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1954 Italian Expedition To K2
On 31 July 1954, Italian climbers Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli became the first people to reach the summit of K2, the second highest mountain in the world after Mount Everest, which had been summited for the first time the previous year. The expedition was led by Ardito Desio. There had been three earlier unsuccessful American attempts on the mountain but they had identified a good route to use. Desio felt Italy's earlier exploration of the Karakoram region gave good reason to mount a major expedition which he did on a grand scale, following the American route up the south-east ridge. Progress towards the summit was repeatedly interrupted by storms and one member of the team died rather unexpectedly. Desio considered abandoning the expedition so as to try again by returning later in the year, but then weather conditions improved allowing them to edge closer to the top of the mountain. At last the two lead climbers reached the summit as the sun was about to set and the ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
List Of Deaths On Eight-thousanders
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains that rise more than above sea level; they are all in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges. This is a list of mountaineers who have died on these mountains. Mount Everest Mount Everest, Earth's highest mountain, has been host to numerous tragedies; over 300 have died on the mountain, with deaths occurring every year since 1978, excluding 2020 when permits were not issued due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The most notable events occurred during the 1922 British Mount Everest Expedition, 1970 Everest Disaster, 1974 Everest Disaster, 1996 Everest Disaster, 2014 Mount Everest avalanche, and 2015 Mount Everest avalanches. K2 K2 is the world's second highest mountain. While its summit is at a lower altitude than the summit of Mount Everest, it is considered to be a much harder mountain to climb, due to its steep faces, and extreme weather. As of February 2021, 377 people have completed a summit of the mountain, while 91 hav ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
1953 American Karakoram Expedition
The 1953 American Karakoram expedition was a mountaineering expedition to K2, at 8,611 metres the second highest mountain on Earth. It was the fifth expedition to attempt K2, and the first since the Second World War. Led by Charles Houston, a mainly American team attempted the mountain's South-East Spur (commonly known as the Abruzzi Spur) in a style which was unusually lightweight for the time. The team reached a high point of 7750 m, but were trapped by a storm in their high camp, where a team member, Art Gilkey, became seriously ill. A desperate retreat down the mountain followed, during which all but one of the climbers were nearly killed in a fall arrested by Pete Schoening, and Gilkey later died in an apparent avalanche. The expedition has been widely praised for the courage shown by the climbers in their attempt to save Gilkey, and for the team spirit and the bonds of friendship it fostered. Background By 1953, four expeditions had attempted to climb K2. Oscar Ecken ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Achille Compagnoni
Achille Compagnoni (26 September 1914 – 13 May 2009) was an Italian mountaineer and skier. Together with Lino Lacedelli on 31 July 1954 he was in the first party to reach the summit of K2. Biography Compagnoni was born in Santa Caterina di Valfurva, Sondrio, Lombardy. On the successful K2 expedition, Compagnoni's decision to place the final camp (IX) at a higher location than formerly agreed was a source of controversy. Compagnoni alleged that Walter Bonatti had used some of the oxygen supply intended for the summit, causing it to run out on summit day. Walter Bonatti disputed this, and was cleared in the Italian courts in 1964. Bonatti and Hunza climber, Amir Mehdi, climbed up to deliver oxygen to Compagnoni and Lacedeilli for their summit attempt. It was an epic climb with the weight of the oxygen bottles at that altitude and both men were exhausted. Bonatti and Mehdi arrived in failing light at a point on the "shoulder" at where the team had agreed to place camp IX. ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Lino Lacedelli
Lino Lacedelli (4 December 1925 – 20 November 2009) was an Italian mountaineer. Together with Achille Compagnoni, on 31 July 1954 he was the first man to reach the summit of K2. Early life Lacedelli was born in Cortina d'Ampezzo. His climbing career began as a young teenager when he followed a mountain guide up a local summit. He soon came under the tutelage of Luigi 'Bibi' Ghedina, one of the best Dolomite rock climbers of the age. In 1946 he was accepted into the prestigious ''Cortina Squirrels'' club. Lacedelli was known for fast ascents of difficult routes, including: the ''Constantini-Apollonio South Face Direct'' (500 m V+ A2) on the Pilastro di Rozes (repeat with Ghedina); the first ascent of the ''Southwest Face'' of Cima Scotoni (Fanis Group) with Guido Lorenzi; first one-day ascent of the ''Solda Route'' on the SW Face of the Marmolada di Penia (with Lorenzi); and the fourth ascent of the ''Gabriel-Livanos Diedre'' on the Cima su Alto with Beniamino Franceschi. In ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Lino Lacedelli
Lino Lacedelli (4 December 1925 – 20 November 2009) was an Italian mountaineer. Together with Achille Compagnoni, on 31 July 1954 he was the first man to reach the summit of K2. Early life Lacedelli was born in Cortina d'Ampezzo. His climbing career began as a young teenager when he followed a mountain guide up a local summit. He soon came under the tutelage of Luigi 'Bibi' Ghedina, one of the best Dolomite rock climbers of the age. In 1946 he was accepted into the prestigious ''Cortina Squirrels'' club. Lacedelli was known for fast ascents of difficult routes, including: the ''Constantini-Apollonio South Face Direct'' (500 m V+ A2) on the Pilastro di Rozes (repeat with Ghedina); the first ascent of the ''Southwest Face'' of Cima Scotoni (Fanis Group) with Guido Lorenzi; first one-day ascent of the ''Solda Route'' on the SW Face of the Marmolada di Penia (with Lorenzi); and the fourth ascent of the ''Gabriel-Livanos Diedre'' on the Cima su Alto with Beniamino Franceschi. In ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Nirmal Purja
Nirmal Purja (known as Nims or Nimsdai) ( ne, निर्मल पुर्जा; born 25 July 1983) is a Nepal-born naturalised British mountaineer and a holder of multiple mountaineering world records. Prior to taking on a career in mountaineering, he served in the British Army with the Brigade of Gurkhas followed by the Special Boat Service (SBS), the special forces unit of the Royal Navy. Purja is notable for having climbed all 14 eight-thousanders (peaks above ) in a record time of six months and six days with the aid of bottled oxygen. He was also the first to reach the summits of Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within 48 hours. In 2021, Purja, along with a team of nine other Nepalese mountaineers, completed the first-ever winter ascent of K2. Early life Nirmal ("Nims") Purja was born in July 1983 in Dana, a small village in Nepal's Myagdi district near Dhaulagiri, at 1,600 m above sea level. At age 4, his family moved lower down to the Chitwan District near Kathman ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Karakoram
The Karakoram is a mountain range in Kashmir region spanning the borders of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwest extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range falls under the jurisdiction of Gilgit-Baltistan, which is controlled by Pakistan. Its highest peak (and List of highest mountains on Earth#List of world's highest peaks, world's second-highest), K2, is located in Gilgit-Baltistan. It begins in the Wakhan Corridor (Afghanistan) in the west, encompasses the majority of Gilgit-Baltistan, and extends into Ladakh (controlled by India) and Aksai Chin (controlled by China). It is the Greater Ranges, second-highest mountain range in the world and part of the complex of ranges including the Pamir Mountains, the Hindu Kush and the Himalayas, Himalayan Mountains. The Karakoram has eighteen summits over in height, with four exceeding : K2, the second-highest peak in the world at , Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and Gashe ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
List Of Highest Mountains On Earth
Currently, There are at least 108 mountains on Earth with elevations of or greater above sea level. The vast majority of these mountains are located on the edge of the Indian plate, Indian and Eurasian plate, Eurasian plates in China, India, Nepal and Pakistan. The dividing line between a mountain with multiple peaks and separate mountains is not always clear (see also Highest unclimbed mountain). A popular and intuitive way to distinguish mountains from subsidiary peaks is by their height above the highest saddle connecting it to a higher summit, a measure called topographic prominence or re-ascent (the higher summit is called the "parent peak"). A common definition of a mountain is a summit with prominence. Alternatively, a relative prominence (prominence/height) is used (usually 7–8%) to reflect that in higher mountain ranges everything is on a larger scale. The table below lists the highest 100 summits with at least prominence, approximating a 7% relative prominence ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
List Of Mountain Peaks By Prominence
This is a list of mountain peaks ordered by their topographic prominence. Terminology The prominence of a peak is the minimum height of climb to the summit on any route from a higher peak, or from sea level if there is no higher peak. The lowest point on that route is the col. For full definitions and explanations of ''topographic prominence'', ''key col'', and ''parent'', see topographic prominence. In particular, the different definitions of the parent of a peak are addressed at length in that article. ''Height'' on the other hand simply means elevation of the summit above sea level. Regarding parents, the ''prominence parent'' of peak A can be found by dividing the island or region in question into territories, by tracing the runoff from the key col (mountain pass) of every peak that is more prominent than peak A. The parent is the peak whose territory peak A resides in. The ''encirclement parent'' is found by tracing the contour below peak A's key col and picking the highe ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Eight-thousander
The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and, since 2012, the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone. From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is consistently Annapurna I (one death – climber or climber support – for e ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow height) of was most recently established in 2020 by the Chinese and Nepali authorities. Mount Everest attracts many climbers, including highly experienced mountaineers. There are two main climbing routes, one approaching the summit from the southeast in Nepal (known as the "standard route") and the other from the north in Tibet. While not posing substantial technical climbing challenges on the standard route, Everest presents dangers such as altitude sickness, weather, and wind, as well as hazards from avalanches and the Khumbu Icefall. , over 300 people have died on Everest, many of whose bodies remain on the mountain. The first recorded efforts to reach Everest's summit were made by British mountaineers. As Nepal did not allow foreigners ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
