The 2017

IFSC Climbing World Cup The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The number of competit ...

was held in 15 locations.

Bouldering Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help sec ...

competitions were held in 7 locations,

lead Lead is a chemical element with the symbol Pb (from the Latin ) and atomic number 82. It is a heavy metal that is denser than most common materials. Lead is soft and malleable, and also has a relatively low melting point. When freshly cu ...

in 8 locations, and

speed In everyday use and in kinematics, the speed (commonly referred to as ''v'') of an object is the magnitude of the change of its position over time or the magnitude of the change of its position per unit of time; it is thus a scalar quanti ...

in 7 locations. The season began on 7 April in

Meiringen Meiringen () is a municipality in the Interlaken-Oberhasli administrative district in the canton of Bern in Switzerland. Besides the village of Meiringen, the municipality includes the settlements of Balm, Brünigen, Eisenbolgen, Hausen, Prasti, ...

, Switzerland and concluded on 12 November in

Kranj Kranj (, german: Krainburg) is the third-largest city in Slovenia, with a population of 37,941 (2020). It is located approximately northwest of Ljubljana. The centre of the City Municipality of Kranj and of the traditional region of Upper Carniol ...

, Slovenia. The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon

points Point or points may refer to: Places * Point, Lewis, a peninsula in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland * Point, Texas, a city in Rains County, Texas, United States * Point, the NE tip and a ferry terminal of Lismore, Inner Hebrides, Scotland * Point ...

, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. The winners for bouldering were Jongwon Chon and

Shauna Coxsey Shauna Coxsey (born 27 January 1993) is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition climbin ...

, for lead Romain Desgranges and

Janja Garnbret Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climbing, rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in ...

, and for speed

Vladislav Deulin Vladislav Aleksandrovich Deulin (russian: Владислав Александрович Деулин; born 5 May 1994) is a Russian competition climber. He is the current world leader in the IFSC competition speed climbing discipine. Rankings ...

and

Anouck Jaubert Anouck Jaubert (born 27 January 1994) is a French sport climber competing in speed climbing competitions. In 2017, she won the silver medal in the women's speed event at the World Games held in Wrocław, Poland. Four years earlier, she competed ...

, men and women respectively.

Highlights of the season

In lead climbing,

of Slovenia was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 8 lead competitions of the season. In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in

Chongqing Chongqing ( or ; ; Sichuanese dialects, Sichuanese pronunciation: , Standard Mandarin pronunciation: ), Postal Romanization, alternately romanized as Chungking (), is a Direct-administered municipalities of China, municipality in Southwes ...

Iuliia Kaplina Iuliia Vladimirovna Kaplina (russian: Юлия Владимировна Каплина; born 11 May 1993) is a Russian sport climber who has won multiple speed climbing events and set multiple world records. She was the world record holder in wom ...

of Russia set a new world record of 7.46 seconds, breaking her previous world record of 7.53 seconds she set at the 2015 Speed World Cup in

Chamonix Chamonix-Mont-Blanc ( frp, Chamôni), more commonly known as Chamonix, is a commune in the Haute-Savoie department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of southeastern France. It was the site of the first Winter Olympics in 1924. In 2019, it had ...

. Then the next week, at the World Cup in

Nanjing Nanjing (; , Mandarin pronunciation: ), alternately romanized as Nanking, is the capital of Jiangsu province of the People's Republic of China. It is a sub-provincial city, a megacity, and the second largest city in the East China region. T ...

Reza Alipour Reza Alipour Shenazandifard ( fa, رضا علیپور شنازندی فرد, born 29 َApril 1994) is an Iranian speed climber from Qazvin. He is nicknamed the "Persian Cheetah". In 2013 at the World Cup in Haiyang, China, he broke the world r ...

of Iran and Russia's

set new world records on their way to the men's and women's speed titles of 5.48 and 7.38 seconds respectively. The previous world record for the men was set at 5.60sec by

Danyil Boldyrev Danyil Boldyrev ( uk, Данило Владиславович Болдирєв, born May 15, 1992, in Donetsk, Ukraine) is a Ukrainian speed climber. He is World champion, multiple World and European Championships medalist and 2017 World Games ...

of Ukraine at the IFSC World Championships in 2014, while for the women was 7.46sec by

herself just a week before in Chongqing.

Changes from the previous season

For the 2017 season, the IFSC changed the timing method for the finals of World Cup tournaments. First, climbing time for lead finals was reduced from eight to six minutes. Second, climbing time for bouldering finals was reduced from four minutes plus to four minutes dead. This means climbers can no longer continue their attempt after the four minute mark, even if they’re off the mats before the clock runs out, which was the previous rule.

Streaming controversy

Before the start of the 2017 season, the IFSC announced that they had signed a three-year contract with the streaming platform FloSports, which would have made the streams of climbing World Cups available only to paying customers instead of being freely accessible. This led to an online petition asking the IFSC to change their deal with FloSports, which was signed by more than 12,000 people, and an open letter by the Athletes' Commission. The Commission voiced their frustration over the way the IFSC had previously communicated with the community at large, and "asked the athletes to withdraw cooperation with the livestream media until changes are made". On the next day the IFSC apologized for having made a mistake, and announced that the deal with FloSports had not actually been signed yet despite the earlier press release, and would not be concluded.

Overview

Bouldering

Boulder Worldcup 2017 winners saison men 0658

Boulder Worldcup 2017 winners saison women 0636

An overall ranking was determined based upon

, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

6 best competition results were counted ''(not counting points in brackets)'' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.

Women

6 best competition results were counted ''(not counting points in brackets)'' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted ''(not counting results in brackets)''. ''Country names as used by the IFSC''

Lead

An overall ranking was determined based upon

, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

7 best competition results were counted (''not counting points in brackets'') for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2017. Romain Desgranges won.

Women

7 best competition results were counted (''not counting points in brackets'') for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2017.

won.

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (''not counting results in brackets'').

Slovenia Slovenia ( ; sl, Slovenija ), officially the Republic of Slovenia (Slovene: , abbr.: ''RS''), is a country in Central Europe. It is bordered by Italy to the west, Austria to the north, Hungary to the northeast, Croatia to the southeast, an ...

won.

Speed

An overall ranking was determined based upon

, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

6 best competition results were counted ''(not counting points in brackets)'' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.

won.

Women

6 best competition results were counted ''(not counting points in brackets)'' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.

won.

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted ''(not counting results in brackets)''.

Russian Federation Russia (, , ), or the Russian Federation, is a List of transcontinental countries, transcontinental country spanning Eastern Europe and North Asia, Northern Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by area, largest country in the ...

won.

Combined

Maximum number of counting results per discipline: Lead: 7, Boulder: 6, Speed: 6. Not counting points are in brackets.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2017:

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2017:

References

{{Commonscat, Climbing World Cup 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017 in sport climbing