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Guerlain
Guerlain () is a French perfume, cosmetics and skincare house, which is among the oldest in the world. Many traditional Guerlain fragrances are characterized by a common olfactory accord known as the "Guerlinade" (fr). The house was founded in Paris in 1828 by the perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. It was run by the Guerlain family until 1994, when it was bought by the French multinational company LVMH. Its flagship store is 68, Avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris. History The House of Guerlain was owned and managed by members of the Guerlain family from its inception in 1828 to 1994. It was acquired in 1994 by the LVMH group, a French multinational investment corporation specializing in luxury brands. Beginning The House of Guerlain was founded in 1828, when Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain opened his perfume store at 42, rue de Rivoli in Paris. As both the founder and first perfumer of the house, Pierre-François composed and manufactured custom fragrances with the ...
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Jacques Guerlain
Jacques Edouard Guerlain (; 7 October 1874 – 2 May 1963) was a French perfumer, the third and most famous of the Guerlain family. One of the most prolific and influential perfumers of the 20th century, over eighty of Guerlain's perfumes remain known, though certain estimates suggest he composed some four hundred. Among his greatest fragrances are ''L’Heure Bleue'' (1912), ''Mitsouko'' (1919) and ''Shalimar (perfume), Shalimar'' (1925). Though his work earned him universal renown, a considerable fortune and honours such as that of Chevalier of the Legion of Honour, Guerlain avoided public attention, never once granting an interview. As a result, relatively little is known of his creative process or personal life. Many of his major works are archived in their original form at the Osmothèque, donated by Thierry Wasser on behalf of Guerlain in 2014. Biography Early life Jacques Guerlain, the second child of Gabriel and Clarisse Guerlain, was born in 1874 in the family vi ...
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Guerlain David Jones Elizabeth Street 2013
Guerlain () is a French perfume, cosmetics and skincare house, which is among the oldest in the world. Many traditional Guerlain fragrances are characterized by a common olfactory accord known as the "Guerlinade" (fr). The house was founded in Paris in 1828 by the perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. It was run by the Guerlain family until 1994, when it was bought by the French multinational company LVMH. Its flagship store is 68, Avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris. History The House of Guerlain was owned and managed by members of the Guerlain family from its inception in 1828 to 1994. It was acquired in 1994 by the LVMH group, a French multinational investment corporation specializing in luxury brands. Beginning The House of Guerlain was founded in 1828, when Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain opened his perfume store at 42, rue de Rivoli in Paris. As both the founder and first perfumer of the house, Pierre-François composed and manufactured custom fragrances with t ...
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Shalimar (perfume)
Shalimar is a perfume originally created by Jacques Guerlain in 1921 for French perfume and cosmetics house Guerlain. In production continuously since 1925, Shalimar is currently a flagship product for Guerlain. History Shalimar was created by perfumer Jacques Guerlain in 1921, but after another company claimed to already have a fragrance by the same name, Guerlain was forced to rename the fragrance "No. 90" until a legal dispute over the name was settled. Shalimar was re-released in 1925 at the International Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts. Jacques Guerlain was inspired by Mumtaz Mahal, the wife of Shah Jahan, Mughal emperor of India, and for whom the Taj Mahal in Agra and the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore were built. The harmony of Shalimar was created when Jacques Guerlain poured a bottle of ethylvanillin into a bottle of Jicky, a fragrance created by Guerlain in 1889. Raymond Guerlain designed the bottle for Shalimar, which was modeled after the basins o ...
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Anne-Marie Saget
Anne-Marie Saget (born September 14, 1953) is a French perfumer. She is an influential creator and leading authority on aromatic raw materials of natural origin. She began her career at Guerlain, working alongside Jean-Paul Guerlain with whom she created classic perfumes including ''Nahema'' (1979), ''Derby'' (1985) and ''Samsara'' (1989). Her subsequent work at Mane SA and International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) saw her specialize in the trade of natural materials. She later sourced rare perfumery, cosmetic and aroma-therapeutic ingredients from the Himalayas and Southeast Asia, assisting communities there to ensure fair trade, sustainable development and geographic protectionism. Biography Early life and background Anne-Marie Saget was born in Dijon. Her father was fighter pilot Jean-Marie Saget. As an adolescent, she became interested in perfumery but was soon discouraged; the industry was largely misogynistic and nepotistic, with little place for those born outside ...
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Jicky
Jicky is a perfume originally created by Aimé Guerlain in 1889 for French perfume and cosmetics house Guerlain. Introduced in 1889, it is the oldest continuously-produced perfume in the world. History Jicky was one of the first perfumes created with the addition of synthetic materials, and was the first abstract perfume in history, meaning it is not based on a single note. Its perfume notes include: spice, lemon, lavender, wood and vanilla. Its stopper is shaped like a champagne Champagne (, ) is a sparkling wine originated and produced in the Champagne wine region of France under the rules of the appellation, that demand specific vineyard practices, sourcing of grapes exclusively from designated places within it, ... cork. Jicky was the nickname of Aimé Guerlain's nephew, Jacques Guerlain, and according to legend, was also the pet name of Aimé's girlfriend from his time studying in England. See also * Mitsouko * Shalimar, the flagship fragrance of perfum ...
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Thierry Wasser
Thierry Wasser is a contemporary perfumer who as of 2008 was appointed as the in-house perfumer of Guerlain. Prior to this he worked under the fragrance firms Firmenich and Givaudan. After attaining his Federal Diploma of Botany at age twenty, Wasser attended the Givaudan perfumery school and was promoted to perfumer at twenty four after a period of apprenticeship. He joined Firmenich in 1993. Here he collaborated extensively with Annick Ménardo in numerous fragrances. His work includes collaborating with Jean Paul Guerlain in the creation of perfumes. Works Thierry Wasser has created many notable perfumes including: *Addict, Christian Dior *Fuel for Life for Her, Diesel *Quand Vient La Pluie, Guerlain *Hypnose, Lancôme *Idylle, Guerlain *Aqua Allegoria: Flora Nymphea, Guerlain *Man absolute, Jil Sander *La Petite Robe Noire, Guerlain *L'Homme Ideal, Guerlain Guerlain () is a French perfume, cosmetics and skincare house, which is among the oldest in the world. Many traditional ...
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Mitsouko
Mitsouko is a perfume by French perfume and cosmetics house Guerlain, created by Jacques Guerlain and first introduced in 1919. Its name is derived from the French transliteration of a Japanese female personal name Mitsuko. It is a fruity chypre whose top notes include bergamot, its middle notes peach, rose, iris, clove, and jasmine, and its base notes vetiver, oakmoss, and labdanum. History Mitsouko was created by perfumer Jacques Guerlain in 1919. The perfume has remained continuously available ever since. Mitsouko is preserved in its original 1919 formulation in the archives of the Osmothèque, donated to the collection by Guerlain in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser. It has been re-formulated several times in the modern era. It was a favorite fragrance of Charlie Chaplin, Ingrid Bergman, Jean Harlow, Sergei Diaghilev, and Anais Nin. Name There is no definitive information on the origin of the name. One account of the origin of the name is that it was inspired ...
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Mitsouko (perfume)
Mitsouko is a perfume by French perfume and cosmetics house Guerlain, created by Jacques Guerlain and first introduced in 1919. Its name is derived from the French transliteration of a Japanese female personal name Mitsuko. It is a fruity chypre whose top notes include bergamot, its middle notes peach, rose, iris, clove, and jasmine, and its base notes vetiver, oakmoss, and labdanum. History Mitsouko was created by perfumer Jacques Guerlain in 1919. The perfume has remained continuously available ever since. Mitsouko is preserved in its original 1919 formulation in the archives of the Osmothèque, donated to the collection by Guerlain in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser. It has been re-formulated several times in the modern era. It was a favorite fragrance of Charlie Chaplin, Ingrid Bergman, Jean Harlow, Sergei Diaghilev, and Anais Nin. Name There is no definitive information on the origin of the name. One account of the origin of the name is that it was inspired by the ...
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Patricia De Nicolaï
Patricia de Nicolaï is a French perfumer who works as the head of her own perfume company Parfums de Nicolai. She is also a member of the technical committee of the French Society of Perfumers and the president of the Osmothèque scent archive. Early life and education Patricia de Nicolaï was born in Paris, France into the Guerlain perfumer family and is the great-granddaughter of Pierre Guerlain and niece of Jean-Paul Guerlain. After studying chemistry in university, de Nicolai entered and studied at ISIPCA, the renowned school of perfumery in Versailles. Career Even with a degree as junior perfumer, de Nicolaï was faced with gender discrimination by the perfume industry of the time as she began her search for employment. With the help of her uncle Jean-Paul Guerlain, she was able to start working first at Florasynth (1982–1984) and then Quest International (1984–1989), where in the latter she worked on the Lancôme Trésor perfume (1990) with Sophia Grojsman. Following ...
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Mathilde Laurent
Mathilde Laurent is a French perfumer. After studying perfumery at ISIPCA in Versailles, Laurent began her career as an apprentice to Jean-Paul Guerlain. She went on to work at Guerlain for 11 years. Since 2006, she has been the in-house perfumer for Cartier, creating perfumes like Baiser Volé. Early life Born to a family of artists, Laurent grew up in the Montparnasse neighborhood of Paris, near the railroad tracks. She earned a degree ( DEUG) in chemistry and physics, then attended the Institut supérieur international du parfum, de la cosmétique et de l'aromatique alimentaire (ISIPCA) in Versailles, encouraged by a family friend who'd heard about the school on the news and immediately thought of Laurent's habit of "encountering the world nose first, whether to describe a plate of food or the atmosphere of a new house". Career Guerlain At a school event, Laurent approached Jean-Paul Guerlain, then the head perfumer of the Guerlain family succession of perfumers, and asked ...
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Maurice Roucel
Maurice Roucel. Photo: Guillaume Luisetti. Maurice Roucel is a contemporary French perfumer who has worked at the companies IFF, Quest, Dragoco and presently Symrise. Roucel began his career in perfumery on February 19, 1973, while working as the head chromatography chemist at Chanel for 6 years. He commenced his apprenticeship under Henri Robert, Chanel's house perfumer at the time. He joined Quest International and for 12 years developed his craft as a perfumer before switching to work for Symrise in 1996. Most of the fragrances composed by Roucel have his signature scent of '' Michelia longifolia''. He was also the winner of various accolades in the fragrance industry including the Prix François Coty in 2002, and the French and American FiFi as well as the French "Oscar des Parfums" Awards. List of creations Maurice Roucel has created perfumes including: * Envy for Gucci 1997 * 24 Faubourg for Hermès 1995 * Iris Silver Mist for Serge Lutens 1994 * K de Krizia 1981 * Tocad ...
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L'Heure Bleue
''L'Heure Bleue'' is an album by trumpeter/flugelhornist Franz Koglmann which was recorded in Austria and Switzerland in 1991 and released on the Swiss HatART label.Discogs album entry
accessed May 29, 2017


Reception

The review by Thom Jurek states: "This intimacy, this quiet brilliance and restraint that Koglmann shows here on his works -- some of which were initially written for and performed by the Pipetet -- is a statement not only of how versed the man is in the traditions of jazz and classical music but just how aware he is of his own mates' musical strengths".


Track listing

All compositions by Franz Koglmann except where no ...
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