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Three Pinnacles
The Three Pinnacles are a formation of steep rocks along the northeast ridge on Mount Everest. They were one of the longest unsolved challenges in high-level mountaineering, but have now been successfully climbed. The rocks are located at around 7,800, 8,100 and 8,200 metres above sea level (height of base of pinnacle) and are therefore already in the death zone, in which people cannot usually recover, even at rest. The normal routes on Everest avoid this area; the normal northern route leaves it to the left. During the various attempts to conquer the pinnacles and open a new route along the entire northeast ridge, there were frequently serious problems and fatalities. In 1982 Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker died in the first serious attempt to climb in groups at grade 5 within the death zone. In 1988, Russell Brice and Harry Taylor successfully climbed the Three Pinnacles, but they were so exhausted after climbing the third pinnacle that they abandoned their original plan to ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Russell Brice
Russell Reginald Brice (born 3 July 1952) is a New Zealand mountaineer. He was the owner/manager of Himex (Himalayan Experience Ltd.), a climbing expedition company. He has summited Cho Oyu seven times, Himal Chuli and Mount Everest twice, as well as Manaslu in October 2010, which was his 14th summit of an 8000 m peak. Career Brice first went to Everest in 1974 as part of Edmund Hillary's Himalayan Trust. His first attempt to climb the mountain was in 1981. In 1988, Brice and Harry Taylor were the first climbers to successfully climb The Three Pinnacles on Everest's Northeast Ridge. Brice reached the summit of Everest on 29 May 1997 and again on 25 May 1998. He is best known for leading the 2006, 2007, and 2009 expeditions on Everest which were filmed by the Discovery Channel for three seasons of a series titled '' Everest: Beyond the Limit.'' The series touts Brice's experience, weather savvy, and professionalism compared to other groups on the mountain. Following the first se ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Direttissima (climbing)
A ''direttissima'' (Italian for "shortest link") is a climbing term meaning a direct climb to the summit of a mountain up the fall line from the valley base to the top. Whilst the normal route aims to find the way with the least difficulty, the climber attempting a ''direttissima'' faces the challenge of ascending the mountain in a more "direct" way. Definition The term stems from Italian climber, Emilio Comici, who said: "I wish some day to make a route, and from the summit let fall a drop of water, and this is where my route will have gone" There are usually many climbing routes to the summit of a mountain and it often takes days of studying to work out which route might be suitable. Sometimes the theoretical considerations turn out to be impracticable or inexpedient in hindsight. But the alpinist who decides to climb a mountain peak or rock face ''direttissima'' may only depart slightly from the vertical line to the summit during his ascent. History Reinhold Messner wrote th ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Fixed Rope
In mountaineering, a fixed rope or fixed line is the practice of fixing in place bolted ropes to assist climbers and walkers in exposed mountain locations. They are used widely on American and European climbing routes, where they may be called via ferrata routes, but are not used in "Alpine style" mountaineering. Many guided expeditions to any of the eight-thousanders normally set up fixed rope on steep or icy sections of the route. For example, on the Hillary Step of Mount Everest Mount Everest (; Tibetic languages, Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is List of highest mountains on Earth, Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border ru ..., fixed rope was used to reduce the bottleneck of climbers that typically results from climbing this technical section just below the summit. In changing mountain environments such as glaciers, ice falls and areas with significant snow, fixed lines must ge ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Chris Bonington
Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL (born 6 August 1934) is a British mountaineer. His career has included nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest. Early life and expeditions Bonington's father, who left the family when Christian was nine months old, was a founding member of L Detachment, Special Air Service. Bonington first began climbing in 1951 at age 16. Educated at University College School in Hampstead, Bonington joined the Royal Fusiliers before attending Royal Military Academy Sandhurst, and on graduation was commissioned in the Royal Tank Regiment in 1956. After serving three years in North Germany, he spent two years at the Army Outward Bound School as a mountaineering instructor. Bonington was part of the party that made the first British ascent of the South West Pillar (aka Bonatti Pillar) of the Aiguille du Dru in 1958, and the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney on the south side of Mont Blanc in 1961 wi ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Rongbuk Glacier
The Rongbuk Glacier () is located in the Himalaya of southern Tibet. Two large tributary glaciers, the East Rongbuk Glacier and the West Rongbuk Glacier, flow into the main Rongbuk Glacier. It flows north and forms the Rongbuk Valley north of Mount Everest. The famous Rongbuk Monastery is located at the northern end of the Rongbuk valley. Mount Everest is the source of the Rongbuk Glacier and East Rongbuk Glacier. Discovery The English climber George Mallory first explored the main Rongbuk Valley and its glacier while searching for possible routes to the summit of Mount Everest, during the first British Everest reconnaissance expedition of 1921. On the same expedition, Oliver Wheeler first explored the East Rongbuk Glacier. His exploration below the Lhakpa La pass led him on 3 August 1921 to realise that the East Rongbuk Valley provided the key to a viable route to the summit of Everest. A few weeks later, a party consisting of George Mallory, Guy Bullock, and Oliver Wheeler exp ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
North Col
__NOTOC__ The North Col (; ) refers to the sharp-edged pass carved by glaciers in the ridge connecting Mount Everest and Changtse in Tibet. It forms the head of the East Rongbuk Glacier. When climbers attempt to climb Everest via the North ridge (Tibet), the first camp on the mountain itself (traditional Camp IV, modern Camp I) is established on the North Col. From this point at approximately above sea level, climbers ascend the North Ridge to reach a series of progressively higher camps along the North Face of Everest. Climbers make their final push to the summit from Camp VI at 8,230 metres (27,001 ft) altitude. The North Col was first climbed by George Mallory, Edward Oliver Wheeler, and Guy Bullock on 23 September 1921, during the British reconnaissance expedition. This was the first time a Westerner had set foot on Mount Everest. Although long credited to Mallory, discovery of the North Col was in fact made by Wheeler about a week before Mallory confirmed its existence ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Harry Taylor (mountaineer)
Harry Taylor (born 20 September 1958) is a British mountaineer, security advisor and former SAS member. He founded ‘High Adventure’ with Loel Guinness, an extreme sports company specifically designed to set records in climbing, paragliding, and skydiving. His team set a world distance flight record for a paraglider at 150.6 km in Namibia. In 1991, with close friend Charles "Nish" Bruce he made a tandem skydive with oxygen from 27,000 feet over Badajoz in Spain. Taylor did a tandem paraglider flight from Cho Oyu 8,201m Tibet and was also the 1st British paraglider pilot to fly from Denali, Alaska. Taylor began his career in the Royal Marines as an Arctic survival instructor, and later served with the British 22 SAS. In the late 1990s Taylor was Security Advisor to BP in Algeria, as well as to a number of world-renowned families. He also led an international investigation on human trafficking. After his service in the SAS, he became an IFMGA Mountain Guide and in 1 ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Joe Tasker
Joe Tasker (12 May 1948 – 17 May 1982) was a British climber, active during the late 1970s and early 1980s. He died while climbing Mount Everest. Early life Born into a traditional Roman Catholic family in 1948, Tasker was the second of ten children and spent his early childhood in Port Clarence, Middlesbrough. The family later moved to Billingham and Joe attended Ushaw College, Ushaw Seminary, County Durham between the ages of 13 and 20, in training to become a Catholic priest. Fascinated by ''The Climb Up to Hell'' by Jack Olsen, a book recounting harrowing tales of tragic attempts to climb the North face (Eiger), North Face of the Eiger, he started climbing in a nearby quarry in 1966. After leaving the seminary he first worked as a dustman before studying sociology at Manchester University, where he was an enthusiastic participant in the Student Union's gypsy liaison and soup-run groups. He improved his climbing skills during this time, graduating from rock climbing in ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
North Face Marked
North is one of the four compass points or cardinal directions. It is the opposite of south and is perpendicular to east and west. ''North'' is a noun, adjective, or adverb indicating Direction (geometry), direction or geography. Etymology The word ''north'' is etymology, related to the Old High German ''nord'', both descending from the Proto-Indo-European language, Proto-Indo-European unit *''ner-'', meaning "left; below" as north is to left when facing the rising sun. Similarly, the other cardinal directions are also related to the sun's position. The Latin word ''borealis'' comes from the Ancient Greek, Greek ''Anemoi#Boreas, boreas'' "north wind, north", which, according to Ovid, was personified as the wind-god Anemoi#Boreas, Boreas, the father of Calais and Zetes. ''Septentrionalis'' is from ''septentriones'', "the seven plow oxen", a name of ''Ursa Major''. The Greek ἀρκτικός (''arktikós'') is named for the same constellation, and is the source of the English ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Peter Boardman
Peter Boardman (25 December 1950 – 17 May 1982) was an English mountaineer and author. He is best known for a series of bold and lightweight expeditions to the Himalayas, often in partnership with Joe Tasker, and for his contribution to mountain literature. Boardman and Tasker died on the North East Ridge of Mount Everest in 1982. The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature was established in their memory. Early life and education Boardman was born in Stockport, Cheshire, England, the youngest son of Alan Howe Boardman (1920–1979) and Dorothy Boardman (1923–2007). He attended Stockport Grammar School from 1956 to 1969, going on school trips to Corsica in 1964 and 1965, and to the Swabian Alps in 1966. Boardman first began climbing with school friends at Windgather Rocks in the Peak District National Park. After joining the Mynydd Climbing Club in 1966, Boardman's climbing progressed quickly and he went on to climb in the Pennine Alps in 1968. From 1969 to 1972, Boar ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Normal Route
A normal route or normal way (french: voie normale; german: Normalweg) is the most frequently used route for ascending and descending a mountain peak. It is usually the simplest route. Overview In the Alps, routes are classed in the following ways, based on their waymarking, construction and upkeep: * Footpaths (''Fußwege'') *Hiking trails (''Wanderwege'') * Mountain trails (''Bergwege'') * Alpine routes (''Alpine Routen'') *Climbing routes (''Kletterrouten'') and High Alpine routes (''Hochalpine Routen'') in combined rock and ice terrain, (UIAA) graded by difficulty Sometimes the normal route is not the easiest ascent to the summit, but just the one that is most used. There may be technically easier variations. This is especially the case on the Watzmannfrau, the Hochkalter and also Mount Everest. There may be many reasons these easier options are less well-used: * the simplest route is less well known than the normal route (Watzmannfrau). * the technically easiest route is mor ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
