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Perfumer
A perfumer is an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a ''nose'' (French: ''nez'') due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with compositions. At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each one alone or in combination with others. They must also know how each reveals itself over time. The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists, who compose smells and flavourants for commercial food products. Training Most past perfumers did not undergo professional training in the art, and many learned their craft as apprentices under another perfumer in their employment as technicians (in charge of blending formulas) or ch ...
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Perfume Organ, Grasse
Perfume (, ; french: parfum) is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. The 1939 Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, Leopold Ružička stated in 1945 that "right from the earliest days of scientific chemistry up to the present time, perfumes have substantially contributed to the development of organic chemistry as regards methods, systematic classification, and theory." Ancient texts and archaeological excavations show the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations. Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin or coumarin, which allowed for the composition of perfumes with smells previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics. History The word ''perfume'' derives from the Latin ''perfumare'', meaning "to smoke through". P ...
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Perfume
Perfume (, ; french: parfum) is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. The 1939 Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, Leopold Ružička stated in 1945 that "right from the earliest days of scientific chemistry up to the present time, perfumes have substantially contributed to the development of organic chemistry as regards methods, systematic classification, and theory." Ancient texts and archaeological excavations show the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations. Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin or coumarin, which allowed for the composition of perfumes with smells previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics. History The word ''perfume'' derives from the Latin ''perfumare'', meaning "to smoke through". ...
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Jean Carles
Jean Carles (12 January 1892 – 8 July 1966) was a French perfumer who worked in Roure Bertrand Fils et Justin Duppont in Grasse (now part of Givaudan) in the early 20th century. He was the founder of the Roure Perfumery School (french: De L'école de Parfumerie de Roure située à Grasse) and served as its first director in 1946. Jean Carles was also the mentor of many perfumers including Monique Schlienger and Jacques Polge. Despite becoming anosmic towards the end of his life, Carles created works such as ''Ma Griffe'' (''Carven'') and ''Miss Dior'' (''Christian Dior'') using only his memory of odours to guide him. His condition was only known to his son Marcel Carles, who assisted Jean by smelling and commenting on his creations. Due to this remarkable feat, Jean Carles is often compared to Beethoven who continued to compose music after becoming profoundly deaf. Training technique Carles also devised a training technique bearing his name (Jean Carles Method) for learnin ...
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François Coty
François Coty (born Joseph Marie François Spoturno in Corsica ; 3 May 1874 – 25 July 1934) was a French perfumer, businessman, newspaper publisher, politician and patron of the arts. He was the founder of the Coty perfume company, today a multinational. He is considered the founding father of the modern perfume industry. In 1904, his first success, fragrance ''La Rose Jacqueminot'' launched his career. He soon started exporting perfumes from France, and by 1910 he had subsidiaries in Moscow, London and New York. During the 1917 Russian Revolution, his assets in Moscow, which consisted of stocks and funds were confiscated by the Soviet government, making him a lifelong enemy of Communism. By the end of World War I, his financial success made him one of the richest men in France, allowing him to act as patron of the arts, collect works of art, historic homes and seek to play a political role. In 1922, he gained control of daily newspaper ''Le Figaro''. To check the grow ...
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Roja Dove
Roja Dove (born Roger Bird, 25 September 1956) is a British perfumer whose fragrances are sold at department stores worldwide. Born and raised in Sussex, South East England, his career in perfumery began in 1981 when he joined the French perfume house Guerlain, working there for 20 years before leaving to set up his own companies RDPR and then Roja Parfums. Early life Dove's interest in fragrance was sparked at an early age when his mother kissed him goodnight; as she lowered her head to kiss him, he was aware that her fragrance lingered in his room long after she had gone, keeping the image of her cocktail dress and the kiss alive. This interest developed whilst Dove grew up, as a teenager he spent his money purchasing small bottles of scent and was impressed that the tiny containers could contain such an overwhelming effect. Following his school days, Dove went up to University of Cambridge to study medicine. Whilst studying there he celebrated his 21st birthday with a visi ...
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Takasago International Corporation
is a major international producer of flavours and fragrances headquartered in Japan, with presence in 27 countries and regions worldwide. Takasago ranked 8th overall and 1st in Asia on the Global Top Food Flavours and Fragrances Companies list published by FoodTalks in 2021. History Takasago International Corporation was founded on 9 February 1920 as the Takasago Perfumery Company Limited. In 1938, the headquarters of Takasago was moved to Taihoku (modern-day Taipei), and in 1940, a branch office and factory were set up in Shanghai. In 1945, the Taipei headquarters and Shanghai office were taken over by Republic of China. In 1951, the Takasago Chemical Company in Taipei was closed and a new company, Takasago Chemical Industry Company was founded. The new company later changed its name to Takasago Perfumery Industry Company and merged with Takasago Perfumery Company. During the 1960s, Takasago established offices in New York City and Paris, and their headquarters were moved to ...
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Calice Becker
Calice Asancheyev-Becker (born c. 1964) is a French master perfumer and director of Givaudan Perfumery School. As of 2018 she was president of the International Society of Perfume Creators. Becker has won the Lifetime Achievement Award from The Fragrance Foundation. Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez's '' Perfumes: The Guide'' praised many of Becker's creations, including a five-star rating for Beyond Paradise (2004, a “masterful portrait of a gorgeously fresh, fictional, ideal tropical flower”), Beyond Paradise for Men, and Tommy Girl (1996), calling the latter one of the most important of all time because of its influence. Chandler Burr, perfume critic for ''The New York Times'', wrote of Becker’s 1999 creation for Dior, “It makes me think of a setting sun hitting a gold chain — gold has no scent, but if it did, it would smell like J’Adore.” List of creations * Balmain Monsieur Balmain (reformulation, 1990) * Balmain Vent Vert (reformulation, 1991) *Tommy Hilfiger Tommy ...
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International Flavors And Fragrances
International Flavors & Fragrances is an American corporation that produces flavors, fragrances, and cosmetic actives, which it markets globally. It is headquartered in New York City and has creative, sales, and manufacturing facilities in 44 different countries. The company is a member of the S&P 500 Index. History International Flavors & Fragrances was formed in 1958 by the merger between Polak & Schwarz (P&S) and van Ameringen-Haebler. Polak & Schwarz was founded in 1889 by Leopold Schwarz, who had an interest in spices, flavors, and fragrances, and his brother-in-law, Joseph Polak in the small Dutch town of Zutphen. P&S quickly grew to 36 sites globally. Arnold Louis (A.L.) van Ameringen was hired by Polak & Schwarz to open P&S's US office in 1917 before losing his job with them. Relieved of his duties, he opened van Ameringen & Co. at 13 Gold Street in Manhattan, took over Morana, Inc. in 1920, and became van Ameringen-Haebler (VAH) in 1929. Constant Cornelis (Cook) Brum ...
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Jacques Cavallier
Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud (born 24 January 1962) is a French perfumer formerly with the Swiss fragrance and flavor company Firmenich, who currently works for Louis Vuitton of the LVMH Luxury Group. He has created or collaborated in the creation of over 80 fragrances and perfumes for fashion house brands such as Parfums Christian Dior, Parfums Givenchy, Issey Miyake, Yves Saint Laurent, Fenty Beauty and Lancôme. Biography Cavallier was born in Grasse, "the capital of perfume", a town known for centuries for its manufacture of perfumes, to a family that lived in the town since the 15th century. His father and grandfather were also perfumers, and he credits as having been his greatest influences. As a child, his father trained him in the fragrances of natural raw components, and he has stated that the ingredients he considers most essential for perfumers to use include rose, agar wood, jasmine and orange flower. He began working in perfume factories in Grasse during the summers ...
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Firmenich
Firmenich SA is a private Swiss company in the fragrance and flavor business. It is the largest privately owned company in the field and ranks number two worldwide. Firmenich has created perfumes for over 125 years and produced a number of well-known flavors. Firmenich employs 10,000 people across 46 manufacturing plants and six research and development centers. Major competitors include Givaudan, International Flavors and Fragrances and Symrise. In 2021, Firmenich was ranked second on FoodTalks' Global Top 50 Food Flavours and Fragrances Companies list, below Givaudan and above International Flavors and Fragrances. History The company was founded as Chuit & Naef in 1895 in Geneva by chemist Philippe Chuit and businessman Martin Naef. Fred Firmenich joined in 1900 and later became the majority partner. The company was renamed Firmenich SA. Originally a fragrance company, Firmenich branched into the flavor business by creating a raspberry substitute in 1938, followed by crea ...
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ISIPCA
ISIPCA (''Institut supérieur international du parfum, de la cosmétique et de l'aromatique alimentaire'') is a French school for post-graduate studies in perfume, cosmetics products and food flavor formulation, with an apprenticeship period in the industry. It was founded in 1970 by Jean-Jacques Guerlain as ''ISIP'' (Institut supérieur international du parfum). It became ''Groupe ISIPCA'' in 1984 when the ''CCIV'' (Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Versailles-Val-d'Oise-Yvelines) backed up and sponsored the school with significant capital. From 2004 to 2017, ISIPCA and UVSQ ( University of Versailles) had established a partnership in order to offer postgraduate programmes (Bachelor's degree Diplomas and Professional Masters) in perfumery, cosmetics and food flavoring. The school is affiliated with the Osmothèque, a perfume archive that researches ancient perfumes, and reconstructs fragrances whose formulas have been lost. The facilities are a mix of renovated ancien ...
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Ernest Beaux
Ernest Beaux ( – 9 June 1961) was a Russian-born French perfumer who is best known for creating Chanel No. 5, which is perhaps the world's most famous perfume. Family background Born in Moscow, Ernest Beaux was the son of Edouard Hyppolite Beaux (1835–1899) and his second wife Augustine Wilgemina Misfeld (1843–1906), who was originally from Lille, France. Ernest Beaux's grandmother, Jeanne-Cléophée Beaux (1810–1882), had come to Russia at the beginning of the 1840s. Édouard-Hyppolyte was her son with Jean Joseph Messinger (1810–1848). Edouard Francois Beaux (1862–?), Ernest Beaux's half-brother by his father's first wife, Adelaide Fiurth (1842–1879), began as a clerk with the Moscow trading house of Muir and Mirrielees. He joined A. Rallet & Co., ultimately becoming a member of the board and Deputy Administrator. Career Ernest Beaux was born in Moscow, Russia, the brother of Edouard Beaux, who worked for Alphonse Rallet & Co. of Moscow, then the foremost R ...
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