Pawnee is a
ghost town
A ghost town, deserted city, extinct town, or abandoned city is an abandoned settlement, usually one that contains substantial visible remaining buildings and infrastructure such as roads. A town often becomes a ghost town because the economi ...
in
Geary County, Kansas, United States,
which briefly served as the first official
capital
Capital and its variations may refer to:
Common uses
* Capital city, a municipality of primary status
** Capital region, a metropolitan region containing the capital
** List of national capitals
* Capital letter, an upper-case letter
Econom ...
of the
Kansas Territory
The Territory of Kansas was an organized incorporated territory of the United States that existed from May 30, 1854, until January 29, 1861, when the eastern portion of the territory was admitted to the United States, Union as the Slave and ...
in 1855. Pawnee was the territorial capital for exactly five days – the legislature met there from July 2 to July 6 – before legislators voted to move the capital to
Shawnee Mission, which is located in present-day
Fairway. It may be the shortest-lived capital of any U.S. state or territory (
Colorado City also served as the capital of the newly established
Colorado Territory
The Territory of Colorado was an organized incorporated territory of the United States that existed from February 28, 1861, until August 1, 1876, when it was admitted to the Union as the 38th State of Colorado.
The territory was organized ...
for five days in 1862 but was not federally recognized).
History
Early history
For many
millennia
A millennium () is a period of one thousand years, one hundred decades, or ten centuries, sometimes called a kiloannum (ka), or kiloyear (ky). Normally, the word is used specifically for periods of a thousand years that begin at the starting p ...
, the
Great Plains
The Great Plains is a broad expanse of plain, flatland in North America. The region stretches east of the Rocky Mountains, much of it covered in prairie, steppe, and grassland. They are the western part of the Interior Plains, which include th ...
of
North America
North America is a continent in the Northern Hemisphere, Northern and Western Hemisphere, Western hemispheres. North America is bordered to the north by the Arctic Ocean, to the east by the Atlantic Ocean, to the southeast by South Ameri ...
was inhabited by
nomadic
Nomads are communities without fixed habitation who regularly move to and from areas. Such groups include hunter-gatherers, pastoral nomads (owning livestock), tinkers and trader nomads. In the twentieth century, the population of nomadic pa ...
Native Americans. From the 16th century to 18th century, the
Kingdom of France
The Kingdom of France is the historiographical name or umbrella term given to various political entities of France in the Middle Ages, medieval and Early modern France, early modern period. It was one of the most powerful states in Europe from th ...
claimed ownership of large parts of
North America
North America is a continent in the Northern Hemisphere, Northern and Western Hemisphere, Western hemispheres. North America is bordered to the north by the Arctic Ocean, to the east by the Atlantic Ocean, to the southeast by South Ameri ...
. In 1762, after the
French and Indian War
The French and Indian War, 1754 to 1763, was a colonial conflict in North America between Kingdom of Great Britain, Great Britain and Kingdom of France, France, along with their respective Native Americans in the United States, Native American ...
, France secretly ceded
New France
New France (, ) was the territory colonized by Kingdom of France, France in North America, beginning with the exploration of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence by Jacques Cartier in 1534 and ending with the cession of New France to Kingdom of Great Br ...
to
Spain
Spain, or the Kingdom of Spain, is a country in Southern Europe, Southern and Western Europe with territories in North Africa. Featuring the Punta de Tarifa, southernmost point of continental Europe, it is the largest country in Southern Eur ...
, per the
Treaty of Fontainebleau. In 1802, Spain returned most of the land to France. In 1803, most of the land for
modern day Kansas was acquired by the United States from France as part of the 828,000 square mile
Louisiana Purchase
The Louisiana Purchase () was the acquisition of the Louisiana (New France), territory of Louisiana by the United States from the French First Republic in 1803. This consisted of most of the land in the Mississippi River#Watershed, Mississipp ...
for 2.83
cents per
acre
The acre ( ) is a Unit of measurement, unit of land area used in the Imperial units, British imperial and the United States customary units#Area, United States customary systems. It is traditionally defined as the area of one Chain (unit), ch ...
. In 1854, the
Kansas Territory
The Territory of Kansas was an organized incorporated territory of the United States that existed from May 30, 1854, until January 29, 1861, when the eastern portion of the territory was admitted to the United States, Union as the Slave and ...
was organized.
Establishing the town
Pawnee, named after a native tribe that had inhabited its land, was located on the far western frontier of Kansas Territory, between the new settlement of
Manhattan
Manhattan ( ) is the most densely populated and geographically smallest of the Boroughs of New York City, five boroughs of New York City. Coextensive with New York County, Manhattan is the County statistics of the United States#Smallest, larg ...
and the
U.S. Army post at
Fort Riley
Fort Riley is a United States Army installation located in North Central Kansas, on the Kansas River, also known as the Kaw, between Junction City and Manhattan. The Fort Riley Military Reservation covers 101,733 acres (41,170 ha) in Ge ...
. Pawnee was first laid out in 1854. Fort Riley's commander, Colonel William R. Montgomery, authorized the acquisition by the Pawnee Town Association investors of 400 acres believed to be part of the
military reservation. In December 1854 or January 1855, the site was selected as capital by recently-commissioned first
Territorial Governor Andrew Reeder, after his delayed arrival from
Pennsylvania
Pennsylvania, officially the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, is a U.S. state, state spanning the Mid-Atlantic (United States), Mid-Atlantic, Northeastern United States, Northeastern, Appalachian, and Great Lakes region, Great Lakes regions o ...
. Governor Reeder had an economic stake in the site, since he was one of the investors and a new landowner in the settlement, and he was not disappointed: Within six weeks of his announcement, hundreds of people arrived in the town. It quickly sprouted new homes, stores, and hotels, and he soon built a two-story log cabin there that became known as the "Governor's Mansion".
Electing the Territorial Legislature
The Governor had failed to take an accurate territorial
census
A census (from Latin ''censere'', 'to assess') is the procedure of systematically acquiring, recording, and calculating population information about the members of a given Statistical population, population, usually displayed in the form of stati ...
before the first election of representatives to help ensure valid results. The February 1855 census showed 36 residents in Pawnee, but 75 votes were cast there in the March 30
election
An election is a formal group decision-making process whereby a population chooses an individual or multiple individuals to hold Public administration, public office.
Elections have been the usual mechanism by which modern representative d ...
, held at the home of
Robert Klotz. The number reflected
emigrant
Emigration is the act of leaving a resident country or place of residence with the intent to settle elsewhere (to permanently leave a country). Conversely, immigration describes the movement of people into one country from another (to permanentl ...
s who had arrived within that month, and election returns indicated no ''illegal'' voters at Pawnee. The same, however, could not be said at polling places throughout much of the rest of the territory, as more than 800 illegal votes were identified in both
Lawrence and
Leavenworth and more than 4,000 territory-wide.
Free-state interests had been bolstered by the arrival of new settlers from New England who were aided by the
Emigrant Aid Company. But many free-staters felt that Reeder had intentionally delayed the spring election until pro-slavery men from neighboring
Missouri
Missouri (''see #Etymology and pronunciation, pronunciation'') is a U.S. state, state in the Midwestern United States, Midwestern region of the United States. Ranking List of U.S. states and territories by area, 21st in land area, it border ...
could arrive and cast votes they should not have been allowed. Missouri residents overran the polling places and threatened legitimate voters who were residents or planned to be such. Ultimately, only eight of the 39 men elected had free-state intentions.
One week of action
The Territorial Legislature first met in Pawnee on July 2, 1855, composed mostly of the pro-slavery delegates fraudulently elected. They were unhappy that Governor Reeder had put the capital over 100 miles from the Missouri border, feeling that the location favored the free-state advocates in Kansas Territory. What the legislators feared was precisely Reeder's intention, as he believed a free Kansas favored his personal land interests throughout the territory.
Undiscouraged, the pro-slavery legislators' first action was to unseat all but one of the free-state men, and one who lost his position exclaimed that they were, "lighting the watchfires of war". The only free-state legislator who remained, Martin Conway, appeared also to be at odds with Reeder, standing during the Governor's opening address to denounce the body and proclaim that he was prepared to dishonor any of its laws. Despite the Governor and Conway, another quick action the legislators took was a successful vote to move the capital to
Shawnee Mission, on the Missouri border. Governor Reeder
veto
A veto is a legal power to unilaterally stop an official action. In the most typical case, a president (government title), president or monarch vetoes a bill (law), bill to stop it from becoming statutory law, law. In many countries, veto powe ...
ed the measure, recalling the expense the town of Pawnee had already taken to build the capital city. The Territorial Legislature overrode his veto, and next met in Shawnee on July 16. Nevertheless, Reeder continued to insist Pawnee was the capital, vetoing any legislation that reached him, believing that the lawmakers were not in legal session.
Because of its unscrupulous origin and actions, the group became known as the Bogus Legislature. The pro-slavery men had never intended to reside in Pawnee, ignoring the nearby boarding houses available and arriving prepared to camp outside. After the vote to relocate, the Kansas Legislature never stayed in Pawnee againJuly 6, 1855 was its last day as capital cityit served only five days.
Destruction
Soon after Pawnee lost its function as capital, in September 1855,
Jefferson Davis
Jefferson F. Davis (June 3, 1808December 6, 1889) was an American politician who served as the only President of the Confederate States of America, president of the Confederate States from 1861 to 1865. He represented Mississippi in the Unite ...
, the
Secretary of War
The secretary of war was a member of the U.S. president's Cabinet, beginning with George Washington's administration. A similar position, called either "Secretary at War" or "Secretary of War", had been appointed to serve the Congress of the ...
, surveyed the settlement and showed the results to
U.S. President
The president of the United States (POTUS) is the head of state and head of government of the United States. The president directs the Federal government of the United States#Executive branch, executive branch of the Federal government of t ...
Franklin Pierce
Franklin Pierce (November 23, 1804October 8, 1869) was the 14th president of the United States, serving from 1853 to 1857. A northern Democratic Party (United States), Democrat who believed that the Abolitionism in the United States, abolitio ...
. On the resulting map, the survey indicated the eastern boundary of Fort Riley both with and without Pawnee, and the lines excluding the town were accepted. It was ordered to be destroyed and its land reincorporated back into Fort Riley. Notices signed by Pierce were posted on every structure instructing everyone to leave by October 10. A Major Cook with 1,000 of his
Texas
Texas ( , ; or ) is the most populous U.S. state, state in the South Central United States, South Central region of the United States. It borders Louisiana to the east, Arkansas to the northeast, Oklahoma to the north, New Mexico to the we ...
troops were charged with evacuating the residents, many of whom were unwilling to leave. By the night of the 10th, some residents still remained. The Governor's Mansion, abandoned by its first tenant who unhappily left for Shawnee, was pulled down with its next residents still inside. In another home, a woman with her infant was carried out on a mattress and taken across the border line of the reservation. Most of the buildings, including all of its houses, were demolished, meaning financial ruin for many families. Other Kansas towns developed under similar circumstances but lacking significant free-state aspirants did not suffer the same fate.
Pawnee later and today
Many residents left town with the legislators immediately after their adjournment on July 6. Those who did not were faced with a
cholera
Cholera () is an infection of the small intestine by some Strain (biology), strains of the Bacteria, bacterium ''Vibrio cholerae''. Symptoms may range from none, to mild, to severe. The classic symptom is large amounts of watery diarrhea last ...
outbreak
In epidemiology, an outbreak is a sudden increase in occurrences of a disease when cases are in excess of normal expectancy for the location or season. It may affect a small and localized group or impact upon thousands of people across an entire ...
in August. Fort Riley was also affected.
Union Pacific Railroad
The Union Pacific Railroad is a Railroad classes, Class I freight-hauling railroad that operates 8,300 locomotives over routes in 23 U.S. states west of Chicago and New Orleans. Union Pacific is the second largest railroad in the United Stat ...
lines reached the abandoned town in 1866 – as part of a transcontinental route approved by the Pawnee legislature – passing just yards away from the north side of the capitol. Its passage through Pawnee was due in part to the unreliability of the nearby river for navigation.
First Territorial Capitol State Historic Site

Davis had determined most of the town to be within the boundaries of Fort Riley; its eastern edge at the mouth of Onemile Creek. Only the capitol building was spared from demolition. During its brief service by the legislature, it was a very uncomfortable meeting space due partly to the fact that it was not complete. The floor boards were not nailed down, and a hole in the exterior wall left for construction purposes still remained at the second floor.
After the legislature departed, townspeople entered the building and found, according to one of them, "...a room full of confusion and disorder. Torn pamphlets, scraps of papers, and rubbish of all descriptions were scattered about." The awkward edifice was used shortly afterward as a warehouse.
The structure, now listed on the
National Register of Historic Places
The National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) is the Federal government of the United States, United States federal government's official United States National Register of Historic Places listings, list of sites, buildings, structures, Hist ...
, is within the current boundary of the military reservation, and has since served a variety of other uses. It has also functioned as a church, a bachelor's club, housing and a carpentry shop. In the 1920s the
Kansas Historical Society
The Kansas Historical Society is the official state historical society of Kansas.
Headquartered in Topeka, it operates as "the trustee of the state" for the purpose of maintaining the state's history and operates the Kansas Museum of Histor ...
and Union Pacific took over responsibility for the building and repaired it. It was rededicated in 1928 with a grand celebration and became a history museum. In 1961, the state legislature met in the Pawnee capitol again, for one day, during
statehood centennial
A centennial, or centenary in British English, is a 100th anniversary or otherwise relates to a century.
Notable events
Notable centennial events at a national or world-level include:
* Centennial Exhibition, 1876, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. ...
celebrations.
Today the museum features exhibits on Kansas Territory, rail and river travel in the region, and the history of Pawnee. Because it is now part of a military installation, arrangements must be made in advance for the general public to visit the museum. A driving tour of the base is available, featuring several historic sites, including the First Territorial Capitol.
See also
*
Pawnee people
The Pawnee, also known by their endonym (which translates to "Men of Men"), are an Plains Indians, Indigenous people of the Great Plains that historically lived in Nebraska and northern Kansas but today are based in Oklahoma. They are the federa ...
– The tribe behind the name
*
Bleeding Kansas
Bleeding Kansas, Bloody Kansas, or the Border War, was a series of violent civil confrontations in Kansas Territory, and to a lesser extent in western Missouri, between 1854 and 1859. It emerged from a political and ideological debate over the ...
– Details of the ongoing conflict
*
Kansas–Nebraska Act
The Kansas–Nebraska Act of 1854 () was a territorial organic act that created the territories of Kansas and Nebraska. It was drafted by Democratic Senator Stephen A. Douglas, passed by the 33rd United States Congress, and signed into law b ...
– The federal bill that created the problems
*
Capitals of the United States – Historic locations, including of the territories
*
Geographic center of the contiguous United States
The geographic center of the United States is a point approximately north of Belle Fourche, South Dakota at . It has been regarded as such by the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey and the U.S. National Geodetic Survey (NGS) since the a ...
– A more commonly accepted location (near
Lebanon, Kansas
Lebanon is a city in Smith County, Kansas, United States. As of the 2020 census, the population of the city was 178.
History
Lebanon was founded in 1876 at a site about distant from its present site. It was moved to the new site in about 1 ...
) of the midpoint of the adjoining 48 states, marked, perhaps mistakenly, on the
1909 Jefferson Township plat map. It is identified on this map as "Geological Center of the United States".
Notes
References
Citations
Bibliography
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
* ''
Lawrence Journal-World
The ''Lawrence Journal-World'' is a daily newspaper published in Lawrence, Kansas, United States, by Ogden Newspapers.
History
Though the ''Journal-World'' title came into existence in 1911, the paper dates itself to 1858, according to the ...
'',
* ''New York Times'',
*
*
*
U.S. Army,
*
*
Further reading
External links
First Territorial Capitol State Historic Site– archived Historical Society website for the capitol
Packed Houses– archived Historical Society article about Pawnee
– more about the first legislature, with names and stories on its members
– Early history of Davis County and Pawnee
* Geary County maps
CurrentHistoric KDOT
{{Authority control
Ghost towns in Kansas
Former populated places in Geary County, Kansas
Pre-statehood history of Kansas
Former colonial and territorial capitals in the United States
Capitals of Kansas