|
Perfumers
A perfumer is an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a ''nose'' (French: ''nez'') due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with compositions. At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each one alone or in combination with others. They must also know how each reveals itself over time. The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists, who compose smells and flavourants for commercial food products. Training Most past perfumers did not undergo professional training in the art, and many learned their craft as apprentices under another perfumer in their employment as technicians (in charge of blending formulas) or ch ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Perfume Organ, Grasse
Perfume (, ; french: parfum) is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. The 1939 Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, Leopold Ružička stated in 1945 that "right from the earliest days of scientific chemistry up to the present time, perfumes have substantially contributed to the development of organic chemistry as regards methods, systematic classification, and theory." Ancient texts and archaeological excavations show the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations. Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin or coumarin, which allowed for the composition of perfumes with smells previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics. History The word ''perfume'' derives from the Latin ''perfumare'', meaning "to smoke through". P ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Corporation
A corporation is an organization—usually a group of people or a company—authorized by the state to act as a single entity (a legal entity recognized by private and public law "born out of statute"; a legal person in legal context) and recognized as such in law for certain purposes. Early incorporated entities were established by charter (i.e. by an ''ad hoc'' act granted by a monarch or passed by a parliament or legislature). Most jurisdictions now allow the creation of new corporations through registration. Corporations come in many different types but are usually divided by the law of the jurisdiction where they are chartered based on two aspects: by whether they can issue stock, or by whether they are formed to make a profit. Depending on the number of owners, a corporation can be classified as ''aggregate'' (the subject of this article) or '' sole'' (a legal entity consisting of a single incorporated office occupied by a single natural person). One of the most att ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
François Demachy
François Demachy is a French perfumer. He trained at . He was succeeded as Dior’s House Perfumer by Francis Kurkdjian, but he remained a perfumer under the LVMH umbrella brands. Biography Born in Cannes, Demarchy has lived almost all his life in Grasse where his father has a pharmacy. He studied dentistry, physiotherapy, then after working at Mane, studied at the school of perfumery company Charabot. After five years of study at Charabot, Demachy joined Chanel, where he was appointed Director of Research and Development, collaborating simultaneously with the creation of perfumes of Chanel, Ungaro, Bourjois and Tiffany. In 2006 he was appointed Director of Development for the LVMH cosmetics and perfumes division and Christian Dior's main nose. He also collaborates in the production of Fendi and Acqua di Parma perfumes, also by the LVMH group. In 2009, Dior released a flanker to its pillar fragrance Miss Dior Chérie, called Miss Dior Chérie L’Eau, signed by Demachy. ''Bri ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
François Coty
François Coty (born Joseph Marie François Spoturno in Corsica ; 3 May 1874 – 25 July 1934) was a French perfumer, businessman, newspaper publisher, politician and patron of the arts. He was the founder of the Coty perfume company, today a multinational. He is considered the founding father of the modern perfume industry. In 1904, his first success, fragrance ''La Rose Jacqueminot'' launched his career. He soon started exporting perfumes from France, and by 1910 he had subsidiaries in Moscow, London and New York. During the 1917 Russian Revolution, his assets in Moscow, which consisted of stocks and funds were confiscated by the Soviet government, making him a lifelong enemy of Communism. By the end of World War I, his financial success made him one of the richest men in France, allowing him to act as patron of the arts, collect works of art, historic homes and seek to play a political role. In 1922, he gained control of daily newspaper ''Le Figaro''. To check the grow ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Germaine Cellier
Germaine Cellier (1909–1976) was a French perfumer. She was known for creating bold, pioneering fragrances such as ''Fracas'' and ''Bandit''. Cellier was also one of the first prominent female perfumers, at a time when the industry was dominated by men. Early life Cellier was born in Bordeaux, France in 1909. In 1930, she moved to Paris to study chemistry. After obtaining her degree, she went to work as a chemist for the French company Roure Bertrand. In 1943, she left Roure to work for Colgate-Palmolive as a functional perfumer, but returned to Roure after three months. Career In the 1940s, Cellier met Robert Piguet, a former designer for Paul Poiret who had started his own fashion house. Piguet aspired to create young, vibrant fashions for the post-war period. In 1944, she created ''Bandit'', one of the first leather chypres in perfumery. Cellier used 1% isobutyl quinoline to give ''Bandit'' an intense, leathery quality. In 1947, she created ''Vent Vert'' for the house o ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Jacques Cavallier
Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud (born 24 January 1962) is a French perfumer formerly with the Swiss fragrance and flavor company Firmenich, who currently works for Louis Vuitton of the LVMH Luxury Group. He has created or collaborated in the creation of over 80 fragrances and perfumes for fashion house brands such as Parfums Christian Dior, Parfums Givenchy, Issey Miyake, Yves Saint Laurent, Fenty Beauty and Lancôme. Biography Cavallier was born in Grasse, "the capital of perfume", a town known for centuries for its manufacture of perfumes, to a family that lived in the town since the 15th century. His father and grandfather were also perfumers, and he credits as having been his greatest influences. As a child, his father trained him in the fragrances of natural raw components, and he has stated that the ingredients he considers most essential for perfumers to use include rose, agar wood, jasmine and orange flower. He began working in perfume factories in Grasse during the summers ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Jean Carles
Jean Carles (12 January 1892 – 8 July 1966) was a French perfumer who worked in Roure Bertrand Fils et Justin Duppont in Grasse (now part of Givaudan) in the early 20th century. He was the founder of the Roure Perfumery School (french: De L'école de Parfumerie de Roure située à Grasse) and served as its first director in 1946. Jean Carles was also the mentor of many perfumers including Monique Schlienger and Jacques Polge. Despite becoming anosmic towards the end of his life, Carles created works such as ''Ma Griffe'' (''Carven'') and ''Miss Dior'' (''Christian Dior'') using only his memory of odours to guide him. His condition was only known to his son Marcel Carles, who assisted Jean by smelling and commenting on his creations. Due to this remarkable feat, Jean Carles is often compared to Beethoven who continued to compose music after becoming profoundly deaf. Training technique Carles also devised a training technique bearing his name (Jean Carles Method) for learnin ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Calice Becker
Calice Asancheyev-Becker (born c. 1964) is a French master perfumer and director of Givaudan Perfumery School. As of 2018 she was president of the International Society of Perfume Creators. Becker has won the Lifetime Achievement Award from The Fragrance Foundation. Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez's '' Perfumes: The Guide'' praised many of Becker's creations, including a five-star rating for Beyond Paradise (2004, a “masterful portrait of a gorgeously fresh, fictional, ideal tropical flower”), Beyond Paradise for Men, and Tommy Girl (1996), calling the latter one of the most important of all time because of its influence. Chandler Burr, perfume critic for ''The New York Times'', wrote of Becker’s 1999 creation for Dior, “It makes me think of a setting sun hitting a gold chain — gold has no scent, but if it did, it would smell like J’Adore.” List of creations * Balmain Monsieur Balmain (reformulation, 1990) * Balmain Vent Vert (reformulation, 1991) *Tommy Hilfiger Tommy ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Ernest Beaux
Ernest Beaux ( – 9 June 1961) was a Russian-born French perfumer who is best known for creating Chanel No. 5, which is perhaps the world's most famous perfume. Family background Born in Moscow, Ernest Beaux was the son of Edouard Hyppolite Beaux (1835–1899) and his second wife Augustine Wilgemina Misfeld (1843–1906), who was originally from Lille, France. Ernest Beaux's grandmother, Jeanne-Cléophée Beaux (1810–1882), had come to Russia at the beginning of the 1840s. Édouard-Hyppolyte was her son with Jean Joseph Messinger (1810–1848). Edouard Francois Beaux (1862–?), Ernest Beaux's half-brother by his father's first wife, Adelaide Fiurth (1842–1879), began as a clerk with the Moscow trading house of Muir and Mirrielees. He joined A. Rallet & Co., ultimately becoming a member of the board and Deputy Administrator. Career Ernest Beaux was born in Moscow, Russia, the brother of Edouard Beaux, who worked for Alphonse Rallet & Co. of Moscow, then the foremost R ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Nicolas De Barry
Nicolas de Barry is a French perfumer. Born in 1948 (Paris, France), Nicolas de Barry studied both sociology and politics (PhD Sorbonne University, Paris). Before focusing on perfumery, he has published books in French under the name Nicolas Martin : ''La Prusse rouge'' (Presses de la Cité, 1973), ''La Méditerranée '' (Editions L'Appel, 1974), ''Senghor et le monde'' (Editions ABC,1979), ''La forteresse albanaise'' (Editions Fayolle, 1979), ainsi que "La France fortifiée" (Editions Nathan) et "L'armée parle" (Editions Fayard). The first time he signed with the name De Barry was when he has created a choreography for a play of the French artist Dominique Tron : ''D'épuisement en épuisement jusqu'à l'aurore, Elisabeth'' . Nicolas Martin de Barry was awarded a "Prix d'Histoire de l'Académie Française" before starting the perfumery in 1992. His encounters with Edmond Roudnitska (Diorissimo and Eau Sauvage), Françoise Marin, the director of Givaudan-Roure Perfumery School i ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Henri Alméras
Henri Alméras (1892 – 1965) was a French perfumer, author, and painter. Early life and career Alméras was born in a garrison in Brittany, the son of an officer. In school, he excelled in chemistry. He performed his military service in 1913 and was sent to war the following year.René Chavance. “Alméras ou le parfumeur.” Industrie de la parfumerie. 4.8 Aug. 1949: 299-301. Print. While fighting on the Macedonian front, he first met the couturier Jean Patou. Upon returning to France, he worked briefly at the physics laboratory at Dunlop, before answering an advertisement in ''Le Journal'' to join Antoine Chiris in Grasse. There he trained as a perfumer for four years alongside Ernest Beaux and Vincent Roubert. He left for Germany, working at a manufactory in the Ruhr, but soon returned to France. He was employed as a perfumer by Paul Poiret at the couturier's Parfums de Rosine as of 1923, though certain sources suggest he had worked there since 1914. In 1925, he left Rosin ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
