
In
oceanography, sea state is the general condition of the
free surface on a large body of water—with respect to
wind waves and
swell—at a certain location and moment. A sea state is characterized by
statistic
A statistic (singular) or sample statistic is any quantity computed from values in a sample which is considered for a statistical purpose. Statistical purposes include estimating a population parameter, describing a sample, or evaluating a hy ...
s, including the
wave height
In fluid dynamics, the wave height of a ocean surface wave, surface wave is the difference between the elevations of a crest (physics), crest and a neighboring trough (physics), trough. ''Wave height'' is a term used by sailor, mariners, as well ...
,
period, and
spectrum
A spectrum (plural ''spectra'' or ''spectrums'') is a condition that is not limited to a specific set of values but can vary, without gaps, across a continuum. The word was first used scientifically in optics to describe the rainbow of color ...
. The sea state varies with time, as the wind and swell conditions change. The sea state can be assessed either by an experienced observer (like a trained mariner) or by using instruments like
weather buoys,
wave radar or
remote sensing
Remote sensing is the acquisition of information about an object or phenomenon without making physical contact with the object, in contrast to in situ or on-site observation. The term is applied especially to acquiring information about Ear ...
satellite
A satellite or artificial satellite is an object intentionally placed into orbit in outer space. Except for passive satellites, most satellites have an electricity generation system for equipment on board, such as solar panels or radioiso ...
s.
In the case of buoy measurements, the statistics are determined for a time interval in which the sea state can be considered to be constant. This duration has to be much longer than the individual wave period, but shorter than the period in which the wind and swell conditions can be expected to vary significantly. Typically, records of one hundred to one thousand wave periods are used to determine the wave statistics.
The large number of variables involved in creating and describing the sea state cannot be quickly and easily summarized, so simpler scales are used to give an approximate but concise description of conditions for reporting in a ship's log or similar record.
WMO sea state code

The World Meteorological Organization (WMO) sea state code largely adopts the 'wind sea' definition of the
Douglas Sea Scale.
:The direction from which the swell is coming should be recorded.
Sea states in marine engineering
In engineering applications, sea states are often characterized by the following two parameters:
* The ''
significant wave height'' ''H''
1/3 — the mean
wave height
In fluid dynamics, the wave height of a ocean surface wave, surface wave is the difference between the elevations of a crest (physics), crest and a neighboring trough (physics), trough. ''Wave height'' is a term used by sailor, mariners, as well ...
of the one third highest waves.
* The mean ''
wave period'', ''T''
1.
In addition to the short-term wave statistics presented above, long-term sea state statistics are often given as a joint frequency table of the significant wave height and the mean wave period. From the long and short-term statistical distributions, it is possible to find the extreme values expected in the operating life of a ship. A ship designer can find the most extreme sea states (extreme values of H
1/3 and T
1) from the joint frequency table, and from the wave spectrum, the designer can find the most likely highest wave elevation in the most extreme sea states and predict the most likely highest loads on individual parts of the ship from the
response amplitude operators of the ship. Surviving the once in 100 years or once in 1000 years sea state is a normal demand for design of ships and offshore structures.
See also
*
Beaufort scale
*
Cross sea
*
Douglas sea scale
Footnotes
References
*
*
{{Authority control
Oceanography
Meteorological phenomena
Marine meteorology