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Teufelsturm (Saxon Switzerland)
The Teufelsturm (also ''Butterweckfels'' or ''Mittagstein'') is a prominent rock tower and climbing rock formed of Elbe Sandstone, about forty metres high in Saxon Switzerland in northeastern Germany. It is located east of the River Elbe on the upper edge of the valley between Schmilka and Bad Schandau in the Schrammsteinen. The Teufelsturm is also referred to as the "Symbol of Saxon Climbing". Origin of the name The oldest name for the peak is probably ''Butterweck'' ("Bread and butter") or ''Butterweckfels'', because the summit bears a certain resemblance to a bread roll when seen from a distance, such as from the other bank of the Elbe. The name ''Teufelsturm'' was already being used by Wilhelm Leberecht Götzinger in his descriptions of Saxon Switzerland, where he mentioned it as a sundial by the farmers on the plateaux around Schöna and Reinhardtsdorf. The shadow thrown by the Teufelsturm on the rock face behind it - when seen from the direction of Reinhardtsdorf-Schön ...
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Rock Formations Of Saxon Switzerland
Rock most often refers to: * Rock (geology), a naturally occurring solid aggregate of minerals or mineraloids * Rock music, a genre of popular music Rock or Rocks may also refer to: Places United Kingdom * Rock, Caerphilly, a location in Wales * Rock, Cornwall, a village in England * Rock, County Tyrone, a village in Northern Ireland * Rock, Devon, a location in England * Rock, Neath Port Talbot, a location in Wales * Rock, Northumberland, a village in England * Rock, Somerset, a location in Wales * Rock, West Sussex, a hamlet in Washington, England * Rock, Worcestershire, a village and civil parish in England United States * Rock, Kansas, an unincorporated community * Rock, Michigan, an unincorporated community * Rock, West Virginia, an unincorporated community * Rock, Rock County, Wisconsin, a town in southern Wisconsin * Rock, Wood County, Wisconsin, a town in central Wisconsin Elsewhere * Corregidor, an island in the Philippines also known as "The Rock" * Jamaica, an isl ...
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Rudolf Fehrmann
Rudolf Fehrmann (22 June 1886 – 1947), a German, was a pioneer rock climber at Elbsandsteingebirge near Dresden. Climbing career He began climbing at the age of 17 and was soon at the leading edge of the fledgling sport. He and Oliver Perry-Smith, an American college student and fellow climber living in Dresden, became as close as brothers and formed a team which pushed the limits of risk and difficulty on the steep sandstone spires, making many first ascents. Early on, Fehrmann exerted leadership in both climbing ethics and environmental protection. He imagined the purest of climbing routes as "great lines", ascending directly up steep faces and cracks and sometimes presenting considerable difficulties, and he encouraged the use of rope-soled slippers and a minimum of metal protective devices in order to avoid destroying the fragile rock. In 1903, Fehrmann began climbing on the Schrammsteine rocks. Before long, he became one of the best mountain climbers in Saxon Switzerland ...
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Slackline
Slacklining refers to the act of walking, running or balancing along a suspended length of flat webbing that is tensioned between two anchors. Slacklining is similar to slack rope walking and tightrope walking. Slacklines differ from tightwires and tightropes in the type of material used and the amount of tension applied during use. Slacklines are tensioned significantly less than tightropes or tightwires in order to create a dynamic line which will stretch and bounce like a long and narrow trampoline. Tension can be adjusted to suit the user, and different webbing may be used in various circumstances. Styles of slacklining Urbanlining Urbanlining or urban slacklining combines all the different styles of slacklining. It is practiced in urban areas, for example in city parks and on the streets. Most urban slackliners prefer wide lines for tricklining on the streets, but some may use narrow () lines for longline purposes or for waterlining. Also see the other sections of sla ...
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Red Point
In rock climbing, redpointing means to free-climb a route while lead climbing, but only after having practiced the route beforehand (either by hangdogging or top roping), or after having fallen or rested on the rope, on the first attempt. Climbers will try to redpoint a route after having failed to on-sight it (free climb the route on the first attempt with no falls and no prior information), or flash it (free climb the route on the first attempt with no falls but with prior information). Redpointing is sometimes narrowly defined as climbing a route after a failed first attempt (regardless of how long ago, or how many failures occurred). Description Climbers can rest during a redpoint ascent, but not using the rope or any artificial aids (e.g. they can hang off the holds, or use a kneebar). Where the climber falls on a redpoint ascent, they must return to the very bottom, pull their rope free of the route, and completely re-start the ascent from scratch. Redpointing differs ...
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Bernd Arnold
Bernd Arnold (born 28 February 1947) is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He is known for more than 900 first ascents in the East German Saxon Switzerland climbing region. During the 1970s and 1980s, he established most of the hardest routes in the region and became one of the most influential German climbers of his era. He is well-known for climbing barefoot, even on very hard routes. Climbing career His first remarkable ascent was the ''Route Zehn'' (VIIIc) at Meurerturm in 1966, when he was only 19 years old. In 1970 he climbed the ''Nordwand'' at the rock tower Schwager in the Schrammsteine area and achieved a difficulty of grade IXb. This might have been the hardest free climbing route in the world at the time. First ascents such as the ''Nonplusultra'' (IXb) at Mittlerer Torstein, ''Talseite'' (IXb) at Teufelsspitze, and ''Lineal'' (IXa) at Meurerturm followed. In 1977 Arnold was the first to climb grade IXc when he achieved his first ascent of ''Direkte Superlative'' ...
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Saxon Switzerland Climbing Region
Saxon Switzerland (german: Sächsische Schweiz) is the largest and one of the best-known climbing regions in Germany, located in the Free State of Saxony. The region is largely coterminous with the natural region of the same name, Saxon Switzerland, but extends well beyond the territory of the Saxon Switzerland National Park, National Park within it. It includes the western part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains and is the oldest non-Alpine climbing region in Germany. Its history of climbing dates back to the first ascent in modern times of the Falkenstein (Saxon Switzerland), Falkenstein by Bad Schandau gymnasts in 1864. Currently, there are over 1,100 summits with more than 17,000 climbing routes in the Saxon Switzerland area. Climbing in Saxon Switzerland Climbing in Saxon Switzerland is characterized by a strong traditional climbing ethic and a number of peculiarities rarely found in other climbing regions, or at least not to the same extent. An exception are Czech Republic, ...
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Climbing Grade
In rock climbing, mountaineering, and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a grade to a climbing route or boulder problem, intended to describe concisely the difficulty and danger of climbing it. Different types of climbing (such as sport climbing, bouldering or ice climbing) each have their own grading systems, and many nationalities developed their own, distinctive grading systems. There are a number of factors that contribute to the difficulty of a climb, including the technical difficulty of the moves, the strength, stamina and level of commitment required, and the difficulty of protecting the climber. Different grading systems consider these factors in different ways, so no two grading systems have an exact one-to-one correspondence. Climbing grades are inherently subjective.Reynolds Sagar, Heather, 2007, ''Climbing your best: training to maximize your performance'', Stackpole Books, UK, 9. They may be the opinion of one or a few climbers, often the first ascensi ...
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Oliver Perry-Smith
Oliver Perry-Smith (October 11, 1884 in Philadelphia – 13 May 1969''Proceedings of the Club: Secretary report for the year 1969'', AAJ 1970, pp. 224, lines 6-8 (for pdf version, see External links)) was an American rock climber, mountaineer and skier who moved to Dresden in 1902 to attend a technical university. Climbs in Saxon Switzerland He became well known in the Sächsische Schweiz for the first ascents of major sandstone rock towers such as: *Schrammtorwächter (VI) in 1905 *Kanzelturm (VI) in 1905 * Teufelsturm (VIIb) in 1906 (at 5.8+ - with a shoulder stand - a very difficult rock climb) and first ascents of several climbing routes that are still very popular today, e. g.: *Spannagelturm Perrykante VIIb in 1906 *Falkenstein Südriss (VIIa) in 1913 *Daxenstein Klavier (VIIa) in 1913 *Daxenstein Perryriss (VIIb) in 1913 (All grades Saxon rating) In total "he made more than 90 ascents in Saxon Switzerland, 33 of which are rated VI or above; there were 32 first ascents ...
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Dolomites
The Dolomites ( it, Dolomiti ; Ladin: ''Dolomites''; german: Dolomiten ; vec, Dołomiti : fur, Dolomitis), also known as the Dolomite Mountains, Dolomite Alps or Dolomitic Alps, are a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. They form part of the Southern Limestone Alps and extend from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley (Pieve di Cadore) in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley (Italian: ''Valsugana''). The Dolomites are located in the regions of Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol and Friuli Venezia Giulia, covering an area shared between the provinces of Belluno, Vicenza, Verona, Trentino, South Tyrol, Udine and Pordenone. Other mountain groups of similar geological structure are spread along the River Piave to the east – ''Dolomiti d'Oltrepiave''; and far away over the Adige River to the west – ''Dolomiti di Brenta'' (Western Dolomites). A smaller group is called ''Piccole Dolomiti'' (Li ...
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Rock Tower
A pinnacle, tower, spire, needle or natural tower (german: Felsnadel, ''Felsturm'' or ''Felszinne'') in geology is an individual column of rock, isolated from other rocks or groups of rocks, in the shape of a vertical shaft or spire. Examples are the summits of the Aiguille du Midi in the Mont Blanc massif in France, the almost 43-metre-high Barbarine on the south side of the Pfaffenstein hill near Königstein in Germany, or the Bischofsmütze, the Drei Zinnen and the Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites, which are rich in such towers. An area of limestone formations within Nambung National Park, near the town of Cervantes, Western Australia, is known as The Pinnacles. File:Cerro Torre.jpg, Cerro Torre 3,133 m (south flank ~2,150 m), Patagonia, Argentina/Chile File:Barbarine001.jpg, The Barbarine (43 m high), Saxon Switzerland, Germany File:Vajolett-Tuerme.jpg, The Vajolet Towers 2,790 m (main tower 120 m high), South Tyrol, Italy File:TH Phang Nga - Jame ...
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