Muhammad Ali Sadpara (; – )
was a
Pakistani high-altitude
mountaineer
Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, an ...
. He was part of the team (which included
Italian
Italian(s) may refer to:
* Anything of, from, or related to the people of Italy over the centuries
** Italians, an ethnic group or simply a citizen of the Italian Republic or Italian Kingdom
** Italian language, a Romance language
*** Regional Ita ...
alpinist
Simone Moro
Simone Moro (born 27 October 1967 in Bergamo) is an Italian alpinist known for having made first winter ascents of four of the fourteen eight-thousanders: Shishapangma in 2005, Makalu in 2009, Gasherbrum II in 2011, and Nanga Parbat in 2016. H ...
and
Basque
Basque may refer to:
* Basques, an ethnic group of Spain and France
* Basque language, their language
Places
* Basque Country (greater region), the homeland of the Basque people with parts in both Spain and France
* Basque Country (autonomous co ...
alpinist Alex Txikon) that successfully completed the first winter ascent to the
summit of
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat ( ur, ) (; ), known locally as Diamer () which means “king of the mountains”, is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth, its summit at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in ...
in 2016.
Throughout his career, Sadpara successfully climbed a total of eight
eight-thousanders, four of which he had ascended in a single calendar year.
Sadpara, along with his 21-year-old son Sajid (who had also climbed
K2 in 2019), teamed up with
Icelandic mountaineer
John Snorri Sigurjónsson
John Snorri Sigurjónsson (20 June 1973 – 5 February 2021) was an Icelandic high-altitude mountaineer. In May 2017, he became the first Icelander to summit Lhotse in the Himalayas, which is 8,516 meters high and the fourth highest mountain in ...
and
Chilean mountaineer
Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto
Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto (born February 9, 1987 – February 5, 2021) was a Chilean architect and mountaineer.
Biography
In 2012, he graduated as an architect from the Diego Portales University and later devoted himself to taking mountaineerin ...
for a joint ascent of K2, and left the highest camp on the evening of 4 February 2021. Sajid was later forced to descend due to an
oxygen regulator malfunction, leaving the other members of the team at the
K2 Bottleneck, close to the summit. Sadpara, Sigurjónsson, and Prieto continued their ascent to K2's summit, but did not return by night as planned, and were declared missing on 5 February 2021. A rescue mission with two
Pakistan Army helicopters was organized on 6 February 2021 to search for the team.
On 18 February 2021, Pakistani authorities announced that the three men were officially presumed dead, but the search for their remains would continue;
Sadpara's family also declared him as presumably dead on the same day.
On 26 July 2021, three bodies believed to be of the missing mountaineers were found on the slopes above Camp 4. Sadpara's body was found around below the K2 Bottleneck. The bodies were found by a Madison Mountaineering Sherpa Team that was fixing ropes above the camp.
Early life
Sadpara was born on 2 February 1976 in the village of
Sadpara, located near
Skardu
, nickname =
, motto =
, image_skyline =
, map_caption =
, pushpin_map = Gilgit Baltistan#Pakistan
, pushpin_label_position ...
in
Gilgit−Baltistan,
Pakistan
Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 243 million people, and has the world's second-lar ...
. He was the youngest of eleven children, and eight of his siblings did not survive childhood. He married his wife, Fatima, when he was 19 and had his first son, Sajid, shortly afterwards; he had a total of three children.
He completed his
FA from a
government
A government is the system or group of people governing an organized community, generally a state.
In the case of its broad associative definition, government normally consists of legislature, executive, and judiciary. Government is ...
college in Skardu
and was a member of his college football team. He began his career as a
high-altitude porter, serving as an assistant in mountain-climbing expeditions.
Like most other porters, Sadpara traversed the rugged
Baltoro Glacier
__NOTOC__
The Baltoro Glacier ( zh, 巴爾托洛冰川, ), at in length, is one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions.The Fedchenko Glacier in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan is 77 km long, the Siachen Glacier which lies sou ...
in flip-flops and castoff gear.
Mountaineering experience
![Ali Sadpara on the summit of K2](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/Ali_Sadpara_on_the_summit_of_K2.jpg)
Sadpara had successfully climbed eight of the 14
eight-thousanders on
Earth
Earth is the third planet from the Sun and the only astronomical object known to harbor life. While large volumes of water can be found throughout the Solar System, only Earth sustains liquid surface water. About 71% of Earth's surfa ...
. His first climb was
Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II ( ur, ; ); surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan ...
, located in the
Karakoram range.
In 2015, Sadpara's team attempted to scale
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat ( ur, ) (; ), known locally as Diamer () which means “king of the mountains”, is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth, its summit at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in ...
during wintertime and were unsuccessful; the team attempted another winter ascent in 2016 and successfully summited its peak, resulting in the first-ever winter ascent of the mountain. Sadpara had successfully ascended Nanga Parbat four times in his
mountaineering career. In January 2018, Sadpara teamed up with ,
a
Basque
Basque may refer to:
* Basques, an ethnic group of Spain and France
* Basque language, their language
Places
* Basque Country (greater region), the homeland of the Basque people with parts in both Spain and France
* Basque Country (autonomous co ...
mountaineer, and unsuccessfully attempted to summit
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (; Tibetic languages, Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is List of highest mountains on Earth, Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border ru ...
in
Nepal
Nepal (; ne, :ne:नेपाल, नेपाल ), formerly the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal ( ne,
सङ्घीय लोकतान्त्रिक गणतन्त्र नेपाल ), is a landlocked country in S ...
during winter without any
supplemental oxygen
Oxygen therapy, also known as supplemental oxygen, is the use of oxygen as medical treatment. Acute indications for therapy include hypoxemia (low blood oxygen levels), carbon monoxide toxicity and cluster headache. It may also be prophylactical ...
.
In June 2018, he was enlisted by
French speed climber to undertake a five-year program known as "Beyond Mount Everest". They planned to summit Nanga Parbat,
K2 and Mount Everest in 2019, 2021, and 2022, respectively.
Tributes
*Ali Sadpara Climbing Wall at
Qayyum Stadium
The Qayyum Stadium also known as Peshawar Sport Complex is located in Peshawar, the capital of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province in Pakistan. It is the biggest sports complex in Peshawar and Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. The sport complex has facilities for all ...
, Peshawar.
*U.S. based NGO
Paani Project built a well in honor of Sadpara.
*Pakistan International Airlines inaugurated air safari in name of Ali Sadpara.
*A park in Karachi was made in honour of Sadpara.
See also
*
List of solved missing person cases
Lists of solved missing person cases include:
* List of solved missing person cases: pre-2000
* List of solved missing person cases: post-2000
See also
* List of kidnappings
* List of murder convictions without a body
* List of people who di ...
*
List of unsolved deaths
This list of unsolved deaths includes well-known cases where:
* The cause of death could not be officially determined.
* The person's identity could not be established after they were found dead.
* The cause is known, but the manner of death (homi ...
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Sadpara, Ali
1976 births
2020s missing person cases
2021 deaths
Balti people
Formerly missing people
Missing person cases in Pakistan
Mountaineering deaths on K2
Pakistani summiters of K2
Pakistani mountain climbers
People from Gilgit-Baltistan
People from Skardu District
Unsolved deaths