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Cilgerran Castle ( cy, Castell Cilgerran) is a 13th-century ruined castle located in
Cilgerran Cilgerran (previously Kilgerran or Cil-Garon) is both a village, a parish, and also a community, situated on the south bank of the River Teifi in Pembrokeshire, Wales. It was formerly an incorporated market town. Among Cilgerran's attractions a ...
, Pembrokeshire,
Wales Wales ( cy, Cymru ) is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It is bordered by England to the east, the Irish Sea to the north and west, the Celtic Sea to the south west and the Bristol Channel to the south. It had a population in ...
, near Cardigan. The first castle on the site was thought to have been built by
Gerald of Windsor Gerald de Windsor (1075 – 1135), ''alias'' Gerald FitzWalter, was an Anglo-Norman lord who was the first Castellan of Pembroke Castle in Pembrokeshire (formerly part of the Kingdom of Deheubarth). Son of the first Constable of Windsor Castle, ...
around 1110–1115, and it changed hands several times over the following century between English and Welsh forces. In the hands of
William Marshal, 2nd Earl of Pembroke William Marshal, 2nd Earl of Pembroke (French: ''Guillaume le Maréchal'') (11906 April 1231) was a medieval English nobleman and was one of Magna Carta sureties. He fought during the First Barons' War and was present at the Battle of Lincoln ( ...
, the construction of the stone castle began after 1223. After passing through successive families, it was left to ruin and eventually abandoned by 1400. The castle backs onto a cliff face, with the remaining ruins dating from the 13th century. It was most heavily fortified where it faces inland, and includes a pair of
drum towers The drum is a member of the percussion group of musical instruments. In the Hornbostel-Sachs classification system, it is a membranophone. Drums consist of at least one membrane, called a drumhead or drum skin, that is stretched over a she ...
, rather than a central keep, which remain standing. It passed into the hands of the
National Trust The National Trust, formally the National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, is a charity and membership organisation for heritage conservation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland. In Scotland, there is a separate and ...
in 1938. It is open to the public on payment of an entry fee but times vary.


Description

The castle sits on a rocky promontory above the
River Teifi , name_etymology = , image = File:Llyn Teifi - geograph.org.uk - 41773.jpg , image_size = , image_caption = Llyn Teifi, the source of the Teifi , map = , map_size = , map_caption ...
, with one side directly onto a cliff face. An earth and timber castle is believed to have existed prior to the current building, but was destroyed by Welsh forces. The existing masonry dates from around 13th century. The walls facing the cliff top were the least heavily fortified, with the defences concentrated on those that faced inland. These comprised two lines of defence, with an outer bailey and two
drum towers The drum is a member of the percussion group of musical instruments. In the Hornbostel-Sachs classification system, it is a membranophone. Drums consist of at least one membrane, called a drumhead or drum skin, that is stretched over a she ...
rather than a central keep as typically seen in other castles of this period. The
gatehouse A gatehouse is a type of fortified gateway, an entry control point building, enclosing or accompanying a gateway for a town, religious house, castle, manor house, or other fortification building of importance. Gatehouses are typically the mo ...
is located in the south east of the building, and only partly remains. A ditch around the outside of the castle was cut from the rock face, which is thought to have once been spanned by a pivoting bridge. Cilgerran Castle is the most northerly of all castles in Pembrokeshire. It is twinned with Cardigan Castle, located on the opposite bank of the river downstream. Oman (1926): p. 213 The castle is largely ruinous, though the two substantial towers remain. From the castle there are walks down to the River Teifi. The castle is a
National Trust The National Trust, formally the National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty, is a charity and membership organisation for heritage conservation in England, Wales and Northern Ireland. In Scotland, there is a separate and ...
property, in the guardianship of Cadw: Welsh Historic Monuments Executive Agency. It is open to the public under their auspices, and in 2015 it was the site of a re-enactment of the Battle of Agincourt to mark the 600th anniversary.


History

The initial Cilgerran Castle was built by
Gerald of Windsor Gerald de Windsor (1075 – 1135), ''alias'' Gerald FitzWalter, was an Anglo-Norman lord who was the first Castellan of Pembroke Castle in Pembrokeshire (formerly part of the Kingdom of Deheubarth). Son of the first Constable of Windsor Castle, ...
around 1110–1115, but was little more than a wooden palisade. This was replaced by a stone outer wall at some point prior to the attack by
Rhys ap Gruffydd Rhys ap Gruffydd, commonly known as The Lord Rhys, in Welsh ''Yr Arglwydd Rhys'' (c. 1132 – 28 April 1197) was the ruler of the Welsh kingdom of Deheubarth in south Wales from 1155 to 1197 and native Prince of Wales. It was believed that he ...
in 1165. Rhys had taken Cardigan Castle a matter of weeks before, and upon the capture of Cilgerran Castle, he destroyed it entirely. He began a reconstruction effort, using stone and
lime mortar Lime mortar or torching is composed of lime and an aggregate such as sand, mixed with water. The ancient Egyptians were the first to use lime mortars, which they used to plaster their temples. In addition, the Egyptians also incorporated various ...
. In 1204, it was taken back for the English by
William Marshal, 1st Earl of Pembroke William Marshal, 1st Earl of Pembroke (1146 or 1147 – 14 May 1219), also called William the Marshal (Norman French: ', French: '), was an Anglo-Norman soldier and statesman. He served five English kings— Henry II, his sons the "Young King" ...
, who drove out Rhy's son,
Maelgwn ap Rhys Maelgwn ap Rhys (c. 1170–1230) was prince of part of the kingdom of Deheubarth in south west Wales. Maelgwn was the son of Rhys ap Gruffydd (''The Lord Rhys'') by his wife Gwenllian ferch Madog, daughter of Madog ap Maredudd prince of Powys. He a ...
. Marshal set about making repairs, but these proved ineffective as it was taken once more in 1215 Llywelyn the Great after a single day's battle. It was recaptured by
William Marshal, 2nd Earl of Pembroke William Marshal, 2nd Earl of Pembroke (French: ''Guillaume le Maréchal'') (11906 April 1231) was a medieval English nobleman and was one of Magna Carta sureties. He fought during the First Barons' War and was present at the Battle of Lincoln ( ...
, in 1223. He began the rebuilding of the castle into its present form, which was later completed by the de Cantilupe family. The size of the stones used in the parts of the castle remaining from this period indicate that it was built at great haste. Cilgerran was not taken by Welsh forces after this period, although in 1258 when English forces were defeated nearby, the castle had to push back the forces of the Princes of
Deheubarth Deheubarth (; lit. "Right-hand Part", thus "the South") was a regional name for the realms of south Wales, particularly as opposed to Gwynedd (Latin: ''Venedotia''). It is now used as a shorthand for the various realms united under the House o ...
. Oman (1926): p. 214 Following the death of Anselm Marshal, 6th Earl of Pembroke, it passed via a co-heiress to the de Cantilupe family. It passed again in 1272 after end of that line, to the Hastings family. But Cilgerran Castle was allowed to go to ruin by 1387, and was thought to be deserted by 1400. But the property continued to be passed down through the
Earls of Pembroke Earl of Pembroke is a title in the Peerage of England that was first created in the 12th century by King Stephen of England. The title, which is associated with Pembroke, Pembrokeshire in West Wales, has been recreated ten times from its origin ...
into the time of
Jasper Tudor, Duke of Bedford Jasper Tudor, Duke of Bedford (November 143121/26 December 1495), was the uncle of King Henry VII of England and a leading architect of his nephew's successful accession to the throne in 1485. He was from the noble Tudor family of Penmynydd i ...
. In 1509,
Gruffudd Vychan Sir Gruffudd Vychan ( 1395 – 1447), also spelt in English sources as Griffith Vaughan, was a Welsh knight who supported the rebellion of Prince Owain Glyndŵr against the English, and captured the Lollard John Oldcastle, who was later immor ...
was named Steward of the Lordship of Cilgerran and Constable of Cilgerran Castle. It has been the subject of several paintings, including ''Kilgarran Castle on the Twyvey; Hazy Sunrise, previous to a Sultry Day'', ''Cilgerran Castle on the Teifi, Looking Upstream'', and ''View in Wales: Mountain Scene with Village and Castle – Evening'' each by J. M. W. Turner which are all in the national collection at the
Tate Tate is an institution that houses, in a network of four art galleries, the United Kingdom's national collection of British art, and international modern and contemporary art. It is not a government institution, but its main sponsor is the U ...
. The 19th Century saw continued decline of the castle, the dry ditch bailey being converted into the village pound and the curtain wall of the bailey falling due to slate quarrying in the area in 1863. In 1938, it was presented to the National Trust. File:Cilgerran Castle H1b.jpg File:Cilgerran Castle H3a.jpg File:Cilgerran Castle H5a.jpg File:CilgerranCastleH4a.jpg


Gallery

File:Kilgarran castle - on the river Teivy.jpeg, 'Kilgarran castle: on the river Teivy', 1844 by artist David Cox, 1783-1859 and engraver William Radclyffe, 1783-1855 File:Kilgarren Castle.jpeg, 'Kilgarren Castle', 1807 by J. (John) Hassell, 1767-1825 File:Killgaron Castle - on the Tivi, Cardiganshire, evening rain.jpeg, 'Killgaron Castle: on the Tivi, Cardiganshire, evening rain' ca 1845 by John Henry Robinson, 1796-1871 and George Childs, fl. 1826-1873 File:Cilgerran Castle.jpg, Anonymous painting c.1800-1820


Notes


References

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External links


Cilgerran Castle information at the National Trust

www.geograph.co.uk: photos of Cilgerran Castle and surrounding area
{{coord, 52, 3, 26, N, 4, 38, 3, W, region:GB_type:landmark, display=title Castles in Pembrokeshire National Trust properties in Wales Castle ruins in Wales Grade I listed castles in Wales Grade I listed buildings in Pembrokeshire Scheduled monuments in Pembrokeshire