Forests Of Portugal
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The woodlands of the Iberian Peninsula are distinct ecosystems on the Iberian Peninsula (which includes Spain, Portugal, Andorra,
Gibraltar ) , anthem = " God Save the King" , song = " Gibraltar Anthem" , image_map = Gibraltar location in Europe.svg , map_alt = Location of Gibraltar in Europe , map_caption = United Kingdom shown in pale green , mapsize = , image_map2 = Gib ...
and southern parts of France). Although the various regions are each characterized by distinct vegetation, the borders between these regions are not clearly defined, and there are some similarities across the peninsula.


Origin and characteristics

It is now known that the Mediterranean Sea went through great changes in sea level and variations in the relative positions of the
continental plates Plate tectonics (from the la, label=Late Latin, tectonicus, from the grc, τεκτονικός, lit=pertaining to building) is the generally accepted scientific theory that considers the Earth's lithosphere to comprise a number of large ...
of Europe and Africa. These brought changes in climate and vegetation. The Iberian Peninsula, located on an important route between Africa and Europe, was enriched by the arrival, following the climate change, of wetland plants, thermophilic plants (those that require a great deal of heat), xerophilic plants (those that require a dry climate), orophilic (sub-alpine) plants, Boreo-alpine plants, and so on, many of which managed to remain, thanks to the diversity of environments that exist in the mountain ranges, and which allowed them to rise in elevation if the climate was too warm, or descend if it became too cold. The geological complexity of the majority of Iberian mountains, especially of the
Cordillera Bética The Baetic System or Betic System ( es, Sistema Bético) is one of the main systems of mountain ranges in Spain. Located in the southern and eastern Iberian Peninsula, it is also known as the Cordilleras Béticas (Baetic Mountain Ranges) or Baet ...
, Sistema Ibérico, and Pyrenees, also greatly increased the number of new environments to which it was possible to adapt, resulting in today's wide variety of flora.


The Eurosiberian region

The "Eurosiberian" Atlantic zone extends through northern Portugal, the
Galician Massif The Galician Massif ( es, Macizo Galaico, also known as ''Macizo Galaico-Leonés'') is a system of mountain ranges in the northwestern corner of the Iberian Peninsula. It is located in Galicia with its southeastern end reaching into the provinces ...
, Cantabrian Mountains and the western and central Pyrenees. It is characterized by a humid climate which is moderated by the influence of the ocean, with somewhat cold winters and the lack of a distinct dry season. The mainland extends to the north of Portugal, the greater part of
Galicia Galicia may refer to: Geographic regions * Galicia (Spain), a region and autonomous community of northwestern Spain ** Gallaecia, a Roman province ** The post-Roman Kingdom of the Suebi, also called the Kingdom of Gallaecia ** The medieval King ...
, Asturias, Cantabria, the
Basque Country Basque Country may refer to: * Basque Country (autonomous community), as used in Spain ( es, País Vasco, link=no), also called , an Autonomous communities of Spain, autonomous community of Spain (shown in pink on the map) * French Basque Country o ...
, northwest of
Navarre Navarre (; es, Navarra ; eu, Nafarroa ), officially the Chartered Community of Navarre ( es, Comunidad Foral de Navarra, links=no ; eu, Nafarroako Foru Komunitatea, links=no ), is a foral autonomous community and province in northern Spain, ...
, and western Pyrenees. However, its influence in the form of communities or defined species extends inwards, especially in the north and west. The vegetation is deciduous oak forest: both sessile oaks ('' Quercus petraea'')CSIC List of Iberian flora ''Quercus sp.''
and pedunculate oaks ('' Quercus robur''), with European ash ('' Fraxinus excelsior'') and
hazel The hazel (''Corylus'') is a genus of deciduous trees and large shrubs native to the temperate Northern Hemisphere. The genus is usually placed in the birch family Betulaceae,Germplasmgobills Information Network''Corylus''Rushforth, K. (1999). ...
s in the coolest and deepest soil at the bottom of the valley. The mountain layer is characterised by the presence of beeches and at times, in the Pyrenees, by silver firs ('' Abies alba''); these beeches and silver firs occupy the cool slopes with shallow soil. The Mediterranean influence is felt in the presence of Holm oaks (''
Quercus rotundifolia ''Quercus rotundifolia'', the holm oak or ballota oak, is an evergreen oak native to the western Mediterranean region, with the majority on the Iberian Peninsula and minor populations in Northwest Africa. The species was first described by Jean- ...
'') with bay laurel, which are situated on the warmest crests and slopes, especially above chalky soil, where the dryness becomes more pronounced. Improvement by humans has transformed much of this woodland into meadows, which conserve at their edges remnant hedgerows, "setos", of the species of the primitive forest. Clumps of thorny shrubs grow also in glades and clearings, such as the wild rose, blackberry bushes, blackthorn,
hawthorn Hawthorn or Hawthorns may refer to: Plants * '' Crataegus'' (hawthorn), a large genus of shrubs and trees in the family Rosaceae * ''Rhaphiolepis'' (hawthorn), a genus of about 15 species of evergreen shrubs and small trees in the family Rosace ...
and other more or less thorny
shrub A shrub (often also called a bush) is a small-to-medium-sized perennial woody plant. Unlike herbaceous plants, shrubs have persistent woody stems above the ground. Shrubs can be either deciduous or evergreen. They are distinguished from trees ...
s; this role can also be filled by smaller thorny plants, ''los piornales'', and clumps of broom. The major forests in this area are beech, oak, birch, and fir.


Beech forests

Beech Beech (''Fagus'') is a genus of deciduous trees in the family Fagaceae, native to temperate Europe, Asia, and North America. Recent classifications recognize 10 to 13 species in two distinct subgenera, ''Engleriana'' and ''Fagus''. The ''Engle ...
forests ('' Fagus sylvatica'') are found in the mountain layer of the Iberian Eurosiberian region from 800 to 1500 metres up. The soil is cool, as often chalky as siliceous (rich in silica), and nearly always acidified by rain. The layer is characterised by the beech tree. The beech tree projects a deep shadow, and so its dense foliage usually excludes other woodland species. It therefore has little undergrowth. In spite of their Atlantic character, these forests reach Moncayo, in the centre of the peninsula. The southernmost are at the Hayedo de Montejo (in the autonomous community of Madrid) and in the northernmost area of the province of
Guadalajara Guadalajara ( , ) is a metropolis in western Mexico and the capital of the list of states of Mexico, state of Jalisco. According to the 2020 census, the city has a population of 1,385,629 people, making it the 7th largest city by population in Me ...
, in the Parque Natural del Hayedo de Tejera Negra (Cantalojas), and Somosierra-Ayllón. The forests seek watercourses and shade, and so their reforestation is very difficult and they are being displaced by the
Pyrenean Oak ''Quercus pyrenaica'', commonly known as Pyrenean oak, is a tree native to southwestern Europe and northwestern North Africa. Despite its common name, it is rarely found in the Pyrenees Mountains and is more abundant in northern Portugal and nort ...
(''
Quercus pyrenaica ''Quercus pyrenaica'', commonly known as Pyrenean oak, is a tree native to southwestern Europe and northwestern North Africa. Despite its common name, it is rarely found in the Pyrenees Mountains and is more abundant in northern Portugal and nort ...
''). The Irati "rainforest", of some 170 square kilometres in the Navarran Pyrenees, is one of the most important beech and fir forests in Europe.


Oak forests

Oak forests, above all of pedunculate oak ('' Quercus robur''), are the most common in the Atlantic zone. They represent the typical forest floor formation of basal trees, extending to an elevation of some 600 metres. In higher regions, as one ascends the mountains, they yield to beech forests; at the bottom of the valleys they are replaced by ash trees and
hazel The hazel (''Corylus'') is a genus of deciduous trees and large shrubs native to the temperate Northern Hemisphere. The genus is usually placed in the birch family Betulaceae,Germplasmgobills Information Network''Corylus''Rushforth, K. (1999). ...
tree groves. There are two main types of oak: the pedunculate oak and the sessile oak ('' Quercus petraea''). The latter extends furthest into the interior and highest in elevation, but plays a secondary part; in general, when the climate begins to show its continental character, these oak forests are replaced by Pyrenean oak. The land on which these oaks stood is the most altered, as it is well suited to meadows and crops. Oaks are often accompanied by
chestnut The chestnuts are the deciduous trees and shrubs in the genus ''Castanea'', in the beech family Fagaceae. They are native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere. The name also refers to the edible nuts they produce. The unrelat ...
trees and birches. When these forests degrade, they are taken over by thorny plants, ''piornales,'' and in the final extreme heather and gorse. The pedunculate oak would have been indigenous to a large part of the area currently occupied by pine forests and eucalyptus.


Birch forests

Along the Atlantic coast, birches ('' Betula'' species) form small enclaves or copses at the foot of rocky cliff edges or in the clearings of beech forests, on poor or acidic soils, accompanied by aspen ('' Populus tremula'') and mountain ash (''
Sorbus aucuparia ''Sorbus aucuparia'', commonly called rowan (UK: /ˈrəʊən/, US: /ˈroʊən/) and mountain-ash, is a species of deciduous tree or shrub in the rose family. It is a highly variable species, and botanists have used different Circumscription (taxo ...
''). Birch may also grow in pure stands near the beech forests, in the mountainous areas on siliceous bedrock; these areas are typically of only small extent and generally quite patchy with sessile oak (''Quercus petraea'') and trees of the genus '' Sorbus''.


Fir forests

The silver fir ('' Abies alba'') is found on the cool, deep-soiled slopes of the flanks of the Pyrenees, from
Navarre Navarre (; es, Navarra ; eu, Nafarroa ), officially the Chartered Community of Navarre ( es, Comunidad Foral de Navarra, links=no ; eu, Nafarroako Foru Komunitatea, links=no ), is a foral autonomous community and province in northern Spain, ...
to Montseny, forming pure fir woods or, more often, mixed forests with beech trees. The most important areas are in
Lleida Lleida (, ; Spanish: Lérida ) is a city in the west of Catalonia, Spain. It is the capital city of the province of Lleida. Geographically, it is located in the Catalan Central Depression. It is also the capital city of the Segrià comarca, as ...
(Lérida), with 170 square kilometres. It extends from 700 to 1700 meters elevation, but its main areas are localized in more humid and dark valleys; these forests are dark, with acidic soil, due to the decomposition of the needles of evergreens. At higher elevations they are often replaced by black pine (''
Pinus uncinata ''Pinus mugo'', known as bog pine, creeping pine, dwarf mountain pine, mugo pine, mountain pine, scrub mountain pine, or Swiss mountain pine, is a species of conifer, native to high elevation habitats from southwestern to Central Europe and Sou ...
''). These fir forests sometimes contain maples (''
Acer pseudoplatanus ''Acer pseudoplatanus'', known as the sycamore in the British Isles and as the sycamore maple in the United States, is a species of flowering plant in the Sapindus, soapberry and lychee family Sapindaceae. It is a large deciduous, broad-leaved ...
'')Flora digital de Portugal ''Acer pseudoplatanus''
and their undergrowth is very similar to that of the beech forest. Like these, they are distinctly Euro-Iberian.


The Mediterranean region

The Mediterranean region occupies the rest of the peninsula (the greater part of it), as well as the
Balearic Islands The Balearic Islands ( es, Islas Baleares ; or ca, Illes Balears ) are an archipelago in the Balearic Sea, near the eastern coast of the Iberian Peninsula. The archipelago is an autonomous community and a province of Spain; its capital is ...
. The principal characteristic of the region is the existence of a quite lengthy period of summer drought, which may last anywhere from 2 to 4 months, but which, regardless of length, is always quite distinct. Rainfall can range from 1500 mm to less than 350 mm. Temperatures range from regions that have no frost for many years to those that reach -20 °C, or even lower, every winter. If one ignores, for the moment, the influence of the mountains, the typical Mediterranean peninsular forest is made up of evergreen trees: oak forests, cork oaks, wild olives, juniper, and so on. These are accompanied or replaced in the warmer regions and eroded by forests of Aleppo pine ('' Pinus halepensis'') and in areas of sandy ground and fixed sand dunes by
juniper Junipers are coniferous trees and shrubs in the genus ''Juniperus'' () of the cypress family Cupressaceae. Depending on the taxonomy, between 50 and 67 species of junipers are widely distributed throughout the Northern Hemisphere, from the Arcti ...
and stone pine forests. Exceptions to the rule are the more arid region in the southeast, the lower regions of the provinces of Murcia and Almeria, where the only vegetation is the European fan palm (''
Chamaerops humilis ''Chamaerops'' is a genus of flowering plants in the family Arecaceae. The only currently fully accepted species is ''Chamaerops humilis'', variously called European fan palm or the Mediterranean dwarf palm. It is one of the most hardy palms, ...
''), and thorny thickets of blackthorn and at higher elevations, Kermes oak groves and mastic (''
Pistacia lentiscus ''Pistacia lentiscus'' (also lentisk or mastic) is a dioecious evergreen shrub or small tree of the genus ''Pistacia'' native to the Mediterranean Basin. It grows up to tall and is cultivated for its aromatic resin, mainly on the Greek islan ...
''). The same can be said of the salty or endorheic zones, with great differences in temperature, such as the depression of the Ebro, Hoya de Baza and the chalky marls further inland.


Pyrenean Oaks

Of all the oaks, the Pyrenean oak (''
Quercus pyrenaica ''Quercus pyrenaica'', commonly known as Pyrenean oak, is a tree native to southwestern Europe and northwestern North Africa. Despite its common name, it is rarely found in the Pyrenees Mountains and is more abundant in northern Portugal and nort ...
'') is the most resistant to drought and the continental-style climate. These forests, of a sub-Atlantic character, often represent the shift from Mediterranean vegetation to Atlantic vegetation. They cover a wide area of the peninsula and are of great importance, above all on the mountain ranges in the centre of the peninsula; from the interior of
Galicia Galicia may refer to: Geographic regions * Galicia (Spain), a region and autonomous community of northwestern Spain ** Gallaecia, a Roman province ** The post-Roman Kingdom of the Suebi, also called the Kingdom of Gallaecia ** The medieval King ...
and extending south of the
Cordillera Cantábrica The Cantabrian Mountains or Cantabrian Range ( es, Cordillera Cantábrica) are one of the main systems of mountain ranges in Spain. They stretch for over 300 km (180 miles) across northern Spain, from the western limit of the Pyrenee ...
they extend throughout the Sistema Central, reaching, to the south, (though scarce by the time they reach this region) the
Sierra Nevada The Sierra Nevada () is a mountain range in the Western United States, between the Central Valley of California and the Great Basin. The vast majority of the range lies in the state of California, although the Carson Range spur lies primarily ...
and Cádiz. They usually extend from 700 to 800 metres to 1500 to 1600 m elevation. They prefer siliceous soil and, as elevation increases, they replace the damp oak forests and cork oak; on the high ground they give way to Scots pine ('' Pinus sylvestris'') forests or to ''los piornales serranos'' with creeping juniper. In areas where the influence of the Atlantic is more evident, they are taken over by heather and '' Erica australis''; in the remainder, in clearings and in more degraded phases, rock rose ('' Cistaceae'') mixed with laurel leaf and Spanish lavender ('' Lavandula stoechas'') is more frequent. Their natural range is usually covered by forests of Scots pine or
maritime pine ''Pinus pinaster'', the maritime pine or cluster pine, is a pine native to the south Atlantic Europe region and parts of the western Mediterranean. It is a hard, fast growing pine bearing small seeds with large wings. Description ''Pinus pinast ...
.


Groves, riparian forests, and valley floors

In the groves, riparian forests, and valley floors, there are enclaves of deciduous forests that favor the moist ground, which is constant almost all year; this allows them to avoid the consequences of the summer drought so characteristic of a Mediterranean climate. There we see a characteristic pattern, as we move outward from the edge of the riverbed, so that the woodlands that are most dependent on the aquifer are on the riverbank, that is, ( alders and willow groves) and those less dependent on water are located further away, such as the (
ash Ash or ashes are the solid remnants of fires. Specifically, ''ash'' refers to all non-aqueous, non- gaseous residues that remain after something burns. In analytical chemistry, to analyse the mineral and metal content of chemical samples, ash ...
, elm, and poplar groves). These woodlands are formed by willows, poplars, alder, ash, elm and sometimes by Pyrenean oak (''Quercus pyrenaica''),
lime trees ''Tilia'' is a genus of about 30 species of trees or bushes, native throughout most of the temperate Northern Hemisphere. The tree is known as linden for the European species, and basswood for North American species. In Britain and Ireland they ...
, birches and
hazel The hazel (''Corylus'') is a genus of deciduous trees and large shrubs native to the temperate Northern Hemisphere. The genus is usually placed in the birch family Betulaceae,Germplasmgobills Information Network''Corylus''Rushforth, K. (1999). ...
trees. When the humidity starts to diminish in barren areas of the Ebro valley, the Levante and the southern half of the peninsula, the dryness is often accompanied by an increase of salts in the ground; under such conditions one can find formations of tamarisk shrubs, oleanders and giant reeds (''
Saccharum ravennae ''Tripidium ravennae'', synonym ''Saccharum ravennae'' (and many others), with the common names ravennagrass and elephant grass, is a species of grass in the genus ''Tripidium''. It is native to southern Europe, western Asia and South Asia and is ...
''), sometimes accompanied by heather. In soils rich in silica but not in salts, such as those of the Sierra Morena and the Montes de Toledo,
spurge ''Euphorbia'' is a very large and diverse genus of flowering plants, commonly called spurge, in the family Euphorbiaceae. "Euphorbia" is sometimes used in ordinary English to collectively refer to all members of Euphorbiaceae (in deference to t ...
appears, accompanied, in the warmest places, by oleanders and tamarisks. In the lowlands further inland, above all in the marls and clay soils, field elms ('' Ulmus minor'') and poplar groves are more common, with occasional ashes and willows. At the bottom of granite valleys and on the siliceous riverbanks, there are very typical formations of ash with Pyrenean oak, especially at the foot of thin interior mountain ranges. The sheltered gorges of the Serranía de Cuenca have mixed riparian forests of lime and hazel trees, with ashes, willows and Wych elm ('' Ulmus glabra''). Because these woods occupied some of the most fertile lands, where people have planted orchards since ancient times, they have not been well preserved.


Spanish firs

The Spanish fir (''
Abies pinsapo ''Abies pinsapo'', the Spanish fir, is a species of tree in the family Pinaceae, native to southern Spain and northern Morocco. Related to other species of Mediterranean firs, it appears at altitudes of in the Sierra de Grazalema in the Province ...
'') is a true relic which has remained preserved in some mountain ranges around
Málaga Málaga (, ) is a municipality of Spain, capital of the Province of Málaga, in the autonomous community of Andalusia. With a population of 578,460 in 2020, it is the second-most populous city in Andalusia after Seville and the sixth most pop ...
and Cádiz. Spanish firs are related to the North African spruce forests of the Yebala range, in Morocco. They come into contact with Algerian oak (''
Quercus canariensis ''Quercus canariensis'', the Algerian oak, Mirbeck's oak or zean oak, is an oak in the section ''Quercus'' sect. ''Mesobalanus'', native to southern Portugal, Spain, Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco. Despite the scientific name, it does not occur na ...
'') and other oak trees and sometimes even form mixed communities with these. Among the woody species also found in these forests are the
hawthorn Hawthorn or Hawthorns may refer to: Plants * '' Crataegus'' (hawthorn), a large genus of shrubs and trees in the family Rosaceae * ''Rhaphiolepis'' (hawthorn), a genus of about 15 species of evergreen shrubs and small trees in the family Rosace ...
,
barberry ''Berberis'' (), commonly known as barberry, is a large genus of deciduous and evergreen shrubs from tall, found throughout temperate and subtropical regions of the world (apart from Australia). Species diversity is greatest in South America a ...
, butcher's broom ('' Ruscus aculeatus''), ''
Viburnum tinus ''Viburnum tinus'', the laurustinus, laurustine or laurestine, is a species of flowering plant in the family (biology), family Adoxaceae, native plant, native to the Mediterranean area of Europe and North Africa. ''Laurus'' signifies the leaves' ...
'', ivy, and ''
Daphne laureola ''Daphne laureola'', commonly called spurge-laurel, is a shrub in the flowering plant family Thymelaeaceae. Despite the name, this woodland plant is neither a spurge nor a laurel. Its native range covers much of Europe and extends to Algeria, Mo ...
''. It forms dense and dark forests in very distinct enclaves, in areas with high rainfall (from 2,000 to 3,000 mm, due to the sudden cooling, with elevation, of humid winds), at elevations of over 1,000 metres. The forest has abundant moss and lichens, but very few shrubs and herbaceous plants. In all cases, Spanish fir occupies high mountain zones (such as the Sierra de las Nieves, Sierra Bermeja, and
Sierra de Grazalema Grazalema is a village located in the northeastern part of the province of Cádiz, in the autonomous community of Andalusia, Spain. Situated in the foothills of the Sierra del Pinar mountain range (Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park), Grazalema h ...
).


Holm oak forests

Forests of Holm oak (''
Quercus rotundifolia ''Quercus rotundifolia'', the holm oak or ballota oak, is an evergreen oak native to the western Mediterranean region, with the majority on the Iberian Peninsula and minor populations in Northwest Africa. The species was first described by Jean- ...
'') form natural forests in most of the Mediterranean region as well as penetrating into the warmer sun-exposed areas and hillsides of the Atlantic region; they extend from sea level, with the subspecies ''ilex'', to an elevation of 1400 metres, in some mountains and high plains of the interior; in the continental zone, the oak found is the subspecies ''rotundifolia'', more resistant to such a climate. The holm oak can also be found at higher elevations, but as isolated trees, not forming forests. Coastal oak forests and those of sublittoral mountains are extraordinarily rich and varied, with a variety of shrubs and lianas; often accompanied by bramble, honeysuckle, ivy, ''Viburnum tinus'',
butcher's broom ''Ruscus aculeatus'', known as butcher's-broom, is a low evergreen dioecious Eurasian shrub, with flat shoots known as cladodes that give the appearance of stiff, spine-tipped leaves. Small greenish flowers appear in spring, and are borne singly ...
and, in the southwest of the peninsula, wild
olive The olive, botanical name ''Olea europaea'', meaning 'European olive' in Latin, is a species of small tree or shrub in the family Oleaceae, found traditionally in the Mediterranean Basin. When in shrub form, it is known as ''Olea europaea'' ...
trees. The oak forests of the
Balearic Islands The Balearic Islands ( es, Islas Baleares ; or ca, Illes Balears ) are an archipelago in the Balearic Sea, near the eastern coast of the Iberian Peninsula. The archipelago is an autonomous community and a province of Spain; its capital is ...
are also rich, and incorporate characteristic species of the islands, such as the Balearic cyclamen ('' Cyclamen balearicum Willk.''). Towards the interior of the peninsula, these forests become progressively more scarce: as the continental characteristics of the climate become stronger, the species most sensitive to cold become steadily more scarce. The continental groves, on soils lacking lime ( calcium oxide), tend to be rich in junipers ('' Juniperus oxycedrus'') and are superseded at higher elevations and on cooler slopes by Pyrenean Oaks. This phenomenon is apparent in the Sierra de Guadarrama: when the oak forests have been destroyed, the soil is so poor and the environmental conditions so unfavourable, that it leads to ragged thickets dominated by common rock rose, Spanish lavender and rosemary. On limy soils something similar takes place, above all at elevations of over 900 metres, oaks are accompanied by Spanish juniper (''
Juniperus thurifera ''Juniperus thurifera'' (Spanish juniper) is a species of juniper native to the mountains of the western Mediterranean region, from southern France (including Corsica) across eastern and central Spain to Morocco and locally in northern Algeria. ...
'') and the scarcity of shrubs is such that the same Holm oak (''Q. ilex'' subsp. ''rotundifolia'' or ''ballota'') dominates almost entirely on its own the first phases of deterioration of the forest. The degradation caused by burning or felling leads to thickets of Scorpion's thorn (''
Genista scorpius Genista is a genus of flowering plants in the legume family Fabaceae, native to open habitats such as moorland and pasture in Europe and western Asia. They include species commonly called broom, though the term may also refer to other genera, ...
''), thyme and common lavender ('' Lavandula angustifolia'').


Cork oak forests

Cork oak forests occupy around 10,000 square kilometres on the peninsula, more than half of the world's extension of this kind of forest. The cork oak forest needs siliceous soils of a sandy texture, and a mild, slightly damp climate. Under such conditions it totally or partially displaces the Holm oak; Holm oak may be found in stands of Cork Oak with a certain frequency, as well as Portuguese oaks (''
Quercus faginea ''Quercus faginea'', the Portuguese oak, is a species of oak native to the western Mediterranean region in the Iberian Peninsula. Similar trees in the Atlas Mountains of northwest Africa are usually included in this species, or sometimes treate ...
'' subsp ''broteroi''). The area occupied by oak forests corresponds above all to the southwest quadrant of the peninsula, but also to Catalonia, Menorca and even the non-coastal valleys of
Galicia Galicia may refer to: Geographic regions * Galicia (Spain), a region and autonomous community of northwestern Spain ** Gallaecia, a Roman province ** The post-Roman Kingdom of the Suebi, also called the Kingdom of Gallaecia ** The medieval King ...
. They often alternate with the oaks, which occupy the drier slopes and with the ''quejigares'' of
Algerian oak ''Quercus canariensis'', the Algerian oak, Mirbeck's oak or zean oak, is an oak in the section ''Quercus'' sect. ''Mesobalanus'', native to southern Portugal, Spain, Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco. Despite the scientific name, it does not occur na ...
(''
Quercus canariensis ''Quercus canariensis'', the Algerian oak, Mirbeck's oak or zean oak, is an oak in the section ''Quercus'' sect. ''Mesobalanus'', native to southern Portugal, Spain, Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco. Despite the scientific name, it does not occur na ...
''), that occupy the ravines and cool, shady northward slopes. The cork oak forests often contain wild olives, and like some of the cool groves, are often accompanied by strawberry trees ('' Arbutus unedo'') with mock privet (''
Phillyrea angustifolia ''Phillyrea angustifolia'', the narrow-leaved mock privet,RHS Plants. Available at: https://www.rhs.org.uk/Plants/24488/i-Phillyrea-angustifolia-i/Details ccessed 22/02/21/ref> is a species of flowering plant in the olive family Oleaceae, native ...
'') which grow in the clearings of these forests and dominate their regressive phases. In western Andalusia, other common components of the ecosystem are the areas of common broom, genus '' Cytisus''.


Quejigares

The term ''quejigar'' refers to forests of many different characteristics. Forests of Algerian oaks (''
Quercus canariensis ''Quercus canariensis'', the Algerian oak, Mirbeck's oak or zean oak, is an oak in the section ''Quercus'' sect. ''Mesobalanus'', native to southern Portugal, Spain, Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco. Despite the scientific name, it does not occur na ...
'') are well represented in western Andalusia and very patchily by hybridizations in Catalonia and the Cordillera Mariánica. They are the most demanding as to temperature and humidity, and therefore do not usually stray too far from areas with a maritime climate; they prefer the cooler, shady northward slopes, damp meadows and the banks of
stream A stream is a continuous body of water, body of surface water Current (stream), flowing within the stream bed, bed and bank (geography), banks of a channel (geography), channel. Depending on its location or certain characteristics, a stream ...
s of the lower ground. In general, they alternate with the Cork Oaks, which they displace in the coolest zones; both prefer siliceous soils. In the clearings and degraded stages of these forests ''los piornos'' (''Teline sp., Cytisus baeticus''), heather ('' Erica arborea'', ''
Erica scoparia ''Erica scoparia'', the green heather, is a shrubby species of heath in the flowering plant family Ericaceae. It is native to the western Mediterranean Basin in the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal), Northwest Africa (Morocco, Algeria and Tu ...
''), and rock rose (''
Halimium lasianthum ''Halimium lasianthum'', the Lisbon false sun-rose or woolly rock rose, is a species of flowering plant in the family Cistaceae, native to the Iberian Peninsula (Portugal, western Spain and southwestern France) and Northwest Africa (Morocco). It ...
'') are common. ''Los quejigares'' of Portuguese oaks (''
Quercus faginea ''Quercus faginea'', the Portuguese oak, is a species of oak native to the western Mediterranean region in the Iberian Peninsula. Similar trees in the Atlas Mountains of northwest Africa are usually included in this species, or sometimes treate ...
'' subsp ''faginea'') are the most typical and common of the peninsula, since they are found from the ''Serranía de Ronda'' in Andalusia to the lower slopes of the Pyrenees. They are much more resistant to the cold and damp than ''Q. canariensis''; on the other hand, they need cooler and deeper soils than the Holm oaks with which they come into contact. Although they can grow in any type of soil, in siliceous soils the usually play a secondary part with respect to Holm oaks, cork oaks, and Pyrenean oaks; it is only on chalky soils that it forms forests of any consideration, especially in the northeast quadrant and centre of the Peninsula. The natural area corresponding to the ''quejigo'' is frequently the black pine (''
Pinus nigra ''Pinus nigra'', the Austrian pine or black pine, is a moderately variable species of pine, occurring across Southern Europe from the Iberian Peninsula to the eastern Mediterranean, on the Anatolian peninsula of Turkey, Corsica and Cyprus, as wel ...
'' subsp ''salzmannii''), which often has been extended at its expense. ''Los quejigares'' can often include '' maples, serbales,'' European serviceberry or snowy mespilus (''
Amelanchier ovalis ''Amelanchier ovalis'', commonly known as snowy mespilus (a name which is also attached to the related '' A. lamarckii'') or serviceberry, is a deciduous shrub in the family Rosaceae. Its pome fruits are edible and can be eaten raw or cooked. The ...
''), common privet ('' Ligustrum vulgare L.'') and common dogwood ('' Cornus sanguinea''); their degradation can lead to extensive thickets of
box A box (plural: boxes) is a container used for the storage or transportation of its contents. Most boxes have flat, parallel, rectangular sides. Boxes can be very small (like a matchbox) or very large (like a shipping box for furniture), and can ...
. The last ''quejigo'', ''Quercus faginea'' subsp ''broteri'' requires the most moisture and is least resistant to cold. It is found principally in the southwest quadrant and prefers siliceous soils, somewhat cool. More frequently than in pure concentrations, it is found mixed with cork oaks and Holm oaks.


Pine forests

The most characteristic natural pine forests are those of ''pino negro'' (''
Pinus uncinata ''Pinus mugo'', known as bog pine, creeping pine, dwarf mountain pine, mugo pine, mountain pine, scrub mountain pine, or Swiss mountain pine, is a species of conifer, native to high elevation habitats from southwestern to Central Europe and Sou ...
'') and Scots pine ('' Pinus sylvestris''). The former is often associated with ''
Rhododendron ferrugineum ''Rhododendron ferrugineum'', the alpenrose, snow-rose, or rusty-leaved alpenrose is an evergreen shrub that grows just above the tree line in the Alps, Pyrenees, Jura and northern Apennines, on acid soils. It is the type species for the genus ' ...
'', blueberries, '' Salix pyrenaica'' and other shrubby species on the subalpine slopes of the Pyrenees. Over less washed limestone soils it is usually accompanied by Savin juniper (''
Juniperus sabina ''Juniperus sabina'', the savin juniper or savin, is a species of juniper native to the mountains of central and southern Europe and western and central Asia, from Spain to eastern Siberia, typically growing at altitudes of .Farjon, A. (2005). ' ...
L.''), common juniper ('' Juniperus communis'' subsp. ''hemisphaerica''), and common bearberry ('' rctostaphylos uva-ursi'). Such forests make up the tree line in most of the Pyrenees, reaching 2400 metres. The Scots pine plays the same part in the other peninsular mountains, both siliceous and limy. It is accompanied and superseded at high elevation by ''piornales,'' dwarf junipers, and hummocky high mountain thickets. Their lower altitudinal limit remains patchy, having been extended at the expense of deciduous forests. The maritime pine ('' Pinus pinaster'') is found at an intermediate elevation and on generally siliceous soil, which in
Galicia Galicia may refer to: Geographic regions * Galicia (Spain), a region and autonomous community of northwestern Spain ** Gallaecia, a Roman province ** The post-Roman Kingdom of the Suebi, also called the Kingdom of Gallaecia ** The medieval King ...
goes down to sea level and inland alternates with Pyrenean oak. Over limestone, the black pine (''
Pinus nigra ''Pinus nigra'', the Austrian pine or black pine, is a moderately variable species of pine, occurring across Southern Europe from the Iberian Peninsula to the eastern Mediterranean, on the Anatolian peninsula of Turkey, Corsica and Cyprus, as wel ...
'' subsp ''salzmannii'')CSIC List of Iberian flora ''Pinus sp.''
plays an important role in many of the mountain ranges in the centre, east and south of the Peninsula; in limy soil, and at the same elevation, it usually displaces the former. Both are displaced at higher elevations by the Scots pine. The warmest of all the pine forests are those of Aleppo pine ('' Pinus halepensis''), which are situated on rocky crests and sunny hillsides. Aleppo pine is the typical pine of the Mediterranean coast, from sea level to an elevation of 800–1000 metres in the interior; these prefer limy soils. The stone pine ('' Pinus pinea''), possibly the most characteristic of all, occupies sandy soils. It grows extensively both in the sandy areas of the lowlands in the provinces of Cádiz and Huelva, as well as points further inland ( Valladolid, Cuenca, and Madrid). Finally, especial mention is necessary of the Monterey pine ('' Pinus radiata''), because of its importance in reforestation and managed forests.


Juniper groves

The juniper groves of Spanish juniper (''
Juniperus thurifera ''Juniperus thurifera'' (Spanish juniper) is a species of juniper native to the mountains of the western Mediterranean region, from southern France (including Corsica) across eastern and central Spain to Morocco and locally in northern Algeria. ...
'') constitute a curious formation that occupies the high
heaths A heath () is a shrubland habitat found mainly on free-draining infertile, acidic soils and characterised by open, low-growing woody vegetation. Moorland is generally related to high-ground heaths with—especially in Great Britain—a cooler a ...
and ''mesetas'' of the interior, nearly always above 900 metres elevation. The principal woodlands of this type are in the Serranía de Cuenca, Sistema Ibérico, Alcarria, Maestrazgo and other mountains of the interior. They do not usually form dense forests, but rather parkland or small woods in meadows. They prefer soils developed over limestone, especially those of an ochre or reddish color and rich in clay, ''de carácter relicto (Terra rosa, Terra fusca);'' on occasions, as in the region of
Tamajón Tamajón is a municipality located in the province of Guadalajara, Castile-La Mancha, Spain. According to the 2006 census (INE INE, Ine or ine may refer to: Institutions * Institut für Nukleare Entsorgung, a German nuclear research center * ...
(Guadalajara), they also colonize siliceous terrain. They are adapted to an exceptionally harsh continental climate, where practically no other species of tree is a rival; except for the Holm oak, which occupies some of the old, deforested juniper groves, and the European black pine (''
Pinus nigra ''Pinus nigra'', the Austrian pine or black pine, is a moderately variable species of pine, occurring across Southern Europe from the Iberian Peninsula to the eastern Mediterranean, on the Anatolian peninsula of Turkey, Corsica and Cyprus, as wel ...
'') which can accompany it with a certain frequency. The common juniper ('' Juniperus communis'' subsp. ''hemisphaerica'') is habitually a secondary species of these groves. At high elevations they come in contact with forests of Scots pine and with the
Savin juniper ''Juniperus sabina'', the savin juniper or savin, is a species of juniper native to the mountains of central and southern Europe and western and central Asia, from Spain to eastern Siberia, typically growing at altitudes of .Farjon, A. (2005). ' ...
; the latter sometimes forming part of the shrubby stratum. The fact that these are to be found mainly in areas which have been exposed for a large part of the Tertiary and over soils considered ''relictos'', supposes a great antiquity for such groves. The harsh climatological conditions, with the surface of the ground undergoing processes of alternate freezing and thawing ( cryoturbation), makes difficult the development of elevated brush. In their regressive stages, they tend toward hummocky thickets of ''cambrones'' (''Genista pumila'') or tomillares ''y prados de diente dominados por'' dwarf shrubs and dog's tooth grass. At lower elevations these groves can also alternate with '' espliego y aliaga.'' The Phoenicean juniper (''
Juniperus phoenicea ''Juniperus phoenicea'', the Phoenicean juniper or Arâr, is a juniper found throughout the Mediterranean region. Description ''Juniperus phoenicea'' is a large shrub or small tree reaching tall, with a trunk up to in diameter and a rounded o ...
'') habitually plays a secondary part and does not often form dense woods. Only on some rocky shelves or in special environments such as fixed dunes and sandy areas near the coast do they manage to form woodlands of any importance.


Thickets of the high Mediterranean mountains

The high Mediterranean mountains above 1700 metres present some special characteristics. Winters are very harsh and long; the thickness of the snow and strong frosts prevent almost any type of biological activity. Once the snow has disappeared, the soil dries quickly due to the strong sun and high temperatures reached in summer. The period suitable for the growth of vegetation is therefore very short and for the above-mentioned reasons, the land is dry most of the time. Under such conditions, the forest enters a state of crisis, being replaced by ''piornales'' (ciste and broom formations) and thickets ''pluvinulares'' accompanied at lower levels by Scots pine, often isolated individuals twisted and deformed by the snow. Siliceous mountains such as the Sistema Central, Serra da Estrela, the Sistema Ibérico of the region of Soria, and parts of the Cantabrian mountains, are covered by thickets of ''
Cytisus purgans ''Cytisus'' is a genus of flowering plants in the family Fabaceae, native to open sites (typically scrub and heathland) in Europe, western Asia and North Africa. It belongs to the subfamily Faboideae, and is one of several genera in the tribe Ge ...
'' (variously known as "Andorra broom", "Provence broom", or "Spanish gold hardy broom") or Alpine juniper ('' Juniperus communis'' subsp. ''alpina''). In the
Sierra Nevada The Sierra Nevada () is a mountain range in the Western United States, between the Central Valley of California and the Great Basin. The vast majority of the range lies in the state of California, although the Carson Range spur lies primarily ...
, on the other hand, under similar conditions, the ''Genista baetica'',CSIC List of Iberian flora ''Genista sp.''
is more dominant, sometimes accompanied by ''Cytisus purgans'' and another species of juniper (''J. communis'' subsp. ''hemisphaerica''). In the limestone mountains such as the Maestrazgo and Serranía de Cuenca, a shrubby formation of Savin juniper (''
Juniperus sabina ''Juniperus sabina'', the savin juniper or savin, is a species of juniper native to the mountains of central and southern Europe and western and central Asia, from Spain to eastern Siberia, typically growing at altitudes of .Farjon, A. (2005). ' ...
'') accompanied by Scots pine is characteristic. In the limestone mountains of Andalusia a detectable role is played by thickets ''pluvilunares'' and hummocks of common buckthorn ('' Rhamnus cathartica'').


Shrubby borders or undergrowths

From an ecological point of view, shrubby borders are fundamental in forest ecosystems to guarantee the natural regeneration of the woods, as well as to provide food and refuge for the associated fauna. They are made up of spiny shrubs, depending on the forest and climate, such as
gorse ''Ulex'' (commonly known as gorse, furze, or whin) is a genus of flowering plants in the family Fabaceae. The genus comprises about 20 species of thorny evergreen shrubs in the subfamily Faboideae of the pea family Fabaceae. The species are n ...
,
box A box (plural: boxes) is a container used for the storage or transportation of its contents. Most boxes have flat, parallel, rectangular sides. Boxes can be very small (like a matchbox) or very large (like a shipping box for furniture), and can ...
, thyme, and so on.


Stages of degradation

It is possible to identify successive stages in the process of degradation of these various forest formations, from an optimum state to the final phase of desertification. These regressive states, in the case of leafy forests, are the following: # Dense forest representative of an optimal natural state, characterized by endemic species, compatible with local biological conditions. # ''Bosque aclarado,'' still with a predominance of the native species, but with abundant representation of a variety of species such as holly, maple, and
ash Ash or ashes are the solid remnants of fires. Specifically, ''ash'' refers to all non-aqueous, non- gaseous residues that remain after something burns. In analytical chemistry, to analyse the mineral and metal content of chemical samples, ash ...
. Frequently, leguminous plants predominate in the scrub of the underbrush. # Stage of pine forests. The native species have practically disappeared, as has the associated vegetation. Together with the pines, heliophilic (preferring dry and sunny habitats) and invasive brush start to appear, almost always based on the families '' Cistaceae'' and '' Ericaceae.'' # The stratum of trees as such disappears, along with its associated species, replaced progressively by brush representative of a very advanced degradation; there is a high frequency of thorny plants ( Scorpion's thorn, blackthorn ('' Prunus spinosa''), etc.) and a predominance of
Lamiaceae The Lamiaceae ( ) or Labiatae are a family of flowering plants commonly known as the mint, deadnettle or sage family. Many of the plants are aromatic in all parts and include widely used culinary herbs like basil, mint, rosemary, sage, savory ...
''y compuestas'' ( Tomillo vulgar, heather, pennyroyal (''Mentha pulegium''), etc.). # The ground cover is reduced, not only in the size of plants, but also in the area it occupies; now it forms a herbaceous and discontinuous tapestry, with a general predominance of dog's tooth grass. Woody plants are reduced to some thickets, the
bedrock In geology, bedrock is solid Rock (geology), rock that lies under loose material (regolith) within the crust (geology), crust of Earth or another terrestrial planet. Definition Bedrock is the solid rock that underlies looser surface mater ...
being exposed as a consequence of erosion. This is the typical landscape of the
steppe In physical geography, a steppe () is an ecoregion characterized by grassland plains without trees apart from those near rivers and lakes. Steppe biomes may include: * the montane grasslands and shrublands biome * the temperate grasslands, ...
. # The final stage of regression is represented by desertified ground.


Notes


References and bibliography

* * * *


External links


Iberian nature portal
- English-language portal on Iberian nature
Atlas Forestal de Castilla y León


* S. Riera Mora
Cambios vegetales holocenos en la región mediterránea de la Península Ibérica
(pdf)
Los alcornocales
o
WWF/Adena
(pdf). * Jose Lietor Gallego
Patrones de disponilidad de nutrientes en masas de pinsapar
(pdf). Doctoral thesis. Rev. Ecosistemas. {{DEFAULTSORT:Forests Of The Iberian Peninsula Forests of Spain Forests of Portugal Geography of Spain Ecoregions of Spain Environment of the Mediterranean .