Bertrand Duchaufour () is a French perfumer. He has had a prolific career, beginning in
Grasse
Grasse (; Provençal dialect, Provençal oc, Grassa in classical norm or in Mistralian norm ; traditional it, Grassa) is the only Subprefectures in France, subprefecture of the Alpes-Maritimes Departments of France, department in the Provence- ...
at Lautier Florasynth and continuing for a number of fragragrance firms as well as working independently and as the house perfumer for
L'Artisan Parfumeur
L'Artisan Parfumeur is a French niche perfume house owned by Puig (company), Puig company from Spain, which also owns British perfume house Penhaligon's.
History
L’Artisan Parfumeur was established in 1976 by Jean Laporte. In 1982, he left the ...
. He has drawn praise for
niche perfume Niche perfume is an alternative to mass perfume production. Niche is limited by the clientele and therefore with a limited sale range, thus the goal of niche houses is not to sell as much as possible.
These companies are generally smaller than the ...
creations as well as mainstream hits.
Career
Beginning his career in 1985,
Bertrand Duchaufour trained at the Lautier Florasynth group in Grasse, then spent 10 years at Créations Aromatiques, then
Symrise, working in their fine fragrance department.
His first signed fragrance came in 1995, creating Amber & Lavender for
Jo Malone
Joanne Lesley Malone CBE (born 5 November 1963) is a British perfumer and founder of the companies Jo Malone London and Jo Loves. Malone founded Jo Malone London in 1990 and later sold the company in 1999 to its current parent company Estee ...
.
In 2008, he became an independent perfumer, taking on work directly, including at
L'Artisan Parfumeur
L'Artisan Parfumeur is a French niche perfume house owned by Puig (company), Puig company from Spain, which also owns British perfume house Penhaligon's.
History
L’Artisan Parfumeur was established in 1976 by Jean Laporte. In 1982, he left the ...
as house perfumer.
In 2014, he joined fragrance firm TechnicoFlor, where he has been consulting for three years.
Fragrances and style
Duchaufour is a prolific creator, making fragrances for a variety of perfume houses, including
Penhaligon's
Penhaligon's is a British perfume house. It was founded in the late 1860s by William Henry Penhaligon, a Cornish barber who moved to London and who became Court Barber and Perfumer to Queen Victoria.
History
Penhaligon's started life as a barb ...
and
Acqua di Parma
Acqua di Parma is an Italian lifestyle and fashion company that produces fragrances, candles, bathrobes, and leather accessories. All of its ranges are exclusively made in Italy, and distributed in 43 countries.
History
The company's original ...
,
as well as fashion houses
Comme des Garcons,
Givenchy
Givenchy (, ) is a French luxury fashion and perfume house. It hosts the brand of haute couture and ready-to-wear clothing, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics of Parfums Givenchy. The house of Givenchy was founded in 1952 by designer Hubert de ...
and
Dior
Christian Dior SE (), commonly known as Dior (stylized DIOR), is a French Luxury goods, luxury fashion house controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH, the world's largest luxury group. Dior itself holds ...
.
[Can the daughter of a dictator come up smelling of roses?](_blank)
The Independent 15 October 2012 Many of his fragrances have received substantial critical praise. In 2008, ''
The New York Times
''The New York Times'' (''the Times'', ''NYT'', or the Gray Lady) is a daily newspaper based in New York City with a worldwide readership reported in 2020 to comprise a declining 840,000 paid print subscribers, and a growing 6 million paid ...
'' perfume critic
Chandler Burr
Chandler Burr is an American journalist, author, and museum curator.
Early life and education
Born in Chicago and raised in Washington, D.C., Burr graduated from Principia College in Elsah, Illinois. He began his journalism career in 1987 as a ...
wrote of Duchaufour's creation for
Eau d'Italie Paestum Rose: "Duchaufour is an expert in shadows (see his Dzongka, done for l'Artisan Parfumeur). He paints olfactory charcoals and grays and deep purples with the smells of smoke and worn wood, a living Old Master of scent, and Paestum Rose is not just perfectly calibrated on a technical level. It is better than that. It is a work of art. The perfume unfolds with a scented crepuscular darkness, a twilight that is an exact balance of disappearing sunlight and incipient evening." The fragrance smelled modern, Burr said, without resorting to "easy clichés" to accomplish this. Rather the scent reminded Burr of a
Caravaggio
Michelangelo Merisi (Michele Angelo Merigi or Amerighi) da Caravaggio, known as simply Caravaggio (, , ; 29 September 1571 – 18 July 1610), was an Italian painter active in Rome for most of his artistic life. During the final four years of hi ...
one of the Eau d'Italie owners admired. "Paestum Rose is a perfume that's rich and filled with meaning like the intimate opalescent blacks Caravaggio painted, instantly known and strangely unfamiliar. In this perfume we smell ancient beauty made thrillingly new."
Though Duchaufour's œuvre is widely varied, he is especially known for incense fragrances, like Timbuktu (2004) and Dzongkha (2006) for
L'Artisan Parfumeur
L'Artisan Parfumeur is a French niche perfume house owned by Puig (company), Puig company from Spain, which also owns British perfume house Penhaligon's.
History
L’Artisan Parfumeur was established in 1976 by Jean Laporte. In 1982, he left the ...
and Jubilation XXV for
Amouage
Amouage is an international luxury fragrance brand founded in 1983 in Oman and operated by the Oman Perfumery LLC, a subsidiary of the Omani SABCO Group.
History
The company was founded, at the request of Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said, in 19 ...
(2007).
His 2008 L'Artisan creation for perfume boutique
Aedes de Venustas was another entrant into this category, earning four stars in Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez's ''
Perfumes: The A-Z Guide''; writing of all four, Sanchez said Duchaufour's work with incense makes "austerity seem rich, as it does in Rembrandt's portraits of burghers, whose penitent black and white costumes are clearly cut of luxurious cloth."
In the same ''Guide'', Turin gave Timbuktu five stars, calling it “the first true masterpiece of what, by analogy with nouvelle cuisine, I would call nouvelle parfumerie” and Duchaufour one of its “chief exponents”, with
Jean-Claude Ellena
Jean-Claude Ellena (born 1947, Grasse, France) is a French perfumer and writer.
Career
At an early age, Ellena picked jasmine with his grandmother in Grasse to sell to perfumers.
Beginning with menial jobs, he became an apprentice at the f ...
. The ingredient
cypriol gave Timbuktu “a smoky note without a trace of oiliness or tar, the smell of crisply burned dry wood on a bonfire”, but, Turin notes, “no single raw material ever ‘made’ a fragrance, and
uchaufourshould take full credit for a masterly composition.”
In 2017, Duchaufour's 2002 fragrance Incense: Avignon for Comme des Garçons was included in an exhibit at
Somerset House
Somerset House is a large Neoclassical complex situated on the south side of the Strand in central London, overlooking the River Thames, just east of Waterloo Bridge. The Georgian era quadrangle was built on the site of a Tudor palace ("O ...
on developments in perfumery in the prior 20 years, in particular "perfumes that have changed the way we think." Co-curator Claire Catterall named it as one of the 10 most important
niche perfumes
Niche may refer to:
Science
*Developmental niche, a concept for understanding the cultural context of child development
*Ecological niche, a term describing the relational position of an organism's species
*Niche differentiation, in ecology, the ...
in the period, noting that scent, which uses frankincense, sandalwood and
Iso E Super to evoke a Catholic mass, is
Morrissey
Steven Patrick Morrissey (; born 22 May 1959), known professionally as Morrissey, is an English singer and songwriter. He came to prominence as the frontman and lyricist of rock band the Smiths, who were active from 1982 to 1987. Since then ...
's favorite perfume.
Controversy
In 2012 Duchaufour worked for
Gulnara Karimova
Gulnara Islamovna Karimova (Cyrillic Uzbek: ; russian: Гульнара Исламовна Каримова, ; born 8 July 1972) is the elder daughter of Islam Karimov, the president of Uzbekistan from 1991 to his death in 2016. She wielded cons ...
, daughter of
Uzbek dictator
Islam Karimov
Islam Abduganiyevich Karimov ( uz, Islom Abdugʻaniyevich Karimov / Ислом Абдуғаниевич Каримов, italics=no; russian: link=no, Ислам Абдуганиевич Каримов; 30 January 1938 – 2 September 2016) was t ...
. Duchaufour created her fragrances Victorious for men and Mysterieuse for women.
Asked why he would involve himself with the repressive regime, Duchaufour responded in writing to fragrance blog CaFleureBon: "I have been a little bit naive and just considered the good part of the project (money) and didn't realize what was behind."
Honors
In 2017, Duchaufour was awarded perfumer of the year by the Russian
FiFi Awards
The FiFi Awards are an annual event sponsored by The Fragrance Foundation which honor the fragrance industry's creative achievements. Known as the "Oscars of the fragrance industry", the awards ceremony was conceived by the former president of ...
.
Perfumes
Acqua di Parma
Acqua di Parma is an Italian lifestyle and fashion company that produces fragrances, candles, bathrobes, and leather accessories. All of its ranges are exclusively made in Italy, and distributed in 43 countries.
History
The company's original ...
* Cipresso di Toscana (2005)
* Colonia Assoluta (2003), with Jean-Claude Ellena
Alex Simone
* Encore un peu (2016)
* Après vous (2016)
* L'incitation (2016)
* Encore un peu absolu golden signature (2021)
* Après vous absolu golden signature (2021)
* L'incitation absolu golden signature (2021)
Comme des Garçons
Comme des Garçons (also known as CDG) is a Japanese fashion label based in Paris that was created and led by Rei Kawakubo. Its French flagship store is located in Paris. This label owns a world-wide store chain featuring various lines of prod ...
* Series 1, Leaves: Calamus (2000)
* Series 1, Leaves: Mint (2000)
* Series 2, Red: Harissa (2001)
* Series 2, Red: Sequoia (2001)
* Series 3, Incense: Avignon (2002)
* Series 3, Incense: Kyoto (2002)
* Series 5, Sherbet: Cinnamon (2003)
* Series 5, Sherbet: Peppermint (2003)
* Series 5, Sherbet: Rhubarb (2003)
* Comme des Garçons 2 Woman
Eau d'Italie
* Baume du Doge (2008)
*Paestum Rose (2008)
Extrait d'Atelier
* Maître Jardinier (2019)
Givenchy
Givenchy (, ) is a French luxury fashion and perfume house. It hosts the brand of haute couture and ready-to-wear clothing, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics of Parfums Givenchy. The house of Givenchy was founded in 1952 by designer Hubert de ...
* Amarige d'Amour (2002), with
Emilie Copperman
* Lucky Charms (2005)
Grandiflora
* Queen of the Night (2017) for
Grandiflora
* Boronia (2018) for Grandiflora
L'Artisan Parfumeur
L'Artisan Parfumeur is a French niche perfume house owned by Puig (company), Puig company from Spain, which also owns British perfume house Penhaligon's.
History
L’Artisan Parfumeur was established in 1976 by Jean Laporte. In 1982, he left the ...
* Mechant Loup (1997)
* Patchouli Patch (2002, with
Evelyne Boulanger)
* Piment Brulant (2002)
* Poivre Piquant (2002)
* Timbuktu (2004)
* Ambroisie Ararat (2005)
* Aedes de Venustas (2005 home fragrance, succeeded by a 2008 Eau de Parfum)
* Dzongkha (2006)
* Fleur de Liane (2008)
* Al Oudh (2009)
* Havana Vanille (2009)
* Nuit de Tubereuse (2010)
* Traversée du Bosphore (2010)
* Seville à l'aube (2012)
* Deliria (2013) (Triptyque I Explosion d'émotions)
*Skin on skin (2013) (Triptyque I Explosion d'émotions)
*Amour nocturne (2013) (Triptyque I Explosion d'émotions)
* Haute Voltige (2014) (Triptyque II Explosion d'émotions)
*Onde Sensuelle (2014) (Triptyque II Explosion d'émotions)
*Rappelle-toi (2014) (Triptyque II Explosion d'émotions)
* Noir Exquis (2015)
*Vanille Absolument
LAMBRE
* Son Secret (2012)
* Son Desir (2012)
Majda Bekkali
* Fusion Sacrée Clair (2012)
* Fusion Sacrée Obscur (2012)
Miller Harris
Miller Harris is a London-based luxury perfume brand founded by perfumer Lyn Harris in 2000. In 2012 Harris sold a stake in the company, with ''The Daily Telegraph'' later noting that Miller Harris had come "to a major player in the world of in ...
* Tender (2018)
* Blousy (2019)
Naomi Goodsir
* Or du Serail (2014)
Neela Vermeire Créations
* Trayee (2012)
* Mohur (2012), Mohur Extrait (2014)
* Bombay Bling (2012)
* Ashoka (2013)
* Pichola (2015)
* Rahele (2016)
* Niral (2018)
Penhaligon's
Penhaligon's is a British perfume house. It was founded in the late 1860s by William Henry Penhaligon, a Cornish barber who moved to London and who became Court Barber and Perfumer to Queen Victoria.
History
Penhaligon's started life as a barb ...
* Amaranthine (2009)
*Orange Blossom (2010)
*Sartorial (2010)
* Eau Sans Pareil (2011)
*Esprit du Roi (2011)
* Vaara (2013)
*Lothair (2014)
* Tralala (2014)
*Ostara (2015)
Phuong Dang
* Artist (2017) with
Mark Buxton
Pont des Arts
* A ce Soir (2018)
* A chaque instant (2018)
St Giles Fine Fragrance
* The Writer (2017)
* The Stylist (2017)
* The Mechanic (2017)
* The Actress (2017)
* The Tycoon (2017)
THEATRE des PARFUMS
* J`ATTIRE (2014)
* MONPLAISIR 1723 (2015)
* POÉSIE du CHAOS (2019)
* Lе VENT STELLAIRE (2019)
* Lа SOIF d`ÉTERNITÉ (2019)
Miscellaneous
* Amber & Lavender (1995), for Jo Malone
* Fahrenheit Fresh, for
Parfums Christian Dior
Parfums Christian Dior is the perfumery and cosmetics (makeup and skincare) line of the French fashion house, Christian Dior SE. However, the line belongs to the perfumes and cosmetics portfolio of the world's largest luxury group, the LVMH Group. ...
* Bazar Femme (2002), with
Emilie Copperman &
Jean-Claude Ellena
Jean-Claude Ellena (born 1947, Grasse, France) is a French perfumer and writer.
Career
At an early age, Ellena picked jasmine with his grandmother in Grasse to sell to perfumers.
Beginning with menial jobs, he became an apprentice at the f ...
, for
Christian Lacroix
Christian Marie Marc Lacroix (; born 16 May 1951) is a French fashion designer. The name may also refer to the company he founded.
Lacroix's designs combine luxury and insouciance. He prefers artisanal trades, fringe, bead, and embroidery. He's ...
* Flora Bella (2005), for
Lalique
Lalique is a French glassmaker, founded by renowned glassmaker and jeweller René Lalique in 1888. Lalique is best known for producing glass art, including perfume bottles, vases, and hood ornaments during the early twentieth century. Following t ...
* Jubilation XXV (2007), for
Amouage
Amouage is an international luxury fragrance brand founded in 1983 in Oman and operated by the Oman Perfumery LLC, a subsidiary of the Omani SABCO Group.
History
The company was founded, at the request of Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said, in 19 ...
* Cauliflower (2009)
*Enchanted Forest (2012) for The Vagabond Prince
*I Miss Violet (2015) for
The Different Company
*Hidden (2018) for Forage
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Duchaufour, Bertrand
French perfumers
Living people
Year of birth missing (living people)