The South West Wilderness of
Tasmania
Tasmania (; palawa kani: ''Lutruwita'') is an island States and territories of Australia, state of Australia. It is located to the south of the Mainland Australia, Australian mainland, and is separated from it by the Bass Strait. The sta ...
,
Australia
Australia, officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a country comprising mainland Australia, the mainland of the Australia (continent), Australian continent, the island of Tasmania and list of islands of Australia, numerous smaller isl ...
is a remote and inaccessible region of
South West Tasmania
South West Tasmania is a region in Tasmania that has evoked curiosity and wonder during the period of European presence on the island.
Initially relatively unexplored by Europeans, in the mid-twentieth century the area was considered for its ...
containing unspoilt scenery, rugged peaks, wild rivers, unique flora and fauna, and a long and rugged coastline. Parts of the wilderness are more than 50 km from the nearest road, so the only access to the area is by foot, air or sea.
It has been known by a variety of names over the last century, and the label has been affected by a number of threats to the region. For some the term ''The Southwest'' has been the usual term, while recent maps and tourism promotion material have identified it variously including the Southwest Wilderness and South-West Wilderness.
History
Evidence has been found of human habitation in the South West Wilderness area going back at least 25,000 years. The coastal area was shared by four
Tasmanian Aboriginal
The Aboriginal Tasmanians (palawa kani: ''Palawa'' or ''Pakana'') are the Aboriginal people of the Australian island of Tasmania, located south of the mainland. At the time of European contact, Aboriginal Tasmanians were divided into a numb ...
tribes for at least the last 3,000 years.
The coast of the area was mapped by
Captain James Cook
Captain James Cook (7 November 1728 – 14 February 1779) was a British Royal Navy officer, explorer, and cartographer famous for his three voyages of exploration to the Pacific and Southern Oceans, conducted between 1768 and 1779. He complet ...
in 1777 as part of his third voyage of discovery aboard , though this was not a focus of the voyage. It was undoubtedly sighted by earlier European voyagers, but little attempt appears to have been made to land.
The Aboriginal people were removed from the region during the 1830s by
George Augustus Robinson
George Augustus Robinson (22 March 1791 – 18 October 1866) was an English born builder and self-trained preacher who was employed by the British colonial authorities to conciliate the Indigenous Australians of Van Diemen's Land and the Po ...
, acting under the policies of the local colonial British government.
During the 19th century, as Europeans colonised other parts of Australia and Tasmania, this area was found to be harsh and inhospitable. Limited numbers of sealers, whalers, miners and timber-getters based themselves in the area.
In 1955
Lake Pedder
Lake Pedder, once a glacial outwash lake, is a man-made impoundment and diversion lake located in South West Tasmania, Australia. In addition to its natural catchment from the Frankland Range, the lake is formed by the 1972 damming of the ...
National Park was proclaimed. Over the following 35 years the park was gradually extended, and was renamed the
Southwest National Park
Southwest National Park is an Australian national park located in the South West Tasmania, south-west of Tasmania, bounded by the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park to the north and the Hartz Mountains National Park to the east. It is a ...
, finally reaching its present size in 1990. As detailed below, the Southwest National Park forms the bulk of the South West Wilderness.
World Heritage Area
The South West Wilderness is an important part of the
Tasmanian Wilderness
The Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, abbreviated to TWWHA, is a World Heritage Site in Tasmania, Australia. It is one of the largest conservation areas in Australia, covering , or almost 25 per cent of Tasmania. It is also one of the l ...
World Heritage Site, and is therefore regarded as containing "superlative natural phenomena or areas of exceptional natural beauty and aesthetic importance".
The South West Wilderness is largely composed of the
Southwest National Park
Southwest National Park is an Australian national park located in the South West Tasmania, south-west of Tasmania, bounded by the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park to the north and the Hartz Mountains National Park to the east. It is a ...
, Tasmania's largest
National Park
A national park is a nature park designated for conservation (ethic), conservation purposes because of unparalleled national natural, historic, or cultural significance. It is an area of natural, semi-natural, or developed land that is protecte ...
, which at 6,052.13 km² is larger than many small countries.
The Southwest National Park is part of a continuous chain of five National Parks, along with the
Hartz Mountains National Park
Hartz Mountains National Park is located in the south of Tasmania, Australia. It is one of 19 Tasmanian National Parks, and in 1989 it was included in the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, in recognition of its natural and cultural valu ...
, the
Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park
Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers is a national park in Tasmania, 117 km west of Hobart. It is named after the two main river systems lying within the bounds of the park - the Franklin River and the Gordon River.
Location
The Franklin-Gordon Wi ...
, the
Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park
Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair National Park is located in the Central Highlands area of Tasmania (Australia), Northwest of Hobart. The park contains many walking trails, and is where hikes along the well-known Overland Track usually begin. M ...
, and the
Walls of Jerusalem National Park
The Walls of Jerusalem National Park is a national park located in the Central Highlands (Tasmania), Central Highlands region of Tasmania, Australia. The park is located approximately northwest of Hobart, Australia, Hobart, east of the Cradle ...
. Together these five parks cover almost a quarter of Tasmania's land mass and, along with a few other smaller parks and areas, form the World Heritage Area. Sections of some of these other National Parks can also be considered part of the South West Wilderness.
Geology and geography
The South West Wilderness has a preponderance of
dolerite
Diabase (), also called dolerite () or microgabbro,
is a mafic, holocrystalline, subvolcanic rock equivalent to volcanic basalt or plutonic gabbro. Diabase dikes and sills are typically shallow intrusive bodies and often exhibit fine-grain ...
and
quartzite
Quartzite is a hard, non- foliated metamorphic rock that was originally pure quartz sandstone.Essentials of Geology, 3rd Edition, Stephen Marshak, p 182 Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tecton ...
rock, with very little soil coverage over much of its area. This largely contributes to the observed features of the landscape, and the low utility of the area for agriculture or forestry. The remoteness, ruggedness and infertility is largely what led to its being unsuitable for settlement.
It displays extensive mountain ridges and steep valleys, with deep mountain lakes and extensive wild moor-lands. Much of its landscape has been sculpted by relatively recent
glaciation
A glacial period (alternatively glacial or glaciation) is an interval of time (thousands of years) within an ice age that is marked by colder temperatures and glacier advances. Interglacials, on the other hand, are periods of warmer climate be ...
events. The wilderness area also contains the immense Port Davey and
Bathurst Harbour
Bathurst Harbour is a shallow bay located in the south west region of Tasmania, Australia. Bathurst Harbour is contained within the Port Davey/Bathurst Harbour Marine Nature Reserve, and the Southwest National Park, part of the Tasmanian Wil ...
, which combined cover an area of 170 square kilometres, more than three times the size of
Sydney Harbour
Port Jackson, commonly known as Sydney Harbour, is a ria, natural harbour on the east coast of Australia, around which Sydney was built. It consists of the waters of Sydney Harbour, Middle Harbour, North Harbour and the Lane Cove River, Lane ...
.
Melaleuca
''Melaleuca'' () is a genus of nearly 300 species of plants in the myrtle family, Myrtaceae, commonly known as paperbarks, honey-myrtles, bottlebrushes or tea-trees (although the last name is also applied to species of '' Leptospermum''). They ...
is a tiny settlement on Bathurst Harbour, consisting of one currently inhabited house, an historic house formerly inhabited by Tasmanian naturalist
Deny King
Charles Denison (Deny) King (12 September 190912 May 1991) was an Australian naturalist, ornithologist, environmentalist, painter and tin miner. He spent 55 years living in Melaleuca in Port Davey, part of the remote South West Wilderness of T ...
, a crushed quartz rock airstrip, and some basic National Park facilities including a bird hide, information centre and signage, and toilets. Its current permanent population is just two.
Some key geographic features include the
Arthur Range, South Picton Range,
Frankland Range
The Frankland Range is a mountain range that is located in the south-west region of Tasmania, Australia. The range forms part of a natural south-western border to the impounded Lake Pedder, formed by the damming of the Serpentine and Huon r ...
and Ray Range. Notable peaks include Mount Rugby on Bathurst Harbour, Mount Melaleuca, Mount Anne,
Precipitous Bluff, and
Federation Peak. Rivers in, or that have their headwaters in the South West Wilderness, include the Davey River, the
Franklin
Franklin may refer to:
People and characters
* Franklin (given name), including list of people and characters with the name
* Franklin (surname), including list of people and characters with the name
* Franklin (class), a member of a historic ...
and
Gordon River
The Gordon River is a major perennial river located in the central highlands, south-west, and western regions of Tasmania, Australia.
Course and features
The Gordon River rises below Mount Hobhouse in the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers Nation ...
s, and the
Huon River
The Huon River ( , Aboriginal_Tasmanians#South_East, Mellukerdee/palawa kani: ''Taloonne'') is a perennial river in the South West Tasmania, southwest and southeast regions of Tasmania, Australia. At long, the Huon River is the fifth-longest in ...
.
Flora and fauna
In the more fertile areas dense forests of
eucalyptus
''Eucalyptus'' () is a genus of more than 700 species of flowering plants in the family Myrtaceae. Most species of ''Eucalyptus'' are trees, often Mallee (habit), mallees, and a few are shrubs. Along with several other genera in the tribe Eucalyp ...
,
southern sassafras and
myrtle beech
''Nothofagus cunninghamii'', commonly known as myrtle beech or Tasmanian myrtle, is the dominant species of cool temperate rainforests in Tasmania and Southern Victoria. It has low fire resistance and grows best in partial shade conditions.
It ...
,
acacia
''Acacia'', commonly known as wattles or acacias, is a genus of about of shrubs and trees in the subfamily Mimosoideae of the pea family Fabaceae. Initially, it comprised a group of plant species native to Africa, South America, and Austral ...
(wattle), and leatherwood (''
Eucryphia lucida
''Eucryphia lucida'', the leatherwood, is a species of tree or large shrub endemic to forests of western Tasmania, Australia. An attractive plant used in both horticulture and apiculture, it was promoted by the Tasmanian Branch of the then SGA ...
)'' are found, with low growing
fern
The ferns (Polypodiopsida or Polypodiophyta) are a group of vascular plants (plants with xylem and phloem) that reproduce via spores and have neither seeds nor flowers. They differ from mosses by being vascular, i.e., having specialized tissue ...
s, climbing
heath
A heath () is a shrubland habitat found mainly on free-draining infertile, acidic soils and is characterised by open, low-growing woody vegetation. Moorland is generally related to high-ground heaths with—especially in Great Britain—a coole ...
, bauera,
moss
Mosses are small, non-vascular plant, non-vascular flowerless plants in the taxonomic phylum, division Bryophyta (, ) ''sensu stricto''. Bryophyta (''sensu lato'', Wilhelm Philippe Schimper, Schimp. 1879) may also refer to the parent group bryo ...
es and
lichen
A lichen ( , ) is a hybrid colony (biology), colony of algae or cyanobacteria living symbiotically among hypha, filaments of multiple fungus species, along with yeasts and bacteria embedded in the cortex or "skin", in a mutualism (biology), m ...
. In sheltered wet patches, stands of
temperate rainforest
Temperate rainforests are rainforests with coniferous or Broad-leaved tree, broadleaf forests that occur in the temperate zone and receive heavy rain.
Temperate rainforests occur in oceanic moist regions around the world: the Pacific temperate ...
still exist.
The region is also host to specimens and stands of unique and ancient
Huon pines, which are extremely slow growing but can live for thousands of years and form one of the most durable timbers on Earth, as well as the fascinating celery-top pines (''
Phyllocladus aspleniifolius
''Phyllocladus aspleniifolius'', commonly known as the celerytop pine, is an endemic gymnosperm of Tasmania, Australia. It is widespread and common in Tasmania, with the most abundance in the western highlands. Its leaves appear similar to thos ...
'').
The exposed and more infertile areas, particularly around the extreme south-west, consist largely of low growing native grasses such as the unusual
buttongrass,
heath
A heath () is a shrubland habitat found mainly on free-draining infertile, acidic soils and is characterised by open, low-growing woody vegetation. Moorland is generally related to high-ground heaths with—especially in Great Britain—a coole ...
s, and hardy
melaleuca
''Melaleuca'' () is a genus of nearly 300 species of plants in the myrtle family, Myrtaceae, commonly known as paperbarks, honey-myrtles, bottlebrushes or tea-trees (although the last name is also applied to species of '' Leptospermum''). They ...
s. These plants grow right to the water's edge, and stain the pure unpolluted water the colour of tea.
Fauna are typically Tasmanian, though population densities are not high, especially in the more infertile areas. Due to its remoteness, the wilderness is touted by some as a possible place for a breeding population of
thylacine
The thylacine (; binomial name ''Thylacinus cynocephalus''), also commonly known as the Tasmanian tiger or Tasmanian wolf, was a carnivorous marsupial that was native to the Mainland Australia, Australian mainland and the islands of Tasmani ...
s (Tasmanian tigers) to have survived since their official extinction in 1936, though most authorities would agree that areas in north-west Tasmania such as the
Tarkine wilderness are more likely, as this region provides more suitable habitat and more prey for the thylacine.
Rivers can be rich with fish, such as giant
trout
Trout (: trout) is a generic common name for numerous species of carnivorous freshwater ray-finned fishes belonging to the genera '' Oncorhynchus'', ''Salmo'' and ''Salvelinus'', all of which are members of the subfamily Salmoninae in the ...
, as the area is not overfished by humans. Bird life can be varied, including
rosella
Rosellas are in a genus that consists of six species and nineteen subspecies.
These colourful parrots from Australia are in the genus ''Platycercus''.
''Platycercus'' means "broad-tailed" or "flat-tailed", reflecting a feature common to the ...
s,
honeyeater
The honeyeaters are a large and diverse family, Meliphagidae, of small to medium-sized birds. The family includes the Australian chats, myzomelas, friarbirds, wattlebirds, miners and melidectes. They are most common in Australia and New Gui ...
s, native
wrens
Wrens are a family (biology), family, Troglodytidae, of small brown passerine birds. The family includes 96 species and is divided into 19 genus, genera. All species are restricted to the New World except for the Eurasian wren that is widely di ...
and
robins Robins may refer to:
Places United States
* Robins, Iowa, a small city
* Robins, Ohio, an unincorporated community
* Robins Township, Fall River County, South Dakota
* Robins Island, of the coast of New York state
*Robins Air Force Base, Georgia
...
,
thornbills and
currawong
Currawongs are three species of medium-sized passerine birds belonging to the genus ''Strepera'' in the family Artamidae native to Australia. These are the grey currawong (''Strepera versicolor''), pied currawong (''S. graculina''), and black ...
s. The region around Melaleuca is home to summer breeding grounds of the highly endangered
orange-bellied parrot
The orange-bellied parrot (''Neophema chrysogaster'') is a small parrot endemic (ecology), endemic to southern Australia, and one of only three species of parrot that bird migration, migrate. It was described by John Latham (ornithologist), John ...
.
Access
The South West Wilderness is one of the most remote and inaccessible areas in Australia. No vehicular roads penetrate beyond the edges of the wilderness, so the only access to the south-west of the area is by foot, air or sea.
There are two formal locations for overnight lodgings located on Lake Pedder. The Ted's Beach campground is located 10 km from Strathgordon on the East bank of the lake. The facilities there include electric barbecues supplied by the National Park Service as well as showers and toilets. The Lake Pedder Chalet is located on the west bank of the lake in Strathgordon and offers full hotel amenities with a restaurant and bar which are open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Both of these areas have free boat ramps and both are situated conveniently near the start of the Port Davey Track.
Two walking tracks (for very experienced walkers only) cross the wilderness. The 54 km Port Davey Track runs from Lake Pedder to
Melaleuca
''Melaleuca'' () is a genus of nearly 300 species of plants in the myrtle family, Myrtaceae, commonly known as paperbarks, honey-myrtles, bottlebrushes or tea-trees (although the last name is also applied to species of '' Leptospermum''). They ...
and typically takes four to five days to walk. Lake Pedder itself is 75 km from
Hobart
Hobart ( ) is the capital and most populous city of the island state of Tasmania, Australia. Located in Tasmania's south-east on the estuary of the River Derwent, it is the southernmost capital city in Australia. Despite containing nearly hal ...
via the Gordon River Road.
From Melaleuca the 66 km South Coast Track runs along the southern coast of Tasmania back to
Cockle Creek. This section of the walk typically takes between five and nine days. From Cockle Creek at the end of the Huon Highway, the southernmost road in Australia, it is an approximately two-hour drive back to Hobart. There are also some shorter walks that enter the edges of the wilderness from the road access points.
Alternatively an aircraft drop-off and/or pick-up at Melaleuca can be arranged, although air travel into the area is highly dependent upon the rapidly changeable weather.
Light aircraft
A light aircraft is an aircraft that has a Maximum Takeoff Weight, maximum gross takeoff weight of or less.Crane, Dale: ''Dictionary of Aeronautical Terms, third edition'', page 308. Aviation Supplies & Academics, 1997.
Light aircraft are use ...
fly on regular tourist flights from
Cambridge Aerodrome
Cambridge Aerodrome , also known as Cambridge Airport, is a minor airport located in Cambridge, Tasmania, Cambridge, a suburb of Hobart, Tasmania, Australia. It is located only a few kilometres from the primary airport, Hobart Airport.
Cambri ...
near
Hobart
Hobart ( ) is the capital and most populous city of the island state of Tasmania, Australia. Located in Tasmania's south-east on the estuary of the River Derwent, it is the southernmost capital city in Australia. Despite containing nearly hal ...
and offer a way to view the South West Wilderness. Flights take about 45 minutes each way.
The only other possible access to the wilderness is by boat. There are no regular tourist operations to the area by sea, though a water trip can be coordinated through the tourist flight operator, as well as it offering overnight accommodation in a standing camp. At least one
sea kayak
A sea kayak or touring kayak is a kayak used for the sport of Watercraft paddling, paddling on open waters of lakes, bays, and oceans. Sea kayaks are seaworthy small boats with a covered deck and the ability to incorporate a spray deck. They t ...
touring outfitter leads extended wilderness tours of Bathurst Harbour, using
folding kayak
A folding kayak is a direct descendant of the original Inuit kayak made of animal skins stretched over frames made from wood and bones. A modern folder has a collapsible frame made of some combination of wood, aluminium and plastic, and a skin m ...
s and departing from Melaleuca.
The area is subject to snow, ice, strong winds, heavy fog and cloud cover at any time of year, but especially in the mid-year months, which means any trip into the wilderness should be taken with caution. Rainfall can be up to per year, and the superb views are regularly obscured by low level cloud. This variable and potentially dangerous weather occurs because the wilderness fronts the wild
Southern Ocean
The Southern Ocean, also known as the Antarctic Ocean, comprises the southernmost waters of the world ocean, generally taken to be south of 60th parallel south, 60° S latitude and encircling Antarctica. With a size of , it is the seco ...
, where the next landfall is Antarctica to the south and South America to the west.
References
Further reading
* Gee, H and Fenton, J. (Eds) (1978)
The South West Book
''The South West Book – A Tasmanian Wilderness'' is a book published by the Australian Conservation Foundation in 1978 during concern following the damming of Lake Pedder in Tasmania.
It was edited by Helen Gee and Janet Fenton with assista ...
- A Tasmanian Wilderness'' Melbourne, Australian Conservation Foundation.
* Neilson, D. (1975) ''South West Tasmania - A land of the Wild''. Adelaide. Rigby.
*
Melaleuca
''Melaleuca'' () is a genus of nearly 300 species of plants in the myrtle family, Myrtaceae, commonly known as paperbarks, honey-myrtles, bottlebrushes or tea-trees (although the last name is also applied to species of '' Leptospermum''). They ...
External links
Parks and Wildlife Service, Tasmania - Southwest National Park*
ttp://www.environment.gov.au/heritage/worldheritage/sites/tasmania/index.html World Heritage site information about South WestWorld Heritage: Criteria- an audio visual tribute to Deny King produced by the Launceston Walking Club in 2002 (YouTube video in two parts)
{{coord missing, Tasmania
South West Tasmania
Wilderness areas of Tasmania