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Dorea (cloth)
Dorea (, Doreas, Dooreas, Doriyah) was a type of striped or check patterned cloth made in the Indian subcontinent. The continued (warp side) striped Dorea was a simplest form of Dorea. Doriya was a kind of cloth, originally made of cotton, but later made of silk, or tussar or silk and cotton both. It has a flimsy texture when compared to Ilayecha. Doriya was also called "a striped cloth", with stripes running along with the warp of the cloth. "Are-doriya" was a type with diagonal stripes, while "Salaidar" was a cloth in which the stripes were across the width or in the weft. Mention "Ain-i-Akbari" is a document from the Mughal empire. Doriya's name is mentioned there, along with contemporary cotton fabrics such as Khasa, Salu, Bafta, Tansukh, Dupatta, and Panchtoliya. Fabric Originally it was made of cotton only, the cloth was later manufactured with silk and other type of materials as well. Exports Bengal Bengal ( ; bn, বাংলা/বঙ্গ, ...
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Stripe (pattern)
A stripe is a line or band that differs in color or tone from an adjacent area. Stripes are a group of such lines. Usage and appearance As a pattern (more than one stripe together), stripes are commonly seen in nature, food, emblems, clothing, and elsewhere. Two-toned stripes inherently draw one's attention, and as such are used to signal hazards. They are used in road signs, barricade tape, and thresholds. In nature, as with the zebra, stripes may have developed through natural selection to produce motion dazzle. Stripes may give appeal to certain sweets like the candy cane. For hundreds of years, stripes have been used in clothing. Striped clothing has frequently had negative symbolism in Western cultures. Historian Michel Pastoureau explores the cultural history of these design decisions in the book, '' The Devil's Cloth.'' See also * Square tiling *Sussi cloth * The Devil's Cloth * Argyle (pattern) * Racing flags * Flannel * Gingham * Madras (cloth) * Plaid (pattern) * ...
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Salu (cloth)
Salu (variously transcribed in English as ''sālū'', ''saloo'', and archaically, ''shallee'', ''shalloo'', ''shella'', and ''sallo'') is a type of twill cloth, woven from cotton and dyed red, originally made in India. Prior to the introduction of modern industrial techniques, it was produced exclusively hand spun (''khaddar'') yarns with locally-available dyes. Salu is one of seven cotton cloths explicitly mentioned in the 16th century Mughal record ''Ain-i-Akbari'', together with '' khasa'', '' tansukh'', ''doriya'', '' bafta'', ''dupatta'', and ''panchtoliya''. History & description Salu appears to be an ancient fabric; trade references to the Persian market from Hindustan in the 14th century are documented in the '' Divan-i-Albisa'' by Mawlānā Mahmud Nizan Qari. According to a 16th-century Mughal Empire record (Ain-i -Akbari), Salu cost two mohur per piece at that time. The original ''salu'' was made in India from materials sourced entirely in India, but a dyeing proc ...
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Chintz
Chintz () is a woodblock printed, painted, stained or glazed calico textile that originated in Golconda (present day Hyderabad, India) in the 16th century. The cloth is printed with designs featuring flowers and other patterns in different colours, typically on a light, plain background. Name The name is derived from the hi, छींट, chīṁṭ, translit-std=IAST, , meaning 'spotted', 'variegated', 'speckled', or 'sprayed'. Since the 19th century the term has also been used for the style of floral decoration developed in those calico textiles, but then used more widely, for example on chintzware pottery and wallpaper. Chintz designs are derived from the style of Indian designs themselves reflecting Mughal art. A white base with floral and animal prints are its basic characteristics. Unglazed calico was traditionally called "cretonne". The word ''calico'' is derived from the name of the Indian city Calicut (Kozhikkode in native Malayalam), to which it had a manufacturing ...
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Bengal
Bengal ( ; bn, বাংলা/বঙ্গ, translit=Bānglā/Bôngô, ) is a geopolitical, cultural and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the eastern part of the Indian subcontinent at the apex of the Bay of Bengal, predominantly covering present-day Bangladesh and the Indian state of West Bengal. Geographically, it consists of the Ganges-Brahmaputra delta system, the largest river delta in the world and a section of the Himalayas up to Nepal and Bhutan. Dense woodlands, including hilly rainforests, cover Bengal's northern and eastern areas, while an elevated forested plateau covers its central area; the highest point is at Sandakphu. In the littoral southwest are the Sundarbans, the world's largest mangrove forest. The region has a monsoon climate, which the Bengali calendar divides into six seasons. Bengal, then known as Gangaridai, was a leading power in ancient South Asia, with extensive trade networks forming connections to as far away as Roman Egypt. ...
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Francis Buchanan-Hamilton
Francis Buchanan (15 February 1762 – 15 June 1829), later known as Francis Hamilton but often referred to as Francis Buchanan-Hamilton, was a Scottish physician who made significant contributions as a geographer, zoologist, and botanist while living in India. He did not assume the name of Hamilton until three years after his retirement from India. The standard botanical author abbreviation Buch.-Ham. is applied to plants and animals he described, though today the form "Hamilton, 1822" is more usually seen in ichthyology and is preferred by Fishbase. Early life Francis Buchanan was born at Bardowie, Callander, Perthshire where Elizabeth, his mother, lived on the estate of Branziet; his father Thomas, a physician, came in Spittal and claimed the chiefdom of the name of Buchanan and owned the Leny estate. Francis Buchanan matriculated in 1774 and received an MA in 1779. As he had three older brothers, he had to earn a living from a profession, so Buchanan studied medicine ...
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Panchtoliya
''Panchtoliya'' was an old cotton cloth of the Mughal Empire, Mughal period. The Panchtoliya was very light in weight and used for the veil. It was weighing only 2-5 tola (one tola is 10 grams) per piece. The credit of Panchtoliya goes to the Mughal empress Nur Jahan. She was very fashion enthusiastic, encouraged, and introduced many styles and varieties of cloths of her interest. Few examples are ''Panchtoliya, badla'' (silver-threaded brocade), ''kinari'' (silver-threaded lace), and ''Dudami'' ( a flower-patterned muslin, used for gowns) weighing just two ''dams''. Nur Jahan is also credited for specific dresses. For instance, Nurmahali dress, ''nurmahali'' for the wedding is one of them. Mentions Abu'l-Fazl ibn Mubarak mentioned Panchtoliya in Ain-i-Akbari with a price of 1-3 Muhr. See also * Muslin * Nur Jahan * Mughal Karkhanas References

Cotton Woven fabrics {{textile-stub ...
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Dupatta
The dupattā is a Hindu shawl traditionally worn by women in Indian subcontinent to cover the head and shoulders. The dupatta is currently used most commonly as part of the women's shalwar kameez outfit, and worn over the kurta and the gharara. Etymology The Hindi-Urdu word ''dupattā'' (दुपट्टा, دوپٹہ), meaning "shawl of doubled cloth," derived from Middle Indic elements stemming from Sanskrit, is a combination of ''du-'' (meaning "two", from Sanskrit ''dvau'', "two" and ''dvi-'', combining form of dvau) and ''paṭṭā'' (meaning "strip of cloth," from ''paṭṭaḥ''), i. e., scarf usually doubled over the head. History Early evidence of the dupatta can be traced to the Indus valley civilization, where the sculpture of a priest-king whose left shoulder is covered with some kind of a chaddar suggests that the use of the dupatta dates back to this early Indic culture. Early Sanskrit literature has a wide vocabulary of terms for the veils and scarfs ...
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Tansukh Cloth
Tansukh cloth was a fine cotton cloth primarily used for feminine dresses in medieval India, Tansukh is one of the seven explicitly mentioned cloths ( khasa, Salu, Doriya, Bafta, Dupatta, and Panchtoliya) named in the exhaustive list of cotton cloths in Ain-i-Akbari. The bodices made of Tansukh and Bafta are referred by the poet Bhikhari Das. Tansukh was a woven material with another class of muslin with a very soft and delicate texture. Etymology 'Tansuk' or 'Tansukh' means in Hindi language, "comforting to the body" or "pleasing to the body". History The Ain-i-Akbari and the contemporary Hindi writers mentioned Tansukh and Khasa, Bafta, Salu, Doriya, Dupatta, and Panchtoliya as notable fabrics of their time. The special quotes some names like chira, fenta gangajal fabric, Tansukh, sari, lehenga, ghagra, etc., signify the use of these cloths in Mughal clothing. Material and texture Tansukh was made of fine cotton yarns. The texture of the fabric was very soft and del ...
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Bafta Cloth
Bafta (baft, baftae, bath, bufta or bafetta) is a kind of calico, initially made in India. Characteristics Bafta is a coarse, cheap woven material made in long, narrow pieces, chiefly of cotton. It has a closed plain weave structure, and has been made in many varieties, from coarse to fine, and made from cotton only or with silk added. It was an affordable, comfortable material with draping qualities suitable for various dresses. Bafta was a generic term for plain calico from Gujarat. Etymology The name ''bafta'' was derived from the Persian word , meaning "woven, wrought". History Bafta was originally produced in Bharuch, a city previously known as Broach, in Gujarat, India. The old Bharuch baftas seems to have been a fine stuff. Bharuch was a major textile manufacturing hub from 1500 to 1700, known for producing bafta for the West and Southeast Asian markets. Bafta was among the leading textile products exported to Europe from Western India for printing in the 18th century. ...
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Khasa (cloth)
Khasa (Cossa, Cossaes) was a high-quality variety of calico cloth that was manufactured and used for clothing in the Mughal Empire. Name Khasa or means special. Khasa was termed “kashak” in the Ain-i-Akbari, and was also known as 'jangal klasa' for its fine close weave. Khasa is one of seven cotton cloths named in the Ain-i-Akbari. Features Khasa was a cotton fabric softer than longcloth and more closely woven than muslin. It is described as having been soft and closely woven, with a fine texture. In the 16th-century emperor Akbar's time, khasa was considered to be one of the best and most expensive types of cotton cloth. It was commonly used for turbans in the Mughal era. Dimensions Khasa, like other piece goods, were produced with specific dimensions; regular khasas were having dimensions of 20 x 1 or 1.5 yards. The number of threads was in warp direction were 1400–2800 with the weight of 595 grams /pc (with 2800 threads). Production centers Khasa made in S ...
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Check (pattern)
Check (also checker, Brit: chequer) is a pattern of modified stripes consisting of crossed horizontal and vertical lines which form squares. The pattern typically contains two colours where a single checker (that is a single square within the check pattern) is surrounded on all four sides by a checker of a different colour. The pattern is commonly placed onto garments and is, in certain social contexts, applied to clothing which is worn to signify cultural or political affiliations. Such is the case with check in ska and on the keffiyeh. The pattern's all-pervasiveness and simple layout has lent to its practical usage in scientific experimentation and observation, optometry, technology (hardware and software), and as a symbol for responders to associate meaning with. Etymology The word is derived from the ancient Persian word ' which means "king" in the Sasanian game of Shatranj; an old form of chess which is played on a squared board of alternating coloured checkers. It is more ...
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Ain-i-Akbari
The ''Ain-i-Akbari'' ( fa, ) or the "Administration of Akbar", is a 16th-century detailed document recording the administration of the Mughal Empire under Emperor Akbar, written by his court historian, Abu'l Fazl in the Persian language. It forms Volume III and the final part of the much larger document, the ''Akbarnama'' (''Account of Akbar''), also by Abu'l-Fazl, and is itself in three volumes. Contents The ''Ain-i-Akbari'' is the third volume of the ''Akbarnama'' containing information on Akbar's reign in the form of administrative reports, similar to a gazetteer. In Blochmann's explanation, "it contains the 'āīn' (i.e. mode of governing) of Emperor Akbar, and is in fact the administrative report and statistical return of his government as it was about 1590."Blochmann, H. (tr.) (1927, reprint 1993). ''The Ain-I Akbari by Abu'l-Fazl Allami'', Vol. I, Calcutta: The Asiatic Society, preface (first edition) The ''Ain-i-Akbari'' is divided into five books. The first book calle ...
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