The Story Of Two Worlds
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The Story Of Two Worlds
''Dreamtime'' is a long gneiss bouldering route in a forest in Cresciano, Switzerland. When first solved in October 2000 by Swiss bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole, it was graded at , making it the world's first-ever boulder route at that grade. With subsequent repeat ascents, it was regraded to , but after the breaking of a key hold in 2009, its grade is now considered closer to . ''Dreamtime'' is the most notable bouldering route in climbing history along with ''Midnight Lightning'', and is renowned for both its beauty and its challenge. History In early 2000, Swiss bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole began projecting ''Dreamtime'', envisaging a long right-to-left diagonal route from a sit-start that took about 21 movements. After traveling to Australia and then to South Africa, Nicole returned to the route in the autumn and solved it on 28 October 2000. Nicole felt it was the hardest route he had ever done and proposed a grade of , which was the first-ever boulder route at that ...
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Ticino
Ticino (), sometimes Tessin (), officially the Republic and Canton of Ticino or less formally the Canton of Ticino,, informally ''Canton Ticino'' ; lmo, Canton Tesin ; german: Kanton Tessin ; french: Canton du Tessin ; rm, Chantun dal Tessin . is one of the 26 cantons forming the Swiss Confederation. It is composed of eight districts and its capital city is Bellinzona. It is also traditionally divided into the Sopraceneri and the Sottoceneri, respectively north and south of Monte Ceneri. Red and blue are the colours of its flag. Ticino is the southernmost canton of Switzerland. It is one of the three large southern Alpine cantons, along with Valais and the Grisons. However, unlike all other cantons, it lies almost entirely south of the Alps, and has no natural access to the Swiss Plateau. Through the main crest of the Gotthard and adjacent mountain ranges, it borders the canton of Valais to the northwest, the canton of Uri to the north and the canton of Grisons to the northea ...
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Dai Koyamada
Dai Koyamada ( ja, 小山田大, born 23 August 1976) is a Japanese rock climber Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and ... and known as one of the leading boulderers of his generation who established some of the List of first ascents (sport climbing)#Solved by men, first-ever boulder problems at . He has also established and repeated, some of the hardest sport climbing, sport climbs in the world. Early life Dai was born on 23 August 1976 in Kagoshima Prefecture and started climbing in 1993. Climbing career In 1996, Koyamada won the Japanese National Championship. This is the event that allowed him to become a professional rock climber. Four years later in 2000 Koyamada left the competitions because he realized "The real nature of my climbing resides in crags". Koyamada ...
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Jimmy Webb (climber)
Jimmy Webb (born November 7, 1987) is an American professional rock climber specializing in bouldering. He is one of a handful of climbers who have climbed the boulder grade . Webb was the men's winner of the 2013 Psicobloc Masters Series held in Park City, Utah. He beat several of the world's best climbers to win the event, including Chris Sharma, Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, and Tommy Caldwell. In spring 2014, Webb climbed ''The Understanding'' and ''Practice of the Wild'', both routes, within a week of each other. In November 2014, he repeated ''Defying Gravity'', which was first climbed by Daniel Woods a year before. Webb has flashed six boulder problems graded or higher. Dead Point Magazine says "it’s not a stretch to consider Jimmy the world’s best flash boulderer." On December 15, 2018, after 11 days of effort, Webb completed the first ascent of ''Sleepwalker'' in Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, suggesting a grade of ; he grade was confirmed by Daniel Woods in J ...
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Yannick Flohé
Yannick Flohé (born 14 August 1999) is a German rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. He participated at the 2019 and 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships, being awarded the bronze and gold medal A gold medal is a medal awarded for highest achievement in a non-military field. Its name derives from the use of at least a fraction of gold in form of plating or alloying in its manufacture. Since the eighteenth century, gold medals have bee ... in the men's bouldering and men's combined events. References External links *Yannick Flohéat 8a.nu 1999 births Living people Place of birth missing (living people) German rock climbers IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists 21st-century German people Boulder climbers German competition climbers {{Climbing-bio-stub ...
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Alex Megos
Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to on-sight (climb on the first try without prior practice or advice) a route graded . He has completed multiple routes and boulder problems that are notoriously difficult, including two routes (''Perfecto Mundo'' and ''Bibliographie''), six routes (''First Round, First Minute'', ''Fight Club,'' ''King Capella,'' ''Ratstaman Vibrations,'' and ''The Full Journey''), and some boulders with a confirmed rating. Climbing career Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. In 2006, Megos began training in the mountainous region of his native Bavaria, known as Franconian Switzerland, and later at the German Alpine Club's national climbing center in Erlangen-Nuremberg. There, he was mentored by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who continue to train and coach Megos to this day. In 2007, Megos completed his first . Two y ...
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Rocklands, South Africa
Rocklands is a popular bouldering destination in South Africa. It is located under 200km from Cape Town, on the edge of the Cederberg Mountains. The area is known for its abundance of bright-orange sandstone boulders. Boulderers have frequented Rocklands since 1996, when Todd Skinner, Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is consi ..., and others began documenting bouldering routes in the area. References Climbing areas of South Africa {{Climbing-stub ...
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Jernej Kruder
Jernej Kruder (born December 5, 1990) is a Slovenian rock climber who specializes in competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing. In 2018, he won the IFSC Climbing World Cup in competition bouldering. Climbing career In 2016 Jernej completed the graded deep-water soloing route ''Es Pontàs'' in Mallorca. The route was originally established by Chris Sharma in 2006. Jernej was only the second climber to repeat it. It took him 16 days and 39 attempts to finish the route. Jernej initially graded the route . Jan Hojer, who got the third ascend on the route, downgraded it to 9a+. In September 2018, he managed to get the first ascent on the boulder, ''Metafizika'', near Celje, Slovenia. It has a bouldering grade of , and was only the second boulder of that difficulty in Slovenia. On 31 December 2018, Jernej made the first ascent of ''Dugi rat'' at the crag Vrulja close to Omiš in Croatia , image_flag = Flag of Croatia.svg , image_coat = Coat of a ...
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Paul Robinson (climber)
Paul David Robinson (born August 28, 1987) is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering. He has established and repeated several bouldering problems at the V15 difficulty rating, in such areas as Hueco Tanks, the Buttermilks, and Magic Wood. In 2007, Robinson became the second climber in history to successfully climb a V13 boulder problem in one attempt. Climbing career Competition climbing In 2007, Paul Robinson took second place at the 8th Annual American Bouldering Series (ABS) National Championships. The following year, Robinson took first place at the competition, beating Chris Sharma and Sean McColl. Later that year, he took third place at the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado. In 2009, Robinson competed once again in the ABS National Championships, this time taking second place behind Daniel Woods. At the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in Vail, he completed three of the four finals problems, p ...
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Climbing (magazine)
''Climbing'' is a major US-based rock climbing magazine first published in 1970. In 2007, it was bought by Skram Media, the publisher of ''Urban Climber Magazine''. The headquarters of the magazine is in Boulder, Colorado. It is published nine times a year. Climbing was purchased by '' Outside'' in 2021. See also * ''Alpinist'' magazine * ''Summit'' magazine * ''Rock & Ice ''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became e ...'' References External links * Online magazines published in the United States Sports magazines published in the United States Climbing magazines Magazines established in 1970 Magazines published in Colorado {{sport-mag-stub ...
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Jan Hojer
Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed '' Action Directe'', still considered to be one of the most difficult routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several boulder problems. Career Hojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, he quit competing in that discipline in 2011 and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships. He won the seasonal title of the Bouldering Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finished second in 2015. In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in Bouldering. Also in 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Game ...
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Outside (magazine)
''Outside'' is an American company and magazine focused on the outdoors. The first issue of ''Outside'' was published in September 1977. History Outside founders were Jann Wenner (the first editor in chief), William Randolph Hearst III (its first managing editor), and Jack Ford (an assistant to founding publisher Donald Welsh and a son of former U.S. President Gerald Ford). Wenner sold ''Outside'' to Lawrence J. Burke two years later. Burke merged it into his magazine ''Mariah'' (founded in 1976) and after a period of using the name ''Mariah/Outside'' kept the ''Outside'' name for the merged magazine. Christopher Keyes is the current editor. Outside, formerly Pocket Outdoor Media, acquired Outside Integrated Media in February 2021. Outside brands include Outside Magazine, Outside Business Journal, Outside Integrated Media, Outside TV, Gaia GPS, fastestknowntime.com, athleteReg, Peloton Magazine, Yoga Journal, SKI, Backpacker, VeloNews, Climbing, Rock & Ice, Gym Climber, Trail ...
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Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is also the only male athlete to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines (lead climbing in 2009, 2015, and 2019 and bouldering in 2010). At age 13, Ondra had climbed his first route graded . ''Rock & Ice'' reported that by 2011, Ondra was "onsighting 5.14c's by the handful" and, by 2013, had "more or less repeated every hard route in the world—easily". As of November 2018, Ondra had climbed 1,550 routes between grades and , of which one was a , three were , and three were onsights of . Ondra is the first climber to redpoint a route with a proposed grade of (''Silence'', 2017), the first-ever climber to redpoint a route (''Change'', 2012), ...
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