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Wave Overtopping
Wave overtopping is the time-averaged amount of water that is discharged (in liters per second) per structure length (in meters) by wind waves, waves over a structure such as a breakwater (structure), breakwater, revetment or levee, dike which has a crest height above still water level. When waves break over a dike, it causes water to flow onto the land behind it. Excessive overtopping is undesirable because it can compromise the integrity of the structure or result in a safety hazard, particularly when the structure is in an area where people, infrastructure or vehicles are present, such as in the case of a dike fronting an esplanade or densely populated area. Wave overtopping typically transpires during extreme weather events, such as intense storms, which often elevate water levels beyond average due to wind setup. These effects may be further intensified when the storm coincides with a high spring tide. Excessive overtopping may cause damage to the inner slope of the di ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Probabilistic
Probability is the branch of mathematics concerning numerical descriptions of how likely an Event (probability theory), event is to occur, or how likely it is that a proposition is true. The probability of an event is a number between 0 and 1, where, roughly speaking, 0 indicates impossibility of the event and 1 indicates certainty."Kendall's Advanced Theory of Statistics, Volume 1: Distribution Theory", Alan Stuart and Keith Ord, 6th Ed, (2009), .William Feller, ''An Introduction to Probability Theory and Its Applications'', (Vol 1), 3rd Ed, (1968), Wiley, . The higher the probability of an event, the more likely it is that the event will occur. A simple example is the tossing of a fair (unbiased) coin. Since the coin is fair, the two outcomes ("heads" and "tails") are both equally probable; the probability of "heads" equals the probability of "tails"; and since no other outcomes are possible, the probability of either "heads" or "tails" is 1/2 (which could also be written ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Iribarren Number
In fluid dynamics, the Iribarren number or Iribarren parameter – also known as the surf similarity parameter and breaker parameter – is a dimensionless parameter used to model several effects of (breaking) surface gravity waves on beaches and coastal structures. The parameter is named after the Spanish engineer Ramón Iribarren Cavanilles (1900–1967), who introduced it to describe the occurrence of wave breaking on sloping beaches. For instance, the Iribarren number is used to describe breaking wave types on beaches; or wave run-up on – and reflection by – beaches, breakwaters and dikes. Definition The Iribarren number which is often denoted as ''Ir'' or ''ξ'' – is defined as: :\xi = \frac, with L_0 = \frac\, T^2, where ''ξ'' is the Iribarren number, is the angle of the seaward slope of a structure, ''H'' is the wave height, ''L''0 is the deep-water wavelength, ''T'' is the period and ''g'' is the gravitational acceleration. Depending on the application, di ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Error Function
In mathematics, the error function (also called the Gauss error function), often denoted by , is a complex function of a complex variable defined as: :\operatorname z = \frac\int_0^z e^\,\mathrm dt. This integral is a special (non-elementary) sigmoid function that occurs often in probability, statistics, and partial differential equations. In many of these applications, the function argument is a real number. If the function argument is real, then the function value is also real. In statistics, for non-negative values of , the error function has the following interpretation: for a random variable that is normally distributed with mean 0 and standard deviation , is the probability that falls in the range . Two closely related functions are the complementary error function () defined as :\operatorname z = 1 - \operatorname z, and the imaginary error function () defined as :\operatorname z = -i\operatorname iz, where is the imaginary unit Name The name "error function ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Delft University Of Technology
Delft University of Technology ( nl, Technische Universiteit Delft), also known as TU Delft, is the oldest and largest Dutch public technical university, located in Delft, Netherlands. As of 2022 it is ranked by QS World University Rankings among the top 10 engineering and technology universities in the world. In the fields of architecture and civil engineering, it was ranked 2nd in the world, after MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology). With eight faculties and numerous research institutes, it has more than 26,000 students (undergraduate and postgraduate) and 6,000 employees (teaching, research, support and management staff). The university was established on 8 January 1842 by William II of the Netherlands as a Royal Academy, with the primary purpose of training civil servants for work in the Dutch East Indies. The school expanded its research and education curriculum over time, becoming a polytechnic school in 1864 and an institute of technology (making it a full-fledged ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Jurjen Battjes
Jurjen Anno Battjes (born 22 February 1939) is a Dutch civil engineer. He was a professor of fluid dynamics at Delft University of Technology until his retirement in 2004. Battjes was elected an international member of the National Academy of Engineering in 2009 for international leadership, research, and teaching in coastal engineering and storm protection. Career Battjes was born on 22 February 1939 in Winschoten. He studied civil engineering at Delft University of Technology, earning his M.Sc in 1962. Battjes subsequently spent four years as an assistant professor at the Laboratory of Coastal Engineering at the University of Florida, in the United States. He started working as a professor at Delft University of Technology in the late 1960s, where he held the chair of fluid dynamics. In 1974 Battjes obtained his Doctor title in technical sciences at Delft University under Johan Schönfeld, with a thesis titled ''Computation of Set-up, Longshore Currents, Run-up and Overtopping d ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Sediment
Sediment is a naturally occurring material that is broken down by processes of weathering and erosion, and is subsequently transported by the action of wind, water, or ice or by the force of gravity acting on the particles. For example, sand and silt can be carried in suspension in river water and on reaching the sea bed deposited by sedimentation; if buried, they may eventually become sandstone and siltstone (sedimentary rocks) through lithification. Sediments are most often transported by water (fluvial processes), but also wind (aeolian processes) and glaciers. Beach sands and river channel deposits are examples of fluvial transport and deposition, though sediment also often settles out of slow-moving or standing water in lakes and oceans. Desert sand dunes and loess are examples of aeolian transport and deposition. Glacial moraine deposits and till are ice-transported sediments. Classification Sediment can be classified based on its grain size, grain shape, and c ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Hydrodynamic Scour
Hydrodynamic scour is the removal of sediment such as silt, sand and gravel from around the base of obstructions to the flow in the sea, rivers and canals. Scour, caused by fast flowing water, can carve out scour holes, compromising the integrity of a structure. It is an interaction between the hydrodynamics and the geotechnical properties of the substrate. It is a notable cause of Bridge scour, bridge failure and a problem with most marine structures supported by the seabed in areas of significant Tidal scour, tidal and ocean current. It can also affect biological ecosystems and heritage assets. Mechanism file:Kolkschema.svg, lang=en, upright=1.3, Mechanism of formation, alt=sketch Any obstruction within flowing water will produce changes in velocity within the water column. The flow changes that occur in the vicinity of the substrate may cause differential movement in the bed materials near the obstruction. The magnitude of these changes varies with stream velocity, feature sha ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Beach
A beach is a landform alongside a body of water which consists of loose particles. The particles composing a beach are typically made from rock, such as sand, gravel, shingle, pebbles, etc., or biological sources, such as mollusc shells or coralline algae. Sediments settle in different densities and structures, depending on the local wave action and weather, creating different textures, colors and gradients or layers of material. Though some beaches form on inland freshwater locations such as lakes and rivers, most beaches are in coastal areas where wave or current action deposits and reworks sediments. Erosion and changing of beach geologies happens through natural processes, like wave action and extreme weather events. Where wind conditions are correct, beaches can be backed by coastal dunes which offer protection and regeneration for the beach. However, these natural forces have become more extreme due to climate change, permanently altering beaches at very rapid ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Seawall
A seawall (or sea wall) is a form of coastal defense constructed where the sea, and associated coastal processes, impact directly upon the landforms of the coast. The purpose of a seawall is to protect areas of human habitation, conservation and leisure activities from the action of tides, waves, or tsunamis. As seawall is a static feature it will conflict with the dynamic nature of the coast and impede the exchange of sediment between land and sea. Seawall designs factor in local climate, coastal position, wave regime (determined by wave characteristics and effectors), and value (morphological characteristics) of landform. Seawalls are hard engineering shore-based structures which protect the coast from erosion. Various environmental issues may arise from the construction of a seawall, including the disruption of sediment movement and transport patterns. Combined with a high construction cost, this has led to an increasing use of other soft engineering coastal management o ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Physical Models
A model is an informative representation of an object, person or system. The term originally denoted the plans of a building in late 16th-century English, and derived via French and Italian ultimately from Latin ''modulus'', a measure. Models can be divided into physical models (e.g. a model plane) and abstract models (e.g. mathematical expressions describing behavioural patterns). Abstract or conceptual models are central to philosophy of science, as almost every scientific theory effectively embeds some kind of model of the physical or human sphere. In commerce, "model" can refer to a specific design of a product as displayed in a catalogue or show room (e.g. Ford Model T), and by extension to the sold product itself. Types of models include: Physical model A physical model (most commonly referred to simply as a model but in this context distinguished from a conceptual model) is a smaller or larger physical copy of an object. The object being modelled may be small ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
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