Timeline Of Climbing Mount Everest
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Timeline Of Climbing Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at 8,849 metres (29,031.7 ft) above sea level. It is situated in the Himalayan range of Solukhumbu district (Province 1 in present days), Nepal. Timeline 1921: Reconnaissance expedition The first British expedition—organized and financed by the newly formed Mount Everest Committee—came under the leadership of Colonel Charles Howard-Bury, with Harold Raeburn as mountaineering leader, and included George Mallory, Guy Bullock, and Edward Oliver Wheeler. It was primarily for mapping and reconnaissance to discover whether a route to the summit could be found from the north side. As the health of Raeburn broke down, Mallory assumed responsibility for most of the exploration to the north and east of the mountain. He wrote to his wife: "We are about to walk off the map..." After five months of arduous climbing around the base of the mountain, Wheeler explored the hidden East Rongbuk Glacier and its route to the bas ...
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Noel Odell
Noel Ewart Odell FRSE FGS (25 December 1890 – 21 February 1987) was an English geologist and mountaineer. In 1924 he was an oxygen officer on the Everest expedition in which George Mallory and Andrew Irvine famously perished during their summit attempt. Odell spent two weeks living above 23,000 feet (7,000m), and twice climbed to 26,800-ft and higher, all without supplemental oxygen. In 1936 Noel Odell with Bill Tilman climbed Nanda Devi, at the time the highest mountain climbed. Early life He was born at St Lawrence, Isle of Wight the son of Rev R. W. Odell and his wife, M. M. Ewart. He was educated at Brighton College and the Royal School of Mines, Imperial College. He received a doctorate (PhD) from Cambridge University. He was an accomplished rock climber, joining the Alpine Club in 1916 and famous for his solo first ascent in 1919 of ''Tennis Shoe'' on the Idwal Slabs, in Snowdonia. Odell Gully in the Huntington Ravine of New Hampshire's Mount Washington is named af ...
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Frank Smythe
Francis Sydney Smythe, better known as Frank Smythe or F. S. Smythe (6 July 1900 – 27 June 1949), was an English mountaineer, author, photographer and botanist. He is best remembered for his mountaineering in the Alps as well as in the Himalayas, where he identified a region that he named the "Valley of Flowers", now a protected park. His ascents include two new routes on the Brenva Face of Mont Blanc, Kamet, and attempts on Kangchenjunga and Mount Everest in the 1930s. It was said that he had a tendency for irascibility, something some of his mountaineering contemporaries said "decreased with altitude". Biography Smythe was born at Maidstone in Kent and educated in Switzerland after an initial period at Berkhamsted School. He trained as an electrical engineer and worked for brief periods with the Royal Air Force and Kodak before devoting himself to writing and public lecturing. Smythe enjoyed mountaineering, photography, collecting plants, and gardening; he toured as a lec ...
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Eric Shipton
Eric Earle Shipton, CBE (1 August 1907 – 28 March 1977), was an English Himalayan mountaineer. Early years Shipton was born in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) in 1907 where his father, a tea planter, died before he was three years old. When he was eight, his mother brought him to London for his education. When he failed the entrance exam to Harrow School, his mother sent him to Pyt House School in Wiltshire. His first encounter with mountains was at 15 when he visited the Pyrenees with his family. The next summer he spent travelling in Norway with a school friend and within a year he had begun climbing seriously. Africa and the Himalaya In 1928 he went to Kenya as a coffee grower and first climbed Nelion, a peak of Mount Kenya, in 1929. It was also in Kenya's community of Europeans where he met his future climbing partners Bill Tilman and Percy Wyn-Harris. Together with Wyn-Harris, he climbed the twin peaks of Mount Kenya. With Frank Smythe, Shipton was amongst the first climbers to st ...
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Percy Wyn-Harris
Sir Percy Wyn-Harris Order of St Michael and St George, KCMG Order of the British Empire, MBE Venerable Order of Saint John, KStJ (24 August 1903 – 25 February 1979) was an English Mountaineering, mountaineer, colonial administrator, and yachtsman. He worked in the Colonial Service in Africa and served as List of colonial governors of the Gambia, Governor of the Gambia from 1949 to 1958. Early life and mountaineering Wyn-Harris was born in Acton, London, Acton, Middlesex on 24 August 1903 as Percy Wynne Harris (he formally changed his name to Percy Wyn-Harris in 1953). He was the son of a company director and was educated at Gresham's School, Holt, Norfolk, Holt, and Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge. As an undergraduate, he was a member of the University Mountaineering Club. In 1925, he made the first ascent without guides of the Brouillard Ridge on Mont Blanc. In 1929, he met mountaineer Eric Shipton and together they climbed the twin peaks of Mount Kenya, making the f ...
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Lawrence Wager
Lawrence Rickard Wager, commonly known as Bill Wager, (5 February 1904 – 20 November 1965) was a British geologist, explorer and mountaineer, described as "one of the finest geological thinkers of his generation"Vincent and best remembered for his work on the Skaergaard intrusion in Greenland, and for his attempt on Mount Everest in 1933. Early life Wager was born in Batley, Yorkshire, and was the son of Morton Ethelred Wager and Adelina Rickard. Wager attended Hebden Bridge Grammar School, where his father was headmaster. He later lived with his uncle Harold Wager, FRS, a botanist and mycologist, while studying at Leeds Grammar School. He then entered Pembroke College, Cambridge, where he gained a first class degree in geology in 1926. While at Cambridge, he developed an interest in climbing, spending a number of holidays in the Wales, Scotland and the Alps, and serving as president of the university's mountaineering club. He was also, later, identified as one of a number o ...
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Hugh Ruttledge
Hugh Ruttledge (24 October 1884 – 7 November 1961) was an English civil servant and mountaineer who was the leader of two expeditions to Mount Everest in 1933 and 1936. Early life The son of Lt.-Colonel Edward Butler Ruttledge, of the Indian Medical Service, and of his wife Alice Dennison, Ruttledge was educated at schools in Dresden and Lausanne and then at Cheltenham College. In 1903 he matriculated as an exhibitioner at Pembroke College, Cambridge, and in 1906 he took a second-class Honours degree in the Classical Honours tripos.Audrey Salkeld, ''Ruttledge, Hugh (1884–1961), mountaineer'' in ''Oxford Dictionary of National Biography'', Oxford University Press, 2004, online aRuttledge, Hugh (1884–1961)(subscription required) accessed 1 March 2008 India and mountaineering Ruttledge passed the Indian Civil Service examination in 1908 and spent a year at the University of London studying Indian law, history and languages, before going out to India towards the end of 1909. ...
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Xu Jing (mountaineer)
Xu Jing (, 1927 – 15 October 2011) was a Chinese mountaineer and leader of the first team to reach the summit of Shishapangma, Tibet on 2 May 1964. In 1965 this area would become the Tibet Autonomous Region. Xu Jing was born in Fushun, Liaoning, China. He learned mountaineering in the Soviet Union in 1955. In 1956, Xu Jing took charge of China's first mountaineering training program organized by All-China Federation of Trade Unions. The same year, he climbed Muztagh Ata in a joint Sino-Soviet expedition. In 1960, he was the deputy leader of the Chinese Mount Everest expedition team, but had to retreat at 8500 m due to exhaustion. In 1964, Xu Jing led a team of members to reach the summit of Shishapangma, the last unclimbed eight-thousander. In 1975, he was the deputy leader of the Chinese expedition team that successfully climbed and surveyed Mount Everest. In 1988, he was the deputy leader of the China-Japan-Nepal joint Mount Everest "crossover" team. Xu Jing was vice-pr ...
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Tenzing Norgay
Tenzing Norgay (; ''tendzin norgyé''; perhaps 29 May 1914 – 9 May 1986), born Namgyal Wangdi, and also referred to as Sherpa Tenzing, was a Nepali-Indian Sherpa mountaineer. He was one of the first two people known to reach the summit of Mount Everest, which he accomplished with Edmund Hillary on 29 May 1953. ''Time'' named Norgay one of the 100 most influential people of the 20th century. Early life There are conflicting accounts of Tenzing's early life. In his autobiography, he wrote that he was a Sherpa born and raised in Tengboche, Khumbu, in northeastern Nepal.Tenzing & Ullman In a 1985 interview with All India Radio, he said his parents came from Tibet, but that he was born in Nepal. According to many later accounts, including a book co-written by his son Jamling Tenzin Norgay, he was born in Tibet, at Tse Chu in the Kama Valley, and grew up in Thame. He spent his early childhood in Kharta, near the north of the country. Norgay went to Nepal as a child to ...
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Edmund Hillary
Sir Edmund Percival Hillary (20 July 1919 – 11 January 2008) was a New Zealand mountaineer, explorer, and philanthropist. On 29 May 1953, Hillary and Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay became the first climbers confirmed to have reached the summit of Mount Everest. They were part of the ninth British expedition to Everest, led by John Hunt. From 1985 to 1988 he served as New Zealand's High Commissioner to India and Bangladesh and concurrently as Ambassador to Nepal. Hillary became interested in mountaineering while in secondary school. He made his first major climb in 1939, reaching the summit of Mount Ollivier. He served in the Royal New Zealand Air Force as a navigator during World War II and was wounded in an accident. Prior to the Everest expedition, Hillary had been part of the British reconnaissance expedition to the mountain in 1951 as well as an unsuccessful attempt to climb Cho Oyu in 1952. As part of the Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition he reached t ...
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Mountaineering
Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering are also considered variants of mountaineering by some. Unlike most sports, mountaineering lacks widely applied formal rules, regulations, and governance; mountaineers adhere to a large variety of techniques and philosophies when climbing mountains. Numerous local alpine clubs support mountaineers by hosting resources and social activities. A federation of alpine clubs, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), is the International Olympic Committee-recognized world organization for mountaineering and climbing. The consequences of mountaineering on the natural environment can be seen in terms of individual components of the environment (land relief, soil, vegetation, fauna, and landscape) and location/z ...
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Mallory And Irvine Research Expedition
The goal of the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition of 1999 was to discover evidence of whether George Mallory and Andrew Irvine had been the first to summit Mount Everest in their attempt of 8–9 June 1924. The expedition was organised by regular Everest expedition leader Eric Simonson and advised by researcher Jochen Hemmleb, with a team of climbers from the United States, the United Kingdom, and Germany. Hemmleb's investigations of reports of earlier sightings and photographs had led him to identify what he believed was the area in which Irvine's body lay, some distance below where his ice axe had been found by Percy Wyn-Harris on the expedition led by Hugh Ruttledge in 1933. The team hoped in particular to find a camera on Irvine's body which, had the pair been successful, should have contained a picture of the summit. After commencing the search on 1 May 1999, Conrad Anker mistakenly got off course and, surprisingly, found Mallory's body, not Irvine's. Mallory lay face- ...
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