Zuzana Hofmannová
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Zuzana Hofmannová, née Charvátová (15 June 1959 – 31 July 2012,
Broad Peak Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
, Pakistan) was a Czech
mountaineer Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports ...
, alpinist, and rock climber. She summitted four eight-thousanders: Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and
Broad Peak Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
, becoming the first Czech woman on top of three of them, Shishapangma, Manaslu and Broad Peak.


Climbing career

Hofmannová first encountered mountain climbing from a television documentary about Nanga Parbat when she was 15. She would go on to become one of the top Czech mountaineers of her generation and ranked among the top European alpine climbers in the 1980s.


Early climbs

Hofmannová first started rock climbing in Labské Údolí, in the Elbe Valley, against her parents' permission. In 1979, she joined the Czech climbing association where she was coached by . She soon gained attention for her climbing. In 1982 she made the first female free ascent and also the first winter ascent of Piz Badile alongside Alenou Stehlíkovou, via the Direttissima Isherwood-Kosterlitz route. In 1985, she summited Huascarán (6655 m) in Peru's Cordillera Blanca as part of an all-female expedition team. By 1988 she had made over 100 ascents across different routes in the High Tatras.


Himalayas

In 1984 she made her first Himalayan climb with an ascent attempt at Dhaulagiri, reaching 7,900m. In 1985, she was part of the first ascent by an all female team on the north face of Huascarán in the Peruvian Andes, alongside :cs:Blanka Nedvědická, Blanka Nedvědická, Ewa Szoresniak, :pl:Ewa Panejko-Pankiewicz, Ewa Pankiewicz, and :pl:Amalia Kapłoniak, Amalia Kaploniak. She returned to Huascarán#Huascarán Norte, Huascarán in 1998, becoming the first woman to summit via the North Face twice. In 2003 she appeared as herself in ''Ceské himalájské dobrodruzstvía'', a Czech documentary series on the Himalayas. Over the next years she focused on climbing in the Himalayas, and would become the first Czech woman atop Shishapangma (2004) and the first Czech person to summit Manaslu (2006). A 2005 summit attempt on Nanga Parbat was aborted due to an avalanche. In 2009, she successfully summitted her third eight-thousander, Cho Oyo.


Final expedition

On 31 July 2012, at age 53, Hofmannová became the first Czech woman to summit
Broad Peak Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
. It would be her fourth summit over 8,000m. She summited solo, and died on the descent, possibly due to an avalanche. Her climbing partners Antonín Bělík and Vít Auermüller were not with her after they diverted to save the life of a Tawiannese climber on their way to the summit. In 2013, she was named an Honorary Member of the Czech National Academy of Sciences.


Notable climbs

* 1980 – First winter ascent of Monte Civetta, via the ''Messner Route'' * 1982 – First female ascent and first winter ascent of the ''Isherwood-Kosterlitz Direttissima'' route, on Piz Badile * 1984 – Czechoslovak expedition to Dhaulagiri, Dhaulágirí (8 167 m) * 1985 – All female expedition, summit via North Face of Huascarán * 1988 – Expedition to Annapurna (mountain range), Annapurna * 1998 – North face of Huascarán, becoming the first female climber to summit this route twice * 2000 – Pamir Mountains, Pamir, Lenin Peak, Pik Lenina (7 134 m) * 2002 – Tian Shan, Ťan-šan (7 439 m), Khan Tengri, Chan Tengri (6 995 m) * 2003 – Pamir Mountains, Pamir, Peak Ozodi (7 105 m), Ismoil Somoni Peak, Qullai Ismoili Somoni (7 495 m) * 2004 – Shishapangma(8 027 m) * 2006 – Manaslu (8 163 m) via the North East Japanese route, the first ascent by a Czech woman * 2007 – Expedition to Gasherbrum I * 2009 – Classic route, Cho Oyo (8 201 m) * 2011 – Spantik (7 027 m) * 2012 –
Broad Peak Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
(8 051 m)


See also

* List of deaths on eight-thousanders#Broad Peak, Deaths on Broad Peak


References


Further reading

* * * * * BAŤKOVÁ, Šárka; HAINCOVÁ, Jitka; LUKEŠOVÁ, Hana; SLÁMOVÁ, Lenka. ''Ženy & Frauen: Inspirativní ženy Ústeckého kraje.'' Ústí nad Labem: Knihovna Ústeckého kraje, 2024. ISBN 978-80-7055-293-3. S. 32–35.


External links

*
Zuzana Hofmannová
at the Czech Mountaineering Association {{DEFAULTSORT:Hofmannová, Zuzanna 2012 deaths 1959 births Czech female climbers Czech mountain climbers Sportspeople from Ústí nad Labem Summiters of Broad Peak Deaths on Broad Peak Mountaineering deaths