Nazaré Canyon
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The Nazaré Canyon is a
submarine canyon A submarine canyon is a steep-sided valley cut into the seabed of the continental slope, sometimes extending well onto the continental shelf, having nearly vertical walls, and occasionally having canyon wall heights of up to , from canyon flo ...
just off the coast of Nazaré, portuguese Oeste region, in the eastern
North Atlantic Ocean The Atlantic Ocean is the second largest of the world's five oceanic divisions, with an area of about . It covers approximately 17% of Earth's surface and about 24% of its water surface area. During the Age of Discovery, it was known for se ...
. It is the largest submarine canyon in Europe, reaching depths of about deep and a length of about . The canyon is being studied as part of the EU HERMES project using a
remotely operated vehicle A remotely operated underwater vehicle (ROUV) or remotely operated vehicle (ROV) is a free-swimming submersible craft used to perform underwater observation, inspection and physical tasks such as valve operations, hydraulic functions and other g ...
. The project is investigating the specialized canyon
ecosystem An ecosystem (or ecological system) is a system formed by Organism, organisms in interaction with their Biophysical environment, environment. The Biotic material, biotic and abiotic components are linked together through nutrient cycles and en ...
s,
sediment transport Sediment transport is the movement of solid particles (sediment), typically due to a combination of gravity acting on the sediment, and the movement of the fluid in which the sediment is entrained. Sediment transport occurs in natural systems wh ...
and deposition, and the way in which the canyon influences and is affected by local
ocean circulation An ocean current is a continuous, directed movement of seawater generated by a number of forces acting upon the water, including wind, the Coriolis effect, breaking waves, cabbeling, and temperature and salinity differences. Depth contours, ...
.


Sections

The canyon can be divided into three distinct sections. The upper section extends from about off Nazaré to the edge of the continental shelf (up to ); it is composed of ravines and has a distinct V-shaped profile. The middle section of the canyon, defined by a tear in the long
continental slope A continental margin is the outer edge of continental crust abutting oceanic crust under coastal waters. It is one of the three major zones of the ocean floor, the other two being deep-ocean basins and mid-ocean ridges. The continental margi ...
, extends from the edge of the platform to a depth of . In this section, the canyon retains a V shape and is highly sinuous, with large ravines on the walls bordering the deepest part that defines the canyon's axis (called the
thalweg In geography, hydrography, and fluvial geomorphology, a thalweg or talweg () is the line or curve of lowest elevation within a valley or watercourse. Normally only the horizontal position of the curve is considered (as viewed on a map); the c ...
). The bottom section is the deepest end of the canyon, with depths greater than , and extends for about . In this section, the thalweg loses the sharp characteristics of the shallower sections, shifting from a V-shaped profile to a flat, slightly sinuous floor. At a depth of , from the headland, the canyon reaches the Iberian Abyssal Plain.


Dynamics

The Nazaré Canyon functions as a ripple polarizer. Waves are able to travel at a much greater speed due to the geological fault, arriving at the coast with virtually no dissipation of energy. Praia do Norte consistently presents waves significantly larger than the rest of the Portuguese coast due to the canyon. The predominant northern currents function as sedimentary ducts, along which there is an intensification of the particle transport processes between the coastal zone and the deep sea domain, making the transport of particulate matter (sediments) throughout the entire canyon very efficient. This underwater gorge causes major changes in the level of coastal sedimentary traffic, acting as a sink for sediments from the north, from coastal drift; this also explains the absence of large stretches of sand on the beaches south of Nazaré. The importance and interest in the natural phenomenon led the Portuguese Hydrographic Institute (IH), in collaboration with the Municipality of Nazaré, to install an exhibition that illustrates the knowledge acquired from the research carried out in the area. The Nazaré Canyon Interpretive Center, installed in one of the fort's rooms, houses informational posters, a three-dimensional model of the underwater valley and images and information about the German submarine U-963, which sank in Nazaré's waters at the end of World War II.


Surfing

One of the most distinct features of this canyon is the high breaking waves it forms. This makes Nazaré, specifically Praia do Norte, a hotspot for
big wave surfing Big wave surfing is a discipline within surfing in which surfers paddle into, or are towed into, waves that are at least 20 feet (6.2 m) high, on surf boards known as "guns" or towboards. The size of the board needed to successfully surf these w ...
. In November 2011, Hawaiian surfer Garrett McNamara surfed a record breaking giant wave: from
trough Trough may refer to: In science * Trough (geology), a long depression less steep than a trench * Trough (meteorology), an elongated region of low atmospheric pressure * Trough (physics), the lowest point on a wave * Trough level (medicine), the l ...
to crest, at Praia do Norte,
Nazaré, Portugal Nazaré () is a Portugal, Portuguese town and municipality located in the Oeste Subregion, Oeste region, in the historical province of Estremadura Province (1936-1976), Estremadura, and in the Leiria District. The municipality has a population of 1 ...
. In January 2013, it was reported he successfully rode a wave measuring an estimated at the same location, possibly exceeding the size of his previous record-breaking wave. In January 2018, Hugo Vau might have smashed a
world record A world record is usually the best global and most important performance that is ever recorded and officially verified in a specific skill, sport, or other kind of activity. The book ''Guinness World Records'' and other world records organizatio ...
amid claims he surfed one of the biggest waves ever seen at Nazaré, Portugal. The wave — nicknamed ‘Big Mama’ — was reported to be up to 35 metres high, which, if confirmed, would beat current
Guinness Book of Records ''Guinness World Records'', known from its inception in 1955 until 1999 as ''The Guinness Book of Records'' and in previous United States editions as ''The Guinness Book of World Records'', is a British reference book published annually, listi ...
holder Garrett McNamara. Brazilian surfer Rodrigo Koxa has officially broken the world record for the world's biggest wave ever to have been surfed, with his incredible run at Nazare beach in Portugal being recognized as a Guinness World Record. In May 2018, the World Surf League confirmed this achievement at its Big Wave Awards in Santa Monica, California, with the official height of the wave registered at . On February 11, 2020, at Praia do Norte in Nazaré, Portugal, Maya Gabeira broke the record for the biggest wave ever surfed by a woman on a record-setting wave measuring , besting her own previous world record of 68 feet. The 73.5-foot wave she surfed on February 11 in Nazaré was the largest wave surfed by anyone that year, earning Gabeira the WSL's 2020 women's XXL Biggest Wave Award. By contrast, that year's men's XXL Biggest Wave Award winner, Kai Lenny, rode a 70-foot wave.


See also

*
Nazaré, Portugal Nazaré () is a Portugal, Portuguese town and municipality located in the Oeste Subregion, Oeste region, in the historical province of Estremadura Province (1936-1976), Estremadura, and in the Leiria District. The municipality has a population of 1 ...
* Praia do Norte (Nazaré)


References



BBC - Garrett McNamara surfs 'highest ever' wave off Portugal.
Robot sub explores giant canyon
Shukman, David, (2007, June 19). In BBC News Online. Retrieved 02:02, June 20, 2007, from
Physical processes in the Nazare Canyon area and related sedimentary impacts
Vitorino, J., A. Oliveira and J. Beja, Geophysical Research Abstracts, Vol. 7, 10187, 2005 SRef-ID: 1607-7962/gra/EGU05-A-10187


External links


EU HERMES
{{DEFAULTSORT:Nazare Canyon Landforms of the Atlantic Ocean Submarine canyons of the Atlantic Ocean