Flemish Lace
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Flemish Lace
Flanders lace (point de Flandres) was made in Flanders, which was particularly well known for its bobbin lace. The supreme epoch of Flemish lace lasted from about 1550-1750. The lacemaking areas of Antwerp, Mechlin, Binche and Valenciennes are regarded as Flemish. They made mesh ground continuous lace. Brussels made part lace which is non-continuous. The ground Old Flanders lace began by making Torchon lace, then used early five-hole ground. Today, the term Flanders lace is more usually applied to a late 19th century revival of the five-hole grounded lace. Classical variations have pairs crossing at the tips of the rectangles, a modern variation crosses just threads what creates a more rectangular impression. Modern variations also use less pins at the headside and footside. Both changes make the modern interpretation slightly quicker to create but also more vulnerable, but modern lacemakers tend to frame their work rather than apply it on clothing. The similar rose ground ...
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Flanders
Flanders (, ; Dutch: ''Vlaanderen'' ) is the Flemish-speaking northern portion of Belgium and one of the communities, regions and language areas of Belgium. However, there are several overlapping definitions, including ones related to culture, language, politics, and history, and sometimes involving neighbouring countries. The demonym associated with Flanders is Fleming, while the corresponding adjective is Flemish. The official capital of Flanders is the City of Brussels, although the Brussels-Capital Region that includes it has an independent regional government. The powers of the government of Flanders consist, among others, of economic affairs in the Flemish Region and the community aspects of Flanders life in Brussels, such as Flemish culture and education. Geographically, Flanders is mainly flat, and has a small section of coast on the North Sea. It borders the French department of Nord to the south-west near the coast, the Dutch provinces of Zeeland, North Brabant an ...
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Bobbin Lace
Bobbin lace is a lace textile made by braiding and twisting lengths of thread, which are wound on bobbins to manage them. As the work progresses, the weaving is held in place with pins set in a lace pillow, the placement of the pins usually determined by a pattern or pricking pinned on the pillow. Bobbin lace is also known as pillow lace, because it was worked on a pillow, and bone lace, because early bobbins were made of bone or ivory. Bobbin lace is one of the two major categories of handmade laces, the other being needle lace, derived from earlier cutwork and reticella. Origin A will of 1493 by the Milanese Sforza family mentions lace created with twelve bobbins. There are two books that represent the early known pattern descriptions for bobbin lace, ''Le Pompe'' from Venice and ''Nüw Modelbuch'' from Zürich. Bobbin lace evolved from passementerie or braid-making in 16th-century Italy. Genoa was famous for its braids, hence it is not surprising to find bobbin lace de ...
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Antwerp Lace
Antwerp lace is a bobbin lace distinguished by stylized flower pot motifs on a six point star ground. It originated in Antwerp, where in the 17th century an estimated 50% of the population of Antwerp was involved in lace making. Antwerp lace is also known, from its familiar repeated motif, as Pot Lace— in Dutch Pottenkant or Potten Kant. It is sometimes said that the flowers were a depiction of the Annunciation lilies; however, the flowers were not limited to lilies. It is a continuous lace, meaning that it was made in one piece on a lace pillow, using the same threads in the pattern as in the ground, or ''réseau''. Antwerp lace is very similar to Mechlin lace, which was also made in Antwerp. Antwerp lace is heavier and sturdier than Mechlin lace. It has a ''cordonnet'', or a flat thread outlining the pattern, just as Mechlin lace does. The ''cordonnet'' was very strong and rather coarse. Antwerp lace was also similar to Binche lace in its ''cordonnet''. The ''réseau'' or gro ...
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Mechlin Lace
Mechlin lace or Point de Malines is an old bobbin lace, one of the best known Flemish laces, originally produced in Mechelen. Worn primarily during summer, it is fine, transparent, and looks best when worn over another color. Used for women's clothing, it was popular until the first decade of the 20th century."Mechlin." ''The Oxford English Dictionary''. 2nd ed. 1989. It was made in Mechelen, Antwerp, Lier and Turnhout. It was used for ''coiffures de nuit'' (evening hair-styling), ''garnitures de corset'' (corset trims), ruffles and cravats. History Its history goes back to the Brabant laces. Originally the term 'mechlin lace' was used for any bobbin lace from Flanders. Mechlin lace grew in popularity throughout the late 17th century and the 18th century, and was mentioned several times. The 1657 inventory of the Maréchal de la Motte included 'a pair of Mechlin ruffles'. Jean-François Regnard, when visiting Flanders in 1681, wrote of the lace and lace-makers. When the ...
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Binche Lace
Binche lace is a type of bobbin lace that originated in the town of Binche, Belgium. It is continuous, meaning it is made all at once, in one piece. It is generally made in strips 2 inches (5 cm) wide. Though typically it has no cordonnet outlining the design against the ground, occasional pieces are made with a very fine one, about the same thickness as the thread used in the pattern. The pattern in Binche lace is very detailed, with animal scenes and figures. Binche lace is sometimes known as "Fairy lace". History Tradition says that Binche lace was started in the 15th century by lacemakers that moved to Binche from Ghent with Mary of Burgundy, however there is no proof for this legend. However, Binche lace was being made by the end of the 16th century. In 1585, when the river Scheldt was closed to shipping, Binche did not suffer a decline in its lacemaking as did others up the river such as Antwerp lace. Binche lace was the subject of a royal edict in 1686, which impli ...
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Valenciennes Lace
Valenciennes lace is a type of bobbin lace which originated in Valenciennes, in the Nord département of France, and flourished from about 1705 to 1780."Valenciennes." ''The Oxford English Dictionary''. 2nd ed. 1989. Later production moved to Belgium, in and around Ypres. The industry continued onto the 19th century on a diminished scale. By the 19th century Valenciennes lace could be made by machine. Valenciennes lace is made on a lace pillow in one piece, with the ''réseau'' (the net-like ground) being made at the same time as the ''toilé'' (the pattern). It differentiates itself from other types of lace because the openness of the ''réseau'', the closeness and evenness of the ''toilé'', which resembles cambric, and that it lacks any ''cordonnet'' (a loosely spun silk cord used to outline and define the pattern). Also, in real Flemish Valenciennes lace there are no twisted sides to the mesh; all are closely plaited, and as a rule the shape of the mesh is diamond but withou ...
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Mesh Grounded Bobbin Lace
Mesh grounded lace is a continuous bobbin lace also known as straight lace. Continuous bobbin lace is made in one piece on a lace pillow. The threads of the ground enter motifs, then leave to join the ground again further down the process, all made in one go. This is different from part lace, where the motifs are created separately, then joined together afterwards. Mesh grounded lace is a group of lace types that may look very different but share several common properties. Classification: Context and sub types of mesh laces In the middle of the eighteenth century, many laces could be definitely named by their grounds. In 1820–30 lace making was so widespread that names refer to a kind of lace and no longer to the place where it was made. The inherently complex study of lace is further complicated by the use of foreign terms, of alternative terms, and by contradictory usage. Moreover, lace makers have other viewpoints than collectors and curators, so classification is not a ...
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Brussels Lace
Brussels lace is a type of pillow lace that originated in and around Brussels."Brussels." ''The Oxford English Dictionary''. 2nd ed. 1989. The term "Brussels lace" has been broadly used for any lace from Brussels; however, strictly interpreted, the term refers to bobbin lace, in which the pattern is made first, and the ground, or ''réseau'' added, also using bobbin lace. Brussels lace is not to be confused with Brussels point (or Point de Gaze), which is a type of needle lace, though sometimes also called "Brussels lace". Brussels lace is well known for its delicacy and beauty. Originally it was only made from the finest spun linen thread, which was spun in dark damp rooms to keep the thread from becoming too brittle. Only one ray of light was allowed into the room, and it was arranged so that it fell upon the thread. This fine thread was one reason preventing mechanization of the process of making Brussels lace, as well as the production of it in other regions, as it could not ...
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Part Lace
Part lace or sectional lace is a way of making bobbin lace. It characterises various styles, such as Honiton lace or Brussels lace. All bobbin lace is made with bobbins on a lace pillow. Some styles of lace are made in a continuous strip. Since there is a limit to how many bobbins can be handled on a pillow, this limits how wide the lace is. Part lace, on the other hand, is made in pieces or motifs. Once made, these are joined together in a ground, net or mesh, or with plaits, bars or legs. This means that the lace has no limit in size, apart from the time needed to make it. It can also be made by a team of lacemakers. "Real Honiton laces are made up of bits and bits fashioned by many different women in their own little cottages - here a leaf, there a flower, slowly woven through the long, weary days, only to be united afterward in the precious web by other workers who never saw its beginning." Part lace may be identified by the ground or plaits being separate from the motifs an ...
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Torchon Lace
Torchon lace (Dutch: stropkant) is a bobbin lace that was made all over Europe. It is continuous, with the pattern made at the same time as the ground. Torchon lace is notable for being coarse and strong, as well as its simple geometric patterns and straight lines. It does not use representational designs. Torchon lace was used by the middle classes for edging or insertion, and also to trim cotton and linen underwear, where it was ideal because of its strength and because it was inexpensive. Torchon lace was originally made from flax, but cotton is used as well, and has been for a long time. It is made in strips 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) wide. Torchon lace generally has a gimp outlining the pattern. The gimp was first used in Sweden, but now is used generally. Colored threads are occasionally used, but in general Torchon lace is white. Torchon lace is one of the oldest laces, and is common to many lace-making regions such as Belgium, France, Italy, Saxony, Sweden and Spain. Du ...
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