Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure (1 June 1906 – 24 February 1999), was a notable Italian

fashion Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashion in ...

designer and couturier of the

post-war In Western usage, the phrase post-war era (or postwar era) usually refers to the time since the end of World War II. More broadly, a post-war period (or postwar period) is the interval immediately following the end of a war. A post-war period c ...

period based in

Milan Milan ( , , Lombard: ; it, Milano ) is a city in northern Italy, capital of Lombardy, and the second-most populous city proper in Italy after Rome. The city proper has a population of about 1.4 million, while its metropolitan city h ...

. Her clients were mainly connected to the

La Scala La Scala (, , ; abbreviation in Italian of the official name ) is a famous opera house in Milan, Italy. The theatre was inaugurated on 3 August 1778 and was originally known as the ' (New Royal-Ducal Theatre alla Scala). The premiere performan ...

opera, and she is known as the creator of the style for

Maria Callas Maria Callas . (born Sophie Cecilia Kalos; December 2, 1923 – September 16, 1977) was an American-born Greek soprano who was one of the most renowned and influential opera singers of the 20th century. Many critics praised her ''bel cant ...

, whom she first met in 1951 at a dinner party organized by Wally Toscanini. Bouyeure was a granddaughter of the

composer A composer is a person who writes music. The term is especially used to indicate composers of Western classical music, or those who are composers by occupation. Many composers are, or were, also skilled performers of music. Etymology and Defi ...

Giacomo Puccini Giacomo Puccini (Lucca, 22 December 1858Bruxelles, 29 November 1924) was an Italian composer known primarily for his operas. Regarded as the greatest and most successful proponent of Italian opera after Verdi, he was descended from a long li ...

Biography

Bouyeure was born in Milan on 1 June 1906. She studied at A. Manzoni linguistic school where she also learned music and singing. Bouyeure travelled to Paris many times and decided to learn fashion. After a few years apprenticeship she created a line of French-style underwear named "Domina" (the name was proposed by the poet Gabriele D'Annunzio who was a friend of the Puccini family). On 5 May 1936 she opened her atelier in

on via Senato, catering mostly to

opera singers. Her long-term cooperation with

started in 1954. Bouyeure designed a plain black evening cape in wool crepe for Callas that she wore for the 1970 opening of the

Teatro alla Scala La Scala (, , ; abbreviation in Italian of the official name ) is a famous opera house in Milan, Italy. The theatre was inaugurated on 3 August 1778 and was originally known as the ' (New Royal-Ducal Theatre alla Scala). The premiere performan ...

season in Milan, a paisley coat in 1971, and also a floor-length dress with silk satin collar which she wore in 1973 for the farewell concert at the

Royal Festival Hall The Royal Festival Hall is a 2,700-seat concert, dance and talks venue within Southbank Centre in London. It is situated on the South Bank of the River Thames, not far from Hungerford Bridge, in the London Borough of Lambeth. It is a Grade I l ...

in London. In 1967 Bouyeure worked with the Italian fashion photographer Johnny Moncada and in 1968 for the ''Linea Italiana'' magazine. Her atelier was located in

Via Monte Napoleone Via Monte Napoleone, also spelled Via Montenapoleone, is an upscale shopping street in Milan, Italy, Europe's most expensive street (2022) and the third most expensive street in the world . It is famous for its ready-to-wear fashion and jewelry sho ...

. Bouyeure died on 24 February 1999.

Personal life

The name Biki was given to Bouyeure as a child by her step grandfather

Puccini Giacomo Puccini (Lucca, 22 December 1858Bruxelles, 29 November 1924) was an Italian composer known primarily for his operas. Regarded as the greatest and most successful proponent of Italian opera after Verdi, he was descended from a long lin ...

, who called her Bicchi (Italian "biricchina" meaning naughty girl). She married art expert Robert Bouyeure in 1936. They had a daughter named Roberta, born in 1937.

References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Bouyeure, Elvira Leonardi 1906 births 1999 deaths Fashion designers from Milan Italian fashion designers Italian women fashion designers