Dumchele
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Dumchele or Dhumtsele (, ) is a village and a grazing area near the Line of Actual Control between
Ladakh Ladakh () is a region administered by India as a union territory which constitutes a part of the larger Kashmir region and has been the subject of dispute between India, Pakistan, and China since 1947. (subscription required) Quote: "Jammu and ...
and
Tibet Tibet (; ''Böd''; ) is a region in East Asia, covering much of the Tibetan Plateau and spanning about . It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people. Also resident on the plateau are some other ethnic groups such as Monpa people, ...
, administered by China since October 1962 but claimed by India. The locale is in the disputed
Demchok sector The Demchok sector is a disputed area named after the villages of Demchok in Ladakh and Demchok in Tibet, situated near the confluence of the Charding Nullah and Indus River. It is a part of the greater Sino-Indian border dispute between ...
, about 50 kilometers northwest from Demchok and 50 kilometers southeast of Chushul. It lies on a historic trade route between Ladakh and Rutog, with an erstwhile border pass at Chang La or Shingong La () to the southeast of Dumchele. A river flows below the Chang La pass, collecting mountain streams from the north. A rich grazing ground is formed near the pass, called Kigunaru, and the river itself is called Kigunaru river (). It is also called Shingong Lungpa. Until 1962 India maintained a 'forward' post at Chang La, a day's march from Dumchele. In the 1962 war, China attacked the post and forced India to withdraw from the entire Kigunaru river basin. At the present time, China maintains a border trading market at Dumchele and a military post nearby.


Geography

Dumchele is at present a trading village for cross-border trade in Chinese-administered part of the northern
Demchok sector The Demchok sector is a disputed area named after the villages of Demchok in Ladakh and Demchok in Tibet, situated near the confluence of the Charding Nullah and Indus River. It is a part of the greater Sino-Indian border dispute between ...
. Traditionally, it was a grazing area. The Indus valley here is about four miles wide, and sandy with a thin layer of grass. That, coupled with the fact that there is no snow here in winter, makes it a most important winter grazing area for the Changpa nomads. The Ladakhis call this area Skakjung (or ''Kokzhung''). The present Dumchele village is on the bank of a mid-sized lake, which is apparently fed by a strand of the Kigunaru River (or Shingong Lungpa). The river flows down from the mountains of the Kailash Range forming the eastern watershed of the Indus Valley. It passes by the Chang La pass, where it makes a 90 degree bend, and flows west through a gap in the Kailash Range into the Indus valley. Afterwards, it gets "divided by an island", with a strand flowing straight, and another flowing north parallel to the Indus river. The north-flowing strand gathers into the Dumchele lake, which appears to be
endorheic An endorheic basin (; also spelled endoreic basin or endorreic basin) is a drainage basin that normally retains water and allows no outflow to other external bodies of water, such as rivers or oceans, but drainage converges instead into lakes ...
. The formation of the lake appears to be a recent phenomenon as it is not shown on any maps prior to 1960. To the west of Dumchele is an older, more natural lake called Tsoskur. The Line of Actual Control between the Indian and Chinese-administered parts in this sector runs between the two lakes.


History

The Dumchele plain lies along a trade route between
Lahaul The Lahaul and Spiti district in the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh consists of the two formerly separate districts of Lahaul () and Spiti (; or ). The present administrative centre is Kyelang in Lahaul. Before the two districts were merged, ...
and
Rudok Rudok, also spelt Rutok and Rutog, more properly Rudok Dzong (), is a town that served as the historical capital of the Rudok area in Western Tibet on the frontier with Ladakh. In the 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica, it is described as being "pict ...
, which is known at least since the 17th century. The Ladakhis also used this route on occasion, even though their main route was via Chushul (called the "Junglam"). Siddiq Wahid (February 2014
The Changthang Borderlands of Ladakh: A Preliminary Inquiry (Discussion Paper # 187)
Research and Information Systems for Developing Countries. Retrieved on 31 October 2020.


British Raj

Moorcroft W. Moorcroft Limited (trading as W Moorcroft Ltd) is a British art pottery manufacturer based at Burslem in Stoke-on-Trent, England. The company was founded by William Moorcroft in 1913. History In 1897, Staffordshire pottery manufacturers ...
's associate,
George Trebeck George Trebeck (1800–1825) was born in Middlesex, England in the year 1800. He moved to Calcutta, West Bengal circa 1815 with his father Charles Trebeck and brother of the same name. George Trebeck, who was trained as a solicitor, was recrui ...
, visited the area in early 19th century, travelling south on the right bank of Indus. He stayed at a place called Chibra very near Dumchele. The area was studded with small ponds and lakes, and a rivulet crossed the Indus bed (Kigunaru river, also called Xingong Lungpa), getting divided by an island. He described the Indus river bed as consisting of loose sand, with a form of sand-grass called ''Long-ma'' growing on it. It provided winter grazing for the Ladakhis, apparently the only winter grazing available in the whole of
Rupshu Rupshu is a high elevation plateau and valley and an eponymous Community development block in India, community development block in southeast Ladakh. Description Frederic Drew describes the Rupshu valley as follows: Drew states that the valle ...
. He also noticed a trading party belonging to the Kalon of Ladakh return from Rudok, carrying fifty-six sheep loads of shawl wool (''
pashm Pashmina (, ) refers to, depending on the source, a term for cashmere wool of the Changthangi cashmere goat,Janet Rizvi: ''Pashmina: The Kashmir Shawl and Beyond''. Marg Foundation, 2009. ISBN 978-8185026909. for fine Indian cashmere woolRobert R ...
'') and further loads of coarse wool. The border of Ladakh was described to Trebeck as running from "the angle of a hill about five miles to the east" to the low pass of ''La Ganskiel'' (the "Lagankhel" of later maps). Scholar Janet Rizvi confirms that traders often travelled with donkeys via Chang La to Rudok and returned with salt and wool. Ladakhi monks that went to Tibet for education and training also used the route, travelling with traders. In 1847, Henry Strachey visited the left bank of Indus, as part of a British boundary commission for Kashmir. In contrast to Trebeck's testimony, he found that Ladakh's territory stretched up to a
rivulet A stream is a continuous body of surface water flowing within the bed and banks of a channel. Depending on its location or certain characteristics, a stream may be referred to by a variety of local or regional names. Long large streams are ...
flowing into the Indus next to the Demchok. The Tibetan guards at Demchok did not allow him to proceed beyond this point. After conducting Kashmir Survey between 1855 and 1865, the British government published a ''Kashmir Atlas'', with a defined border. This border ignored Strachey's findings and tried to represent Trebeck's information. It excluded Demchok on the left bank of Indus, leaving the border at Lagankhel, and excluded all the right bank up to the confluence of the Kigunaru river. In between Lagankhel and Kigunaru river, the border ran along the Indus river itself. (See the map by the US
Army Map Service The Army Map Service (AMS) was the military cartographic agency of the United States Department of Defense from 1941 to 1968, subordinated to the United States Army Corps of Engineers. On September 1, 1968, the AMS was redesignated the U.S. Army T ...
.) Kashmir's geologist Frederic Drew created a map in connection with his book, ''The Jummoo and Kashmir Territories'', in 1875. His border, professedly based on the territories actually used by the Ladakhis and Tibetans for grazing, placed the Chang La ("Chang Pass") and the entire basin of the Kigunaru river within Ladakh. Despite the various British efforts at border definition, the situation on the ground was essentially unchanged. The state of
Kashmir Kashmir () is the northernmost geographical region of the Indian subcontinent. Until the mid-19th century, the term "Kashmir" denoted only the Kashmir Valley between the Great Himalayas and the Pir Panjal Range. Today, the term encompas ...
was ruled by a native Maharaja who enjoyed considerable autonomy. The traditional borders appear to have continued until the time of India's independence in 1947.


1962 war and aftermath

In October 1962, during the Sino-Indian War, the Chinese occupied the Dumchele area, along with the entire right bank of the Indus to the south of Dumchele. The Line of Actual Control resulting from the war runs between Dumchele and the smaller lake of Tsoskur to the west. During and following the Indo-Pakistan war of 1965, the Dumchele area saw some action mainly in the form of the Indian and Chinese governments exchanging notes blaming each other for intruding into ''their'' territory. Near Tsoskur, southwest of Dumchele, three Indian armed personnel were killed by PLA troops on 19 September 1965. The Chinese alleged that India had committed its "worst border provocation since 1962" at Dumchele.


Trading post

China built a border trading post at Dumchele, meant for the Ladakhis to access. The PLA military stationed near Dumchele allows this trade. For a few days during the winter the trade intensifies. A 2014 study by Siddiq Wahid reports "illicit trade" (smuggling) of "tiger bones, tiger skins, rhino horns and sandalwood". Items exchanged also include rice, wheat and cooking oil, and in exchange pashmina shawls and Chinese crockery and electronics are acquired. In 2016, the smuggling occurring here, said to be worth crores of rupees, was reportedly stopped by Indian authorities.


Locations

Tsaskur, alternately spelled as ''Tsoskur,'' is an Indian administered campsite located south west of Dumchele. Areas between Dumchele and Demchok such as Nagtsang, Nakung, and Lungma-Serding,
Skakjung __NOTOC__ Skakjung or Kokzhung is 45–kilometer long pasture land along the Indus River valley in Southern Ladakh. It is traditionally used by nomads of nearby villages such as Chushul and Nyoma as well as Rupshu. The Skakung pasture land can be ...
are China administered territories. Kegu Naro is a day's march from Dumchele. : "Until the mid-1980s, the boundary lay at Kegu Naro — a day-long march from Dumchele, where India had maintained a forward post till 1962."


Notes


References


Bibliography

* * ** Indian Report: ; ; ; ** Chinese report: ; ; ; * * * * * {{citation , last1=Moorcroft , first1=William , last2=Trebeck , first2=George , title=Travels in the Himalayan Provinces of Hindustan and the Punjab in Ladakh and Kashmir: In Peshawar, Kabul, Kunduz and Bokhara from 1819 to 1825, Volume 1 , url=https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.284643 , via=archive.org , year=2004 , orig-year=1841 , location=London , publisher=John Murray , isbn=978-81-206-0497-1 , ref={{sfnref, Moorcroft & Trebeck, Travels in the Himalayan Provinces, Vol. 1, 1841


External links


Lack of infra forcing people to migrate from frontier
The Tribune, 17 July 2019. Contains a photograph of the Dumchele village. Demchok sector