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Williams Ranch is a ghost town located in
Mills County, Texas Mills County is located in Texas, United States. It was created on March 15, 1887, from parts of four existing counties in Central Texas—Brown County, Texas, Brown, Comanche County, Texas, Comanche, Hamilton County, Texas, Hamilton, and Lampa ...
, and is considered the oldest community in the county. It is named after John Williams, who settled there in 1855 when the area was in
Brown County, Texas Brown County is a county in west-central Texas. As of the 2020 census, the population was 38,095. Its county seat is Brownwood. The county was founded in 1856 and organized in 1858. It is named for Henry Stevenson Brown, a commander at the B ...
. The location is about south of Mullin, and northwest of Goldthwaite, the county seat.


History

In 1855, Tennessee native John Williams (1804–1871) was traveling from Missouri through Texas when he discovered a group of springs near Mullin Creek. Impressed with the location, he bought some land from a fellow whose last name was Williams (W.W. Williams) decided to stay and established a ranch on the springs. Another source recognizes a man with the last name "Russell" as the first settler of the town. The reason the town is called Williams Ranch is because all of John Williams sons had ranches there. During the next ten years, a community grew around Williams Ranch consisting of a number of homes, the Florida Hotel (the first in the area before Mills County), a general store, a school (the first public school in the area that would become Mills County), a few saloons, and a number of other businesses, including a stage stop. A post office operated in Williams Ranch from 1877 to 1892. It was also the site of the first mill in western Brown County, established near a spring. The mill was built in 1877 or 1888 by J.D. Williams, a son of the first settler, John Williams. A road from
Austin Austin refers to: Common meanings * Austin, Texas, United States, a city * Austin (given name), a list of people and fictional characters * Austin (surname), a list of people and fictional characters * Austin Motor Company, a British car manufac ...
to
Fort Concho Fort Concho is a former United States Army installation and National Historic Landmark District located in San Angelo, Texas. It was established in November 1867 at the confluence of the North and South Concho Rivers, on the routes of the Butte ...
, now
San Angelo San Angelo ( ) is a city in and the county seat of Tom Green County, Texas, United States. Its location is in the Concho Valley, a region of West Texas between the Permian Basin (North America), Permian Basin to the northwest, Chihuahuan Desert ...
, passed through Williams Ranch. The town probably reached its peak in 1881-1884 when it had a population of about 250 people. It also was very commercially active during 1872-1875 as a major center for western cattle trade. J.C. Combs, a Baptist from Mississippi, started the first church. Confederate General
Robert E. Lee Robert Edward Lee (January 19, 1807 – October 12, 1870) was a general officers in the Confederate States Army, Confederate general during the American Civil War, who was appointed the General in Chief of the Armies of the Confederate ...
passed through the community with troops that were relocating from Indianola to
Fort Griffin Fort Griffin, now a Texas state historic site as Fort Griffin State Historic Site, was a US Cavalry fort established 31 July 1867 by four companies of the Sixth Cavalry, U.S. ArmyCarter, R.G., ''On the Border with Mackenzie'', 1935, Washingto ...
. A telegraph line connecting Austin to Fort Concho passed through the town and was operated by Hallie Hutchinson, the nine-year-old daughter of the Florida Hotel owner. The telegraph line was essential in keeping the authorities in Austin apprised of activities in the West. Conflict erupted between the older settlers and newer settlers, leading to organizing the "Honest Man's Club." The club eventually resorted to violence, leading to a counter group being formed, the "Trigger Mountain Mob." The activities of these two groups signaled a period of mob violence that terrorized the area. The reason the town died was out of greed, because the railroad was going to go through there, but the people raised the price of their lands too high, so the railroad bypassed Williams Ranch, Texas. Outlaw
John Wesley Hardin John Wesley Hardin (May 26, 1853 – August 19, 1895) was an American Old West outlaw, gunfighter, and controversial folk icon. Hardin often got into trouble with the law from an early age. He killed his first man at the age of 15, claiming he ...
met Deputy Sheriff Charles Webb in Williams Ranch about a month before Hardin killed Webb. By the 1880s, the community had about 250 residents. Its demise began when it was bypassed by the
Santa Fe Railroad The Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway , often referred to as the Santa Fe or AT&SF, was one of the largest Class 1 railroads in the United States between 1859 and 1996. The Santa Fe was a pioneer in intermodal freight transport; at variou ...
in 1885 but more for the reason of the feud that existed between the town's original settlers and its newcomers. A petition leading to the legislation that formed Mills County specified Williams Ranch as the county seat. Today, there is ample evidence of what was once a thriving ranching community including a well-maintained cemetery. The Allen family presently owns property adjacent to the cemetery and are local historians.


Geography

Williams Ranch is sited near Mullin Creek, which rises in central Mills County and runs southwest for 12 miles to join on Brown Creek. The settlement served as a stage stop on The Wire Road, a dirt road running from Austin to
Fort Phantom Hill Fort Phantom Hill, also called the Camp on the Clear Fork, is a former United States Army installation located in Jones County, Texas. The fort was established in 1851 as part of a line of forts in Texas to protect migrants passing through t ...
near Abilene named for the telegraph line which was the first communication line between Austin and the military outpost. The local terrain is characterized by steep slopes and benches, surfaced by shallow clay loams or sandy soils, which support
juniper Junipers are coniferous trees and shrubs in the genus ''Juniperus'' ( ) of the cypress family Cupressaceae. Depending on the taxonomy, between 50 and 67 species of junipers are widely distributed throughout the Northern Hemisphere as far south ...
,
live oak Live oak or evergreen oak is any of a number of oaks in several different sections of the genus ''Quercus'' that share the characteristic of evergreen foliage. These oaks are generally not more closely related to each other than they are to o ...
,
mesquite Mesquite is a common name for some plants in the genera ''Neltuma'' and '' Strombocarpa'', which contain over 50 species of spiny, deep-rooted leguminous shrubs and small trees. They are native to dry areas in the Americas. Until 2022, these ge ...
, and grasses.


Demographics


References

{{Reflist, 2


External links


Williams Ranch
historical marker entry in the ''Texas Historic Sites Atlas''
Williams Ranch Cemetery listing
Ghost towns in Central Texas Geography of Mills County, Texas