2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
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The 2019
IFSC Climbing World Cup The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The number of competit ...
was held in 12 locations.
Bouldering Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help sec ...
,
lead Lead is a chemical element with the symbol Pb (from the Latin ) and atomic number 82. It is a heavy metal that is denser than most common materials. Lead is soft and malleable, and also has a relatively low melting point. When freshly cu ...
and
speed In everyday use and in kinematics, the speed (commonly referred to as ''v'') of an object is the magnitude of the change of its position over time or the magnitude of the change of its position per unit of time; it is thus a scalar quanti ...
competitions were each held in 6 locations. The season began on 5 April in
Meiringen Meiringen () is a municipality in the Interlaken-Oberhasli administrative district in the canton of Bern in Switzerland. Besides the village of Meiringen, the municipality includes the settlements of Balm, Brünigen, Eisenbolgen, Hausen, Prasti, ...
, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 27 October in
Inzai file:Inzai city hall.JPG, 260px, Inzai City Hall is a Cities of Japan, city located in Chiba Prefecture, Japan. , the city had an estimated population of 105,463 in 42,388 households and a population density of 850 persons per km². The total are ...
, Japan, with the last lead climbing competition in the season. The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon
points Point or points may refer to: Places * Point, Lewis, a peninsula in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland * Point, Texas, a city in Rains County, Texas, United States * Point, the NE tip and a ferry terminal of Lismore, Inner Hebrides, Scotland * Point ...
, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.


Olympic qualification

For the
Tokyo 2020 Olympics The , officially the and also known as , was an international multi-sport event held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some preliminary events that began on 21 July. Tokyo was selected as the host city during the 1 ...
athletes can qualify through either the IFSC Combined World Championships, the Olympic Qualifying Event or the Continental Championships. The Olympic Qualifying Event is an invitation only event open to the 22 highest ranked climbers on the World Cup circuit who haven't already qualified.


Highlights of the season

In bouldering, at the World Cup in
Moscow Moscow ( , US chiefly ; rus, links=no, Москва, r=Moskva, p=mɐskˈva, a=Москва.ogg) is the capital and largest city of Russia. The city stands on the Moskva River in Central Russia, with a population estimated at 13.0 million ...
,
Janja Garnbret Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...
of Slovenia flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win. At the World Cup in
Vail Vail is a home rule municipality in Eagle County, Colorado, United States. The population of the town was 4,835 in 2020. Home to Vail Ski Resort, the largest ski mountain in Colorado, the town is known for its hotels, dining, and for the numero ...
, Garnbret won her sixth consecutive gold medal and became the first climber ever to make a clean sweep of Bouldering World Cup season by winning six out of six events held this year. Moreover, she also became the first female climber to win overall World Cup season titles in lead (2016, 2017, 2018) and bouldering (2019).
Ai Mori is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and the disciplines of competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. At the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, she became the youngest Japanese athle ...
of Japan, in her first year of open eligibility, made her the World Cup debut in
Meiringen Meiringen () is a municipality in the Interlaken-Oberhasli administrative district in the canton of Bern in Switzerland. Besides the village of Meiringen, the municipality includes the settlements of Balm, Brünigen, Eisenbolgen, Hausen, Prasti, ...
, then won her first medal (bronze) at the World Cup in Wujiang, China. In speed, at the World Cup in
Chongqing Chongqing ( or ; ; Sichuanese dialects, Sichuanese pronunciation: , Standard Mandarin pronunciation: ), Postal Romanization, alternately romanized as Chungking (), is a Direct-administered municipalities of China, municipality in Southwes ...
, YiLing Song of China set a new
world record A world record is usually the best global and most important performance that is ever recorded and officially verified in a specific skill, sport, or other kind of activity. The book ''Guinness World Records'' and other world records organization ...
of 7.101s, breaking the previous world record of 7.32s set by
Iuliia Kaplina Iuliia Vladimirovna Kaplina (russian: Юлия Владимировна Каплина; born 11 May 1993) is a Russian sport climber who has won multiple speed climbing events and set multiple world records. She was the world record holder in wom ...
of Russia at the
2017 World Games The 2017 World Games ( pl, Igrzyska Światowe 2017), commonly known as Wrocław 2017 (german: Breslau 2017; sli, Brassel 2017), was the tenth World Games, a major international multi-sport event, meant for sports, or disciplines or events withi ...
in Wroclaw and
Anouck Jaubert Anouck Jaubert (born 27 January 1994) is a French sport climber competing in speed climbing competitions. In 2017, she won the silver medal in the women's speed event at the World Games held in Wrocław, Poland. Four years earlier, she competed ...
of France at the 2018 Speed World Cup in Moscow. At the World Cup in
Xiamen Xiamen ( , ; ), also known as Amoy (, from Hokkien pronunciation ), is a sub-provincial city in southeastern Fujian, People's Republic of China, beside the Taiwan Strait. It is divided into six districts: Huli, Siming, Jimei, Tong'an, ...
, Aries Susanti Rahayu of Indonesia set a new
world record A world record is usually the best global and most important performance that is ever recorded and officially verified in a specific skill, sport, or other kind of activity. The book ''Guinness World Records'' and other world records organization ...
of 6.995s in the final race, breaking Song's 7.101s, and becoming the first woman in the history of the sport to record a time under 7 seconds. In lead, Chaehyun Seo of South Korea, in her first year of open eligibility, made her World Cup debut in Villars and claimed her first medal (silver) there. Then, she won the next 4 Lead World Cups and placed third in the last one, finishing her debut season with a 2019 Lead World Cup Season Champion title. Also in her debut season, Natsuki Tanii of Japan earned her first medal (bronze) in
Briançon Briançon (, ) is the sole Subprefectures in France, subprefecture of the Hautes-Alpes Departments of France, department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Regions of France, region in Southeastern France. It is the highest city in France at an a ...
and continued her consistent performance throughout the season and thus claiming third place of the overall lead season ranking. Other notable athletes in their World Cup debut season:
Ai Mori is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and the disciplines of competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. At the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, she became the youngest Japanese athle ...
(JPN), YueTong Zhang (CHN).


Overview


Bouldering

The overall ranking is determined based upon
points Point or points may refer to: Places * Point, Lewis, a peninsula in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland * Point, Texas, a city in Rains County, Texas, United States * Point, the NE tip and a ferry terminal of Lismore, Inner Hebrides, Scotland * Point ...
, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.


Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:


Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019: * = Joint place with another athlete


National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2019: ''Country names as used by the IFSC''


Lead

The overall ranking is determined based upon
points Point or points may refer to: Places * Point, Lewis, a peninsula in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland * Point, Texas, a city in Rains County, Texas, United States * Point, the NE tip and a ferry terminal of Lismore, Inner Hebrides, Scotland * Point ...
, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.


Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:


Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:


National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019: ''Country names as used by the IFSC''


Speed

The overall ranking is determined based upon
points Point or points may refer to: Places * Point, Lewis, a peninsula in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland * Point, Texas, a city in Rains County, Texas, United States * Point, the NE tip and a ferry terminal of Lismore, Inner Hebrides, Scotland * Point ...
, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.


Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:


Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:


National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019: ''Country names as used by the IFSC''


Combined

The 22 highest ranked climbers on the World Cup circuit (combined) who haven't already qualified for the Olympics will be invited to the
Toulouse Toulouse ( , ; oc, Tolosa ) is the prefecture of the French department of Haute-Garonne and of the larger region of Occitania. The city is on the banks of the River Garonne, from the Mediterranean Sea, from the Atlantic Ocean and from Par ...
Olympic Qualifying Event.


Men


Women


Medal table


See also

* 2019 in sport climbing *
2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 1 ...


References

{{Reflist IFSC Climbing World Cup 2019 in sport climbing