Slubbed
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Slubbed
A slub in textiles production refers to thickened areas of a fiber or yarn. Slubbed or slubby fabric is woven from slubby yarn (yarn with a very variable diameter). Both high and low slubbiness may be sought. Slubs in spun fibers may be produced deliberately by varying spinning tension (see Novelty yarns#Slub). They are also produced when short, staple fibers are spun into a single yarn. Slubs may be valued or deliberately produced for aesthetic effect, but they may also be regarded as a defect caused by either uneven spinning or using low-grade, lumpy or short-staple fiber. Types Slubby cotton fabric includes: *Madras (cloth), woven from short-staple cotton *Some denim used for jeans; the slubs cause the cloth to fade unevenly, in a pattern called Linen is often slubbed. Wool Wool is the textile fibre obtained from sheep and other mammals, especially goats, rabbits, and camelids. The term may also refer to inorganic materials, such as mineral wool and glass wool, t ...
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Dupioni
Dupioni (also referred to as douppioni or dupion) is a plain weave silk fabric, produced using fine yarn in the warp and uneven yarn reeled from two or more entangled cocoons in the weft. This creates tightly woven yardage with a highly-lustrous surface and a crisp handle. It is similar to shantung, but slightly thicker, heavier, and with a greater slub (cross-sectional irregularity) count. In Japan a cocoon containing more than one silkworm is called . Dupioni is often woven with differing colors of threads scattered through the warp and weft. This technique gives the fabric an iridescent effect, similar to but not as pronounced as shot silk taffeta. Dupioni can be woven into plaid and striped patterns; floral or other intrinsic, intricate designs are better suited for lighter-weight silks and/or those with smoother finishes, although dupioni may be embroidered in any manner desired. Along with shantung, dupioni is popular in bridal and other formal wear. It is suitable for uph ...
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Silk Noil
Noil refers to the short fibers that are removed during the combing process in spinning. These fibers are often then used for other purposes. Fibers are chosen for their length and evenness in specific spinning techniques, such as worsted. The short noil fibers are left over from combing of wool or spinning silk. Noil may be treated as a shorter-staple fiber and spun, hand-plied, or used as wadding. Noil may also be used as a decorative additive in spinning projects like rovings and yarns.Indiana Alpaca
Fiber Encyclopedia. Collected 20 Jul 2010

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Antique Satin
Antique satin, also called satin-back shantung, is any five- or eight-harness (shaft) satin weave that uses slubbed or unevenly spun yarns in the weft (filling). It is reversible in that one side is satin and the other is shantung. It is used for simulating 17th and 18th century silks, and clothing such as blouses, lingerie and evening wear. History Antique satin was developed in the 1950s by combining acetate (warp threads) and rayon (weft threads) and was used mainly as a decorative fabric for draperies. Unlike wedding satin with the shiny weave visible, antique satin has small slubs or textures on the face. The most popular yarn was known as 19/2 ply, meaning 19 threads to the inch woven as a two ply thread to create an appearance similar to silk. The most popular, highest-quality style is 48" wide and first appeared in limited colors. In the late 1950s a company named Penco Fabrics, owned by Jack Penzer and based at the drapery building, 261 Fifth Avenue, New York City, in ...
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Bourette
Bourette is a shoddy silk fabric with bumps often blended with other yarns made of Bourette fibers. The name " Bourette" is from its constituting fiber. It has a rough surface incorporating multicolored threads and knots of spun silk. The fabric is made with silk bourette and wool or cotton yarn. Bourette is a lightweight single cloth with a rough, knotty, and uneven surface. Silk waste Silk waste has many copious names wherein Floss is a general name for silk waste. Other names are 'Schappe' or 'echappe.' "Schapping" is a step of silk production of fermentation at low temperature for softening the gum. Schappe is one of the made products from Silk waste/Floss. Bourette and Florette Silk waste consists of two types, Bourette and Florette. The bourette fibers are short in length compared to the 'Florette', which are long silk fibers, suitable for products such as combed or worsted materials. Construction Bourette yarn Bourette yarn is a coarse, irregular slubbed yarn ...
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Eri Silk
Eri silk (Khasi'': Ryndia)'' is the product of the domesticated silkworm '' Samia ricini'', found mainly in North East India and some part of China and Japan. It was imported to Thailand in 1974. The name "eri" is derived from the Assamese word "era", which means "castor", as the silkworm feeds on castor plants. Another type of eri silk is "Ailanthus silk moth", refers to the host plant, Borkesseu, Ailanthus excelsa, practiced in China. Eri silk is also known as endi or errandi in India. The woolly white silk is often referred to as the fabric of peace when it is processed without killing the silkworm. This process results in a silk called Ahimsa silk. Moths leave the cocoon and then the cocoons are harvested to be spun. The eri silkworm is the only completely domesticated silkworm other than ''Bombyx mori''. Process Eri caterpillars eat a number of plants, including Kesseru. In India, it is grown in the states of Meghalaya, Assam, Nagaland, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh, Bihar, J ...
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Tussah
Tussar silk (alternatively spelled as tussah, tushar, tassar, tussore, tasar, tussur, or tusser, and also known as (Sanskrit) ''kosa'' silk) is produced from larvae of several species of silkworms belonging to the moth genus '' Antheraea'', including '' A. assamensis'', '' A. paphia'', '' A. pernyi'', '' A. roylei'', and '' A. yamamai''. These silkworms live in the wild forests in trees belonging to '' Terminalia'' species and ''Shorea robusta'', as well as other food plants such as jamun and oak found in South Asia, eating the leaves of the trees on which they live. Tussar silk is valued for its rich texture and natural, deep-gold colour, and varieties are produced in many countries, including China,Su Jing, Lun Luo, ''Landlord and Labor in Late Imperial China: Case Studies from Shandong'', Harvard University Asia Center, 1978 India, Japan, and Sri Lanka. Process To kill the silkworms, the cocoons are dried in the sun. A variation of the process exists in which the silkworms ...
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Thai Silk
Thai silk ( th, ผ้าไหมไทย, , ) is produced from the cocoons of Thai silkworms. Thailand's silkworm farmers cultivate both types of the domesticated silkworms that produce commercial silk: '' Samia ricini'', commonly known as the eri silkworm, which produces matte eri silk, and the ''Bombyx mori'', producer of the better known, glossy mulberry silk. The latter is by far the larger silk producer of the two. In Thailand, the Center for Excellence in Silk at Kasetsart University's Kamphaeng Saen campus plays a leading research role in sericulture research as well as providing silkworm eggs and know-how to Thai farmers. History After silk originated in ancient China and India, where the practice of weaving silk began around 2,640 BCE, Chinese merchants spread the use of silk throughout Asia through trade. Archaeologists found the first fibers of silk in Thailand to be over 3,000 years old in the ruins of Ban Chiang. The site is considered to be one of Southeas ...
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Meisen
is a type of silk fabric traditionally produced in Japan; it is durable, hard-faced, and somewhat stiff, with a slight sheen, and slubbiness is deliberately emphasised. was first produced in the late 19th century, and became widely popular during the 1920s and 30s (late- Taishō to early-Shōwa period), when it was mass-produced and ready-to-wear kimono began to be sold in Japan. is commonly dyed using (Japanese ikat) techniques, and features what were then overtly modern, non-traditional designs and colours. remained popular through to the 1950s. The fibre used for is staple fibre (often silk noil), degummed and sized with soy milk, which increases durability and increases the depth and brilliance of the dye colours. Between 1910 and 1925 (late Taishō to Shōwa period), the ability to spin as well as weave noil by machine (see ) was developed into mass production. Prices dropped drastically, and silk cloth and clothing was suddenly within the budget of most Japanes ...
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Tsumugi
is a traditional slub-woven silk fabric from Japan. It is a tabby weave material woven from yarn produced using silk noil, short- staple silk fibre (as opposed to material produced using longer, filament silk fibres). The short silk fibres are degummed and, traditionally, the yarns are hand-joined to form a continuous length before weaving, a technique also used for cheaper bast fibres. Yarns are joined by twisting the ends to be joined in the same direction, then twisting both ends, bundled together, in the other direction, to make a two-ply yarn at the overlap. It might alternately be loosely handspun, with few twists per unit length. Because of this structure, is rough-surfaced, soft and drapey, softening further with age. Between 1910 to 1925 (late Taishō to Shōwa era), it became common to spin as well as weave silk noil by machine (see for the technological developments that made this possible). This machine-spun cloth largely displaced as one of the cheapest s ...
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Shantung (fabric)
Shantung is a type of silk plain weave fabric historically from the province of Shandong. It is similar to Dupioni, but is slightly thinner and less irregular. Shantung is often used for bridal gowns. Structure Shantung is a fabric with a ribbed surface that is produced by long weft yarns. The surface may vary coarse to fine according to the used yarn type. The thicker yarns were used in the weft. Yarns in shantung may have knots, and bumps ( slub effects), etc. Types Originally it was made of silk only, but later locals used rayon and cotton Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants of the genus '' Gossypium'' in the mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost pure cellulose, and can contain minor pe ... Shantung also. References Silk Woven fabrics {{textile-stub ...
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Pongee
Pongee is a type of slub-woven fabric, created by weaving with yarns that have been spun by varying the tightness of the yarn's twist at various intervals. Pongee is typically made from silk, and results in a textured, "slubbed" appearance; pongee silks range from appearing similar to satin to appearing matte and unreflective. Though pongee is typically made out of silk, it can be woven from a variety of fabrics, such as cotton, linen and wool. In the early 20th century, pongee was an important export from China to the United States. Pongee is still woven in silk by many mills across China, especially along the banks of the Yangtze River at mills in Sichuan, Anhui, Zhejiang and Jiangsu provinces. Pongee varies in weight from ; lighter variants are known as Paj. Pongee types Pongee is created through weaving yarns that have been twisted unevenly at various points; the resulting fabric typically has horizontal "slubs" running along the weft Warp and weft are the t ...
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