 were set out by
Regent Moray James Stewart, 1st Earl of Moray (c. 1531 – 23 January 1570) was a member of the House of Stewart as the illegitimate son of King James V of Scotland. A supporter of his half-sister Mary, Queen of Scots, he was the regent of Scotland for hi ...
.
Annabell Murray, Countess of Mar Annabell Murray, Countess of Mar (1536–1603), was a Scottish landowner, courtier and royal servant, the keeper of the infant James VI and his son Prince Henry at Stirling Castle Annabell Murray was a daughter of Sir William Murray of Tullibardi ...
and her servants were to have:
First, daily 14 great breads, 1 quart 1 pint wine, 1 gallon 2 quarts ale, 3 loads of coal weekly in winter, viz., from 1 September to 1 April, and in summer 1 1/2 loads, a half pound of candle in winter, and in summer a half of a quarter of a pound of candle.
To my Lady and her servants daily in the kitchen on a flesh (meat) day, 2 "particles" of beef, 2 boiled poultry, 2 roast capons, 3 quarters of mutton, a kid, a side of "sukand" veal, 6 chickens or doves, with baking meat to my Lady only, at the discretion of the Master Household, with pottages after their discretion, and on the fish days suchlike referred to the Steward and Master Household.
James VI wrote to his nobles and lairds for gifts of food, mostly meat and game, to serve on special occasions, often citing national honour as a reason for soliciting gifts. He wrote to Robert Murray of
Abercairny Abercairny is an estate in the Scottish region of Perth and Kinross. It had the distinction of a short visit by Queen Victoria 12 September 1842, when she wished to see the mansion house, then under construction. The estate, owned by the Moray f ...
for "venison, wild fowls, fed capons" for the wedding of
Henrietta Stewart Henrietta Stewart (1573–1642) was a Scottish courtier. She was the influential favourite of the queen of Scotland, Anne of Denmark. Life Henrietta Stewart was the daughter of Esmé Stewart, 1st Duke of Lennox, favourite of James VI of Scotla ...
and
George Gordon, 1st Marquess of Huntly George Gordon, 1st Marquess of Huntly (156213 June 1636) was a Scottish nobleman who took a leading role in the political and military life of Scotland in the late 16th century, and around the time of the Union of the Crowns. Biography The son o ...
in July 1588 at Holyrood. When he was still anticipating the arrival of his bride
Anne of Denmark Anne of Denmark (; 12 December 1574 – 2 March 1619) was the wife of King James VI and I; as such, she was Queen of Scotland from their marriage on 20 August 1589 and Queen of England and Ireland from the union of the Scottish and Eng ...
, on 30 August 1589 he wrote to ask the Laird of
Arbuthnott Arbuthnott ( gd, Obar Bhuadhnait, "mouth of the Buadhnat") is a village and parish in the Howe of the Mearns, a low-lying agricultural district of Aberdeenshire, Scotland. It is located on the B967, east of Fordoun (on the A90) and north-west ...
and Sir Patrick Vans of Barnbarroch to provide "fat beef, mutton on foot, wild fowls and venison, to be delivered to Walter Naish, Master of the Royal Larder". When James VI sailed to Norway to meet Anne of Denmark in October 1589, his ship was provisioned with 15,000 biscuit bakes costing £300 Scots. There was beef, mutton, salted goose and goose for baking, rabbits and
capon A capon (from la, cāpō, genitive ''cāpōnis'') is a cockerel ( rooster) that has been castrated or neutered, either physically or chemically, to improve the quality of its flesh for food, and, in some countries like Spain, fattened by for ...
s for baking, 200 dried cod fish, 200 ling, and 200 skate, two barrels of salmon, 24 stones of cheese, 3 stones of sugar and 12 pounds of confectionary, ginger, pepper, apples, onions, vinegar, 20 great hams, kale and carrots, 180 live capons and oats to feed them, sack and Madeira wine. On 19 February 1590, James VI wrote from
Kronborg Kronborg is a castle and stronghold in the town of Helsingør, Denmark. Immortalized as Elsinore in William Shakespeare's play ''Hamlet'', Kronborg is one of the most important Renaissance castles in Northern Europe and was inscribed on the UNE ...
to his Privy Council, urging them to forward preparation for his return, for his "comming hame, God willing, draws neire ... a King of Scotland with a newe married Wife will not come hame every daye ... respect not onely my Honor in this, but the Honor of our wholle Nation ... and specially since I have seen so gude an example in this Countrie ... Faile not to provide gude Cheare for us, for we have heir aboundance of gude Meit and part of Drink". At Stirling Castle from February 1594 eight aristocratic women or "dames of honour" attending
Prince Henry Prince Henry (or Prince Harry) may refer to: People *Henry the Young King (1155–1183), son of Henry II of England, who was crowned king but predeceased his father *Prince Henry the Navigator of Portugal (1394–1460) *Henry, Duke of Cornwall (Ja ...
, including Annabell Murray, Countess of Mar,
Marie Stewart, Countess of Mar Marie Stewart, Countess of Mar (1576-1644) was a Scottish courtier. She was the daughter of Esmé Stewart, 1st Duke of Lennox, a favourite of James VI of Scotland, and Catherine de Balsac. After her marriage, as was customary in Scotland, she di ...
, Lady Abercairny, and Lady Dudhope, were granted a daily allowance for dinner on meat and fish days, including:
On the flesh day to the first service, a piece of beef, two pieces of sodden mutton, a boiled fowl, with six dishes of pottage. Their second service, 12 dishes of roast, at the Master Household's discretion.
The fish day, 12 dishes to the first service viz., plumdames (prunes), rice, butter, eggs, fried toasties, milk and bread, speckit peas, oysters, green kale, and failing of any sort to be supplied with another. The second service, 8 dishes as the season yields, and to their desserts, eggs, raisins, confectionary, and apples, 8 dishes.
As was usual, the servers of the dames' table, and other servants, were fed on the left overs. There was another table for the Mistress Nurse and the women who rocked the cradle, and another for physicians and apothecary, and for the midwife and two others. For the feast at the baptism of Prince Henry at Stirling Castle in August 1594, James VI sent letters to several lairds and landowners, asking them to send "quick stuff" for the feast, live animals, especially deer and wild fowl, such as they "may have in readiness and spare". The banquet included a course of desserts fashioned in the shape of fish by a Flemish sugar confectioner Jacques de Bousie served in the Great Hall from a model ship with working cannon. The sugar fish were presented in glasses supplied by the court sommelier
Jerome Bowie Jerome Bowie (died 1597) was a servant of James VI of Scotland as a sommelier, in charge of the purchase and serving of wine. Family backgound Jerome Bowie's family was from Stirling. His father is thought to have been Andrew Bowie, a gunner emp ...
. The poet William Fowler described the scene, explaining that the sugar-laden ship represented the king and queen's good fortune in their voyage across the
North Sea The North Sea lies between Great Britain, Norway, Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium. An epeiric sea, epeiric sea on the European continental shelf, it connects to the Atlantic Ocean through the English Channel in the south and the ...
and her safe delivery from the " conspiracy of witches", and so Neptune:
did bring such things as the Sea affords, to decore this festival time withal: which immediatly were delivered to the Sewers (servers), forth of the galleries of this ship, out of christalline glasse, very curiously painted with gold & azure, all sorts of fishes: as herrings, whitings, flooks (flounder), oysters, buckles (shell fish), limpets, partans (crab), lapstars (lobsters), crabs, spout-fish, clams: with other infinite things made of sugar, and most truely represented in their own shape. And whilst the ship was unloading: Arion sitting upon the galley nose, which resembled the form of a dolphin fish, played upon his harp.
In March 1595 James VI solicited a gift of beer brewed in England from
Sir Robert Cecil Robert Cecil, 1st Earl of Salisbury, (1 June 156324 May 1612), was an English statesman noted for his direction of the government during the Union of the Crowns, as Tudor England gave way to Stuart rule (1603). Lord Salisbury served as the ...
and
Elizabeth I Elizabeth I (7 September 153324 March 1603) was List of English monarchs, Queen of England and List of Irish monarchs, Ireland from 17 November 1558 until her death in 1603. Elizabeth was the last of the five House of Tudor monarchs and is ...
for the cellars of Stirling Castle and Holyroodhouse. In later years, in March, English beer for James and Anne of Denmark was brewed by Robert Sky and sent to Scotland. For the baptism of Princess Elizabeth on 28 November 1596, James VI sent invitations and requests for "wild meat and venison" to the Earl of Rothes, Lord Lindsay and Gray, the Constable of Dundee, and the lairds of Balwearie,
Easter Wemyss East Wemyss () is a village situated on the south coast of Fife, Scotland. According to the 2011 census, the village has a population of 1,928. History East Wemyss was traditionally one of several coal mining communities along the south coast ...
, Wester Wemyss, Torrie, and Bonnyton. Fragments of household books remain for James VI and Anne of Denmark covering most of 1598. These were long preserved by the family of the comptroller, George Home of Wedderburn. They are written in the
Scots Language Scots ( endonym: ''Scots''; gd, Albais, ) is an Anglic language variety in the West Germanic language family, spoken in Scotland and parts of Ulster in the north of Ireland (where the local dialect is known as Ulster Scots). Most commonl ...
, (as is a book from 1512 covering the food of the household of James V as a baby at Linlithgow Palace), and detail the wedding feast of Anne of Denmark's preacher John Sering and Little Anna, and the visit of Ulrik, Duke of Holstein. The queen's accounts were sometimes countersigned by the master of work,
William Schaw William Schaw (c. 1550–1602) was Master of Works to James VI of Scotland for building castles and palaces, and is claimed to have been an important figure in the development of Freemasonry in Scotland. Biography William Schaw was the second ...
. Anne of Denmark had Danish kitchen staff including a cook called Marion who was a bedchamber servant. James VI was supplied with
shortbread Shortbread or shortie is a traditional Scottish biscuit usually made from one part white sugar, two parts butter, and three to four parts plain wheat flour. Unlike many other biscuits and baked goods, shortbread does not contain any leavening, ...
and oatcakes by Christian Lindsay, who is also thought to have been a poet.


Royal banquets in Edinburgh


Banquet in April 1596

The town of Edinburgh hosted banquets for James VI and Anne of Denmark at public expense, to mark special occasions and to maintain royal favour. In April 1597 it was decided to banquet James at the Minister's lodgings, housing provided for kirk ministers which was in a state of disrepair. Tapestry from Holyrood Palace was used to decorate the venue. The town accounts record a sugar banquet held in the council house in March 1596 costing £30, and a supper in April with a courses of meat of poultry, sugar work costing £23, and patisserie or pastry by Mungo Ross costing £13-10s. Two large platters, probably made of pewter, were borrowed from one Hew Broun were lost and he was given £3-16s-8d compensation.


Banquet for the Duke of Holstein

The town hosted a banquet for the Duke of Holstein at the house of Ninian MacMorran at Riddle's court on 2 May 1598. The queen's cook
Hans Poppilman Hans Poppilman (born 1574) was a Danish cook who served Anne of Denmark in Scotland and England. Career He came to Scotland with Anne of Denmark, bride of James VI of Scotland, James VI, in May 1590. He was then aged around 16, working for Hans Dri ...
was employed and tableware and tapestries were borrowed from Holyrood Palace. Wine was sweetened and spiced to make
hippocras Hippocras ( ca, Pimentes de clareya; lat, vīnum Hippocraticum), sometimes spelled hipocras or hypocras, is a drink made from wine mixed with sugar and spices, usually including cinnamon, and possibly heated. After steeping the spices in the ...
by two apothecaries, John Lawtie and
John Clavie John Clavie or Clavee (died 1607) was a Scottish apothecary who worked for James VI and I and the royal family. Background Clavie was based in Edinburgh and moved with the court to London on the Union of the Crowns. He was probably related to "Jho ...
.
Alexander Barclay Dr Alexander Barclay (c. 1476 – 10 June 1552) was a poet and clergyman of the Church of England, probably born in Scotland. Biography Barclay was born in about 1476. His place of birth is matter of dispute, but William Bulleyn, who w ...
, an apothecary who frequently worked for the court, made a
mutchkin ''Disambiguation: a "mutchkin" can also refer a close-fitting Scottish cap''. The mutchkin ( gd, mùisgein) was a Scottish unit of liquid volume measurement that was in use from at least 1661 (and possibly as early as the 15th century) until the ...
of perfumed rose water. On 22 May 1598 James VI drank all night with the Duke of Holstein. On 19 June, his birthday, James VI had supper at
Crichton Castle Crichton Castle is a ruined castle near the village of Crichton in Midlothian, Scotland. It is situated at the head of the River Tyne, south of the village of Pathhead, and the same distance east of Gorebridge. Constructed as a tower house in ...
after a day's sport of hawking. The baptism of Prince Charles was held in December 1600 at
Holyrood House The Palace of Holyroodhouse ( or ), commonly referred to as Holyrood Palace or Holyroodhouse, is the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. Located at the bottom of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, at the opposite end to Edi ...
. This time James VI sent an invitation and request to
Walter Dundas Walter Dundas (died 1636) was a Scottish landowner and courtier. He was the eldest son of George Dundas of Dundas and Margaret Boswell, a sister of John Boswell of Balmuto. Walter Dundas was Laird of Over Newliston, and he later inherited Dundas ...
of Dundas for venison, wild meat, "brissel foulis", and capons. This would be his contribution or "propyne" to "great provision and cheer".


Banquet in Edinburgh, 1617

James VI returned to Scotland in 1617 for a visit, leaving Anne of Denmark in London. There were elaborate preparations. Silver and damask table cloths and napkins were sent ahead, in several qualities according to the status of the diners. The Privy Council asked the depute-treasurer
Gideon Murray Gideon Murray of Elibank (died 1621), Scottish courtier and landowner. Family Gideon Murray was the third son of Sir Andrew Murray of Black Barony, Peebleshire, and Grisel Beaton, a daughter of Sir John Beaton of Creich, Fife. Regent Arran paid ...
to make plans to finance feeding the royal party, and the provision of "wheat, beir, oats, wine, spices, beef, mutton, and other provisions" to the royal houses. He devised a special tax. Country lairds were asked to send produce, John Grant of Freuchie was asked to provide capercailzies and
ptarmigan ''Lagopus'' is a small genus of birds in the grouse subfamily commonly known as ptarmigans (). The genus contains three living species with numerous described subspecies, all living in tundra or cold upland areas. Taxonomy and etymology The ge ...
, for delivery to King James at Newcastle. Edinburgh town hosted a banquet for King James, in a specially built banqueting house in the Council House Yard. An account for the banquet also survives. The king's fool or "pleasant"
Archibald Armstrong Archibald Armstrong (died March 1672), court jester, called "Archy", was a native of Cumberland, and according to tradition first distinguished himself as a sheep thief; afterwards he entered the service of James VI, with whom he became a favourit ...
was paid £66. There was French and Rhenish wine, sack, ale and beer. An Italian expert laid the table linen. 500 oranges were used to make a dessert with some strawberries and cream. The main courses were of venison and poultry. After the feast the visiting courtiers or "strangers danced through the town". With two other small intimate banquets hosted by Joseph Marjoribanks, the costs of the entertainment was nearly six times greater than the banquet at Riddles Court in 1598. Marjoribanks' country house at
Prestonpans Prestonpans ( gd, Baile an t-Sagairt, Scots language, Scots: ''The Pans'') is a small mining town, situated approximately eight miles east of Edinburgh, Scotland, in the Council area of East Lothian. The population as of is. It is near the si ...
,
Northfield Northfield may refer to: Places United Kingdom * Northfield, Aberdeen, Scotland * Northfield, Edinburgh, Scotland * Northfield, Birmingham, England * Northfield (Kettering BC Ward), Northamptonshire, England United States * Northfield, Connec ...
, still survives.


Charles II and his Scottish coronation

When Charles II was in Scotland in 1650, spices were bought in December for Christmastime from Andrew Reid, a merchant in Perth, including especially "scrotckets and confects", sugar treats. A 'scorchet' was a sugar sweet flavoured with rose water, known to have been served at Scottish celebrations and banquets since the 15th century. Charles was crowned at Scone in January 1651, and although the ceremony was comparatively modest, there was a significant expenditure on the banquet and table linen.


Academic research

The household records supply several historic dates. The death of James V on 14 December 1542 was noted as "Hodie dominus noster illustrissimus rex apud Falkland clausus est extremus". The death of Mary of Guise on 11 June 1560 as, "Mardy unziesme jour de Juing la royne trespassa dedans le charteau d'Edinburg à l'heure de une heure apres mynuict". This official time of death of the queen dowager appears in two contemporary notices of her death like a court circular. Early historians and chronicle writers may have accessed the household books, which seem to have been kept in this form since 1453. A family history, the ''Memory of the Somervilles'', describes a wedding "infare" at
Cowthally Castle Cowthally Castle, also known as Couthalley, is a ruined L-plan castle near Carnwath, Lanarkshire, Scotland. The remains are protected as a scheduled monument. The castle appears to have been constructed in the 12th century, and was re-built in ...
and, a few weeks later, the wedding at
Craignethan Castle Craignethan Castle is a ruined castle in South Lanarkshire, Scotland. It is located above the River Nethan, a tributary of the River Clyde, at . The castle is two miles west of the village of Crossford, and 4.5 miles north-west of Lanark. Built ...
attended by James V. The author,
James Somerville Admiral of the Fleet Sir James Fownes Somerville, (17 July 1882 – 19 March 1949) was a Royal Navy officer. He served in the First World War as fleet wireless officer for the Mediterranean Fleet where he was involved in providing naval suppo ...
cited family household accounts, (now lost). However, the attendance of the king at these two events does not appear in the royal household books, casting doubt on the narrative and suggesting that the king did not visit Craignethan until July 1541, after the execution of his former favourite, James Hamilton of Finnart. James Somerville also claimed that James IV attended a wedding infare at Cowthally in September 1489 or 1490, and describes the meat, fish, and poultry provided. Again, this visit does not seem to fit the royal records. A 17th-century family history of the
Lords Lovat Lords may refer to: * The plural of Lord Places * Lords Creek, a stream in New Hanover County, North Carolina *Lord's, English Cricket Ground and home of Marylebone Cricket Club and Middlesex County Cricket Club People *Traci Lords (born 1 ...
makes similar reference to now lost family household books and lavish hospitality, and was written by James Fraser of Phopachy, a grandson of
Simon Fraser, 6th Lord Lovat Simon Fraser, 6th Lord Lovat (1570–1633) was a Scottish courtier and landowner. Simon Fraser was the son of Hugh Fraser, 5th Lord Lovat and Elizabeth Stewart daughter of John Stewart, 4th Earl of Atholl. He was born on 13 April 1570. Biog ...
's master household who kept the accounts. These stories, and Pitscottie's description of the Atholl banquet, demonstrate that the provision of food in quantity was a significant element of courtly and aristocratic display, to be incorporated in the storytelling and recollections of later generations. William Bourne, a zoologist, researched and identified some of the birds mentioned in the household books of James V, (using the extract published in 1836). The historian Amy Blakeway has abstracted data from the royal household books to illustrate the 16th-century inflationary price rise in Scotland. Blakeway has also compared costs to test the contemporary assertion of the comptroller David Wood of Craig that Regent Arran spent more on his household in 1543 than James V, that he "haldis ane greit hous and is at mair (more) sumpteous expense nor (than) umquhile (the late) our said soverane lord held in his time". While 1543 may have been expensive for Arran, costs in later years were lower.


Masters of the Royal Household

The Master of Household was responsible for the budget and buying food. Margaret Tudor's household was also served by an admimistrator called the "Great Purveyor". This office was held by Duncan Forestar of Skipinch in 1508. David Beaton and Harry Lindsay were masters of household for Anne of Denmark. They complained in 1591 about missing allowances for the meals of ladies in waiting and other courtiers, including Marie Stewart, who deserved a "disjeune" or breakfast because she was a "tender bairn". At this time various suggestions were made to reduce the expenditure of both households on food. James Hudson reported that the king's table and the queen's "had like to have been unserved for want, the queen her house and trayne are more costlie to him than his own". After calculating and extrapolating the costs of food, the Master Households were advised that no more than £900 should be spent yearly on spices for the queen bought from Andrew Quhyte, and no more than £1500 on sugar, comfits, almonds, oil, and lard supplied by Robert Robesoun. Servants and artisans who joined the royal households were given allowances of food according to their rank. Rolls of the royal household usually include these allowances, often organised in tables of servants who ate together, like Anne of Denmark's Danish servants. In November 1602 the embroiderer Thomas Barclay joined her household at
Dunfermline Palace Dunfermline Palace is a ruined former Scottish royal palace and important tourist attraction in Dunfermline, Fife, Scotland. It is currently, along with other buildings of the adjacent Dunfermline Abbey, under the care of Historic Environment ...
and she wrote to her Master of Household,
Patrick Hume of Polwarth Sir Patrick Hume of Polwarth and Redbraes (c.1550– June 1609) was a Scottish courtier and makar (court poet). Family background He was the eldest son of Sir Patrick Hume of Polwarth & Redbrayes (d. May 1599) and his spouse Agnes, daughter of ...
, asking him to give Barclay meat, bread, ale, candle and coal. The allowance was called an "ordinar". Office holders included: *
James Anstruther Sir James Anstruther of Anstruther (died 1606), was a Scottish landowner and courtier. He was a son of John Anstruther and Margaret Clephane, daughter of George Clephane of Carslogie. His second wife was Margaret Learmonth, daughter of James Lea ...
* Gilbert Balfour of
Westray Westray (, sco, Westree) is one of the Orkney Islands in Scotland, with a usual resident population of just under 600 people. Its main village is Pierowall, with a heritage centre, the 15th-century Lady Kirk church and pedestrian ferry servi ...
. *
David Beaton of Melgund David Beaton of Melgund (died 1598) was a Scottish courtier and landowner. David Beaton was the son of Cardinal David Beaton and Marion Ogilvy. He inherited Melgund Castle. In June 1562 Mary Queen of Scots requested a "safe conduct", a kind of ...
*
Robert Beaton of Creich Robert Beaton of Creich (died 1567) was a Scottish landowner and courtier. He served as a Master of Household to Mary, Queen of Scots. Robert Beaton was a son of John Beaton of Creich, keeper of Falkland Palace and Janet Hay. He went to France wi ...
* Francisco de Busso.
Gordon Donaldson Gordon Donaldson, (13 April 1913 – 16 March 1993) was a Scottish historian. Life He was born in a tenement at 140 McDonald RoadEdinburgh and Leith Post Office Directory, 1912 off Leith Walk in northern Edinburgh on 13 April 1913 the so ...
, ''Accounts of the Collectors of Thirds of Benefices, 1561-1572'' (Edinburgh: Scottish History Society, 1949), p. 102.
*
Alan Cathcart, 4th Lord Cathcart Alan Cathcart, 4th Lord Cathcart (1537–1618) was a Scottish aristocrat. Life He sold Cathcart Castle to Gabriel Sempill of Ladymure in 1546, and was killed at the Battle of Pinkie in 1547. Other family lands at Cathcart were inherited by his so ...
* John Campbell of Lundy * Mungo Graham of Rathernis, (died 1589) *
Matthew Hamilton of Milnburn Matthew Hamilton of Milnburn and Binning (died 1569) was a Scottish landowner and courtier. Early life He was a son of Matthew Hamilton ''in'' Milnburn or Mylnburn or Milburne in Dalserf. The Mill Burn flows into the River Clyde north of the vil ...
*
Patrick Hepburn, 1st Earl of Bothwell Patrick Hepburn, 1st Earl of Bothwell (died 18 October 1508) was Lord High Admiral of Scotland. He rose to political prominence after supporting James IV against his father, and was proxy at the King's marriage. Career Patrick was the son of Adam ...
*
Patrick Hume of Polwarth Sir Patrick Hume of Polwarth and Redbraes (c.1550– June 1609) was a Scottish courtier and makar (court poet). Family background He was the eldest son of Sir Patrick Hume of Polwarth & Redbrayes (d. May 1599) and his spouse Agnes, daughter of ...
* Harry Lindsay of Carrestoun *
Patrick Lyon, 1st Lord Glamis Patrick Lyon, 1st Lord Glamis (140221 March 1459) P.C. was a Scottish nobleman, created Lord Glamis on 28 June 1445. He was a son of Sir John Lyon of Glamis () and Elizabeth Graham, daughter of Sir Patrick Graham of Dundaff and Kincardine and E ...
* Andrew Melville of Garvock *
Robert Sempill, 3rd Lord Sempill Robert Sempill, 3rd Lord Sempill (c. 1505–1576) was a Scottish lord of Parliament. Robert, also ''Semphill'' or ''Semple'', 3rd Lord Sempill (d. circa 1575), commonly called the 'Great Lord Sempill', was the elder son of William Sempill, 2nd L ...
*
Bartholomew de Villemore Bartolomew de Villemore was a French courtier and administrator to Mary of Guise, the mother of Mary, Queen of Scots. Villemore was an official in the household of Mary, Queen of Scots in France. In February 1551 Mary of Guise directed Patrick Rut ...


References


External links


A Stirling Feast: Short film about renaissance food and the kitchen at Stirling Castle: Historic Environment Scotland

Itemised account book from the royal household 1534-1535: National Records of Scotland
{{Webarchive, url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210728122422/https://www.nrscotland.gov.uk/research/image-gallery/doors-open-day/itemised-account-book-from-the-royal-household-15341535 , date=2021-07-28
The Court Doodler: National Records of Scotland


* ttp://www.kingjames1ofscotland.co.uk/publications/sugar-and-spice-and-all-things-nice/ Richard Oram, Sugar and Spice and All Things Nice: Food for James I from the Exchequer Rolls
Richard Oram, Feasting with James I – Linlithgow Palace's Great Hall
Scottish royal court History of Scottish cuisine Scottish monarchy 16th century in Scotland 16th-century documents Renaissance in Scotland Early Modern Scotland Material culture of royal courts Medieval cuisine