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Paul Poiret
Paul Poiret (20 April 1879 – 30 April 1944, Paris, France) was a French fashion designer, a master couturier during the first two decades of the 20th century. He was the founder of his namesake haute couture house. Early life and career Poiret was born on 20 April 1879 to a cloth merchant in the poor neighborhood of Les Halles, Paris. Bowles, Hamish. "Fashioning the Century." ''Vogue'' (May 2007): 236–250. condensed version of this articleappears online. His older sister, Jeanne, would later become a jewelry designer. Poiret's parents, in an effort to rid him of his natural pride, apprenticed him to an umbrella maker. There, he collected scraps of silk left over from the cutting of umbrella patterns, and fashioned clothes for a doll that one of his sisters had given him. While a teenager, Poiret took his sketches to Louise Chéruit, a prominent dressmaker, who purchased a dozen from him. Poiret continued to sell his drawings to major Parisian couture houses, until ...
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Haute Couture
''Haute couture'' (; ; French for 'high sewing', 'high dressmaking') is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design that is constructed by hand from start-to-finish. Beginning in the mid-nineteenth century, Paris became the centre of a growing industry that focused on making outfits from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable of sewers—often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. ''Couture'' translates literally from French as "dressmaking", sewing, or needlework and is also used as a common abbreviation of ''haute couture'' and can often refer to the same thing in spirit. ''Haute'' translates literally to "high". An haute couture garment is always made for an individual client, tailored specifically for the wearer's measurements and body stance. Considering the amount of time, money, and skill allotted to each completed piece, haute couture garment ...
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Leonilla Bariatinskaya
Princess Leonilla Ivanovna Baryatinskaya, Princess of Sayn-Wittgenstein-Sayn (russian: link=no, Леонилла Ивановна Барятинская; 9 May 1816 – 1 February 1918) was a Russian aristocrat who married Ludwig, Prince of Sayn-Wittgenstein-Sayn. She was the subject of a number of portraits by Franz Xaver Winterhalter. Life and family Princess Leonilla Ivanovna Baryatinskaya was born on 9 May 1816 in Moscow. She was a daughter of Prince Ivan Ivanovich Baryatinsky (1772-1825), a member of one of the most influential families of the Russian nobility, and son of Princess Catherine of Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Beck. Her mother was Countess Marie Wilhelmine von Keller (1792-1858), daughter of Count Christoph von Keller (1757-1827), a German diplomat, and Countess Amalie Louise zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Ludwigsburg (1771-1853), sister of Field Marshal Prince Peter zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg-Ludwigsburg. On 23 October 1834, Leonilla married her cousin and on ...
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Galerie Barbazanges
The Galerie Barbazanges was an art gallery in Paris that exhibited contemporary art between 1911 and 1928. The building was owned by a wealthy fashion designer, Paul Poiret, and the gallery was used for Poiret's "Salon d'Antin" exhibitions. The gallery showed the work of avant-garde artists such as Picasso, Modigliani, Gauguin, Matisse, Chagall, and Dufy. History In 1911 Henri Barbazanges rented part of the property at 109 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré from his friend, the fashion designer Paul Poiret, and opened the Gallery Barbazanges with financial assistance from L. C. Hodebert. The gallery would exhibit contemporary art. The building was beside Poiret's eighteenth century mansion at 26 Avenue d'Antin. The Galerie Barbazanges leased the ground floor, with a total area of about . Behind the front room there were a number of smaller rooms leading to a room without windows, but with a glass roof high. This large back room may have been built by Barbazanges when he took control i ...
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Henri Alméras
Henri Alméras (1892 – 1965) was a French perfumer, author, and painter. Early life and career Alméras was born in a garrison in Brittany, the son of an officer. In school, he excelled in chemistry. He performed his military service in 1913 and was sent to war the following year.René Chavance. “Alméras ou le parfumeur.” Industrie de la parfumerie. 4.8 Aug. 1949: 299-301. Print. While fighting on the Macedonian front, he first met the couturier Jean Patou. Upon returning to France, he worked briefly at the physics laboratory at Dunlop, before answering an advertisement in ''Le Journal'' to join Antoine Chiris in Grasse. There he trained as a perfumer for four years alongside Ernest Beaux and Vincent Roubert. He left for Germany, working at a manufactory in the Ruhr, but soon returned to France. He was employed as a perfumer by Paul Poiret at the couturier's Parfums de Rosine as of 1923, though certain sources suggest he had worked there since 1914. In 1925, he left Rosin ...
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Callot Soeurs
Callot Soeurs () was one of the leading fashion design houses of the 1910s and 1920s. Origins Callot Soeurs opened in 1895 at 24, rue Taitbout in Paris, France. It was operated by the four Callot sisters: Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Bertrand, Regina Callot Tennyson-Chantrell and Joséphine Callot Crimon. The eldest sister, Marie, was trained in dressmaking, having earlier worked for Raudnitz and Co., prominent Parisian dressmakers, and they were all taught by their mother, a lacemaker. The sisters began working with antique laces and ribbons to enhance blouses and lingerie. Their success led to an expansion into other clothing. In 1897, Joséphine was rumored to have committed suicide. There is no substantiated proof and family members believe her death was accidental. Growth and peak In 1900, they were featured at the Paris World's Fair. That year, they had a staff of two hundred and did two million francs in sales. By 1901, they had tripled their workforce and d ...
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Jeanne Lanvin
Jeanne-Marie Lanvin (; 1 January 1867 – 6 July 1946) was a French haute couture fashion designer. She founded the Lanvin fashion house and the beauty and perfume company Lanvin Parfums. Early life Jeanne Lanvin was born in Paris on 1 January 1867, the eldest of 11 children of Constantin Lanvin and Sophie Deshayes. She became an apprentice milliner at Madame Félix in Paris at the age of 16. She trained with Suzanne Talbot and Caroline Montagne Roux before becoming a milliner on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in 1889. Career In 1909, Lanvin joined the '' Syndicat de la Couture'' ( fr), which marked her formal status as a couturière. The clothing Lanvin made for her daughter began to attract the attention of a number of wealthy people who requested copies for their own children. Soon, Lanvin was making dresses for their mothers, and some of the most famous names in Europe were included in the clientele of her new boutique on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris. ...
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Charles Worth
Charles Frederick Worth (13 October 1825 – 10 March 1895) was an English fashion designer who founded the House of Worth, one of the foremost fashion houses of the 19th and early 20th centuries. He is considered by many fashion historians to be the father of haute couture. Worth is also credited with revolutionising the business of fashion. Established in Paris in 1858, his fashion salon soon attracted European royalty, and where they led monied society followed. An innovative designer, he adapted 19th-century dress to make it more suited to everyday life, with some changes said to be at the request of his most prestigious client Empress Eugénie. He was the first to replace the fashion dolls with live models in order to promote his garments to clients, and to sew branded labels into his clothing; almost all clients visited his salon for a consultation and fitting – thereby turning the House of Worth into a society meeting point. By the end of his career, his fashion house e ...
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Redfern (couture)
Redfern & Sons (later Redfern Ltd) was a British tailoring firm founded by John Redfern (1820-1895) in Cowes on the Isle of Wight that developed into a leading European couture house (active: 1855–1932; 1936–1940). By the early 1890s the business had branches in London, Edinburgh, Paris and New York. The Paris extension was operated as a couture establishment while its other branches functioned primarily as tailors and importers. History John Redfern (11 November 1820 – 22 November 1895) started out as a tailor in Cowes in 1855, following in the sartorial footsteps of his father, also John Redfern, who first opened a Cowes specialty clothing shop in 1811."1890 Doll"
in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum, New York; ''Harper's Bazaar'', October 1916, p. 37
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Jeanne Paquin
Jeanne Paquin () (1869–1936) was a leading French fashion designer, known for her resolutely modern and innovative designs. She was the first major female couturier and one of the pioneers of the modern fashion business. Early life Jeanne Paquin was born Jeanne Marie Charlotte Beckers in 1869. Her father was a physician. She was one of five children. Sent out to work as a young teenager, Jeanne trained as a dressmaker at Rouff (a Paris couture house established in 1884 and located on Boulevard Haussmann). She quickly rose through to ranks becoming première, in charge of the atelier. In 1891, Jeanne Marie Charlotte Beckers married Isidore René Jacob, who was also known as Paquin. Isidore owned Paquin Lalanne et cie, a couture house which had grown out of a menswear shop in the 1840s. The couple renamed the company Paquin and set about building the business. The House of Paquin under Jeanne In 1891, Jeanne and Isidore Paquin opened their Maison de Couture at 3 Rue de la ...
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Georges Doeuillet
Georges Camille Doeuillet was born 16 July 1865 in Oise, Northern France.Ancestry.com. Paris & Vicinity, France Electoral Rolls, 1891 [database on-line]. Provo, UT, USA: Ancestry.com Operations Inc, 2008. Original data: Archives électorales: Electeurs 1891. He became one of France's best known couturiers along with his peers Louise Chéruit, Jeanne Paquin, Paul Poiret, Redfern (couture), Redfern & Sons and the Charles Worth, House of Charles Worth.TROY, N. J. (2003). Couture culture: A study in modern art and fashion. p. 188. Cambridge, Mass, MIT Press. Biography Early career Early in his career, Doeuillet worked as a business manager at the fashion house of Callot Soeurs, where he was known for being ardent in business. At Callot Soeurs, he was responsible for discovering Madeleine Vionnet who undertook an apprenticeship at the house prior to establishing her own fashion house Vionnet (company), Vionnet. In 1900, Doeuillet opened his maison at 18 Place Vendôme in Paris, France ...
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La Gazette Du Bon Ton
The ''Gazette du Bon Ton'' was a small but influential fashion magazine published in France from 1912 to 1925.Davis48 Founded by Lucien Vogel, the short-lived publication reflected the latest developments in fashion, lifestyle and beauty during a period of revolutionary change in art and society. Distributed by Condé Nast, the magazine was issued as the ''Gazette du Bon Genre'' in the USA.Antique Print Club, ''Gazette du Bon Ton : "Etes-vous pret?"'' (1913)
re: "''Gazette du Bon Ton ..., published by Lucien Vogel in Paris between 1912 and 1925... and distributed by Condé Nast. Distributed in the U.S. as ''Gazette du Bon Genre'', both titles translate roughly as Journal of the Good Style.''"
Both titles roughly tr ...
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Fashion Photography
Fashion photography is a genre of photography which is devoted to displaying clothing and other fashion items, sometimes haute couture. It typically consists of a fashion photographer taking a picture of a dressed model in a photographic studio or an outside setting. It originates from the clothing and fashion industries, and while some of fashion photography has been elevated as art, it is still primarily used for clothing, perfumes and beauty products. Fashion photography is most often conducted for advertisements or fashion magazines such as ''Vogue'', '' Vanity Fair'', or ''Elle''. It has grown into becoming a necessary way for designers to get their work out to the public. Fashion photography has developed its own aesthetic in which the clothes and fashions are enhanced by the presence of exotic locations or accessories. The history of this photographic discipline was intertwined for its first decades with the fashion magazines in which the photographs originated, supplantin ...
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