Léo Marciano
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Léo Marciano Paris is a French
luxury Luxury may refer to: *Luxury goods, an economic good or service for which demand increases more than proportionally as income rises *Luxury tax, a tax on products not considered essential, such as speedboats or diamonds. **Luxury tax (sports), a ...
fashion house founded in 1966 by the eponymous designer Léo Marciano. The house designed and retailed
ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear (RTW)also called ''prêt-à-porter'', or off-the-rack or off-the-peg in casual useis the term for garments sold in finished condition in standardized sizes, as distinct from made-to-measure or bespoke clothing tailored to a partic ...
and
couture Couture may refer to: People * Couture (surname) Places Belgium * Couture-Saint-Germain, a village in the municipality of Lasne, Belgium Canada * Couture crater and Lac Couture, an impact crater and the lake that covers it in Quebec, Canada ...
as well as leather goods, footwear and
fashion accessories In fashion, an accessory is an item used to contribute, in a secondary manner, to an individual's outfit. Accessories are often chosen to complete an outfit and complement the wearer's look. They have the capacity to further express an individua ...
. While the Léo Marciano label is predominantly known for its womenswear, the company also ran a menswear line. The house had a notable following in France and Japan and was internationally distributed through its portfolio of retail stores.


History

The brand was founded by
Algeria Algeria, officially the People's Democratic Republic of Algeria, is a country in the Maghreb region of North Africa. It is bordered to Algeria–Tunisia border, the northeast by Tunisia; to Algeria–Libya border, the east by Libya; to Alger ...
n-born French
couturier (; ; French for 'high sewing', 'high dressmaking') is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design. The term ''haute couture'' generally refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 1 ...
Léo Marciano in 1966. Trained in industrial design, Léo Marciano began a teaching career in drawing before shifting his direction towards garment design and opening his eponymous fashion house. Beginning with the creation of feminine silhouettes, notably dresses and blouses, his first pieces saw success among Paris’ boutiques and abroad. The press developed an increased interest in his creations as they became more elaborate and began to constitute collections of coordinates in Italian silks and exclusive prints, fine wools and English tweeds and flannels. The French weekly " Jours de France" contributed to his success when it published his work. By 1972, the company had significantly grown, and orders were coming from all over the world. Rather than outsourcing to factories, Léo Marciano decided to build his own production
atelier An atelier () is the private workshop or studio of a professional artist in the fine or decorative arts or an architect, where a principal master and a number of assistants, students, and apprentices can work together producing fine art or vi ...
to fulfil orders and control the quality of his product line. In this atelier of over one hundred employees, he created a research space, using machinery to service a manufacturing. Léo Marciano was granted the "
Couture Couture may refer to: People * Couture (surname) Places Belgium * Couture-Saint-Germain, a village in the municipality of Lasne, Belgium Canada * Couture crater and Lac Couture, an impact crater and the lake that covers it in Quebec, Canada ...
" label by the French Ministry of Industry and Commerce, and became established in the luxury market. In the following years, the luxury brand expanded and saw the opening of freestanding Léo Marciano boutiques at some of the most prestigious addresses in Paris, including
rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré The Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré () is a street located in the 8th arrondissement of Paris, France. Relatively narrow and nondescript, especially in comparison to the nearby Champs-Élysées, Avenue des Champs-Élysées, it is cited as being on ...
, rue Cambon, and rue François 1er. The label moved beyond its French borders as stand-alone stores and concessions opened internationally. In Paris, Léo Marciano became the couturier of choice of women in politics; abroad, he dressed women in power notably
Margaret Thatcher Margaret Hilda Thatcher, Baroness Thatcher (; 13 October 19258 April 2013), was a British stateswoman who served as Prime Minister of the United Kingdom from 1979 to 1990 and Leader of the Conservative Party (UK), Leader of th ...
and Empress
Farah Diba Farah Pahlavi (; []; born 14 October 1938) is the former Queen and last Empress () of Pahlavi Iran and is the third wife and widow of the last List of monarchs of Iran, Shah of Iran, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi. She was born into a prosperous Ira ...
, as well as Princess Caroline de Monaco and a number of actresses such as the star of
Orfeu Negro ''Black Orpheus'' ( Portuguese: ''Orfeu Negro'' ) is a 1959 romantic tragedy film directed by French filmmaker Marcel Camus and starring Marpessa Dawn and Breno Mello. It is based on the play '' Orfeu da Conceição'' by Vinicius de Moraes, ...
,
Marpessa Dawn Marpessa Dawn (January 3, 1934 – August 25, 2008), also known as Gypsy Marpessa Dawn Menor, was an American-French actress, as well as a singer and dancer. She is best remembered for her role in the film ''Black Orpheus'' (1959) by Marcel Cam ...
and
Anny Duperey Anny Duperey (; born Annie Legras; 28 June 1947) is a French actress, published photographer and best-selling author with a career spanning almost six decades as of 2021 and more than eighty cinema or television credits, around thirty theatre ...
. He collaborated with renowned photographers such as
Guy Bourdin Guy Bourdin (2 December 1928 – 29 March 1991), was a French artist and fashion photographer known for his highly stylized and provocative images. From 1955, Bourdin worked mostly with ''Vogue'' as well as other publications including ''Harper's ...
, Peter Knapp,
Sam Levin Samuel Henry Levin is an American singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist. Life and career Sam writes the music and lyrics for all of her songs and is a multi-instrumentalist. Sam has performed on many stages; from her first Open Mic wh ...
, and Jean-Loup Sieff for the creation of the label’s look books and ad campaigns.


Japan

The Léo Marciano brand was established in Japan with the help of French multinational Péchiney Ugine Kuhlmann (PUK), which offered the brand the support needed to successfully develop commercial activities in Tokyo. In 1978, thirty-five boutiques opened throughout the country. Léo Marciano was the first European couturier to do business directly with Japan without having to go through the local intermediaries that controlled imports at the time. In Japan, he had the opportunity to work on the development and innovation of new materials. Commissioned by the Japanese multinational
Toray is a multinational corporation headquartered in Japan that specializes in industrial products centered on technologies in organic synthetic chemistry, polymer chemistry, and biochemistry. Its founding business areas were fibers and textiles, ...
, he collaborated on the development of a new material –
alcantara Alcantara, Alcântara ( Portuguese), Alcántara (Spanish), Alcàntara, Alcàntera, El-Qantarah and (El) Kantara are all transliterations of the Arabic word ''al-qantara'' (القنطرة), meaning "the bridge". Alcantara may refer to: People * ...
– which he proceeded to use in his collections. Today, this material is world renowned and used in fashion, interior design, and even the automotive industry."Les Grandes Réussites: Léo Marciano Couturier," Jours de France No 1207 – January 28 to February 3, 1978, p.24


Menswear

In 1982, Léo Marciano launched a menswear line. The collection was introduced in its womenswear stores, which began to carry both lines. The interest grew rapidly and a Léo Marciano stand alone menswear shop opened on rue Francois 1er. The menswear line was produced by Italian tailoring company Brioni. The menswear boutique went even further by offering a made to measure tailoring service.


End of activities

In 1985, Léo Marciano ceased his activities for health reasons and closed the doors of the prosperous fashion house.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Leo Marciano Paris French companies established in 1966 Clothing companies of France Fashion accessory brands French brands Haute couture High fashion brands French fashion designers