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The Amur (russian: река́ Аму́р, ), or Heilong Jiang (, "Black Dragon River", ), is the world's tenth longest river, forming the border between the Russian Far East and Northeastern China (
Inner Manchuria Interior may refer to: Arts and media * Interior (Degas), ''Interior'' (Degas) (also known as ''The Rape''), painting by Edgar Degas * Interior (play), ''Interior'' (play), 1895 play by Belgian playwright Maurice Maeterlinck * The Interior (novel ...
). The Amur proper is long, and has a drainage basin of .Амур (река в Азии)
Great Soviet Encyclopedia
Including its source river Argun, it is long. The largest fish species in the Amur is the
kaluga Kaluga ( rus, Калу́га, p=kɐˈɫuɡə), a city and the administrative center of Kaluga Oblast in Russia, stands on the Oka River southwest of Moscow. Population: Kaluga's most famous resident, the space travel pioneer Konstantin Tsiol ...
, attaining a length as great as . The river basin is home to a variety of large predatory fish such as northern snakehead, Amur pike, taimen, Amur catfish, predatory carp and yellowcheek, as well as the northernmost populations of the Amur softshell turtle and Indian lotus.


Name

Historically, it was common to refer to a river simply as "water". There are similar words for "water" or "river" in a number of Asiatic languages: ''e.g.'' 물 ''mul'' ("water") in Korean, ''muren'' or ''mörön'' ("river") in Mongolian, and 水 ''midu'' > ''mizu'' ("water") in Japanese. The name "Amur" may have evolved from a root word for water, coupled with a size modifier for "Big Water". Its ancient Chinese names were ''Yushui'', ''Wanshui'' and ''Heishui'', formed from variants to ''shui'', meaning "water".
The fishes of the Amur River:updated check-list and zoogeography
''
The modern Chinese name for the river, ''Heilong Jiang'' means " Black Dragon River", while the Manchurian name ''Sahaliyan Ula'', the Mongolian names " Amar mörön " (Cyrillic: Амар мөрөн) originates from the name " Amar " meaning to rest and ''Khar mörön'' (Cyrillic: Хар мөрөн) mean Black River.


Course

The river rises in the hills in the western part of Northeast China at the confluence of its two major affluents, the Shilka and the Argun (or Ergune), at an elevation of . It flows east forming the border between China and Russia, and slowly makes a great arc to the southeast for about , receiving many tributaries and passing many small towns. At Huma, it is joined by a major tributary, the Huma He. Afterwards it continues to flow south until, between the cities of Blagoveshchensk in Russia and Heihe in China, it widens significantly as it is joined by one of its most important tributaries the
Zeya Zeya may refer to: People *Aung Zeya, full name of Alaungpaya, king of Burma in 1752–1760 * Zeya (Burmese actor) (1916–1996), Burmese actor and director *Zeya Thaw (born 1981), alternative spelling of the name of Zayar Thaw, Burmese politici ...
. The Amur arcs to the east and turns southeast again at the confluence with the Bureya, then does not receive another significant tributary for nearly before its confluence with its largest tributary, the Songhua, at Tongjiang. At the confluence with the Songhua the river turns northeast, now flowing towards
Khabarovsk Khabarovsk ( rus, Хабaровск, a=Хабаровск.ogg, r=Habárovsk, p=xɐˈbarəfsk) is the largest types of inhabited localities in Russia, city and the administrative centre of Khabarovsk Krai, Russia,Law #109 located from the China ...
, where it joins the Ussuri and ceases to define the Russia–China border. Now the river spreads out dramatically into a braided character, flowing north-northeast through a wide valley in eastern Russia, passing
Amursk Amursk (russian: Аму́рск) is a town in Khabarovsk Krai, Russia, located on the left bank of the Amur River south of Komsomolsk-on-Amur. Population: History It was founded as an urban-type settlement on June 19, 1958, in connecti ...
and
Komsomolsk-on-Amur Komsomolsk-on-Amur ( rus, Комсомольск-на-Амуре, r=Komsomolsk-na-Amure, p=kəmsɐˈmolʲsk nɐɐˈmurʲə) is a types of inhabited localities in Russia, city in Khabarovsk Krai, Russia, located on the west bank of the Amur Rive ...
. The valley narrows after about and the river again flows north onto plains at the confluence with the
Amgun The Amgun () is a river in Khabarovsk Krai, Russia that flows northeast and joins the river Amur from the left, 146 km upstream from its outflow into sea. The length of the river is . The area of its basin is . The Amgun is formed by the co ...
. Shortly after, the Amur turns sharply east and into an estuary at Nikolayevsk-on-Amur, about downstream of which it flows into the
Strait of Tartary Strait of Tartary or Gulf of Tartary (russian: Татарский пролив; ; ja, 間宮海峡, Mamiya kaikyō, Mamiya Strait; ko, 타타르 해협) is a strait in the Pacific Ocean dividing the Russian island of Sakhalin from mainland Asia ...
. During years with heavy precipitation, the Amur river system is connected with the
Kherlen Kherlen River (also known as Kern or Kerülen; ; ) is a 1,254 km river in Mongolia and China. Course The river originates in the south slopes of the Khentii mountains, near the Burkhan Khaldun mountain in the Khan Khentii Strictly Protecte ...
river. The normally exit−less endorheic lake Hulun Lake, into which
Kherlen Kherlen River (also known as Kern or Kerülen; ; ) is a 1,254 km river in Mongolia and China. Course The river originates in the south slopes of the Khentii mountains, near the Burkhan Khaldun mountain in the Khan Khentii Strictly Protecte ...
flows, will overflow at its northern shore through the
arroyo Arroyo often refers to: * Arroyo (creek), an intermittently dry creek Arroyo may also refer to: People * Arroyo (surname) Places United States ;California * Arroyo Burro Beach, a public beach park in Santa Barbara County, California * Arroyo ...
of Mutnaya Protoka, and the water will meet the Argun River (Ergune) after about 30 kilometres (19 mi). The Amur Basin of the Kherlen River−Argun/Ergune River−Amur River system has a total length of 5,052 kilometres (3,139 mi) to its river mouth on the Sea of Japan.


Tributaries

The largest tributaries of the Amur are, from source to mouth: * Argun (right) * Shilka (left) * Amazar (left) * Oldoy (left) * Huma (right) *
Zeya Zeya may refer to: People *Aung Zeya, full name of Alaungpaya, king of Burma in 1752–1760 * Zeya (Burmese actor) (1916–1996), Burmese actor and director *Zeya Thaw (born 1981), alternative spelling of the name of Zayar Thaw, Burmese politici ...
(left) * Bureya (left) * Songhua (right) *
Bira Bira may refer to: Places Greece *Boura (Achaea) (alternatively spelled Bira or Bura), an ancient city of Achaea, Greece India * Bira, North 24 Parganas, a census town in West Bengal, India ** Bira railway station Lebanon *Bireh, Akkar * Al-Bireh ...
(left) * Ussuri (right) * Tunguska (left) * Anyuy (right) * Gur (right) * Gorin (left) *
Amgun The Amgun () is a river in Khabarovsk Krai, Russia that flows northeast and joins the river Amur from the left, 146 km upstream from its outflow into sea. The length of the river is . The area of its basin is . The Amgun is formed by the co ...
(left) There are also numerous lakes in the floodplain of the Amur. Some of the largest ones are Bolon,
Khummi Lake Khummi (), also known as Khomi (Хоми), is a large freshwater lake in Komsomolsky District, Khabarovsk Krai, Russia. It has an area of and a maximum depth of . The lake is part of the Amur river basin and lies near Komsomolsk-on-Amur, ...
and Udyl.


History and context

Many historical references distinguish two geopolitical entities in the area of the Amur: Outer Manchuria ( Russian Manchuria) and
Inner Manchuria Interior may refer to: Arts and media * Interior (Degas), ''Interior'' (Degas) (also known as ''The Rape''), painting by Edgar Degas * Interior (play), ''Interior'' (play), 1895 play by Belgian playwright Maurice Maeterlinck * The Interior (novel ...
(northeast China). The Chinese province of Heilongjiang on the south bank of the river takes its name from the river, as does the Russian Amur Oblast on the north bank. The native
Manchu people The Manchus (; ) are a Tungusic East Asian ethnic group native to Manchuria in Northeast Asia. They are an officially recognized ethnic minority in China and the people from whom Manchuria derives its name. The Later Jin (1616–1636) and Q ...
and their
Qing Empire The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing,, was a Manchu-led imperial dynasty of China and the last orthodox dynasty in Chinese history. It emerged from the Later Jin dynasty founded by the Jianzhou Jurchens, a Tungusic-speak ...
of China, who regarded this river as sacred, use the name ''Sahaliyan Ula'' (Black River). The Amur is an important symbol of, and geopolitical factor in, Chinese–Russian relations. The Amur became especially prominent in the period of the Sino–Soviet political split of 1956–1966. For many centuries, inhabitants of the Amur Valley comprised the
Tungusic Tungusic may refer to: *The Tungusic languages *The Tungusic peoples, people who speak a Tungusic language {{dab ...
( Evenki, Solon, Ducher, Jurchen, Nanai, Ulch), Mongol ( Daur) people, some
Ainu Ainu or Aynu may refer to: *Ainu people, an East Asian ethnic group of Japan and the Russian Far East *Ainu languages, a family of languages **Ainu language of Hokkaido **Kuril Ainu language, extinct language of the Kuril Islands **Sakhalin Ainu la ...
and, near its mouth, the Nivkhs. For many of these groups, fishing in the Amur and its tributaries was the main source of their livelihood. Until the 17th century these peoples were not known to Europeans, and little known to the Han Chinese, who sometimes collectively described them as the Wild Jurchens. The Chinese-language term ''Yúpí Dázi'' 魚皮韃子 ("Fish-skin Tatars") came to apply to the Nanais and related groups as well, owing to their traditional clothes made of fish skins. The Mongols, ruling the region as the Yuan dynasty, established a tenuous military presence on the lower Amur in the 13th and 14th centuries; ruins of a Yuan-era temple have been excavated near the village of Tyr.Головачев В. Ц. (V. Ts. Golovachev)
«Тырские стелы и храм „Юн Нин“ в свете китайско-чжурчжэньских отношений XIV—XV вв.»
(The Tyr Stelae and the Yongning Temple viewed in the context of Sino-Jurchen relations of the 14-15th centuries) ''Этно-Журнал'', 2008-11-14.
During the reigns of the
Yongle Yongle () (23 January 1403 – 19 January 1425) was the era name of the Yongle Emperor, the third emperor of the Ming dynasty of China. Comparison table Other eras contemporaneous with Yongle * Vietnam ** ''Thiệu Thành'' (紹成, 1401–1 ...
and Xuande Emperors (early-15th century), the Ming dynasty reached the Amur in their drive to establish control over the lands adjacent to the Ming Empire to the northeast, which would later become known as Manchuria. Expeditions headed by the eunuch Yishiha reached Tyr several times between 1411 and the early 1430s, re-building (twice) the Yongning Temple and obtaining at least the nominal allegiance of the lower Amur's tribes to the Ming government.L. Carrington Godrich, Chaoying Fang (editors), "Dictionary of Ming Biography, 1368–1644". Volume I (A-L). Columbia University Press, 1976. Shih-Shan Henry Tsai, "Perpetual Happiness: The Ming Emperor Yongle". Published by University of Washington Press, 2002.
Partial text
on Google Books. pp. 158-159.
Some sources report also a Chinese presence during the same period on the middle Amur – a fort existed at Aigun for about 20 years during the Yongle era on the left (northwestern) shore of the Amur downstream from the mouth of the Zeya River. This Ming Dynasty Aigun was located on the opposite bank to the later Aigun that was later relocated during the Qing Dynasty. Numerous later editions are available as well, including on
on Google Books
. Du Halde refers to the Yongle-era fort, the predecessor of Aigun, as ''Aykom''. There seem to be few, if any, mentions of this project in other available literature.
In any event, the Ming presence on the Amur was as short-lived as it was tenuous; soon after the end of the Yongle era, the Ming dynasty's frontiers retreated to southern Manchuria. Chinese cultural and religious influence such as Chinese New Year, the "Chinese god", Chinese motifs like the dragon, spirals, scrolls, and material goods like agriculture, husbandry, heating, iron cooking-pots, silk, and cotton spread among Amur natives such as the Udeghes, Ulchis, and Nanais. Russian
Cossack The Cossacks , es, cosaco , et, Kasakad, cazacii , fi, Kasakat, cazacii , french: cosaques , hu, kozákok, cazacii , it, cosacchi , orv, коза́ки, pl, Kozacy , pt, cossacos , ro, cazaci , russian: казаки́ or ...
expeditions led by Vassili Poyarkov and Yerofey Khabarov explored the Amur and its tributaries in 1643–44 and 1649–51, respectively. The Cossacks established the fort of Albazin on the upper Amur, at the site of the former capital of the
Solons The Solon people () are a subgroup of the Ewenki (Evenk) people of northeastern Asia. They live in China's Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region and Heilongjiang Province, and constitute the majority of China's Ewenki. Terminology and classification T ...
. At the time, the Manchus were busy with conquering China; but a few decades later, during the Kangxi era of 1661–1722, they turned their attention to their north-Manchurian backyard. Aigun was re-established near the supposed Ming site in about 1683–84, and a military expeditions went upstream to dislodge the Russians, whose Albazin establishment deprived the Manchu rulers of the tribute of
sable The sable (''Martes zibellina'') is a species of marten, a small omnivorous mammal primarily inhabiting the forest environments of Russia, from the Ural Mountains throughout Siberia, and northern Mongolia. Its habitat also borders eastern Kaza ...
pelts that the Solons and Daurs of the area would supply otherwise. Albazin fell during a short military campaign in 1685. The Treaty of Nerchinsk, concluded in 1689, marked the end of the hostilities: it left the entire Amur valley, from the convergence of the Shilka and the Ergune downstream, in Chinese hands. Fedor Soimonov was sent to map the then little explored area of the Amur in 1757. He mapped the Shilka, which was partly in Chinese territory, but was turned back when he reached its confluence with the Argun. The Russian proselytization of Orthodox Christianity to the indigenous peoples along the Amur was viewed as a threat by the Qing. The Amur region remained a relative backwater of the Qing Empire for the next century and a half, with Aigun being practically the only major town on the river. Russians re-appeared on the river in the mid-19th century, forcing the Manchus to yield all lands north of the river to the Russian Empire by the Treaty of Aigun (1858). Lands east of the Ussuri and the lower Amur were acquired by Russia as well, by the Convention of Peking (1860).


Wildlife

It is believed there are at least 123 species of fish from 23 families inhabiting the Amur. The majority are of the '' Gobioninae'' subfamily of '' Cypriniformes'', followed in number by Salmonidae. Several of the species are endemic. ''
Pseudaspius ''Pseudaspius leptocephalus'', the Redfin, is a species of cyprinid fish found in eastern Asia where it occurs in the countries of Russia, Mongolia Mongolia; Mongolian script: , , ; lit. "Mongol Nation" or "State of Mongolia" () is a la ...
'' and '' Mesocottus'' are monotypic genera found only in the Amur and some nearby coastal rivers. Four species of the
Acipenseridae Sturgeon is the common name for the 27 species of fish belonging to the family Acipenseridae. The earliest sturgeon fossils date to the Late Cretaceous, and are descended from other, earlier acipenseriform fish, which date back to the Early ...
family can be found: the
kaluga Kaluga ( rus, Калу́га, p=kɐˈɫuɡə), a city and the administrative center of Kaluga Oblast in Russia, stands on the Oka River southwest of Moscow. Population: Kaluga's most famous resident, the space travel pioneer Konstantin Tsiol ...
, Amur sturgeon,
Sakhalin sturgeon The Sakhalin sturgeon (''Acipenser mikadoi'') is a species of fish in the family Acipenseridae. It is found in Japan and Russia Russia (, , ), or the Russian Federation, is a transcontinental country spanning Eastern Europe and North ...
and sterlet. The Kaluga and Amur sturgeon are endemic. The sterlet was introduced from the Ob in the 1950s.


Direction

Flowing across northeast Asia for over (including its two tributaries), from the mountains of northeastern China to the
Sea of Okhotsk The Sea of Okhotsk ( rus, Охо́тское мо́ре, Ohótskoye móre ; ja, オホーツク海, Ohōtsuku-kai) is a marginal sea of the western Pacific Ocean. It is located between Russia's Kamchatka Peninsula on the east, the Kuril Islands ...
(near
Nikolayevsk-na-Amure Nikolayevsk-on-Amur (russian: Никола́евск-на-Аму́ре, translit=Nikoláyevsk-na-Amúrye) is a town in Khabarovsk Krai, Russia located on the Amur River close to its liman in the Pacific Ocean. Population: Geography The town ...
), it drains a remarkable watershed that includes diverse landscapes of
desert A desert is a barren area of landscape where little precipitation occurs and, consequently, living conditions are hostile for plant and animal life. The lack of vegetation exposes the unprotected surface of the ground to denudation. About on ...
,
steppe In physical geography, a steppe () is an ecoregion characterized by grassland plains without trees apart from those near rivers and lakes. Steppe biomes may include: * the montane grasslands and shrublands biome * the temperate grasslands, ...
, tundra, and taiga, eventually emptying into the Pacific Ocean through the Strait of Tartary, where the mouth of the river faces the northern end of the island of Sakhalin. The Amur has always been closely associated with the island of Sakhalin at its mouth, and most names for the island, even in the languages of the indigenous peoples of the region, are derived from the name of the river: "Sakhalin" derives from a
Tungusic Tungusic may refer to: *The Tungusic languages *The Tungusic peoples, people who speak a Tungusic language {{dab ...
dialectal form cognate with Manchu ''sahaliyan'' ("black", as in ''sahaliyan ula'', "Black River"), while Ainu and Japanese "Karaputo" or " Karafuto" is derived from the
Ainu Ainu or Aynu may refer to: *Ainu people, an East Asian ethnic group of Japan and the Russian Far East *Ainu languages, a family of languages **Ainu language of Hokkaido **Kuril Ainu language, extinct language of the Kuril Islands **Sakhalin Ainu la ...
name of the Amur or its mouth.
Anton Chekhov Anton Pavlovich Chekhov (; 29 January 1860 Old Style date 17 January. – 15 July 1904 Old Style date 2 July.) was a Russian playwright and short-story writer who is considered to be one of the greatest writers of all time. His career ...
vividly described the Amur in writings about his journey to Sakhalin Island in 1890. The average annual discharge varies from (1980) to (1957), leading to an average or per year. The maximum runoff measured occurred in Oct 1951 with whereas the minimum discharge was recorded in March 1946 with a mere .


Bridges and tunnels

The first permanent bridge across the Amur, the Khabarovsk Bridge with an overall length of , was completed in 1916, allowing the trains on the Trans-Siberian Railway to cross the river year-round without using ferries or rail tracks on top of the river ice. In 1941 a railway tunnel was added as well. Later, a combined road and rail bridge over the Amur at
Komsomolsk-on-Amur Komsomolsk-on-Amur ( rus, Комсомольск-на-Амуре, r=Komsomolsk-na-Amure, p=kəmsɐˈmolʲsk nɐɐˈmurʲə) is a types of inhabited localities in Russia, city in Khabarovsk Krai, Russia, located on the west bank of the Amur Rive ...
(1975; 1400 m) and the road and rail Khabarovsk Bridge (1999; 3890 m) were constructed. The
Tongjiang-Nizhneleninskoye railway bridge Tongjiang-Nizhneleninskoye railway bridge (Amur River Bridge) is an international Sino-Russian railroad bridge linking Nizhneleninskoye (in Russian: Нижнеленинское) in the Jewish Autonomous Oblast with Tongjiang (in Chinese: 同江 ...
was proposed in 2007 by Valery Solomonovich Gurevich, the vice-chairman of the Jewish Autonomous Oblast in Russia. The railway bridge over the Amur will connect Tongjiang with
Nizhneleninskoye Nizhneleninskoye (russian: Нижнеле́нинское) is a rural locality (a '' selo'') in Leninsky District of the Jewish Autonomous Oblast. Located on the Amur River, Nizhneleninskoye is the location for the Tongjiang-Nizhneleninskoye rail ...
, a village in the Jewish Autonomous Oblast. The Chinese portion of the bridge was finished in July 2016. In December 2016, work began on the Russian portion of the bridge. Completion of structural link between the two sides of the bridge was completed in March 2019. Opening to rail traffic has been repeatedly delayed, with the December 2019 estimate being "the end of 2020", and then 3rd quarter of 2021.


See also


References


Further reading

* also * * * * * McAleavy, Henry. "China and the Amur Provinces" ''History Today'' (June 1964) 14#6 pp 381–390. * * *


External links


Amur-Heilong River Basin Information Center
- maps, GIS data, environmental data
Information and a map of the Amur’s watershed
{{Authority control River Rivers of China Amu Border rivers China–Russia border International rivers of Asia Geography of Northeast Asia Geography of Northeast China Rivers of Inner Mongolia Rivers of Khabarovsk Krai Rivers of Heilongjiang Rivers of Amur Oblast Rivers of Zabaykalsky Krai Rivers of Jewish Autonomous Oblast