St Mary's Church, Swanage
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St Mary's Church is a parish church in
Swanage Swanage () is a coastal town and civil parish in the south east of Dorset, England. It is at the eastern end of the Isle of Purbeck and one of its two towns, approximately south of Poole and east of Dorchester, Dorset, Dorchester. In the Unit ...
,
Dorset Dorset ( ; Archaism, archaically: Dorsetshire , ) is a Ceremonial counties of England, ceremonial county in South West England. It is bordered by Somerset to the north-west, Wiltshire to the north and the north-east, Hampshire to the east, t ...
. It is dedicated to the
Virgin Mary Mary was a first-century Jewish woman of Nazareth, the wife of Saint Joseph, Joseph and the mother of Jesus. She is an important figure of Christianity, venerated under titles of Mary, mother of Jesus, various titles such as Perpetual virginity ...
. The church is in the Archdeaconry of Dorset, in the
Diocese of Salisbury The Diocese of Salisbury is a Church of England diocese in the south of England, within the ecclesiastical Province of Canterbury. The diocese covers the historic county of Dorset (which excludes the deaneries of Bournemouth and Christchurch, ...
. The tower is mediaeval; the church itself is a 19th and early 20th-century reconstruction. It is
Grade II listed In the United Kingdom, a listed building is a structure of particular architectural or historic interest deserving of special protection. Such buildings are placed on one of the four statutory lists maintained by Historic England in England, H ...
.


History

St Mary's was originally a
chapel of ease A chapel of ease (or chapel-of-ease) is a church architecture, church building other than the parish church, built within the bounds of a parish for the attendance of those who cannot reach the parish church conveniently, generally due to trav ...
to St Nicholas's,
Worth Matravers Worth Matravers () is a village and civil parish in the English county of Dorset. The village is situated on the cliffs west of Swanage. It comprises limestone cottages and farm houses and is built around a pond, which is a regular feature on p ...
, and remained as such until 1487. Related to the chapel of ease origins, the Swanage local historian
David Lewer David James Lewer (Swanage, Dorset, 22 January 1919 – 16 April 2005) was an English author, architect, historian and choral musician. Born in 1919 to parents James William Lewer and Emily (née Brown), David was the younger of two siblings. His ...
speculated that the tower's origin was not ecclesiastical, and was more likely to be defensive. The church was the end-point of the Priest's Way, which was the route the priests took from Worth Matravers in order to say mass in Swanage. The three lower stages of the square tower are 14th-century; the top stage dates from 1620. The tower is a plain structure, unbuttressed, with small plain windows and a parapet without battlements. The roof is lead covered. The tower carries a ring of eight bells. The two oldest are the work of
John Wallis John Wallis (; ; ) was an English clergyman and mathematician, who is given partial credit for the development of infinitesimal calculus. Between 1643 and 1689 Wallis served as chief cryptographer for Parliament and, later, the royal court. ...
(dating from 1594 and 1612); the other six are the work of
John Taylor & Co John Taylor Bell Foundry (Loughborough) Limited, trading as John Taylor & Co and commonly known as Taylor's Bell Foundry, Taylor's of Loughborough, or simply Taylor's, is the world's largest working bell (instrument), bell foundry. It is locat ...
. Two of the John Taylor bells date from 1888; the other four date from 1940. The mediaeval church was greatly altered in the 17th and 18th-centuries. A 17th-century Rector, the Rev Brune Cockram, demolished all of the church apart from the south transept, and rebuilt it. A recorded visit in 1847 described the church as consisting of a chancel, nave and belfry (i.e. the tower), but that there had previously been transepts as well. A war-time visit from the
Royal Commission on the Historical Monuments of England Royal may refer to: People * Royal (name), a list of people with either the surname or given name * A member of a royal family or royalty Places United States * Royal, Arkansas, an unincorporated community * Royal, Illinois, a village * Royal ...
assessed the surviving elements of the original church as being of 13th-century origin. The church was rebuilt in a Gothic revival style by TH Wyatt in 1859–60, on land given for this purpose by Sir
John Mowlem Burt Sir John Mowlem Burt (2 February 1845 – 20 February 1918) worked in the UK construction industry during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. He was part of the Mowlem firm of contractors and was from the third generation of the family that w ...
. Local architects James Edward Clifton and Edmund Arthur Robinson (a son of the art curator Sir
John Charles Robinson Sir John Charles Robinson (16 December 1824, Nottingham – 10 April 1913, Swanage) was an English painter and etcher, although he is now better remembered as an art collector and curator. Biography He was raised by his grandfather, who was a boo ...
) enlarged it in 1906–08 with the addition of a north aisle and galleried transepts. It is built of
Purbeck stone Purbeck stone refers to building stone taken from a series of limestone beds found in the Upper Jurassic to Lower Cretaceous Purbeck Group, found on the Isle of Purbeck, Dorset in southern England. The best known variety of this stone is Purbeck ...
. The main entrance is at the west end of the north aisle, and has a shallow portico with a doorway in an
Early English style English Gothic is an architectural style that flourished from the late 12th until the mid-17th century. The style was most prominently used in the construction of cathedrals and churches. Gothic architecture's defining features are pointed a ...
. Above that is a large window with
Perpendicular In geometry, two geometric objects are perpendicular if they intersect at right angles, i.e. at an angle of 90 degrees or π/2 radians. The condition of perpendicularity may be represented graphically using the '' perpendicular symbol'', ...
tracery. An octagonal turret with stone spire adjoins the north transept. A number of 18th-century monuments were retained from the earlier church. The 19th-century font is
Purbeck marble Purbeck Marble is a fossiliferous limestone found in the Isle of Purbeck, a peninsula in south-east Dorset, England. It is a variety of Purbeck stone that has been quarried since at least Roman times as a decorative building stone. Geology S ...
.


Features


St Aldhelm's Chapel

The Swanage building contractor Sir George Burt was responsible for the construction of the daughter church of St Aldhelm's, on Park Road, which was opened in 1892. The church was never well-attended, and was closed and demolished in 1973. Some of the furnishings were then brought to St Mary's, and the north transept was converted into a chapel, dedicated to St Aldhelm (not to be confused with St. Aldhelm's Chapel, St. Aldhelm's Head). Daily morning prayer takes place in St Aldhelm's Chapel. The
chancel screen In church architecture, the chancel is the space around the altar, including the Choir (architecture), choir and the sanctuary (sometimes called the presbytery), at the liturgical east end of a traditional Christian church building. It may termi ...
includes stained glass depicting
St Michael Michael, also called Saint Michael the Archangel, Archangel Michael and Saint Michael the Taxiarch is an archangel and the warrior of God in Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. The earliest surviving mentions of his name are in third- and second- ...
kneeling, the warrior to be crowned, and
St George Saint George (;Geʽez: ጊዮርጊስ, , ka, გიორგი, , , died 23 April 303), also George of Lydda, was an early Christian martyr who is venerated as a saint in Christianity. According to holy tradition, he was a soldier in the R ...
, by A. L. Moore, being the former east window of St Aldhelm's.


Stained glass

Most of the stained glass was lost to bomb damage during WWII. The east window is by
Francis Skeat Francis Walter Skeat (3 December 1909 – 31 August 2000) was an English glass painter who created over 400 stained glass windows in churches and cathedrals, both in England and overseas. Skeat was a Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts, a Fellow ...
of
Goddard & Gibbs Goddard & Gibbs was a London-based Architectural glass, glassmaker and stained glass window manufacturer. The company was established by Walter Gibbs in 1868, although one firm which it subsequently acquired had been established earlier, in 1 ...
and depicts
Christ in Majesty Christ in Majesty or Christ in Glory () is the Western Christian image of Christ seated on a throne as ruler of the world, always seen frontally in the centre of the composition, and often flanked by other sacred figures, whose membership change ...
. The north chancel window depicts Christ calming the water and is a 19th-century survivor, possibly by Lavers & Westlake, and is a memorial to the Rev Robert Travers. The south aisle windows are a 19th-century depiction of an angel with a musical instrument in each light and a depiction of the Nativity by Skeat. The north aisle windows depict
Elijah Elijah ( ) or Elias was a prophet and miracle worker who lived in the northern kingdom of Israel during the reign of King Ahab (9th century BC), according to the Books of Kings in the Hebrew Bible. In 1 Kings 18, Elijah defended the worsh ...
and the ravens by Abbot & Co given in memory of Charles Talbot-Dean and
St John the Baptist John the Baptist ( – ) was a Jewish preacher active in the area of the Jordan River in the early first century AD. He is also known as Saint John the Forerunner in Eastern Orthodoxy and Oriental Orthodoxy, John the Immerser in some Baptist ...
by Leonard Pownall given in memory of the Rev William Wilson. The windows in the south transept depict the Stoning of St Stephen,
St George and the dragon In a legend, Saint Georgea soldier venerated in Christianity—defeats a dragon. The story goes that the dragon originally extorted tribute from villagers. When they ran out of livestock and trinkets for the dragon, they started giving up a huma ...
, and
St David David (; ; ) was a Welsh Christian prelate who served as Bishop of Mynyw during the 6th century. He is the patron saint of Wales. David was a native of Wales, and tradition has preserved a relatively large amount of detail about his life. ...
, by
Martin Travers Howard Martin Otho Travers (19 February 1886 – 25 July 1948) was a leading English church artist and designer. Travers was born in Margate, Kent, educated at Tonbridge School, entered the Royal College of Art in 1904, and was awarded its Dipl ...
given in memory of Hill Crest School pupils, and a
rose window Rose window is often used as a generic term applied to a circular window, but is especially used for those found in Gothic cathedrals and churches. The windows are divided into segments by stone mullions and tracery. The term ''rose window'' wa ...
depicting the
Royal British Legion The Royal British Legion (RBL), formerly the British Legion, is a British charity providing financial, social and emotional support to members and veterans of the British Armed Forces, their families and dependants. Membership Service in th ...
badge by James Clarke & Eaton given in memory of lives lost in war. The north transept is now St Aldhelm's Chapel; one window is 19th-century and is a transfer from the former St Aldhelm's Church. The other three are by Abbott & Co, depicting
St Aldhelm Aldhelm (, ; 25 May 709), Abbot of Malmesbury Abbey, Bishop of Sherborne, and a writer and scholar of Latin poetry, was born before the middle of the 7th century. He is said to have been the son of Kenten, who was of the royal house of Wessex. ...
and
Bishop Jewell John Jewel (''alias'' Jewell) (24 May 1522 – 23 September 1571) of Devon, England was Bishop of Salisbury from 1559 to 1571. Life He was the youngest son of John Jewel of Bowden in the parish of Berry Narbor in Devon, by his wife Alice Bel ...
,
St Nicholas Saint Nicholas of Myra (traditionally 15 March 270 – 6 December 343), also known as Nicholas of Bari, was an early Christian bishop of Greeks, Greek descent from the maritime city of Patara (Lycia), Patara in Anatolia (in modern-day Antalya ...
and HMS ''Glorious'', and
St Luke Luke the Evangelist was one of the Four Evangelists—the four traditionally ascribed authors of the canonical gospels. The Early Church Fathers ascribed to him authorship of both the Gospel of Luke and the Acts of the Apostles. Prominent figu ...
. At an upper level in the north transept is a rose window by
Henry Haig Henry Haig (9 February 19306 December 2007) was an English abstract artist, painter and sculptor but notable predominantly for his stained glass work. Early life and education Born in Hampstead in 1930, Haig's talent was recognised and encourag ...
depicting the Creation.


Organ

An organ was first installed in the former parish church in 1829, but nothing further of this instrument is known, other than that it was located in the gallery, and that, when it was replaced, it was sold to the Swanage
Congregational Church Congregationalism (also Congregational Churches or Congregationalist Churches) is a Reformed Christian (Calvinist) tradition of Protestant Christianity in which churches practice congregational government. Each congregation independently a ...
(now the
United Reformed Church The United Reformed Church (URC) is a Protestant Christian church in the United Kingdom. As of 2024 it had approximately 44,000 members in around 1,250 congregations with 334 stipendiary ministers. The URC is a Trinitarian church whose theolog ...
) for £18. It was re-installed in the Congregational Church in 1876 by FJ Duncan of
Poole Poole () is a coastal town and seaport on the south coast of England in the Bournemouth, Christchurch and Poole unitary authority area in Dorset, England. The town is east of Dorchester, Dorset, Dorchester and adjoins Bournemouth to the east ...
. The next instrument was built by
W.G. Vowles William Gibbons Vowles (usually known as W. G. Vowles or Vowles) (1826 – 25 February 1912) was an England, English pipe organ maker and refurbisher in Bristol, who established his practice in 1856, although with antecedents dating back to 17 ...
in 1875. In turn, that too was sold to the Congregational Church, in 1900 for £60. (This organ was replaced in the Congregational Church in 1934 by a new organ built by George Osmond of
Taunton Taunton () is the county town of Somerset, England. It is a market town and has a Minster (church), minster church. Its population in 2011 was 64,621. Its thousand-year history includes a 10th-century priory, monastic foundation, owned by the ...
; the Osmond organ was destroyed by bomb damage in 1943.) The third organ was another instrument by Vowles. It was a two-manual instrument, located on the north side of the chancel, facing across the choir, and with five pipes of the Great Open Diapason facing the nave. When the church was extended with the addition of a north aisle in 1906, the 1899 Vowles organ was rebuilt, enlarged to a three-manual and relocated to the east end of the north aisle, again by Vowles. It was considerably modified in 1958 and 1965 by
Harrison & Harrison Harrison & Harrison Ltd is a British company based in Durham that makes and restores pipe organs. It was established in Rochdale in 1861. It is well known for its work on instruments such as King's College, Cambridge, Westminster Abbey, and t ...
. It was rebuilt in 1986-87 by Kenneth James & Son. The organ was rebuilt again in 2017 by the
Isle of Wight The Isle of Wight (Help:IPA/English, /waɪt/ Help:Pronunciation respelling key, ''WYTE'') is an island off the south coast of England which, together with its surrounding uninhabited islets and Skerry, skerries, is also a ceremonial county. T ...
organ-builders, Andrew Cooper & Co. The director of music is (2021) Simon Lole.


Churchyard

The original churchyard was small, and on the western and southern sides of the church. An additional, detached churchyard, on the southern side of Church Hill, was acquired in 1826. The wall and tombstones of the detached churchyard are also
Grade II listed In the United Kingdom, a listed building is a structure of particular architectural or historic interest deserving of special protection. Such buildings are placed on one of the four statutory lists maintained by Historic England in England, H ...
.


Incumbents


Rectors of Worth

*1297-1308 Henry Terry *1308-1325 Alexander Wenden *1325-1361 Walter de Swanewich *1361-1378 Richard Swayne *1378-1408 Robert Starcliffe *1408-1414 William Talbot *1414-1419 Robert Osanne *1419-1436 Richard Abbot *1436-1457 Thomas Umfray *1457-1473 John Homme *1473-1486 Edmund Martyn *1486-1487 John Elyot


Rectors of Swanage

*1487-1504 John Phelippes *1504-1506 John Savage *1506-1521 William Hyndebere *1521-1537 Edward Higgons *1537-1570 Thomas Griffith *1570 Thomas Whalley *1570-1576 Thomas Cooke *1576-1586 John Whitcomb *1586-1614 Edward Abbot *1614-1667 Brune Cockram *1667-1690 William Rose *1690-1714 Philip Baker *1714-1749 Edmund Cooke *1749-1782 John Pyke *1782-1785 John Thompson *1785-1801 Richard Williams *1801-1809 Andrew Bell. Bell was an educationalist who pioneered the
Monitorial System The Monitorial System, also known as Madras System, Lancasterian System/Lancasterism or the Bell System of Instruction, was an education method that took hold during the early 19th century, because of Spanish, French, and English colonial education ...
of education. *1810-1816 Samuel Gale *1817-1841 Thomas Oldfield Bartlett *1841-1854 James Leonard Jackson *1854-1887 Robert Duncan Travers. Travers was the son of Rear-Admiral Sir Eaton Stannard Travers. *1887-1901 Thomas Alfred Gurney. Gurney was a grandson of the shorthand writer
William Brodie Gurney William Brodie Gurney (1777–1855) was an English shorthand writer and philanthropist of the 19th century. Biography Gurney was the younger son of Joseph Gurney, a shorthand writer, who died at Walworth, Surrey, in 1815, by a daughter of Will ...
. *1901-1905 William Arthur Wilson *1905-1908 William Henry Parsons *1908-1916 Henry Edwyn Eardley. Eardley had previously been a curate at Swanage, and married the daughter of the then Rector, the Rev Robert Duncan Travers. *1916-1934 William Riddell Parr *1934-1950 Hubert Victor Nicoll-Griffith *1951-1961 Norman Miller *1961-1969 Hector David Anderson. Anderson was a Chaplain to the Queen, 1955–76. *1969-1983 David Bailey *1983-1993 David Kingsley Callard *1993-2001 Dudley John Ratcliffe *2002-2016 John Samuel Wood *Since 2017 John Owen Mann. Mann had previously been Dean of
St Anne’s Cathedral, Belfast Belfast Cathedral, () also known as St Anne's Cathedral (), is a Romanesque architecture, Romanesque-style Church of Ireland, Anglican cathedral in Donegall Street, Belfast, Northern Ireland. It is unusual in serving two separate dioceses (Dioc ...
(2011-17).


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Saint Mary's Church, Swanage Church of England church buildings in Dorset 19th-century Church of England church buildings Diocese of Salisbury Grade II listed churches in Dorset Thomas Henry Wyatt buildings